Routes in South Africa for selected grade

Solo the arête.

Scramble up to the first bolt at the roof where the route starts. Bust through the roof to the chains on interesting holds. Less whining more climbing!

About 50m left of 'Heck, Tick'. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

Climbs the diagonally right trending crack-line/seam out of the cave.

The arête right of Junkie and Juicehead. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top.

Start: Behind the Left Block, close to the start of Posternation.

1. Step off the block onto an arete and climb up to the ledge.

2. Climb the crack on flaky rock, then make an awkward and powerful pull through the bulge using a hidden slit far to the right to gain the Halfway Ledge.

3. Take the right of two lines of pockets on the undercut white slab above to a ledge. This section is steep and desperately thin on little finger pockets. Traverse awkwardly right past some horrible blocks before moving up to the ledge at the end of Plumbline Face traverse.

4. From the middle of the ledge, climb a tall, vertical knobbly face by reaches and pulls on good grips (may be some lichen at the top).

5. From the cave/ledge with the yellowwood tree pull up onto grey rock on the left ledge of the overhang and swing out right to the spectacularly undercut corner. above this it is steep, but straightforward to climb.

Climbs the face with 1 bolt 5-10m left of 'Strange Days' .

Note:

Bolt replaced in 2005

RAP DOWN THIS ROUTE!!!

The superficially blank wall above 'Soul Commotion' The route has lower-off's.

A long, satisfying journey with demanding sections.

Start as for Fantasy Factory but tend slightly right though the low roof and straight to the ledge. Continue straight, passing the first roof on the left, and then directly up passing two horizontal breaks (in this section there are some ancient bolts to the right from an abandoned project). At the next ledge, continue straight up a wide recess and though a weakness at the next overlap on the left. Navigate the centre of the final face, tending right at the top to a final crank through a roof to a ledge. Abseil tat to the left.

Starts in a right facing corner 50m left of the corridor gully. Climb the thin fingertips corner to a good stem rest at a cubby. Climb the corner above to the small roof, jug haul through the roof and all the way to the top! Extremely fun climbing and good protection all the way! Cleaned and ready for action!

Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance 5m right of 'Tree Love' rock start. Climb the corner through a roof, 3m right of the prow. Exits up left groove/ chimney.

The obvious crack up the left wall of BUTTERFLY. Scramble up to a stance at the base of a short recess a few metres below and to the right of the crack.

1. 25m 22 Climb up a few metres and traverse left into the base of the crack. Climb the crack and exit right near the top. From the ledge (on BUTTERFLY), traverse left across the face to the arete, and climb this to the summit.

“Mad Dog" is a direct variation of the 'African Lunch' 2nd pitch.

This route is a variation of Mean Eyed Cat and follows the line under the second roof towards the right (instead of simply exiting on the left and straight up). It offers superb and sustained roof climbing with great exposure as the slab used for feet turns vertical and drops away towards the end of the roof. The cam placings in the roof split offer good protection; exit the roof on good side-pull flakes and climb up and slightly right to a biggish head of rock over which slings can be hung for anchors. There are also several smaller placings just below the head which can be used for protection or as part of the anchor set-up.

Start on 'Atlantic Crag'

Start: down and tight of Yo Yo is a beautiful layback crack in a slim left facing corner.

1. Climb the crack and bulge to below the roof.

2. Move slightly left and break through the overhang above. Continue up on weathered rock to a ledge beneath some roofs.

3. Climb into a small bottomless dihedral, exit left and move up the wall to beneath a series of overlaps. Crank through the overlaps then traverse right to a shallow open book. Climb this to the top.

This route is in the left-hand face of the 'Verooka Palooka' open book. Start 2m to the left of the blocks at the base of the wall. Pull up to the rail then follow the laybacks up the obvious break to a peg. Climb past this and exit to the left.

Turns the roof right of 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [22] 20m Starting right of 'Cedarberg Recess' start, climb the face immediately left of the right arete. From a ledge about 2m below the roof traverse around to the right. Move up to the obvious rail, and rail left to the prow. Pull up past rails to easier rock which is followed to a stance.

Takes the vertical crack just left of 'Catharsis'. A #4 Camalot useful. Trad route with bolted anchor at the top of the crack.

Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.

• 50m: 17/18 for 5m, then 15 for 45m
• 30m: roof with loosish rock (not recommended, rather avoid by climbing further to the right)
• 22m: skirt the first little roof on it's right, then fairly straight up to large ledge.
• 20m: layback pinch flake
• 25m: white face *
• 20m: first corner from boulder (19), then step up to gain 2nd face (22)
• 55m: committing moves on smears

A direct start has been made to the vertical crack mentioned in pitch 1, by entering its base at grade 22, by C. Lomax and D. Cheesmond in 1980.

Towards the middle of the East Wing is a massive, deep chimney (Mamba Chimney). About 50m right of this the bottom of the crag is fairly broken. Start by scrambling up here to a ledge about 10m above the ground. This is about 8m beneath a long, narrow roof with an undercling crack around its left edge. The route pulls through this roof then moves left onto the steep wall with the splitter hand crack.

1. 50m, 22A0 Climb the corner to the base of the roof. Undercling left and crank round the left edge of the roof into a corner. Up this until able to step left to gain the base of the splitter. Climb the splitter to a good rail. Step left to the arête and climb this until able to step back right into the continuation of the splitter. Climb this for a few meters and then step left again to climb jugs to a good ledge in an alcove.

2. 30m, 17 Climb the crack above and left of the alcove. Follow your nose to the top.

Descent: Scramble down and left to the top of Mamba Chimney. A 20m abseil off the fig tree here gets you to the next fig tree just above the chimney proper. A 30m abseil from here gets you to the ground. Or you can walk off to the top. Notes: Opened with one rest. Still needs a clean ascent. From the top of pitch 1 it is possible to climb/scramble diagonally left to walking territory.

1. [22] 40m Climb 40m of capey climbing on excellent rock.

Instead of starting on No Charge start about 2m left on at the overlap with the undercling lip. Pull through this to a thin rail, then dead straight until you join BB at the small fin/open book. Don't wimp out and use the big holds on the left, they belong to Hang My Head: There is a whole sequence of beautiful subtle moves on that section! If you are cunning with small gear there is pro in the first 5m, however, it may be easier to just solo until the hard stuff is over. Route may be harder for the shorties, but probably better too.

Start: about 10m right of Railrunner, below a corner capped by a roof.

1. Move up in the corner, then traverse left to gain a small ledge 3m above the ground. Step down to the left to reach a good handrail and traverse left to stand under a small overhang.

2. Climb some cracks on the left to a small roof and continue past this to a rail. Rail right, then climb diagonally right to a hanging belay at a sloping ramp below the big roof.

3. Break through the overhang on the right to gain the ledge. Move left and up to a higher ledge.

4. Climb the last pitch of Railrunner.

Start on the blocks in the 'Verooka Palooka' corner, just to the right of 'Moon on Ice', and immediately to the left of a small tree. Climb straight up to the top past two bolts.

Start 6m left of 'Cedarberg Recess'.

1. [22] 20m

   Ascend a short steep crack to a niche below the overhang (3m). Pull around this, and continue up the crack above (strenuous) to a block, which is surmounted (strenuous). Traverse left 3m and up to a niche (alternatively climb straight up from block). Hand-traverse right, mantelshelf, and climb the crack above ( 'Cedarberg Recess' 15 variation) to a large ledge and belay.

2. [17] 25m

   Move left and up 3m then swing up onto the arete using sharp hold and into the base of a groove. Ascend the groove and then an awkward move out left below the overhang, then up a bulge and right to the top.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

The route starts from the right hand side of the long cave feature on the buttress. You have to scramble up to reach the start of the first pitch.

1. The start is undercut. Reach up for a good blocky hold, then throw to another hold up and right. Step left and up to an undercling. Move to the rail above and go hard right until able to pull onto a ledge. Traverse right into a corner. Step up to gain a rail, move right onto the face (crux of Fader's Frontal). Climb the face until able to step left into a niche. Stance.

2. Rail hard left, at one point stepping down to a lower rail. After stepping down, continue railing left until able to pull up to a long block wedged on the face. Continue moving left and pull up onto a small ledge. Stance.

3. Move up and left until you reach a corner crack. Climb the crack for a few meters before stepping off to the left. Continue moving left and up, aiming for the black roof split by a crack. Pull up into the crack (crux). Once above the roof, follow the wide rail left and past some blocks until you reach a good ledge with a layback crack in the corner. Stance.

4. Climb the layback crack to the roof. Rail right until able to pull up to another wider rail. Follow this back left and pull up into a corner. Climb the corner, moving out right under the roof and climb the face to an abseil point (tat). Either belay here or scramble up to a higher ledge and stance.

Start: This route starts on the "D" route ledge about 6m left of Valken Corner. As such the route can be approached from several ways, but the easiest would be doing the Valken D route, however Valken Corner would be a more fitting start.

1. Climb a tricky recess leading to an old peg of Valken Needle. Move slightly right through a small overhang, then up a clean crack. Continue diagonally left up the blunt rib to the top.

A direct line, with interesting pitches and the occasional run-out. With some more cleaning, it will be a 4-star route.

Access

Walk along the Right Face Arrow Face traverse. On the climbers left of the tunnels is a low roof ±15m up. Higher up, there is a long roof about 30m up. Start ±20m to the left of the left end of this higher roof, at a point below an off-width crack 20m above the path. Cairn next to the path at the base of the climb.

1. 25m (17) Follow a crack and short face to reach a small ledge. Continue up the face to the left of a small corner to a narrow chimney with an arête on the right side. Follow this to the off-width that was visible from the ground. Continue up to the ledge with a large sickle-shaped rock to belay on.

2. 25m (16) Climb the corner above and then a layback crack to a ledge. Head slightly left on a face and then easily up to a wide ledge. Walk ±6m right to the base of a clean corner crack.

3. 30m (22) Climb the corner and finger crack to a ledge. Continue up the short right-arching crack until able to pull through the steep left wall to good holds below the left end of the roof. Traverse left over a vegetated ledge and onto a large block. Move up and right to an easy angled ramp. Head straight up to a small grassy ledge (this section is easy but a bit run out with one good rail for gear about 2m from the ledge). A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

4. 15m (17) Traverse left and then up to a long, wide edge. Continue left along this until a long pull gains good holds above, which are followed straight up to a broad ledge (sparse gear). Walk right ±5m to a break in the lower overhang that runs across the back of the ledge.

5. 20m (17) Pull up to a wide rail and reach over the roof to good holds. Traverse left ±3m and then straight up until able to move easily left onto the big ledge with a tree at the base of a wide chimney. A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

6. 35m (21) To the right of the wide chimney is a left-leaning ramp with good holds, which is slightly separate from the face to the right. Follow the ramp for a few meters and step right onto a narrow ledge. Head straight up the edges on the face above to the next horizontal break. Continue straight up to a large block under the roof. Step right and up to pass the roof, then go diagonally left up a low angle slab to some large pocket-type features. From here crank up until able to reach good holds above the slopers. Continue easily up the face to the next ledge at a point just left of the bushes. Stance directly below the roof crack above.

7. 25m (15) Climb the leftmost side of the juggy face above to the top.

An alternative finish is to blast straight through the roof crack at the top of pitch 6. This was opened in 2012 as the stand-alone pitch called 'No Horizon'

Climbs the buttress to the right of Geomancer, up the right hand, downstream facing wall of the deep gully which forms the lower part of Cannon Fodder.

1. [22] XXm

   Climb up the face to the roof and pull through just left of the arete. Up the headwall to a ledge, staying left of the arete. Belay at the tree above the back of the ledge.

2. [18] XXm

   Climb the buttress above the tree.

This route ascends the very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. Start where some tree roots come down the face to ground level.

1. 50m, 19 Climb tree roots until able to rail left to a tree. Up to another rail, then left again to the base of a shallow open book/groove. Climb the face to the left of the book to a ledge. One can stance here but it makes sense to carry on up the main open book above and take a hanging stance about 5m below some massive blocks in the right wall.

2. 30m, 22 Continue up the corner, over the massive blocks. Climb carefully up the flake on the left wall to beneath the roofs. Power through and then traverse left to pull around the last roof. Climb the corner above until you run out of gear or rope.

3. 30m, 18 Continue up the corner to the top.

Notes: Small cams are useful

Start below a low roof on the wall to the right of 'Big Mamma'. Pull through this roof below the small tree and finish up the break.

(People who burden us with route names like this probably need to visit a psychologist.)

A direct line, with interesting pitches and the occasional run-out. With some more cleaning, it will be a 4-star route.

Access

Walk along the Right Face Arrow Face traverse. On the climbers left of the tunnels is a low roof ±15m up. Higher up, there is a long roof about 30m up. Start ±20m to the left of the left end of this higher roof, at a point below an off-width crack 20m above the path. Cairn next to the path at the base of the climb.

1. 25m (17) Follow a crack and short face to reach a small ledge. Continue up the face to the left of a small corner to a narrow chimney with an arête on the right side. Follow this to the off-width that was visible from the ground. Continue up to the ledge with a large sickle-shaped rock to belay on.

2. 25m (16) Climb the corner above and then a layback crack to a ledge. Head slightly left on a face and then easily up to a wide ledge. Walk ±6m right to the base of a clean corner crack.

3. 30m (22) Climb the corner and finger crack to a ledge. Continue up the short right-arching crack until able to pull through the steep left wall to good holds below the left end of the roof. Traverse left over a vegetated ledge and onto a large block. Move up and right to an easy angled ramp. Head straight up to a small grassy ledge (this section is easy but a bit run out with one good rail for gear about 2m from the ledge). A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

4. 15m (17) Traverse left and then up to a long, wide edge. Continue left along this until a long pull gains good holds above, which are followed straight up to a broad ledge (sparse gear). Walk right ±5m to a break in the lower overhang that runs across the back of the ledge.

5. 20m (17) Pull up to a wide rail and reach over the roof to good holds. Traverse left ±3m and then straight up until able to move easily left onto the big ledge with a tree at the base of a wide chimney. A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

6. 35m (20) Tricky gear. Traverse right on the narrow ledge 5 meters up and over a slanted, squeeze type feature to a huge jug. Pull up to a smooth ledge with succulents growing at the back (but avoid the dangerous loose boulder to the left). Pull up and right, and then slightly back left to the low angle slab just over the roof and continue as per the direct pitch. Scramble right and up to a small platform below the final face.

7. 25m (15) Climb the leftmost side of the juggy face above to the top

An alternative finish is to blast straight through the roof crack at the top of pitch 6. This was opened in 2012 as the stand-alone pitch called 'No Horizon'

Standing near the big pool one can see a very obvious huge open book about 30m right of the pool. This is THE IMPOSSIBLE DREAM. The next deep open book to the right of this (about 30m right, and right of the cave) is a large offwidth crack. This is KNEEJAM BLUES. HEAD ARRANGEMENT starts as for KNEEJAM BLUES and then branches off left and heads for the big roof. It breaks around the left edge of the roof and ascends the headwall to the top.

1. 30m, 16 Climb the first pitch of KNEEJAM BLUES to where that route heads up to the obvious massive open book. Continue up the pleasant corner to a block stance at an acacia tree.

2. 25m, 20 Climb the continuation corner above, past a fig tree (the original route went left to the arête for a stance and then back right into the corner). Make wild moves rightwards past the overhang and climb the slab until able to step left to a good crack line in the face. Climb this for a few meters and take a semi-hanging stance (It is possible to stance on the right soon after pulling past the overhang, but it is then very tricky to get back onto the face).

3. 40m, 22 Climb up to a rail about 3m below the roof. Rail left to a perch where the roof pinches out. Reach far left and crank through to gain the headwall crack. Climb this to easier ground. Jug-haul to the top.

Notes: The original HEAD ARRANGEMENT first pitch starts about 5m left of KNEEJAM BLUES and is graded 19A1. It looks very dirty and unappealing, but still awaits a FFA.

Start up the slabs right of 'Comes a Time'. Climb a crack/corner into the curving crack forming a corner above.

Features a rising traverse of large undercling features. Start between After the Goldrush and Imposter.

1. 15 (25m) Climb the easiest break through the bulge to the left of the Imposterchimney. Step left and follow your nose straight up to the ledge.

2. 17 (45m) Follow the fist crack just left of Imposter pitch 2 to a feature that looks like the head of an axe. Pass this on the left to a roof. Pull through (some loose sections) and up to the ledge. Walk right and scramble up to stance on a ledge (left of a tree below the left edge of the enormous roof).

3. 22 (35m) Follow a wide crack to a ledge below the series of roofs/flakes heading diagonally up and right. Pull up under the first roof and make a tricky move right to a layback. Continue up and right past another roof and then under a wide flare. Step right and then straight up the steep face and use a layback crack to gain a small ledge.

4. 13 (10m) Continue straight up the juggy face above.

Located about 40m downstream from the top of the upper area on the true left. The route starts just left of massive overhangs (piton can be seen in small rail just below the overhangs)

1. 23m 21 Start on a jammed block in the river, gain access to a big jug just to the left of a crack with a layback/dyno move, once you gain the crack, climb it to the overhangs above and move left out to recess with two cracks, climb the left crack to a ledge with a tree on it.

2. 15m 15 Climb the finger crack on the right hand side of the ledge, follow the crack to an awkward move involving a handjam, this takes you into a chimney with a big triangular block above it, climb out of this to a larger sloping ledge.

3. 40m 22 Above the triangular block is a jam crack that break through the slightly overhanging wall almost to the top, climb this until the crack disappears following as straight line to the top as possible. The protection is great all the way through this route, many nuts are very handy for the last pitch.

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top

Start to the right of Leguan, beneath the obvious left-facing open book.

1. 55m, 22 Climb up and left until able to traverse right to the base of the book. Climb the corner to a platform at the top.

2. 60m, 16 Start on the right side of the platform. Climb up the blocks, step left and up then traverse left to a gulley. Up this to a tree. Climb the fun corner behind the tree, step left to the arête at the top. Climb this ridge to the summit.

Features an intimidating roof crack that is easier than it looks. Start as for the Original Route, at the base of a rectangular tower.

1. 19 (30m)Climb easily to a small ledge (where the ‘’Original Route’’ heads up and right). Continue straight up the face to the left-hand finger crack above the overlap. Follow this to a broad ledge.

2. 18 (35m) Start in the left of two corners (reddish brown and undercut) and follow a series of vague corners to layback crack (left of a roof, yellowish rock). Follow this to a ledge below the huge roof.

Walk several meters right and scramble up to below the obvious roof crack through the right-hand side of the huge roof.

1. 22 (20m) Climb straight up to the roof crack. Fight through this and pull around the next roof to a small stance. A #4 Camalot is useful.

2. 17 (20m) From the stance, pull over a small bulge, follow a narrow corner arete and then straight to the top.

A fun line taking some rad features between comfortable stances. The line is pumpy and like all lines on the wall enjoys great views and exposure. The opening party scrambled up the gully and then to the right before walking left to the start, however one could add another pitch below.

1. About 3m right of the microwave sized wobbly block that is the start of the second pitch of Breeding Ground is a vague open book with a rather thin looking start. Take this until a shelf about 5m up, then head gently left over excellent rock for several meters, then vertically to the left side of a proud pillar which terminates 2.5m below a small roof. Take the left side of a a hanging buttress beneath a roof, then traverse right over the buttress to a stance just over the lip.

2. Head up the right of two open books directly above the stance. Negotiate the overlap and cracks above on pumpy face climbing to exit on a comfortable ledge. P2 and P3 could easily be combined.

3. Walk about 4m right to take an obvious crack to the ledge. Have fun on the See-Saw, you'll need it!

4. Yes, that crack through the roof you saw from the path- the one the two of you have been fighting over. Actually its more of a thick flake in the roof, and while it does make some noise when to tap it the thing is solid. But first start on the left end of the See-saw at a break with a pocket under a small corner of rock, then keep going up the face until the roof. About 2m after you pull through the roof take the series of parallel cracks heading slightly left to a block protrusion, then up to the top. Excellent pitch to finish you off!

Start a few meters downstream of 'Lifebuoy', in a left-facing corner.

1. 15m 22 Climb straight up to the largest flat roof and break through the right hand side of this. Continue up to a ledge on the right. Easy rock leads to the top.

Old bolts!

Climb the crack and then past three bolts on a pockety face

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

Start between Eclipse and Mad Dogs and Englishmen.

1. 17 (25m) Climb the face at the boundary of grey and brown rock up to a narrow roof. Pass this on the left and up to a bush. Continue up the hand crack to the ledge. Stance a bit to the left under the large corner above.

2. 22 (20m) Pull up into the large undercut corner from the left (some loose rock). Climb the right wall to a tiny ledge, and then follow the steep series of laybacks (crux) to a narrow ledge. Stance on the right.

3. 19 (20m) From the left side of the ledge (to the left of an ancient peg), move up and left over the void until able to pull over the bulge (to the right of a roof) onto the face above. Continue up and slightly left. At a blank section, stand on top of a triangular boulder to gain the large ledge above. Stance below and right of a roof with another roof a few meters above it. This is ~5m right of the last pitch of Prisoners of the Sun.

4. 16 (35m) Pull up onto the yellow, pocketed face and traverse left over the first roof. Move up to pass the second roof on its left. At the third roof, step left and pull through at a left-facing, grey projection. Step right and continue up to the top. Belay at the hippo and the zebra (if you can find them).

Another fine line, this time with three very different pitches, however plenty of air and arete.

Start: right of the large platform on which PGA starts ( and the start of the second pitch of HGA) is a stand of tall bushes which marks the base of a beautiful, but slightly intimidating wall. The first pitch starts about 3m right of the platform, maybe 2m left of a very vague buttress.

1. A committing and sustained starting sequence. head to a thin rail (at time of opening had grass on the left end), then up to an open pocket maybe a bit larger than a fist. Above the pockets is an obvious rail, then onto the much larger ledge above. Step right 2m, then pretty much straight for a while on big holds to a stance underneath an overhang, on top of a bit of a tower.

2. From the stance climb diagonally left to an obvious protrusion that marks the base of the arete. Join HGA for maybe 3m until the crack left of it emerges, then follow this until a right facing lay-back crack takes you to a good ledge capped by a rounded, featured crack. Confidently follow this to the Sea-saw ledge for a stance. Best use the large thread thru for a stance

3. Immediately left and above the large thread thru is a thin vertical crack (facing left). Follow this and exit right, then up to a dodgy looking/sounding/feeling but obvious laptop sized flake left of the arete. Continue onto the arete, then up it to the base of the right tending overhang above. Take the right side of the arete to a left tending break to gain the arete, then straight onto a vertical crack on the face and continue up to the top.

Start just right of the crack / recess. 3 of the bolts were replaced in 2005.

Easiest approach along Arrow Face Right Face traverse. Abseil point from the cherry tree below enormous detached feature mid traverse. Abseil down for the first 2 pitches from “base camp”. 50m rope just adequate.

1. [21] 20m Climb break in the centre of the wall in line with the abseil to a ledge.

2. [20] 30m Climb the short wall above through the roof. Up cleaned rock, slightly right at the small overhang, pull through and diagonally left to the cherry tree.

3. [12] 15m Scramble on the outside of the anvil-shaped feature and left to the tip.

4. [22] 25m From the tip of the anvil rail 1m left and climb straight up. Up the slab above to a thin crack break above small overlap. Up this, up to a higher rail to rest on the right under another small overhang. Up to the small ledge above on the left.

5. [22] 15m Straight up to the corner leading to the roof. Move left until an undercling and footholds enable one to reach above the overhang. Up the wall on the left to a ledge.

6. [22] 30m Walk 15m left to a corner leading to a rail through the roof. Climb up and left to the blunt arete. Straight up this. Continue in a straight line to chain on a big block in the middle of the bushy ledge.

7. [22] 40m Start 5m to the left on a white arete. Climb up on the pockets, up the break above tending left to below the obvious undercut chimney feature. Puzzle this out and finish at a chain just above.

8. [16] 40m Up 5m to a ledge. Walk left and climb the juggy wall to the top.

On the same level on the ledge to the right is a chain abseil point. 4 abseils off chains around blocks take you back to the traverse line.

Samson opened this variation inadvertently when he went off route. He started with a rope and a partner but had to untie when his belayer reached the end of the rope. With no anchor in sight and no chance of downclimbing, Samson forged ahead into the unknown and into the realm of legend.

1. Shared with Sunset Warrior.

2. NOT PROTECTED. Climb the groove above, but instead of traversing left continue straight up the groove and then face to the crux at around 25m. Keep going until you run out of rope (untie from the rope) and solo up to the top. Belayer has to rap back down.

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

The aesthetic arete visible on the right as you walk up the gulley toward the Knobless Robot. Sketchy gear in places, possibly some loose rock.

Start in the narrow section of the path in front of a large boulder. Pull up to a rail and traverse right almost into a recess on the right side of the feature. Pull up and left on steep grey rock to reach the slabby right side of the arete. Step left and up the arete to the bulge. Step left to gain good holds, up ~2m then step back right and up to the top. Tat rap point.

Start about 3m left of the CC. Head straight up the centre of the face to a mini arete projecting from the wall. Follow the left side of this to a wide rail. Pull over a shield type feature and up to a point where you can traverse left to finish up 'The Dusk Whales'.

Start 3m right of 'Cream Team'.

1. 12m 22 Crank up from a large square hold to just reach a small hold below a small roof. Rail left until able to climb up and back right to larger holds at the base of a short left facing dihedral. Pull up into this and exit right.

"The name says it all - Yosemite-style hand-jamming up a slightly overhanging crack"

Gear: Several large cams and a couple hexes.

Opposite SLIPSTREAM, and further upstream, is a rock buttress with two large, triangular roofs. IRON SOUL climbs a steep buttress to the left of these roofs. TWILIGHT OF IDOLS climbs a roof with a jam-crack between the steep buttress and the twin roofs.

1. 35m 22,A1 Climb up a short corner directly below the jam crack in the roof and traverse right for 2m. Continue up the recess above (there is a tree root growing diagonally right across the face) and climb through the 2m roof. Continue to top.

Starts from the same block as Sizzle. Climb up to a peg, pull through the roof and continue up to a bolt. Finish slightly to the right on thin holds.

Start about 5m left of the CC. Follow the vague arete to reach a wide vertical crack. Follow this to the crack leading through the roof. Continue up the short corner above to the vegetated ledge. Move right to a rap anchor (wire and touch point).

Takes the break 1 to 2m left of 'Cream Team'. Start 2m left of 'Cream Team' undercut base.

1. 15m 22 Climb a smooth slab to a bottomless cubbyhole beneath a roof. Pull through to a fin. Climb the crack up to the steep wall above, finally stepping right and using the arete to top out.

Deadpoint from the rail in the pillar to the obvious hold. Break left and exit through notch in the roof on to the juggy face.