Newlands Forest Guide

Sit start on good jugs, move up to lip and then traverse all the way along the obvious lip/prow. TO at the peak of the prow, being a similar finish to Mike's traverse.

Sit start on lowest hold, move R, then up to the next rail, trav R to TO on the prow.

Start as for Mikes Traverse and move out right to sloper on smooth face where a solid kneebar can be done to reach a jug higher up.

Start as for Mike's Traverse, traverse right to sloper on smooth face where an undercling and laybacks far to the right are used to get to the jugs above.

Sit start with both hands on good edge. LH to arête, RH to sloper. Throw for good rail. TO

Low SS with LH on small layaway and RH on good layaway, climb to TO.

Landry Lushima

Climb Hip Hip Chin Chin, but trav L along the lip to TO as for Xibalba

Start as for low start of Hip Hip Chin Chin, climb L to finish as for Xibalba

Ascent by Jarryd New

Ascent by Nicholas Allan

Start with LH in crack and RH on pointed hold. Move right on slopers to good jugs. Big move up and left to catch sidepull. TO.

Landry Lushima

Send footage at 13:12

SS climb arete, keep going L to the same TO as for Hip Hip Chin Chin

Start as for Hip Hip Chin Chin. Once at jugs, RH up to sloper on arête (good holds on the other side of the arete are off), LH to bad pinch just under the lip. Once the lip is gained, traverse slightly left to TO.

Curtis Pow Chong

Nicholas Allan

Landry Lushima

Crouch start on good jug. Follow jugs on and slightly right of arête. TO.

SS then match on slopey jug, then climb diag R to TO as for Scissor Fight

Eliminate problem. See video below.

By Sheldon Smith

Start low in the hole then traverse over to Dionysus and do it the hard way

Awesome climb, instead of using slopey jug on Dionysus use crimpy undercling - Sheldon

Sit start with BH on good hold in rail. Move left on diagonal rail on slopers. TO.

Video

Video

Start as for Snail Trail, but move straight up via poor slopers to TO.

Video

Video

Start as for Snail Trail / Scissor Fight, but move up and right to TO via slopers.

Beta Video

Not bad, earlier start to The Bimbler, cool moves - Andrew

Climb Another Winner (Variation 1) to the rail, then downclimb Snail Trail to join Overconfidence

Start on the far R, trav L using holds on or below the lip to TO as for Scissor Fight

Start as Accidentally Overlooked but trav left to TO as for Xibalba

Start as Hip Hip Chin Chin, move right into and top out as for Accidentally Overlooked

Start as Hip Hip Chin Chin, move right into Accidentally Overlooked, top out as for Xibalba

Start as Accidentally Overlooked and pull over the lip off the slopes as for Compression Session. No eliminations.

Start as for Accidentally Overlooked and top out as for Compression Session. Don't use any of the holds to the right of the arete - only the sloper at the top of the arete is in.

Start as for Accidentally Overlooked and top out as for Compression Session. Don't use any of the holds to the right of the arete - only the good sloper to the left of the big jug is in).

Start as for Hip Hip Chin Chin then climb Another Winner

Start at the tree, climb down and around the corner and climb up on the crimps on the left. Probably easier for the short.

Sit start and mantle over the rock.

Sit start below the arête with RH on crimp and LH on side pull. Bump LH to big side pull, move slightly right and then straight up. (Note: It seems that the smaller block at the foot of the boulder is in for feet, although it is not part of the boulder proper).

Climb Memories until the good pockets then break right on to a long crimp to finish as for Dominatrix.

Eliminate. Starts as for Memories, but big side pull for LH is out. Instead, LH goes straight up to slopey ripple.

Eliminate. Start as for Corporal Punishment, then do a big move out right to a crimp and continue moving right using a long crimp to top out next to the tree. The good holds of Memories are off. Video here.

Closed Project

Sit start in the rail on the R side of the scoop, escape upwards via edges.

Sit start as for Memories, LH up to the big layaway, RH up to pinch/crimp on the arête, then throw to top (slightly L).

Start as for The Dropout, climb up and right until hands are matching on a good ledge higher up right (being careful not to touch the boulder behind you), then move left and up to top-out.

High stand start with both hands on a diagonal undercling crack, right hand to sloper, left hand to a crimp and top-out direct.

Seventh Subject eliminate variation. Climb Seventh Subject but without using foot grips in the big hole.

Sit-start on crimps, move up and then left to join Seventh Subject.

Reach/jump to holds in hollow, climb diagonally left to TO.

Stand start with BH on edge in the middle of the face, up to the hollow above, RH to pinch, TO straight up.

Jump-start to the hollow then same TO as U19 Girls Basketball.

Start as for U19 Girls Basketball and move left to join Swim.

Beta Video

Sit-start below the blunt arête with left hand on a sloper and right hand on a slopey crimp, campus right hand to a slopey edge, left hand to sloper / sidepull and top-out direct.

Swim Beta Video

Start as for Swim Coach, move up right to join The Deviant and then straight up to top-out.

Standing start to Swim Coach. RH on slopey edge, LH up to sloper/sidepull, throw RH to sloper/sidepull, TO.

Figure 8 Climbing

Swim Beta Video

Start as for Swim, now instead of going for the sloper / sidepull, left hand goes a bit higher and further left to a good layback, right hand up and top-out.

Start as for Swim Coach and move up to join Dikfer.

Start as for Swim, left hand to sloper / sidepull, throw right to diagonal rail and finish up U9 Girls Basketball.

Beta Video

SS just right of the groove/crack. LH on layaway, RH on opposing slopey edge, climb the slopers to TO.

Figure 8 Climbing

Beta Video

SS as for After School Adventure, traverse R to join and TO as for Font

Start as for After School Adventure and traverse right to finish up Swim.

SS with RH on large sidepull/pinch, LH on low pinch, RH up to a very slopey pinch, LH to sloper, then throw to the very slopey top, TO. (An easier version exists if you use the holds on the R).

Figure 8 Climbing

Climb After School Adventure but eliminate the right hand pinch.

Start as for After School Adventure and traverse right into the top-out of U19 Girls Basketball.

Sit-start on a slopey shelf, traverse left along the face to the rail of Tuckshop Bully and top-out left of Tuckshop Bully.

Start as for Swim Coach and head up right to join U19 Girls Basketball.

Start with BH in slopey rail, dyno to the top of the boulder, TO.

Hang start on lip of low, mantle to TO.

Sit-start hugging the prow with left hand on a crimp and right hand on the slopey corner, now slap up the corner until reaching a good finishing hold for left hand.

SS with LH in pocket, RH on sloper, throw RH to poor pinch, TO. (Holds to the R of the starting holds are off route).

SS, climb R up corner, TO.

SDS and climb the arete move R.

SDS climb the face using crimps to the R of A1.

Stand start, from the good rail, do a long move to the wondering rail near the top of the boulder. Give yourself an extra half grade if you SDS at the arete.

Stand start, start between the good rail on the left and the good rail on the right. Using these climb to the top using the gaston up left.

Stand start, start between the good rail on the left and the good rail on the right. Use these and then use the good right hand layback and the crimps on the face.

Start with both hands on the rail to the left of the blunt arete and climb the blunt arete to the top.

SDS at the arete, traverse leftwards staying low and climb the blunt arete from the righthand side

SDS at the arete traverse leftwards and up the vague groove.

SDS on the arete and climb the arete

SDS on the left arete (at A1) and traverse the boulder and finish up A10.

SDS on the right arete (same start for A9) traverse leftwards and finish on the left arete (finish same as A1).

Traverse from left to right just below the top of the boulder. Eliminate the top of the boulder. Start up A2 to the good rail near the top, traverse rightwards and finish up the right arete.

Traverse from right to left just below the top of the boulder. Eliminate the top of the boulder. Start up A9 to about 1m from the top then traverse leftwards and finish up the left arete (the top of A1).

SDS left hand in layback/undercling, go up then diagonally right to the top

SDS on the left arete, traverse the lip and mantel about 1m from the right arete. A fun alternative is to not use the low feet grips except one at the start, so you do the lip traverse heal hooking.

SS and climb the crimps to TO.

Stand start with RH and LH on obvious holds and move up and R using the layaway to TO.

Stand start with good hold on the left and climb the arete into a flaky crack.

Sit start with left hand on layaway and right on flake, move up to right hand layaway, then huge move up left to a jug.

Start as pandemic. Right hand to sloper on the arete and left to gaston. Top out via jug.

Sit with fake and move right to the seam on the slab

Start as for Work from home, climb this until left hand is on the seam, then climb diagonally to finish at the Digital Vibes top out

Stand and climb the slab.

Sit with low jug and climb the slab using the sloper on Digital Vibes with your right hand.

Sit with jug and climb out right then up arête/prow

Stand with slopey holds chest height and then climb arete/prow

Sit wit juggly block then climb up slab

Sit, move up arete and finish up the slab.

Previous description which was slightly contradictory read: "Sit up to crimp then finish on the left"

Sit start, up arête to jug next to tree, then top out without dabbing the tree.

Sit on mat start, right hand on layback left on a crimp. Climb up to the left of Zoom using the laybacks.

Using the laybacks climb to the face.

Stand and climb the crimpy face

Sit on right with pocket and edge, climb the fontesque arête.

Climb the middle of the slab

Sit on left, climb up on opposing layaways to interesting top out up the middle of the slab (no traversing off)

Stand and climb the sloping arete to TO as for 2.

SS on large flake, move up onto ledge and TO on slopers.

Start on small slopers and move up (block to the right is out.)

Sit-start with left hand on a low crimp sidepull and right hand in the seam and throw up to the lip. It's only one move, but to do the true crux you must sit-start on a ground mat only – no triple mat sit-starts.

Sit-start and move through the overhang. A boulder will need to be removed from the base.

Sit-start with left hand on a good incut and right hand on an edge, right hand to a good ledge on the lip, LH to the lip and head up left. Big jug rail above the lip on the right is off.

Sit-start on the lip and mantle.

Sit-start on the slopey layaway.

Sit-start with both hands squeezed in a small pocket and move up. The low ramp at the base on the right is off for feet.

Sit-start with right hand on a good sidepull and left hand close by on an edge, left hand to an incut edge, right hand to a small incut rail and top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand in the rail and right hand on a good but awkward grip, move up to a right hand jug on the arête and mantle.

Sit-start with left hand on a low sidepull, move up to a rail and throw to a jug.

Sit-start with left hand on an edge on the arête and right hand on a crimp sidepull, left hand to an edge on the arête.

Sit-start below the arête on gastons and top-out direct.

Climb as for Wishing Well, but sit-start (sitting on the rock) higher on the layaway.

Sit-start on a layaway, climb up and left.

Stand start with left hand up on a square ledge and top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on a gaston and right hand on a sidepull and climb the good looking arête.

Sit-start with left hand on an incut grip and right hand pinching the arête, top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on pinch and right hand on diagonal sidepull, move straight up and then up right to top-out. (The separated piece at the base is off for feet)

Sit-start with left hand high on a sidepull and right hand on a low incut crimp, top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on the arête and right hand on an edge and climb straight up the face.

Sit-start and climb the face.

The sit-start to Nimbus.

Sit-start with left hand on an incut and right hand low on a pinch, left hand up to an incut edge, right hand to a crimp, move left to a good hold and top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on a diagonal edge and right hand on a diagonal sidepull, left hand to the slopey arête, move up to a slopey crimp sidepull for right hand and top-out direct.

Sit-start with left hand on a good incut and right hand on an incut, left hand to a diagonal ledge and move up to a sidepull on the slab.

Sit-start with left hand on a low edge and right hand high on an edge, left hand to a sidepull. Everything left of the crack is off for hands.

Sit-start with the jug / crack, move up right to a good ledge and top-out direct.

Sit-start and climb the crack feature.

Sit-start and climb the face.

Sit-start with left hand on the arête and right hand on an edge.

FA by Jarryd New

Ascent by Jarryd New

"Very good and sustained! Below the lower Scree boulders" - Gregory Streatfield

Ascent by Jarryd New

FA by Marijus Šmigelskis

Brilliant dyno to spider nest... - Marijus Šmigelskis

RH to small undercling, LH up to micro gaston/crimp

Sit start to freak of the week

Video

Just up from temple- low sharp crimp traverse

Start in toe hooks and climb up with mossy top out. Just further than temple

Start in rail then climb up the side pull to a harder top out. Up left from temple on the same boulder

FA by Marijus Šmigelskis

Jarryd New

It’s a right exit to The Temple of Boom from the knee bar where you do 3 really hard moves (around 8A) - Nicholas Allan

Behind Creative Genius

The Holy Grail start, into Auto Eject.

using the pocket on the left will make it easier if you're tall enough - Marijus Šmigelskis

FA by Marijus Šmigelskis

Climb the scooped wall and continue to the interesting topout

Standing on the cheatstone, start with two small sidepulls, move up and dyno to the lip. The holds up right are off. One of the hardest problems in the forest and a dyno to boot!

Climb as for Leftfield, this time using the holds up right. The arête is off.

Stand start on a reinforced hold and move up to the lip.

Climb as for Unnamed 1 but head up right to a crimp.

Sit-start a little right of Unnamed Arête with right hand up on a layaway pinch and climb the arête / slab to top-out.

Sit-start high on a layaway and climb straight up the arête.

Sit-start with left hand on a large pocket and right hand on a large sidepull.

Crouch-start with left hand on slopey ledge & right on slopey sidepull on the arête and climb into Little Bleau.

Sit-start hugging the corner with left hand on a sidepull and right hand on a bad sloper. The big low footgrips are off.

Sit-start with left hand up on a bad slopey sidepull and right hand low on a jug sidepull, left hand to a slopey pinch just above on the slab and head straight up the slab to a jug / knob.

Start with left hand on a slopey gaston and right hand higher on a sidepull / pinch on the arête.

Sit-start with left hand in the groove and climb the broken face keeping left.

Stand start, left hand on a layback crimp, right hand on a grip just left of the arete. Climb directly to the top left corner of the face.