description
The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.
80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.
85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).
60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.
and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.
Same as pitch 4.
100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.
60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.
120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.
40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.
120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.
50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.
120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.
Time for ascent: 8 hours.
Route history
| Apr 1960 | First ascent:
R. Baillie & B. Clark (1) Pitons are necessary both for direct aid and for belaying. (2) M. Mansacos and L. D. Schaff had almost completed the route previously, but were forced to retreat after pitch 7, having climbed a pitch directly above pitch 6. (3) The first recess (the right-hand recess) does not provide a practical alternative to pitch 7 as it does not lead to a stance. |
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Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: -33.40663, 19.30577
Grade citation
| 15 A2 | Assigned grade |
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