Ascents in Spazzacaldeira

This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.

Apart from route confusion which seems to afflict many people who start on Lascimili and end up on this, Pitches 3 and 4 were great. The bolting is weird, near good trad placements then run out. Route deserves more traffic. Best to walk off. The connecting cord at anchors is very tatty and needs replacing-Especially getting to top of pitch 3 where it appears some people aid on the long bit of rope hanging down. A single set of cams 0.3 to #2 helpful.

Coole Linie, aber weit schlechter abgesichert als im SAC GR Führer angegeben

Tourenbericht: https://klettertagebuch.wordpress.com/2023/07/09/spazzacaldeira-nuova-via-per-claudia-6b/

Tourenbericht: https://klettertagebuch.wordpress.com/2023/07/07/spazzacaldeira-via-felici-6a-und-nigg-variante-6a/

Tourenbericht: https://klettertagebuch.wordpress.com/2023/07/07/spazzacaldeira-via-felici-6a-und-nigg-variante-6a/

Skipped Fiamma (15th pitch) not to queue up and be on time for the last funicular

Really nice pitches to the NE ridge. No additional gear necessary. Plaisir.

The climbing itself is not super good. The view instead is worth it.

Fantastic. The view, the ridge, the superb granite.

WOW WOW WOW. The exposure is surreal.

An absolute joy! Last section to the anchor is a tad engaged (I think you end up 4 to 5 metres above last bolt) but you kind of feel safe with the hands on the ledge / left side) — with Eveline K.

Very nice ascent./ A classic. First 5a slab is a bit engaged above 2nd bolt. But feels OK as long as belayer is ready to run down a little. Extra cams (C4 size 1), Z4 (0.75, 0.5, some 0.3 as well) can be useful. IMPORTANT: especially important because the 4b pitch is barely secured (I think there is only 1 bolt for 30 m). Connection to Fiamma possible HOWEVER not secured. So cams and some nuts might be useful (in this case you need approx 5 to 10 depending on how comfortable you are + anchor setting equipment) - having a couple of cams above 1 size would have been useful there (didn't have any)). But easy terrain in 3 / 4 grade. The only thing not so nice is the amount of rope drag you will get! Definitely worth it though!

Tourenbericht: https://klettertagebuch.wordpress.com/2023/07/07/spazzacaldeira-via-felici-6a-und-nigg-variante-6a/