Routes as trad in BEE Buttress

Starting just left of the overhang at the far left of the crag, climb the face tending very slightly right. Stance at the level of the abseil point.

1. At the left side of the crag, pull onto the middle of the sea-facing wall. At the first rail, traverse left to a tiny platform, and climb up just left of some vague arête features. Hanging stance at the level of the main roof.

2. Move slightly right and then straight up, using a layback crack system at the vague bulge. Stance at the level of the abseil point.

1. At the left side of the crag, step off a boulder and into and arched crack. Follow this left under a roof to a vertical finger crack. Pull up past a vertical thin-hands crack to a wide rail. Step left and crank over a bulge (crux) to a thin rail. Establish on the vague arête, and climb up to a hanging stance (shared with Honey for your Money).

2. Move diagonally up and right for about 10 to an overlap (to the left of the long vertical crack in the centre of the crag. Pull through and climb straight to the top of the crag. Stance at the level of the abseil point.

Takes the central line up the centre of the steepest part of the buttress. The first pitch goes free at grade 24 to the hands free rest in the roof. This pitch will go free at about grade 28 if you can do the boulder move. (There was an ancient bail wire in the steep crack just below the roof, so someone has played here before).

1. Start from the ‘sheep’ in front of a boulder. Pull steeply onto the face and up to a small ledge. A hard move up and left leads to a traverse left to the step vertical crack. Follow the crack to a hands free rest in the roof. Aid through the roof boulder problem using a marginal fixed wire. Move left to a tiny square stance.

2. Follow the vertical crack system to the top of the crag.

Possibly the most striking line on Bee, this line takes the open book that separates the face routes on the main face from the steeper lines of the left. Considered one of the best lines in the area.

1. Head up easily and diagonally on good orange rock to gain the base of the steep clean crack. Climb this, and continue to where it becomes a thin finger crack. Continue straight up on easier ground, through the roof above on the right, to a ledge.

2. Climb straight up and diagonally right through some small overhangs on the left of the head wall to the top.

Start: as for AA: start beneath the huge hanging corner that is AA.

1. Climb up to a fairly wide ledge, then traverse right to the corner of the buttress. Step up and move right to the main face of the buttress, then climb up for 18m to a wide ledge. Walk right for 2m to the base of a thin vertical crack, 2m right from the edge of the ledge.

2. Climb this crack to a small ledge and continue straight up the undercut fault to a small recess. Climb the right hand edge of this recess for 6m to a small stance at the top of a pinnacle.

3. Go up to handrails beneath the overhang, then traverse 6m right to gain a small ledge. climb the fault above, past a small, lose (but safe) flak to gain the ledge and traverse right to a stance.

4). Traverse back left to reach an undercut recess directly above the last pitch. Climb this to a broad grassy ledge and continue up the weathered face beyond to the top of the buttress.

1. Make a hard pull up into a narrow bottomless corner. Continue up to a ledge with blocks, Some hard moves up and right gain the steep, wide crack. Follow this and then exit right to stance on the white face to the right. Solid at the grade.

2.From the Anvil, head left to the stepped arête and climb just right of the arête until the overhang at the top Affirmative Action. Step left and continue straight up.

This is just a direct combo of some existing routes with linking sections.

1. Start on Joker but continue straight between two bushes to a dark grey face. Climb the intermittent crack and then step left and through the bulge to join Beeline. Continue straight to a small ledge (below and left of the projecting block where Beeline goes.)

2. Head up and slightly left to follow a break through the overlap above. Head straight to the top of the crag.

Start at the extreme right of the traverse ledge on the left of a huge detached flake of rock.

1. [16] 20m

   Climb up behind the huge flake, then move left and pull up on to a ledge. Move left around the corner on to the front of the buttress. Climb up a short corner then traverse left to stance beneath a dark grey face.

2. [16] 20m

   Awesome layback moves to climb the left side of the grey face and pull through a small roof to establish yourself in a spectacular position beneath another small roof. Traverse right for 5m of glory then climb up some choss to stance on a comfortable ledge.

3. [15] 18m

   Climb to the roof, then make an exposed traverse to the right until you can climb into an obvious corner. Climb up and stance.

4. [12] 30m

   Climb diagonally left across faces to the top.