Ascents of Gracias Fina having Beta

To the first anchor.

Good beta from JonJon

High point & then one hung it, #surprised

Despite feeling tired, managed to get halfway through the redpoint crux before blowing off. Took the draws off to head to Siurana tomorrow, will be back for this one!

Got all the beta this time

Linked into the first rest, shitty clip if you're a weakboi

Linked almost into the deadpoint then made some good progress on the upper headwall

Couldn't get the draws on

stick-clip ascent ;D

Otra igual, pegue hace mil con esguince incluido #2go

Warm-up burn

High point, fell off one move from the final rest to the easy end last day with no send booo!

Last ditch effort but was wayyy to tired for the pitch move.

Warm-up play.. Everything felt good!

Did everything right through the first crux. Can't say the same for the red point crux. Grabbed the bread slice, then couldn't move .. Yeow high point!

It was time to give it everything... Screamed my way through the bread slice and got past the crux. I was so nervous, I forgot my beta and only made it 4 more moves... It should have been finished off... brain fart...

With some extra knee bar beta off Lucy, I was able to rest before the crux and after.. pretty good go, worked out some more foot beta and finally went to the top without sitting.

Gave it a burn, fell off before the rest because my hand slipped. Got back on all shaky but managed to get to through 1/3 of the crux...

Got a high point, nearly got to the semi rest flake before the red point crux. Then got from the start of the crux to the last quick draw before peeling hahaha... so close to one sit....

Second day on shit fest! Couldn't pull through the crux... so i changed my beta and was still freaking out at the top because i couldn't relax into the rest.

New beta didn't work so well so changed it back, tweaking the feet and took the fall from the top yeow... see how we go after a rest day...

So today my goal was to link both cruxes and maybe climb to the anchors.. big call considering I sat on pretty much every bolt last time. Matt Pascoe has given me some coaching and has advised that I sit at the first first knee bar rest and then climb gracias fina to the top before clean before attempting any red point burns. So first go sat at the knee bar rest, went for it and managed to link 3/4 of the crux I was super happy. Worked the top section but still felt really reach.

Again sat at the knee bar rest. This time fell off the last move of the crux yeow.. progress... found better beta for the top and worked it into my brain... still have not taken that whipper.. so run out to the top... also found a few more knee bars

Just another pocket fumble. A trend is forming. Pulled on and went o the top. Changed sequence.

What an awesome climb!! So engaging all the way.

Another burn to redeem the ordinary attempts.

1 week ago I had several goes at both cruxes, took a huge whipper, made lots of girly whimpers and got so scared.. Today I got through everything first shot, sitting at every bolt but hey pulled the moves now the decision to commit to this project or not...?

Lazy attempt at getting into the first pocket. 3 sits to the top.

Fumbled the pocket AGAIN. 1 sit to the top.

May have been just a bit tired by now. Pocket fumble shenanigans

To the flake rest before main crux.

A slow burn to workout the main crux better. All sorted using the high thin pinch. Going to be tricky getting the finger slot accurate. That'll be the redpoint crux I think

Such a great climb. No wonder the masses want to get on it! Got to he hard moves on the flash attempt. haha

Matt told Lucy and I to get on this so we did! Ahh the crux was so cool the top slab is so scary when you're pumped silly! Just bolt to bolted to just get a feel of the full on power endurance steepness..

Repeated this awesome climbing for the movie and to improve my endurance. Way easyer to do this second ascent with the knowledge and without over griping the holds

Wanted to onsight it, but I didn't understand the moves at the crux and I fall of at the last move of the first crux...

Climbed up the hole route this time with to short rests at the crux.

Amazing ascent of an awesome route and really good line, cool technical climbing, needs a lot of insurance!

Via muy buena y mitica! Cada vez mejores sensaciones y mas motivado, VENGAAAAA! A MUERTEEEE!

Such a proud, soaring line. You just have to climb it. The crux was really hard for me. [6]