Routes as trad in South America

The most famous route on Pao de Acucar and a mega classic for Rio. It's often done in two or three pitches and doesn't go all the way to the top. It's usually completed by connecting to other routes along the "West face", going all the way to the summit. This technical face and slab climb is directly under the cable car. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the "Variante da Italianos para o Cavalo Louco", or the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly sustained climbing.

1. Pitch 1, 35m; Slab climbing through to the technical face crux near belay

2. Pitch 2, 43m; A sustained slab and face.

3. Pitch 3, 20m, Continue upwards to belay at shared anchor with CEPI or continue to make use of your full rope length.

Take about 14 draws and a few runners. This routes takes around 3-6 hours to climb to the summit.

There is a new finish on a bolted line aside the ferrata - "CEPI em Livre".

Great mixed multi pitch 5 minutes from the hut. All belays well bolted and double as abseil decent. Single 60m rope is fine. The first pitch starts approx 10m left of large boulder and can be climbed two ways; a grade 5 with some really cool crack climbing or a meandering 4 arriving at double ring bots. Second pitch is the hardest, graded 5+. From second belay head up crack to ledge. Traverse right 12 meters to double ring bolts to finish the climb - if you go left, it's a 6b. Optional 4th pitch (last pitch of Sifuentes-Monti), grade 5 30m. Can rap off the front via three 30m raps or also use ring bolt behind climb. This decent requires short rap to ledge, traverse left to double ring bolts

One of the most popular routes at Frey. Starts on the right side of the Agua Frey near the back of the pinnacle. 1. 35m (5b) Major corner to bolted anchor on small ledge 2. 15m (5c) Splitter diagonal handcrack to anchor on summit.

An outstanding excursion up the upper third of the massive cliff below Cristo Redentor. One of the classic routes of Rio de Janeiro. Climb of quite varied technique: Dihedral, slabs and holds. Although not technically difficult, the route begins at 550m above sea level with some sections that are quite exposed. Fast parties can climb it in 2 hours.

This is a very runout sport route (where people have broken ankles falling at P5) or so consider this a mixed trad route with the slab parts still being significantly runout.

Climb the southeast face of the mountain, and is ideally climbed in the afternoon shade. Getting to the start of the route: Walk along the train tracks for about 10 minutes to a shack on your left. Walk along the asphalt road four about 5 minutes and you'll come to a curve in the road. The trail starts here. Follow the trail to the cliff. Look up and you'll see a large dihedral and the start of this route.

P2 & P3 are often done in one pitch.

1. 25m (IVsup): A technical dihedral and out L to ledge and up to DBB.

2. 20m (IV): A delicate, exposed traverse out left and up to DBB (or continue up to P3 anchors.

3. 20m (IV): Delicate and exposed slab up then step R to DBB.

4. 25m (IV): Delicate and exposed out right to DBB.

5. 35m (IV): Slab, irregular dihedral, and irregular crack near the plateau at the end of this pitch. Walk along the dirt track a few metres to P6. Nuts and cams come in handy at the beginning. A few people have broken their angles falling low down on top the low angled slab.

6. 25m (IV): Slab with four bolts. Tree belay.

After finishing the route, follow the trail up through the grass and jump over the fence. You'll be right under Christ the Redeemer statue.

Double bolted anchors at all stations. Mostly fixed bolts along the route, but it is advisable to take cams and nuts especially on pitch 3 and/or if you do the variant first pitch (climb the full length of the dihedral).

Primera vía abierta en junio de 1993 Pablo de la Fuente y Damián Benegas Esta en la cara este, tiene algunos clavos viejos y en las placas chapas. Reuniones con chapas con millones. Subir demora aprox. 4 a 5hs, rapeles 3hs.

L1 4º Al final ir a izquierda L2 5º Al final ir a la izquierda L3 6aº Al final ir a la derecha L4 5º Al final ir a la derecha L5 6aº Al final ir a la derecha L6 6aº Al final ir a la derecha L7 4º Al final ir a la derecha L8 3º tránsito por terrazas con pircas hacia la derecha, asegurar cuerda corta.

Equipo cordada de dos: Casco infaltable, agua 2 litros algo para comer y abrigo. Cuerda de 70 metros o dos de 50 metros Estación de relevo x2 (cinta tubular 1.5 o 2m y 3 mosquetones con seguro) Empotradores set hasta el nº4 opcional repetir el Nº2. Cintas largas con mosquetón 6 6 expreses largos (para clavos y chapas) Placa y cordin para el rapel Linterna

Bajada En la cumbre hacia el sur por terrazas con pircas -Primer rapel corto 10m y luego continua hacia la izquierda rodeando un bloque. -Segundo rapel por un techo 20metros a terraza a la izquierda (OJO NO PASARSE) en tal caso más abajo hay un puente de roca con cordin y alguna chapa. Limpiar la zona al bajar de rocas sueltas y cuando se recupera la cuerda mucho cuidado por si cae piedra. Se llega a una primera reunión original para cuerdas cortas y 5 metros más abajo en una repisa otra reunión con anillas nueva mucho más cómoda. -Tercer rapel ya conecta con la reunión de la vía que subimos. -Cuarto rapel ya conecta con la reunión de la vía que subimos, ojo con sacar la cuerda y que se trabe. -Quinto Rapel ya conecta con la reunión de la vía que subimos sin complicaciones.

Up easy crack with decent gear, followed by a couple of steep moves through a small dihedral.

One of the most unique routes in all of Rio de Janeiro, Passagem dos Olhos traverses across a high and vertical section of the mountain face. Its horizontal and aerial nature make the experience of climbing it more challenging than its grade would suggest!

14th route from the left. Starts at a 2m-high block. 14 quickdraws if you feel like clipping every single bolt in the quite over protected pitches.

Scrambly 5.5 until the first bolt for about 6-8 meters. Pretty fun bouldery moves after that. And much easier run out again until the station. Very sandbagged as noted by other ascentionists.

7th routhe from the left. Starts at an arete, and the first bolt is right after it. Mostly easy with a couple of moves at 18. First pitch goes for 50m and it's about a 13. Second pitch is again 50m, a bit harder, at 14/15 but with an 18 section. Third pitch is only about 25m and it's super easy. 4th pitch is again about 25m long, and about a 17. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

The original and most commonly climbed route on la esfinge. One very long day, or two short days climbing. A good ledge facilitates the two day ascent.

This route was originally graded 6c+, though consensus has downgraded it to 6b with an R rating for poor protection on easier ground in some of the upper pitches

This is a long scramble up the east face of Pao de Acucar.

There is a 30m section of vertical 5.7 about half way up the face. It's fairly straight forward, but is technical climbing.

Take some draws and a short rope for the crux.

First 25m is up a nice layback crack, then the rest 60m is face climbing. Although crack has been bolted, it can be done completely with trad gear. 6 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

This is a must for any climber visiting town! The second and third pitches can (should be) linked in a single pitch as well as the sixth and seventh pitches. It is definetely a great 5 pitches route! The fifth (fourth if you link the second and third pitch) is pure trad climb, it is a great pitch!

11th route from the left, about 20m right of Vilma Arnaud. First bolt is about 15m high. First route on this wall, from 1965. Very constant grade. 10 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches.

The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.

1. Pitch 1: 40m 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

2. Pitch 2: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

3. Pitch 3: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

4. Pitch 4: 25m

One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf!

Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt.

Climb left curving crack to corner and easier ground until you tackle the crack at the roof below the anchors.

10th route from the left, about 20 right from Arca de Noé. Grade is very constant, unlike many on this wall. 13 quick draws plus a few slings and biners.

A route from the "North face"[1613256762] that finishes up the "West face" and that is usually used as a continuation of the popular "Via dos Italianos" route on the West face.

This route begins in a squeeze chimney, then moves out onto the north west face of 'Pao de Acucar'. It is bolt protected, but is far from a sport climbing. The style is very characteristic of the area and it is a great route.

After reaching the shoulder between Pao de Acucar and Urca, head towards the north face of the formation. Secundo starts in the obvious dihedral/chimney.

Take 15 draws including several long runners.

Fifth (if you count the variant Novos Horizontes) from the left on north face. First bolt is above a small ledge, a bit higher and to the right of Novos Horizontes. You can reach the summit by linking with Ricardo Prado after the third belay station. There are a few variants along the way so it's easy to mix routes up. The original goes up for 45m to the first DRBs slightly to the left. It then goes up and slightly to the right for another 45m to the second belay station. It then moves up a bit to traverse left to the 3rd stop, about 30m up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra biners.

1 - Diedro clássico. Tem uma chapa no início, mas quase inteira em móvel.

2 - Bem fácil em com 1 ou 2 chapas, mas geralmente sem proteção.

3 - Crux sensacional, e bem protegido. Costure o primeiro grampo depois da parada e dê a segurança por ali.

4 - Travessia perigosa e com algumas chapas mas bem assustadora. Não caia!

5 e 6 - Divertidas e semelhantes em técnica.

7 - Escalaminhada saindo pra direita.

The narrow and exposed northern arete of the pillar. Two pitches.

IV (A0(2)/VIsup) Incrível Variante que se inicia no platô da árvore a direita do inicio da Blackout. Apesar da variante contar com proteções fixas alguns camalots médios até o #3 protegem mais, podendo também ser totalmente feita em móvel com um jogo de camalots médios repetidos. A beta dessa variante é o guia usar algumas longas no início para diminuír o arrasto. Equipamento mínimo necessário: 4 expressas, 4 costuras curtas ( via com proteções fixas) E1/2 sem móveis 1 fita. 1 jogos de camalots até #3 ( #0.75 #1 repetidas) ( Fazendo toda em móvel) E1

Located on the gently-sloping east face of the mountain, Heineken is a great route for first-time and beginner climbers who want to climb to the top of Sugarloaf. Best done in the afternoon. 3 hours to summit

Some bolts in places where you can not place mobile gear . Making a third 6b pitch and connecting with the route "Deja Vu" is possible to make 30 meters rappels down.

Incipient flake cracks on the south west side.

Climb fun trench to blocky overhand section. Chains at end of first pitch at about 20 metres.

Eigth route from the left. A bit run out. Mostly a 14/15. Last pitch is an 18. Finishes at the same ledge as Roda Viva

Localização: Cantagalo - Copacabana ( Rio de Janeiro ) Graduação: 6° VIIa E1 Agarras quebradiças. No segundo crux, antes do diedro que podem ir peças móveis, há um bloco frágil, que pode cair em breve. Cuidado ao ficar na base se houver outra cordada escalando.

Mixed

Open book corner about 10m left of Diedro de Jim with a single bolt down low.