Routes as trad in Kasteel Buttress

Start: this route starts below a noticeable square lipped cave (whose left end rises) about a pitch up. on the large grass and bush lined ledge which starts from the Band Stand.

Allow plenty of time to find the start.

Start: The route lies up the curved rib which is capped by an overhang, 12m right of Valken Ravine (Right-Hand Route), and to the left of Kasteels Gully. (take the Valken Ravine approach).

1. [9] 18m

   "Black Face Pitch." Climb the black face 13m right of Valken Ravine waterfall. Walk left to a corner 5m right of the Right-Hand Route.

2. [15] 28m

   Climb the corner to an overhanging flake. Step up onto the flake, then move up to a higher foot rail. Traverse right for 6m and climb s clean face with a tricky finish. Walk right for 19m to the next beacon beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 30m

   Climb a short distance up a crack beneath the overhang, then diagonally left. Once above the level of the overhang, move right, then climb an easy face.

4. [9] 8m

   Climb the corner directly move to a stance shared with Valken Ravine RH. One is now beneath the prominent bulge on Castle Rib.

5. [13] 15m

   A few overhanging moves on the right of the bulge enables on to traverse to a chimney, which is then taken to complete the route.

Start: From the KP path 9m right of Crag.

1. Climb 5m of easy rock left of a nose. From a broad ledge climb a 4m flake diagonally left until the overhang is reached, then traverse 5m left to a block. Climb the recess 3m then traverse left to the top of the pitch.

2. This pitch runs up a grey face forming the right side of a corner. he face has a shallow recess on the upper section. Climb diagonally left 3m to a corner which has a tiny resting place, From there traverse right 3m along a small horizontal crack to the bottom of the small recess on the right. Climb the recess for 11m to a ledge. From the small ledge continue directly up for 8m to a stance on a broad ledge. Scramble up to a ledge beneath a band of overhangs. Traverse right to a tree and large detacthed block. (Kasteels Frontal beacon can be seen on the right).

3. From an awkward position on a large block under the overhang on the left below the nose: Reach for the lip left of the undercut overhang and pull up to a ledge on the left corner. Climb 2m up the recess, then a tricky move right to gain the crest of the nose. Continue up the crest for 3m for a small ledge. Kasteels Frontal traverse left along this ledge to the recess. Climb the face above. 5m of "D" grade scrambling leads to the bottom of the next pitch.

4. Climb a the ceiling capped recess next to a bush for 8m to the ceiling. Traverse left around the corner to a small ledge. Climb onto a small detached block about a meter long which projects from the face. Climb the bulging face before stepping right into a shallow, vertical recess which is ascended 12m to a ledge.

5. Climb up an overhanging crack immediately above for 3m, then traverse diagonally right for 6m onto a broad ledge. Continue traversing right to another broad ledge at the base of a recess.

6. Head up and right to the bottom of a flake which is followed diagonally left to a recess. take this recess to the summit.

Start: the route is up a corner 50m from the Band-Stand on the KP. Its most noticeable feature is a large square block about 35m above the start.

The Route begins in the large recessed corner left of the black waterfall which forms the lower right wing of the buttress, just above the path which traverse across the buttress from the Band Stand to Barrier traverse.

1. Climb the corner for 18m to a roof, traverse left to a wall before climbing diagonally left around the corner and up to a stance.

2. Climb the face to a dassie ledge, traverse right 12m to a corner stance below a large square roof.

3. Climb the face then move right onto the corner. Ascend the corner to a broad ledge.

4. Climb the corner directly above, then scramble to the summit.

Start: the route takes an obvious crack and small tree 5m right of the Turret corner, or about 8m left of a vague arete.

1. Climb the crack to a cubby hole then exit the crack right onto a small platform.

2. Continue up the short face to a wide ledge, then climb an easy face on the left to the stance (below the crux of Turret).

3. Climb diagonally left, then traverse left 3m to the base of a short face. climb straight to a cubby and continue diagonally left to a ledge next to a large block.

4. From the blocks on the right end of the ledge, climb the corner to a short ledge below an overhang. Traverse right to the tip of a nose, then straight up to a wide ledge. Scramble to the top of the buttress.

Harder for the shorties.

Start: about 15m left of the Turret corner is a grey face with a break running up its centre. this line takes that break.

1. Start on the right edge of the crack and move up to a small cave. Traverse right over a slightly broken face the climb left to a mantelshelf and stance. I think this is below a small stepped overhang.

2. Above and right is a fine belay among some boulders on a ledge. From this ledge continue diagonally left to an obvious break (2 pitons).Continue to directly below the overhang, then up to a curious crack.

3. Continue straight up a crack.

4. Climb an easy overhang above and left to the ledge and move right to a good stance.

5. Either take the recess of an easier crack on the right.

6. Take an obvious chimney type crack on a boulder.

"A One for the Road Climb. It had to be some someday."

Start: from the band-Stand there are two obvious cracks, this line takes the first one, which is on an orange recess capped by overhangs and left of black water worn rock. Yes, its that obvious line.

1. Ascend the recess to the first overhangs where you are forced right then up a slightly bulging, striped slab. Continue up the square recess above before a long diagonal left until a large ledge is taken.

2. Take a tall chimney at the back of the ledge, left of a flat face. The chimney degenerates to a short, tricky bushy gully at the top.

1. [21] 30m

   Start up an undercling into two layback flakes. Continue up the face to the right of the wide crack and to the left of the orange rock. Once on the big ledge move to the gray face to the right of the chimney.

2. [19] 20m

   Up the grey face to the wide rail. Pull over roof on brown and black rock and the move right to Arête. Near top step left and scramble up to abseil tree.

1. [20] 25m

   Straight up the face at a break in low roof. Pass a higher roof on right and then left of a black roof to reach the ledge.

2. [18] 20m

   Pass the roof on the grey face on the right, then arc back left with a tricky move near the top.

Pull through the lower roof then up the black streaks to the right of the beige rock in the middle. Tend a bit left near to top into a short, vague corner then straight up.

Up the steep orange and black stripes to the right of the bigger recess. The route tends left, always just right of the recess. Very satisfying.

Up the crack, step slightly right and then follow the weakness to the top.

Climb the black, left facing corner, step right and then follow the weakness that is parallel to Day Zero. Sting in the tail