Nodes in Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort

Longest climbs in the Magalies along its south escarpment.

Closed due to the Vulture Colony

Starts at top of grass slope about 45m to left of broken, overhanging and cave-ridden blackish rock.

1. 30m 8 From start bear left over rock to prominent grass ledge.

2. 30m 3 Traverse along grass ledge to right 30m to base of ridge forming western bounds of a recess below brownish broken overhangs.

3. 25m 10 Bear over to face on right then work back to left across recess to ridge above starting point.

4. 25m 9 Traverse right across recess and below brown overhangs to crack on right of overhangs.

5. 25m 9 Vertically up 9m then traverse left to top of overhangs.

Note: Route involves a considerable amount of traversing.

Starts 5 to 10m to right of 'Rheebok Crag' but crosses latter on grass ledge and finishes to left thereof. The climb follows the line of a crack or recess which is the most important feature to left of 'Rheebok Crag'. The route adheres to this feature in an almost direct line.

A clearly defined cleft or crack extending the whole height of the krantz and about 45m to left of start of 'Rheebok Crag'. There is a clump of three trees - the only ones in the vicinity - at the top of the slope to the right of the cleft.

1. 18m 8 Up ridge to left of recess leading to grass ledge.

2. 25m 10 Original route proceeds straight up cleft on right but a more interesting variation is to start on face to left of cleft. The first 5m involves a difficult section thence easing off on a route which bears to right and joins the cleft.

3. 18m 9 Climb on left ridge of cleft up to a tree where cleft widens out into a crack forming a sort of cave.

4. 18m 8 Chimney work up interior to cleft.

The first pitch is the same as that for 'Aloe Cleft', but when the grass ledge is reached, traverse left to a rock buttress about 6m high.

1. 18m 8 As for 'Aloe Cleft'.

2. 25m 10 Up on right of buttress then bear right through a broken overhanging section to easier rock above.

3. 22m 9 Bear left to an adequate stance on grassy ledge directly above buttress.

4. 25m 8 An obvious route direct to top.

Variation: An alternative route from the top buttress may be taken for the second pitch. This goes up a face to left of the route described, is grade 9 and joins up at the grass ledge.

The start of this climb may be recognised by a huge wedge-shaped rook near the top of the krantz which appears to be stuck in a recess formed by a face on its right and an overhanging buttress on its left. This feature is 100 - 150m left of 'Aloe Cleft'.

1. 18m 7 Scramble up easy grey face to grass ledge.

2. 28m 10 Ascend grey face to right of buttress immediately below wedge-shaped rook at top of climb. This route goes up just to right of a recess formed between buttress and face.

3. 25m 10 Traverse right 12m then up inclining to right making for stance be low crack.

4. 12m 9 Up in recess or crack to a stance below overhanging block on right of wedge-shaped rock previously referred to and on the same level as its base.

5. 12m 9 To right around block into recess then straight up.

Variations: These variations are of like standard to the second and final pitches. Instead of the last 2 pitches, climb prominent white ridge to the right.

The route follows the general line of a small buttress immediately to the left of 'Paramount Face'.

1. 18m 6 Scramble up an easy grey face to the foot of the buttress and traverse along a grassy ledge as far as a steep grey face to the right of the buttress.

2. 22m 10 Commencing about 5m to the right of the recess between the buttress and the grey face, climb straight up the grey face to a long broad ledge. A tree belay is available by climbing another 5m but the ledge itself is adequate as a stance.

3. 12m 8 Traverse horizontally left to a small stance on the buttress.

4. 22m 11 Ascend the buttress on small holds on the face and climb a crack above the belay point. At the top of the crack traverse 3m left to a small stance below an overhang.

5. 25m 15 Traverse back into the top of the crack and continue traversing to right as high as possible onto, and around, the right hand corner of the buttress, reaching a small cubbyhole on the corner in an exposed position. To the right of the cubbyhole around a second small corner is a brown face with a crack running in it and a few small sloping footholds. Climb this face for 6m to a ledge with a block on it then traverse to left around the corner to the face of the buttress and ascend this face for 6m to a good stance.

Note: Small stances. Party should not exceed 4.

Start below first cutback 150 - 200m to right of 'Upthrust' at a beacon below right hand of two recess.

1. 40m 11 Up 5m to base of recess. Traverse right onto buttress which is climbed for 9m. Then traverse left to gully which is followed to large ledge.

2. 40m 11 Traverse left 6m into base of deep recess. Climb up recess, past steep bulge, for 22m and then diagonally up right to ledge on arete.

3. 30m 13 Up arete bearing slightly right. Move right at 9m across steep face and continue up arete to large ledge. Scramble to top.

About 200m right of 'Eureka Gully' is a prominent sharp arete extending almost the full height of the crag. Immediately left is an obvious corner with a triangular overhang at 2/3 height and on its left is a black wall capped by overhangs. The route follows the corner to the triangular overhang, then traverse left and directly through the top overhang where they funnel up to the high point. (See photograph.) Scramble up the grass slope to the base of the corner (30m 8). or alternatively climb the rock spur on the left and traverse right to the base of the corner (43m 8). Peg belay.

1. 34m 19 Climb 8m up the corner past a grassy ramp then traverse 8m diagonally left to a grass ledge on the face (peg runner). Move a few metres above the ledge and traverse back right into the corner just above a small overhang. Climb up the corner until forced onto the left face below a bulge, and up to a small stance and peg belay.

2. 25m 17 Move diagonally up leftwards and up a shallow groove to a ledge on the left at 9m (peg runner). Continue up the groove and the face above as far as possible (6m) until a move right can be made into the corner crack. (Moving into the bottom of the crack is much harder.) Follow the corner crack then move leftwards and up to a large chock belay 9m below the overhang.

3. 17m 17 Climb up the corner mainly on the right wall to a chock runner under the overhang, then move down and traverse 8m left about 2m below the overhang to a ledge and peg belay.

4. 23m 15 Continue the traverse left 2m below the overhang then move up onto the arete. Traverse a further 6m and climb 3m up the wall then traverse back right to the small ledge, and peg belay just above the overhang.

5. 43m 19 Climb up leftwards to the base of the steep crack which threads the final overhangs (15m). Climb up to a shallow recess then up the left wall directly to the crack above the bulge (last 5m on small holds). From here continue easily to the top.

Note: The route is much better than general 'Skeerpoort' climbs, providing sustained climbing and a fitting climax through the final overhangs.

The climb takes the prominent rib which goes up the highest faces in the Magaliesberg. The rib lies about 200m to the right of Eureka Gully. 'Upthrust' goes up just to the left of the rib. 50m of grade 7 scrambling (as for 'Upthrust') leads to the foot of the rib.

1. 40m 13 Start about 7m to the right of the centre of the rib. Climb the face, which is steep at first for 10m then either continue diagonal left up the groove or traverse right to the corner and ascend it. Protection is scarce. Scramble up the grassy slope to the foot of the corner which runs up the right-hand side of the rib.

2. 43m 17 Climb up the ledges to the left of the corner for 10m then continue up the corner / chimney. Turning the small overhang in the corner / chimney at 25m is the crux. Continue up till it is possible to traverse 5m left to a small very exposed stance on the centre of the rib.

3. 43m 11 From the right side of the stance, climb up 5m then traverse left to the large ledge. Climb the chimney that leads from the back of the ledge to the top.

From the main descent gully at Eureka, traverse right along the faces (i.e. towards Hartebeestpoort). After 300m one crosses a fence and at the same time the cliff has changed from short greyish faces to long black ones topped by overhangs in most places. The fence is level with the end of these faces. The cliff now becomes more vegetated and has a few long cracks cleaving it height. As one continues the cliff loses height and its base becomes more broken. The climb starts at the base of the first large break in the face. About one third of the way up can be seen a deep open book recess leading to the top. On the right of the recess there is a long thin tower of rock terminating in a 6m face at the top. Scramble 15m (B - C) diagonally left to the base of a reddish open book which lies on the left of the large recess.

1. 34m 13 Ascend the rock at the open book for 9m and traverse diagonally right onto a licheny ramp and up. At the top of the ramp is an open book. Ascend this to a broad ledge, which is the start of the 'chimney/open book'.

2. 15m 10 Traverse right to the pinnacle of rock leaning against the face. Ascend this to its top. Caution should be exercised as the rock is not too firm.

3. 9m 13 Take off directly above the pinnacle onto the steep face. Move left to a crack and ascend it for 3m (6m 13). Continue easily to the top. Rock is poor on this pitch and should be tested. Note: The first pitch is very pleasant, but the following pitches are somewhat less satisfactory, owing to the quality of the rock. Protection is poor on the first pitch.

Start as for 'Chicken Feed'.

1. 9m 9 Climb easily to a ledge, as for 'Chicken Feed'.

2. 24m 13 Traverse right for 6m over dark rock, then up about 9m and back left to a stance behind a large block.

3. 24m 15 Move up a small corner behind the stance to a small overhang. Traverse left onto a small arete and climb past the overhang. Then diagonally right to a stance on vulture ledges.

4. 30m 10 Climb more or less straight up to the large overhangs at the top of the face. Then traverse left until it is possible to scramble easily to the top.

Located 100 - 150m east of 'Eureka Gully'. The climb usually starts from the broad grass band or ledge which is about 30m above the top of the grass slope and may be reached by a number of easy routes. The commencement from this grass ledge is marked by a beacon about 9m to the right of a small cave.

1. 9m 10 Straight up on good holds for 9m to a small stance near a long rift running towards a very pronounced overhang with a green slab underneath.

2. 22m 13 Delicate sideways traverse of a short slab to a wide crack, then straight up and slightly to left for 18m to a good stance 6m under an overhang.

3. 9m 15 The stance is in a corner between the main face underneath the overhang and a small rib of rock projecting 1m to the left. Climb in this corner to directly under the overhang then stretch to left on to the rib which forms a 90o angle with the face. A small stance is then reached.

4. 15m 9 On good rock, climb 3m slightly to left slanting to right to a wide grass stance.

5. ?m ? Scramble to top.

Starts at a tree on the grass ledge about 18m to left of 'Chicken Feed'.

1. 9m 10 Straight up in right angled recess directly above tree to a cave.

2. 18m 9 Traverse right 18m from cave to small stance with good belay.

3. 12m 9 Up slightly to right for 9m to a corner, then out left about 2m then back to right for belay. Poor stance with room for 2 only.

4. 18m 15 Up slightly to right through small tree and over thin rotten section. Bear left over grass and loose rock leading further up to left to a small grass ledge.

Note: The climb is not recommended in view of loose and dirty section in fourth pitch.

Starts from grass ledge, about 9m to left of 'Lunacy' and 3m to right of a buttress projecting from the face. The climb follows an almost vertical line up the face from the starting beacon, in 3 or 4 pitches of grade 8 climbing. Climbs directly up the buttress and on left of buttress, also of grade 8, are considered variations of 'Eureka Face'.

This climb is usually commenced from the top of the grass slope a few meters right of 'Eureka Gully' , and ascends the first band of rock in 2 or 3 pitches of 9 standard to the broad grass ledge. Start from the grass ledge below a long grey face to the left of EUREKA FACE. The climb proceeds straight up the face in a series of pitches of grade 9.

Starting almost in the gully, this climb follows an almost direct line over the grass ledge and straight to the summit. The start from the grass ledge is cairned.

Follows a line to right of 'Eureka Gully', where a number of grade 8 routes may be selected. Leaves line of gully towards the top and goes straight up to summit.

One movement towards bottom of gully may be classed as 8, otherwise this is an easy route of about 6 standard to the summit of the escarpment.

There are several easy routes up the buttress on the left of 'Eureka Gully'. The easier climbs are chosen to start from the broken rock on the inner side, i.e. the gully side. Several routes exist further to the left, e.g. 'Agony View', but the first two pitches of these leading to the first broad ledge are of slightly higher standard.

Ambles up the ridge left of 'Eureka Buttress'.

The climb lies between 'Black Man's Burden' and 'Agony View' .

1. 35m 13 Climb nose of small grey face and proceed up to small open book. Step up into crack and then out to left at once on thin footholds. Belay above.

2. 35m 13 Continue over mixed grass and rock to large ledge with much evidence of vulture occupation.

3. 35m 3 Walk left along ledge to small beacon.

4. 30m 13 Climb up 6m, traverse left 4m and then up on good holds to ledge. Up left of gully - mantle shelf. Continue to top.

Notes:

1. Geological beacon No.2 at top of climb.

2. Rock generally clean and steep with good holds.

This climb follows a definite grassy cleft running up the entire height of 'Eureka Buttress' approximately at its centre. Several alternatives present themselves.

The climb starts about 150m right of 'Four Man Gully' in a prominent chimney.

1. 38m 17 Up in the chimney 25m to the overhang and continue up to a small stance.

2. 30m 15 Follow the chimney to a good stance on the right-hand side.

3. 30m 9 Continue to the top.

Immediately to right of 'Four Man Gully' the crag is steep and foreboding. Further to right the upper section of the face lies back in the form of a bay or large recess where a good size tree is growing 20m below the top of the krantz. Below this tree is a smooth 6m slab which on closer acquaintance proves to be deeply slotted. It is bounded on the left by a wall and above by a clean-cut overhang tapering away to the right. The route attains the foot of the slab by a 15m grassy crack running up to the left. The slab can either be avoided by a 5m traverse right and an ascent of the rocks immediately to the right of the slab, but more merit is acquired by ascending the corner on the left of the slab and crossing the top of the slab to the right just below the overhang. The large bay is now reached whence an easy route could be made out to the left. It is more interesting however, to continue the direct line of the climb and avoid the final wall by a traverse on to the buttress on the right.

Variation (not recommended – loose rock): The lower section has been more recently climbed as follows:

1. 15m 10 Climb the semi-grassy crack running up left into an open book.

2. 10m 11 Move up and left to the foot of an inverted pyramid of rock where tons of rock appear to be supported on a single small square block. Enter the crack to the right, move delicately round the pyramid and climb onto its front edge. Continue onto the long grassy slope below the upper section.

The area is on private property; liaise with the MCSA regarding access.

Some of the main Skeerpoort cliffs are off limits to avoid any possible disturbance of the vulture colony. Further, climbers are asked to avoid climbing at Eureka Dome from April to October since Black Eagles are known to nest in the area. However, as this is a South facing crag, it gets very cold in winter which means it’s best to climb there in the summer anyway.

The start and most of the first pitch are the same as for 'Cremation'.

1. 40m 11 Start directly below the right side of the right-hand and lower of two massive overhangs. Ascend the prominent open scoop that leads up to the overhang. After 5m move left into a smaller open book and ascend this to the slab (18m). Traverse left across the slab for 22m to a grassy stance 6m from the left end of the slab.

2. 16m 13 Move 3m left to a small open book. Ascend this and continue directly up the face passing to left of a small spike (pinnacle). Finally ascend a short narrow steep chimney to a large ledge.

3. 40m 11 Traverse about 9m left to avoid the overhangs above to a small nose via one or two awkward moves. After a few good moves the climbing eases. Continue directly up to a large ledge (18m). Walk left down the ledge to belay at the foot of the prominent chimney.

4. 18m 13 Ascend the chimney overcoming the overhang by chimneying to a one man stance (peg) with very smooth slab to right and the overhanging corner above.

5. 8m 17 Traverse delicately across the slab to a small stance.

6. 40m 8 Climb up to a small yellow-wood tree and then climb to right of a gully. After another 30m of steep grassy scrambling the grade eases.

Start about 100m right of 'Four Man Gully' and about 2m left of the fence, below a large overhang. At this point the face is split by two lines of overhangs. The route follows a crack on the left-hand side of the lower overhang and avoids the upper overhang on the right. A diagonal traverse back to the left gains arete which is followed to the summit.

1. 40m 11 Follow a ramp slanting to the left for about 18m to gain an obvious slab. Continue in the same diagonal line across the slab to a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and belay at the bottom of a crack level with the first overhang.

2. 20m 15 Climb the crack for 8m (Awkward to start), step right to reach the arete and traverse a few meters to a detached flake. Climb up a few meters on to the top of the flake (care needed here) and then traverse 6m to a good ledge and peg belay.

3. 45m 10 Climb straight up from the belay for 5m and then move diagonally left to reach an obvious arete. Follow the arete to the top.

Starts a few meters up 'Four Man Gully' on the true left hand side just to the left of a tree, opposite 'Sidewinder-Direct'. About 15m above are fairly large overhangs.

1. 20m 20 Climb the scooped face for 3m, then climb up to the right until one can traverse right to the arete. Move around this, and climb the corner above to a foothold stance where the rock steepens.

2. 25m 17 Traverse left to the edge of nothing, up and out of sight, to easier ground ledges lead down leftwards to the 4-man chocks). Climb laid-back rock to belay comfortably beneath the final steep section.

3. 20m 13 Up cracks and faces to summit.

Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and start climbing at the first overhangs.

1. 4m 20 Climb up on the true left to a ledge leading South (i.e. on 'Skeerpoort').

2. 40m 8 Walk along this ledge to a stance where the ledge ends. This is the top of 'Rattler'.

3. 15m 13 Climb up easy ground to a large stance from where the impressive brown overhanging face can be seen. The next pitch gets to the base of this face.

4. 15m 20 Traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From the jug climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner. The overhanging brown face is up and to the right.

5. 25m 17 Climb the corner. Move 1m left where the line diverges. Climb past a large roof, which is on the left, by lay-backing a flake. Stance on easy ground.

Note: Pitch 4 makes it "worthwhile".

This route climbs an amazing crack system up the ‘impressive brown face’ referred to in 'Mixed Grill'. This overhanging face is clearly visible from the start of 'Four Man Gully' , high up on the 'Skeerpoort' side and not on the dome itself. Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and scramble up chocked boulders until able to scramble (almost) right around towards the steep face. One is now at the start of pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'.

1. 15m 20 As for pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'. i.e. traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From jug, climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner.

2. 35m 21 To get into the crack system running up the steep wall, climb down from the stance, then up wall. Climb crack system until bulge. Make a hard move over bulge and up an amazing hand jam crack and excellent rock. Climb the very steep crack until angle eases. Continue jamming until able to stance at tree. Amazing!

Climbs the overhanging blocky wall opposite 'Pasta Noises' and "Trundle Time'. Holes for about 5 bolts drilled, but no bolts added. Will need additional trad gear.

The gully to the left of Eureka Buttress. This is blocked by a series of huge overhanging chockstones, the surmounting of which involves a short pitch of grade 10 climbing on the right.

Provides four of the longest climbs in the Magaliesberg.

Situated on the true left of the gully above the large chockstone and 7m to the right of 'Breaking New Ground'.

1. 30m 24 Climb the obvious steep crack past a bolt and a peg then up easier rock to a rap point. Superb climbing.

?

Start 20m up 'Four Man Gully' where a horizontal break cuts across the steep smooth gully wall. This is the right-hand wall of Eureka Dome.

1. 30m 19 Traverse left along the break to meet a vertical crack after 12m. Move up to the bulge and using undercuts move up right to a peg (in place), level with the bottom of the groove. Make an awkward move away from the peg to gain the groove, which is followed more easily. Move out left at the top and up right to peg belay below a steep scoop face. (This is at the horizontal fault running across the crag)

2. 12m 17 Ascend the scoop face above with strenuous moves then step right to a ledge and peg belay.

3. 15m 11 Ascend the rib above on the right to a tree belay in a corner.

4. 22m 10 Move up leftwards then across left over slabs to a tree belay.

5. 15m 8 Scramble to the top.

A direct start has been made to the vertical crack mentioned in pitch 1, by entering its base at grade 22, by C. Lomax and D. Cheesmond in 1980.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone about 10m right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 30m 22 Climb the obvious cracks up the wall to the break. Traverse left to the top of the first pitch of 'Sidewinder-Direct' and 'The Day Of The Smells'.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone. Start just right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 35m 24 Climb the thin discontinuous crack to the ledge.

The route ascends the steep grooves at the right of the buttress and follows the steep impressive corner above. Start 5m left of 'Four Man Gully' below the steepest groove.

1. 25m 19 Climb the groove to where it steepens at 6m. Ascend the smooth section, then climb a hollow flake on the right wall. From the top of this, traverse awkwardly onto a very sloping ledge. Traverse a further 6m left using a good handrail to a small ledge and chockstone belays.

2. 22m 17 Traverse 6m left and climb a very steep groove on good holds stepping left immediately above a small overhang. Climb the wall through aloes to a good ledge and peg belay in the horizontal fault running across the crag.

3. 8m 10 Ascend the recess leading up to the huge overhanging corner to a small stance and peg belay on the left.

4. 14m 19 Move up the bulging crack to the first overhang and using the left wall make a difficult move round it. Pass the second overhang using a wide crack to gain the easier-angled groove above. You may see an old wooden block from the original ascent. Lots of bird poo.

5. 25m 19 Make an awkward initial move into the corner above and ascend this with difficulty to 2m below the roof. Swing across the left wall and pull round into a shallow groove which is climbed to its top. Swing back right into the main corner above the roof and up to a good ledge and peg belay. A magnificent, well sustained pitch.

6. 15m 8 Move left and scramble to the top.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [19] 28m

   Climb a loose wall for 6m and step right to the foot of the central groove. Up this using the corner crack to a tiny stance with nut and thread belays at the top.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [17] 28m

   Climb 4m up corner crack. Hand-traverse left to edge and continue to traverse crack and chimney, then up to obvious small stance.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

Start in the descent gully on the left (west) side of the 'Eureka Buttress', opposite a large tree, the trunk of which forks 8m up (the tree is at the foot of the other wall of the gully.)

1. 20m 20 Ascend 6m, traverse 8m right to base of steep crack which runs up slightly overhanging wall. Ascend crack 8m (5 pitons) to small stance on sloping grey/orange slab. Piton belay.

2. 12m 19 Traverse 5m left, either high or low to crack. Ascend crack 4m. (5 pitons) A good move is made from the last piton over the overhang to the bottom of a flat, more easily sloping slab. Ascend 3m up slab to small piton stance.

3. 15m 19 Ascend face and recess above stance to a double stepped square overhang. Climb the overhang at its right end on the line of the recess (2 pitons). A mantle shelf brings one to a comfortable ledge.

4. 12m 8 Ascend diagonally right. Piton stance.

5. 22m 10 Diagonally right up ramp to the point where rock steepens and becomes red again. Stance on comfortable ledge. (Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined if preferred).

6. 18m 13 Up 6m, going initially left, then traverse 5m right above and past stance, ascend to level of traverse beneath overhang. Traverse right to stance in chimney.

7. 18m 10 Up chimney to ledge.

8. 6m 13 Walk left to block under the roof. Swing left and ascend a short steep section through the summit overhang. (As for finish of 'Birdbrain')

The route is to the left of 'Poacher'. It starts in almost the same place as POACHER but climbs up a mild corner approximately 13m left of POACHER'S crux pitch. A wide ledge which starts in the gully ends directly above the corner.

1. 20m 17 Climb onto a 2m buttress to start. Move diagonally left into the corner. Up this to 4m below a roof. There is a smooth slab on the right.

2. 18m 20 Climb diagonally right up the slab to a rail. Above is a 2m bulge. Ascend the bulge on jugs to stance on a ledge.

3. 15m 13 Walk right along the ledge then ascend a few meters to stance below a steep broken face.

4. 20m 20 Climb technically up the face. The stance is directly above the previous stance and is gained by pulling over a bulge to a ledge on the right of the vague corner. There is a large roof 5m above.

5. 20m 20 Traverse left to stance in a corner on easier looking rock.

6. 30m 19 Climb the corner above, exiting left at about 5m. Continue up diagonally left to the top.

The area is on private property; liaise with the MCSA regarding access.

Some of the main Skeerpoort cliffs are off limits to avoid any possible disturbance of the vulture colony. Further, climbers are asked to avoid climbing at Eureka Dome from April to October since Black Eagles are known to nest in the area. However, as this is a South facing crag, it gets very cold in winter which means it’s best to climb there in the summer anyway.

Start 30m left of the descent gully west of 'Eureka Dome' closely follow the rock edge on leaving the descent gully to reach a small buttress with a wide diagonal crack on its right surmounted by a large tree.

1. 30m 13 Climb 4m on grey rock to a pile of loose blocks at the base of a 12m layback type crack slanting 20o right in brown rock. Climb the crack (crux) and scramble up scruffy grade 8 rock to a face capped by brown overhangs.

2. 12m 10 Move up 3m and traverse right 9m to easy rock. Walk off into gully.

Note: A short exercise close to the meet point. Two persons can complete the round trip in less than one hour.

To the left of the 'Aftermath' buttress is a shorter buttress. About halfway along this buttress is an obvious corner. Start beneath the corner.

1. 30m 18 Climb the corner until suspect rock forces one to traverse right 5m. Climb the face to a good ledge.

2. 30m 13 Move diagonally right and up past some bushes to a ledge.

3. 40m 8 Climb non-descript rock to the top.