Cabane de Saleinaz Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

mike

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1. Cabane de Saleinaz / Cabane de Saleina 15 in Crag
- 1.1. Petit Clocher des Planereuses 4 in Crag
- 1.2. Grand Clocher des Planereuses 2 in Crag
- 1.3. Promotoire Jean Ruedin 2 in Cliff
- 1.4. D'charges / École d'escalade de la cabane Saleinaz 5 in Cliff
- 1.5. Grande Pointe des Planereuses - Grand Gendarme de l'arête N 2 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Cabane de Saleinaz 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.978941, 7.079511

1.1. Petit Clocher des Planereuses 4 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 45.979382, 7.079084

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Mieux vaut trad que jamais coinceurs et friends 0.3 à 3 (2x 0.5 à 1).	6c+	Trad 200m, 7
2	Voie du soleil Camalots 0.3-1, 30m doubles or 50m single. Rappel via seperate rappel anchors.	5c	Mixed trad 150m, 7, 5
3	Directe Coinceurs et friends (0.3 à 2) Beaucoup de pistons en place.	6a	Trad 130m, 4
4	Voie sans nom	5c	Trad 6

1.2. Grand Clocher des Planereuses 2 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Objetif Bitard 6b obl. See topo in the hut. Crux can be aided with Camalot 0.75. Descent: abseils along the route (max. 36m). FA: Jul 2017	6c	Sport 8
2		La fée plane heureuse 6a obl. Camalots 0.5-2 may be useful. Descent: Rappel along the route. Set: Mazal Chevallier, Martin Luther, Ali Chevallier, Sylvie Schoni & Raoul Känzig, 2003	6b	Sport 210m, 8

Route

Grade

Style

Selected ascents

Objetif Bitard

6b obl. See topo in the hut.

Crux can be aided with Camalot 0.75.

Descent: abseils along the route (max. 36m).

FA: Jul 2017

Sport 8

La fée plane heureuse

6a obl. Camalots 0.5-2 may be useful.

Descent: Rappel along the route.

Set: Mazal Chevallier, Martin Luther, Ali Chevallier, Sylvie Schoni & Raoul Känzig, 2003

Sport 210m, 8

1.3. Promotoire Jean Ruedin 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		L'Escalier du paradis FA: Mazal Chevallier, Martin Luther & Aaron Richiger, 2003	5c	Sport 65m, 2
2		Il Mosaico FA: Mazal Chevallier, Martin Luther & Aaron Richiger, 2003	6a+	Sport 65m, 2

1.4. D'charges 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Mème Palà	5b	Sport 43m, 2
2	A.Q.	5a	Sport 43m, 2
3	K'siopée	6a	Sport 35m, 2
4	Merci	6a+	Sport 20m
5	Tête-à-Noce	3b+	Sport 25m, 2

1.5. Grande Pointe des Planereuses - Grand Gendarme de l'arête N 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Voie de Neuch Slings and cams. FA: Josef Sola, 22 Jun 2021	{UIAA} 4+	Trad
2		Voie de la Tchaux Corner, protectable with cams. FA: Josef Sola, 22 Jun 2021	{UIAA} 3+	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
3+	Voie de la Tchaux	Trad	1.5. Grande Pointe des Planereuses - Grand Gendarme de l'arête N
3b+	Tête-à-Noce	Sport 25m, 2	1.4. D'charges
4+	Voie de Neuch	Trad	1.5. Grande Pointe des Planereuses - Grand Gendarme de l'arête N
5a	A.Q.	Sport 43m, 2	1.4. D'charges
5b	Mème Palà	Sport 43m, 2	1.4. D'charges
5c	Voie du soleil	Mixed trad 150m, 7, 5	1.1. Petit Clocher des Planereuses
	Voie sans nom	Trad 6	1.1. Petit Clocher des Planereuses
	L'Escalier du paradis	Sport 65m, 2	1.3. Promotoire Jean Ruedin
6a	Directe	Trad 130m, 4	1.1. Petit Clocher des Planereuses
	K'siopée	Sport 35m, 2	1.4. D'charges
6a+	Il Mosaico	Sport 65m, 2	1.3. Promotoire Jean Ruedin
	Merci	Sport 20m	1.4. D'charges
6b	La fée plane heureuse	Sport 210m, 8	1.2. Grand Clocher des Planereuses
6c	Objetif Bitard	Sport 8	1.2. Grand Clocher des Planereuses
6c+	Mieux vaut trad que jamais	Trad 200m, 7	1.1. Petit Clocher des Planereuses

Cabane de Saleinaz Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Cabane de Saleinaz 15 routes in Crag

summary

approach

where to stay