Routes as trad in Sweden

Desperate thin finger crack, slightly overhanging with few footholds. Tough challenge for everyone looking for a trad route. Small nuts and mini-camelots is your best friends...

Slightly overhanging route. As name indicates you need to work your pump to get up here. Uses a mix of nuts and camelots. Top/return bolts only.

Renna/kaminen til venstre for Fellessprekken.

Scrambling og lett rissklatring opp til furu. Egne sikringer.

Kursrute mellom kampesteiner til venstre på den vesle svaveggen lengst til høyre på feltet.

Easy climb. Obvious crack above the block. 1.5m left of the bolt line of 'Höstsaga'.

Almost sport. A nut behind the flake in the start (or clip-stick the first bolt).

Partly bolted.

Sandbag

Starts 2 meters to the left om Amandas lov. See below. Amazing moves over steep terrain fo rits grade. Just go for it, the handholds will arrive where you need them.

(4- Swedish Grade) Steep climbing with good holds on the most prominent crack located 2-3 meters left of the oak tree and the dead tree.

Topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

Thin climbing with poor protection. One old (potentially / probably not safe) bolt at the most difficult part. (Original Swedish grade 6+/7-). The route starts under the bolt high up 2m to the right of Amandas lov.

(6 Swedish Grade) It starts by the oak tree and the dead tree approximately 4 meters to the right of the the prominent crack "Amandas Lov". Start to climb the two very thin cracks (crux) then continue slightly left the easiest way up. At the middle of the climb, you have a bomber mid size nut placement. After that protection, it is difficult to find any protection. Prior to the bomber placement, you find good but small nut placements. Topo description at http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Gritstoneberget

(6+ Swedish Grade) After a small ledge, half way up the route, place the bomber nut and step right, then straight up for 5-6 meters with one very thin move.

(4+/5- Swedish Grade) Starts under the prominent horizontal crack 2.5 meters up. The first crux is to reach this "thank god" grip. Continue up towards a small flake. Small protection placements under the flake. Thereafter, move right towards a crack, then up and move left again and up on good holds.

Bolt replaced 2022.

Positioned between No Exit and Stoppa in produkter. Follow the two old pitons. You can put in protection 3 meters above the ground and just below the first piton. Otherwise you have to trust the old pitons.

The start is a balancing act as well as unprotected the first 5 meters. Peanut #5 is an excellent choice. Very well protected thereafter.