East London Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. East London 121 routes in Area

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -32.673288, 28.037995

1.1. Abbot's Buttress 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -32.964540, 27.912982

description

Not the best

1.2. Morgans Bay 91 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4

1 1st Headland 2 2nd & 3rd Headland 3 4th Headland 4 5th Headland

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -32.718476, 28.326097

summary

Seaside Trad Climbing on Dolerite rock.

description

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

access issues

This is district council land under the control of Nature Conservation. Unrestricted access.

ethic

The bolts on the sport lines are old & dangerous. The semi-tropical sea environment at Morgans is ultra harsh on fixed stainless steel hardware. Skip these sport lines. Don't visit Morgans to climb sport. Morgans is essentially a trad area.

1.2.1. 1st Headland 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.713042, 28.336285

1.2.1.1. Bay Watch 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.1.2. Angels Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.1.3. Prometheus 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.1.4. Lust or Love 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.1.5. California Dreaming 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.1.6. Promised Land 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.1.7. MI5 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.1.8. Cassinga 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2. 2nd & 3rd Headland 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.714400, 28.333582

1.2.2.1. Afghanistan 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2.2. Kindergarten 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2.3. Memorial Slab 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2.4. Lands End 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.2.5. The Platform 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.2.6. Catfish Cove 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2.7. Castaways 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2.8. Storm Bringer 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.2.9. Bionic Man 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.3. 4th Headland 38 routes in Crag

2

2 Ticket to Ride

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.715613, 28.331452

1.2.3.1. Rock Rabbit Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride 19 routes in Cliff

9 11

9 'Natal' Face 11 Abattoir Pillar

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -32.715424, 28.332012

1.2.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.715325, 28.332026

1.2.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.715593, 28.332013

1.2.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.3.4. House of Cards 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.3.4.1. The Annex 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

the square of rock closest to the car park.

1.2.3.5. Tombstone Gulch 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.3.6. Graveyard 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.3.7. Pineapple Ridge 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.3.8. Buccaneer’s Cove 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4. 5th Headland 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.717192, 28.328564

1.2.4.1. Diffusion 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.2. Eager Beaver 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge 19 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.4.4. Strip Tease 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.5. Sweet Surrender 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.6. Dunkirk 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area 18 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.4.8. Carnival is Over 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.9. Strandlooper Buttress 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.10. Needle Wall 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.11. Whale Bone 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.2.4.12. Khoekoen Ledge 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.13. The Tusk 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.14. Bay of Plenty 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.15. Slippery When Wet 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.16. Made to Fit 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.17. Pivotal Motion 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.18. Booze Cruise 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.19. Just a Breeze 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.20. Smooth Operator 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.21. Outlaw Crag 0 routes in Cliff

1.2.4.22. Black Rock 0 routes in Cliff

1.3. Buffalo River 0 routes in Crag

summary

Short routes on dolorite, mostly trad

description

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

1.4. Lalapanzi 0 routes in Crag

summary

A few bolted routes and a lot of shortish trad.

description

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

access issues

Please phone Howard at 043-8411615 or e mail cheryl@mkulukeihorsetrails.co.za to arrange climbing and keys. There may be a fee to use the crags, if you are not using the accommodation.

where to stay

There is a range of accommodation available at Lalapanzi.

1.5. NSA 0 routes in Crag

summary

NSA is the main rock climbing area in East London.

description

There are 79 routes; 61 bolted routes, 18 trad lines & 10 boulder problems. NSA has flat base & is really close to East London. All the projects are opened now & there is very little scope for new lines.

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

access issues

NSA is on the edge of privately owned land, accessed via municipal land. No restrictions.

1.6. Windmill Hole 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -32.952388, 27.896589

summary

Windmill Hole was the first rock climbing area in East London.

description

12 bolted routes and 13 easy, but run-out trad.

The water below Millennium Wall is said to be 30m deep. The highest water jump is about 25m. There have been a number of rock jumping fatalities. People slipping whilst jumping from the top and jumpers landing on swimmers. Police divers could not find the body of a child drowned in the pool. Be really careful. Always check the depth as rain may wash branches & other debris into the pool.

For more information, please check the following:

https://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/location/windmill-hole-east-london

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

access issues

Municipal land with no access restrictions.

history

In the early days before NSA was discovered & developed this was East London’s main crag. Developed by Derek Marshall, Garvin Jacobs and others.

1.6.1. Blixem Buttress 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.6.2. Millennium Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

1.7. Yellow Sands 0 routes in Crag

description

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

1.8. Pompies Pillar 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -33.030677, 27.855026

summary

Short clean hard dolerite set in thick bush.

description

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

access issues

Unrestricted. Don't walk through any private gardens.

1.9. Bola 0 routes in Crag

description

For more information, please check the following:

http://www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za/

http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Eastern_Cape

https://epmcsa.org.za/

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
11			Frigidaire Chimney	Trad		1.2.1.2. Angels Wall
			Ian	Trad		1.2.1.5. California Dreaming
			Pick Pocket	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
12			Penny Lane	Trad		1.2.1.5. California Dreaming
		★	Acne	Trad		1.2.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
		★	Blue Jay	Trad		1.2.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
13			Roger Rabbit	Trad		1.2.3.1. Rock Rabbit Wall
		★	Genesis	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
			Snark	Trad		1.2.3.5. Tombstone Gulch
			Easy Rider	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
			Gannet's View	Trad 2		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
			Old Man	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
			Jo! Jo! My Bitch!	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
14			Huff and Puff	Trad		1.2.1.5. California Dreaming
		★	My Eye on You	Trad		1.2.2.4. Lands End
			So Long Mary Ann	Trad		1.2.2.4. Lands End
		★	Remember When	Trad		1.2.3.1. Rock Rabbit Wall
		★	Paperback Writer	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
			Short and Sweet	Trad		1.2.3.4.1. The Annex
			Facing The Fallacy	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
15			Do It Twice	Trad		1.1. Abbot's Buttress
			Evangelical Naivety	Trad		1.1. Abbot's Buttress
		★★	California Dreaming	Trad		1.2.1.5. California Dreaming
			Nowhere Man	Trad		1.2.1.5. California Dreaming
		★★	Feels so Good	Trad		1.2.2.5. The Platform
		★	Day Tripper	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
		★	Blackbird	Trad		1.2.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
			Kortbroek	Trad		1.2.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
			Earache	Trad		1.2.3.4.1. The Annex
			Boojum	Trad		1.2.3.5. Tombstone Gulch
			Brave, Brave Mouse	Trad 2		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	Burning Bush	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
			On the Loose Again	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	Mine Shaft	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★★	The Garden Route	Sport 8		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
16			Time Has Come	Trad		1.1. Abbot's Buttress
			Lost Digit	Trad		1.2.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
			Our Lady Direct	Trad		1.2.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
		★★	Blockhead	Trad		1.2.3.4. House of Cards
			Fiddler's Green	Trad 2		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★★	Linear Accelerator	Trad 10m		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	Old Fashioned Book	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
			Moon Shadow	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
			Sweet Surrender	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★★★	Not the Millennium Route	Sport 11		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
			Fame & Smashing	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
			Hall of Fame	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
			Rompie Pompie	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
16 A0		★★	One Step from Earth	Trad		1.2.3.4.1. The Annex
17			Prometheus	Trad 10m		1.2.1.3. Prometheus
		★	Fear of God	Trad		1.2.2.4. Lands End
		★★	Once in a Lifetime	Trad		1.2.2.5. The Platform
		★★	Ticket to Ride	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
			Lovingly Fondled	Trad		1.2.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
			Our Lady of the Abattoir	Trad		1.2.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
		★	Five o' Clock Shark	Trad		1.2.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
		★	Heels of a Soft Prayer Whispered	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
			Razor's Edge	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	Sinus	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
			The Spire	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★★	Braai Vleis Vegter	Sport 10		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
			Crazy Bloody Mary	Sport 9		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
		★★	Procrastibate	Sport 9		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
			Aim & Ablution	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
			Judge Dread	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
			That Damn Dog	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
18		★	Abbot of Abbotsford	Trad		1.1. Abbot's Buttress
		★	Where Angels Fear to Tread	Trad		1.2.1.2. Angels Wall
		★	Keep the Faith	Trad		1.2.2.4. Lands End
		★★	Radio Free Moscow	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
			The Feeling is Tight	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
		★	Catch 22	Trad		1.2.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
		★	G - String	Trad		1.2.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
			John Brown	Trad		1.2.3.3. Blue Jay Buttress
		★★	Crocodile Rock	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★★	Flycatcher	Trad 25m		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
			Haze on the Skyline	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★★	The Carnival is Over	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★	Sea Breeze	Trad		1.2.4.11. Whale Bone
			Pluto	Sport 4		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
			Iron Hand	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
			Pumping the Pomp	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
19			I’m Still Standing	Trad		1.1. Abbot's Buttress
			The Shark Fin	Trad		1.2.1.5. California Dreaming
		★★	On the Edge	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
		★★	Purple Rain	Trad		1.2.3.2. Ticket to Ride
			The Way, the Truth, the Life	Trad		1.2.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
		★★	Airs Above the Ground	Trad		1.2.3.4. House of Cards
		★	Tru Grit	Trad		1.2.3.4. House of Cards
		★	Fear no Evil	Trad		1.2.3.4.1. The Annex
		★	Alien Way	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★★	Bird on the Wire	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	Friendly Thief	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
			Manual Manipulation	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★	Powder Finger	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★	The Needle and the Damage Done	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★	Watching the Ocean	Trad 23m		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★★	Byron's Bitter Blessing	Sport 10		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
		★★	Steven's Sweet Seventeen	Sport 6		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
			Gain & Gifting	Trad		1.8. Pompies Pillar
20		★★	Natal	Trad		1.2.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
			Rabbit Killer	Trad		1.2.3.4.1. The Annex
		★	All My Sins Remembered	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	No Pain, No Strain, No Brain	Trad 20m		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	Worm on a Hook	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
21			Footsie	Trad		1.2.3.2.1. 'Natal' Face
			No Details	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★★	One White Duck on Your Wall = 100 = Nothing at All	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
			Superheroes	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
			Tessie	Sport 5		1.6.2. Millennium Wall
22			Unknown	Trad		1.2.3.2.2. Abattoir Pillar
		★★	Banana Boy	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★	Drunk in a Midnight Choir	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★★★	Bliksem	Sport 4		1.6.1. Blixem Buttress
			Philippians 4:13	Sport 6		1.8. Pompies Pillar
23		★★	The Crossing Guard	Sport 4		1.6.1. Blixem Buttress
24		★★	Teenage Punks	Trad		1.2.4.3. Linear Ledge
		★★	Yellow Joker/Jester	Trad		1.2.4.7. The Carnival is Over Area
		★★	Ama Crimpo Crimpo	Sport 4		1.6.1. Blixem Buttress
25		★★	Cool Banans	Sport 4		1.6.1. Blixem Buttress
26		★★	Life and Life to the Full	Trad		1.2.3.4. House of Cards