Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Ogwen Valley Area | |||||||
Idwal Slabs and Walls | |||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★ (Don't use a) Piton Blade | ||||||
Got lost, fell and got injured badly. Instead of veering left, kept going straight up. Had to abandon.
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Fri 3rd Jun 2022 - Portland | |||||||
The Cuttings Main Cliff | |||||||
7a ~7a+ | ★★ The Holy Hand Grenade | ||||||
Finally able to unlock the crux moves in TR, nails though. Perhaps next trip?
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6b | ★★ European Flavour | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Finally took my revenge from the whipper 2 year ago and sent it. The initial boulder problem is getting more and more polished, perhaps V3/V3+? Retroflash
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Fri 3rd Jun 2022 - Pembroke | |||||||
Pembroke South Lydstep Area Mother Carey's Kitchen | |||||||
HVS HVS 4c | ★★ Inner Space - with jon_gill1 | 39m | |||||
Absolutely stunning, mind-blowing route.
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Fri 3rd Jun 2022 - Froggatt Edge | |||||||
Chequers Buttress Area | |||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ Chequers Buttress | 14m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Really enjoyable. Delicate balanced moves!
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Fri 3rd Jun 2022 - Froggatt Edge | |||||||
Sunset Slab Area | |||||||
HVS 4c | ★★★ Sunset Slab | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Easy but devoid of gear
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Fri 3rd Jun 2022 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★ Jacob's Ladder | 11m | |||||
Did try the start as a boulder first so debatable flash
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VD | The Pothole | 13m | |||||
Combined with Jam pot (f5+ boulder) into a mantle for a harder start
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Portland | |||||||
Cheyne Weares Neddyfields Main Cliff | |||||||
6a | ★ Puppet Show of Memory | ||||||
Testing my calf, test passed
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Black slab | |||||||
HS 4b HS 4b | ★★ April Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My first lead on Peaks grit
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular BAW's Crawl | |||||||
HVS 5a | ★★ B.A.W.'S Crawl | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The strangest climb I have ever done. Pull hard and get a heel high, shuffle your whole body in using an undercling, rotate 180 degrees in a horizontal squeeze, crawl out and finish up the face!
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Almscliff | |||||||
Almscliff High Man | |||||||
VS 4c VS 4c | ★ Zig Zag Direct | 11m | |||||
Crux jug was full of water, ended up taking
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Wed 1st Jun 2022 - Peak District Limestone | |||||||
Deep Rake | |||||||
7b | My Body is a Stemple - with rew | 16m | |||||
Hmm, not sure how to get into the big left hand flake/crack. Bouldery to the flake, then sustained to finish. Dogged to get the draws on, then one TR attempt.
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Sun 29th May 2022 - Wharncliffe Crag | |||||||
Prow Rock | |||||||
D | ★ Inside Route - with Hattie | 8m | |||||
Downclimb
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Sun 29th May 2022 - North East Outcrops & Angus | |||||||
Angus Legaston Quarry Forbidden Buttress | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Spandex Ballet | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Finally went today on first go after trying it 4-5 times the previous summer. At 5'6, the crux feels very low percentage. Good moves throughout.
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Llanberis Valley Area | |||||||
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu West Buttress | |||||||
HVS 5a | ★★ Great - Bow Combination | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Led all 5 pitches. P1 traverse is pretty scary (1st couple of moves). P3 traverse is damn scary, did it low (hard way). The route is pretty intense and exposed (all but 1 belay stations are hanging) not recommended for the faint-hearted. Thanks god we had good weather, always in the shade though, got really cold.
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Ban-y-Gor | |||||||
Twin Overhanging Bays | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Avidya | 12m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
felt nails for 6b+...2nd try
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6b+ | ★ Gordonzola | 11m | ★ Good | ||||
shame the good climbing doesn't last long...
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Burbage Valley | |||||||
Burbage North Knight's Move | |||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | Windjammer - with rew | 10m | |||||
Didn't fancy the traverse!
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Gower Peninsula | |||||||
Foxhole | |||||||
4c | Basil Brush - with Breanna Slattery | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Actually quite good
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7b | ★★ Pioneers of the Hypnotic Groove - with Breanna Slattery | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beyond me, full body pump
|
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6a+ | ★ Unholy Alliance - with Breanna Slattery | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Hard for the grade
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7a+ 7a | ★★★ Joy de Viva - with Breanna Slattery | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Steep and pumpy, just amazing climbing.
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6c+ | ★★ Goose In Lucy - with Breanna Slattery | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough bouldery start, a hold now missing making harder.
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Burbage Valley | |||||||
Burbage North Knight's Move | |||||||
HVS 5b HVS 5b | ★ The Rainmaker - with rew | 10m | |||||
Bailed out of doing Windjammer and finished up this instead.
|
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Sat 28th May 2022 - Burbage Valley | |||||||
Burbage North Ash Tree Wall | |||||||
E2 5c | Artificial Stimulant - with rew | 12m | |||||
Decided I didn't need to do this on lead, given the lack of protection through the crux moves.
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Fri 27th May 2022 - Shropshire | |||||||
Llanymynech Quarry Grid Iron Wall | |||||||
6c+ | Humpty Dumpty — 2 attempts | 35m | |||||
Fell again in the very last move
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Fri 27th May 2022 - Pembroke | |||||||
Range East Saint Govan's Head | |||||||
E2 5c E2 5c | ★★★ Deranged - with Breanna Slattery | 36m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the most exhilarating routes I’ve ever done mental
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E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ The Arrow - with Breanna Slattery | 39m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So good and well protected
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Fri 27th May 2022 - Rivelin Edge | |||||||
Plague | |||||||
VD | Ebenezer's Staircase - with h | 6m | |||||
With direct start at 5b
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Tue 24th May 2022 - Llanberis Valley Area | |||||||
Llanberis Pass Wavelength Boulders Pieshop | |||||||
6C+ | ★★ Gettin' the Chop | ||||||
Took two attempts as my fingers were ice cold - much easier on second attempt
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6C | ★ Chip Shop Slapper | ||||||
3 move wonder, top out is the crux
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7B | ★★ Beef Growler | ||||||
Tricky start and some weird moves to get out to the sloper rail - need to work on keeping the heel on start hold
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Tue 24th May 2022 - Llanberis Valley Area | |||||||
Llanberis Pass Wavelength Boulders Wavelength | |||||||
7A | ★★★ King of Drunks | 4m | |||||
Took a few attempts to trust the throw to the hidden pocket - burly first move
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6B+ | ★★★ Wavelength Groove | ||||||
Very techy, nice double Gaston position once you rock over
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Peak District Limestone | |||||||
Masson Lees Overhanging Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Eye, Eye | 20m | |||||
The 4th bolt is slightly loose.
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Gower Peninsula | |||||||
Rhossili Beach Shipwreck Cove | |||||||
6a+ | Make a splash - with Breanna Slattery | 18m | Don't Bother | ||||
Ok but wouldn’t recommend
|
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6b | ★★ John’s Route - with Breanna Slattery | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stick left of the cave to avoid the bird poo. Would be a classic if not for the poo.
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6a+ | ★ First Handout - with Breanna Slattery | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Definitely the better of the two 6a+ climbs here
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6c | ★★ Par 3 - with Breanna Slattery | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Amazing climbing, bit of sand in one spot but quite clean.
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Sun 22nd May 2022 - Gower Peninsula | |||||||
Rhossili Beach Black Wall | |||||||
4c | ★ Whittle Thieving Lankers - with Breanna Slattery | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Enjoyable warmup
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Sun 22nd May 2022 - Staffordshire | |||||||
The Roaches The Roaches Bouldering Upper Tier Upper Tier Boulders | |||||||
6C+ | ★ Pink Wall Eliminate - with rew | ||||||
Starting left sidepull/sloper is pretty rubbish. Probably requires much cooler conditions for friction!
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Shropshire | |||||||
Llanymynech Quarry Grid Iron Wall | |||||||
6c+ | Humpty Dumpty | 35m | |||||
really tricky end, sensational route
|
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7a | Jack the Smuggler | 17m | |||||
Small sweaty crimps, quite at the span limit for a short climber. Hated it, didn't bother to finish it.
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Fri 20th May 2022 - Borrowdale | |||||||
Borrowdale East Shepherd's Crag Chamonix Area | |||||||
VD |
★★★ Little Chamonix
1
VD
20m
2
10
3
45
| 75m | |||||
With Jim Evans.
Definitely NOT with roller-skates and boxing gloves.
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Fri 20th May 2022 - Borrowdale | |||||||
Borrowdale East Shepherd's Crag Brown Crag & Brown Slabs | |||||||
D | ★★★ Brown Slabs Arete | 44m | |||||
Lead by Jim Evans
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VD | ★★ Brown Slabs Direct - with Katie Bowers | 38m | |||||
With Jim Evans
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Fri 20th May 2022 - Langdale | |||||||
Langdale Pikes Gimmer Crag South East Face | |||||||
S VS | ★★★ Bracket and Slab Climb - with Katie Bowers | 90m | |||||
P1&2 then traverse to West Face.
Lead by Jim Evans
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Fri 20th May 2022 - Langdale | |||||||
Langdale Pikes Gimmer Crag West Face | |||||||
VD | ★★★ Oliverson's Variation and Lyon's Crawl - with Katie Bowers | 56m | |||||
Lead by Jim Evans
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Tue 17th May 2022 - Langdale | |||||||
Langdale Pikes Raven Crag Middlefell Buttress | |||||||
D | ★★★ Middlefell Buttress - with Katie Bowers | 75m | |||||
Lead by Jim Evans.
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Sat 14th May 2022 - Peak District Limestone | |||||||
Water-cum-Jolly The Cornice | |||||||
7a+ | Incapacity Benefit - with Sam W, Tom R, Olly H | ||||||
1st RP
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Fri 13th May 2022 - The Cairngorms | |||||||
Pass of Ballater Western Section | |||||||
E2 6a Easy | ★★ High Steppa | 8m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Easy to fall before the gear. The crux is protected, however it's easy to fall before the gear. Actually quite descent moves. Techy E2.
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Thu 12th May 2022 - Peak District Limestone | |||||||
Colehill Quarry Blue Sky Walls | |||||||
5+ | ★★ The Evolution of Micradia | 18m | |||||
Loose rock on the left of the route.
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Thu 12th May 2022 - Peak District Limestone | |||||||
Colehill Quarry Poser Walls | |||||||
5 | Posing till the End | 18m | |||||
The start is stiff for the grade. Unless you are very tall.
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Sat 7th May 2022 - Cardiff and Newport crags | |||||||
Tirpentwys Main Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Supertramp | ||||||
2nd attempt
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Sat 7th May 2022 - Wintour's Leap | |||||||
HS 4b HS 4b | ★★ Left Hand Route | ★★ Very Good | |||||
alt leads with lydia
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★★ Nibelheim | ★★ Very Good | |||||
alt leads with lydia - linked p1 and p2
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HS 4b | Right Hand Route | 86m | Average | ||||
last pitch only after climbing left hand route
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Mon 2nd May 2022 - Wyndcliff Quarry | |||||||
Upper Cliff | |||||||
7b | ★★ House of magic | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
after three sessions - good fight!
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Thu 28th Apr 2022 - Curbar Edge | |||||||
Little Quarry | |||||||
5C ~5C | Seams Simple Enough | 3m | |||||
5C on actual guidebook
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Avon Gorge | |||||||
Avon Main Area Morning Slab | |||||||
E2 5b |
★ Mike's Mistake
1
35m
2
18m
| 53m | |||||
Lead the piss easy P2. P1 must be nails to lead (thanks Rhys), pretty run out, not much gear, need good foot work
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Avon Gorge | |||||||
Avon Main Area Main Area Main Wall Left | |||||||
E1 5b | ★★ Zombogies | 30m | |||||
Felt quite sketchy as 2nd, don't wanna imagine leading it. No gear when it goes rightwards, Rhys had to go slightly off route to the left to get a piton
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Curbar Edge | |||||||
Curbar Field Boulders Trackside Boulder | |||||||
5 | Bore-hole Traverse - with rew | ||||||
Did the three bore-hole climbs for the first time back in July 2018. Finally logging them.
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Curbar Edge | |||||||
Curbar Field Boulders The Ultimate Gritstone Experience | |||||||
6C | The Ultimate Gritstone Experience - with rew | ||||||
Making progress, got a few moves into the stand.
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders The Hourglass | |||||||
5C | ★ Slopey Pokey - with jc | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Friction times
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders Bullworker and Crozzle Block | |||||||
5B | ★ Crozzle Slab | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice moves but soooo sharp
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders The Business Boulder | |||||||
4B 3C | ★ Nobody's Business - with jc | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Relaxed. Nice
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V1 5B | ★★ Slot Standup - with jc | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Really enjoyed this
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders The Pebble | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pebble Flakes - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice flowy moves
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6A | ★★★ Pebble Arete - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | |||||
Oooo what a joy. Like crescent arete but a bit less high, scary, and a better landing. The final move off a bad smear was my crux. Exciting
Tom Bes
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4 | ★★ Pebble Face - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 5m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool first move then a bit plain
|
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders The Lone Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ The Lone Arete - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Loved it. Beautiful flowing rock
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V2 | ★★ The Lone Slab - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | ★ Good | |||||
Much harder than lone scoop and less of a quality line maybe?
|
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6B | ★★ Steep Side (Sit Start) - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice easy moves
|
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V2 | ★★ Lone Scoop - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Loved this a lot. Very satisfying slap for the top and unbelievable how much friction you can get of the basically flat vertical smears!
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders Mental Block | |||||||
4B | ★ Scoops Arete - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | |||||
Another fun high ish introduction to stanage bouldering
|
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4C | ★★ Scoops Slab - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great high slabbing
|
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4C | Scoops Groove - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Move into a high cramped position under the lip was a bit of spice. Exciting
|
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Plantation Boulders Crescent Arete Area | |||||||
5C | ★★★ Crescent Arete | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
got higher and higher into the crux but just couldnt commit to matching on the arete on those terrible smears. too high, too slopey a landing for me. first shutdown of the trip, but not the last
|
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Plantation Unconquerables to Namenlos Area The Unconquerables | |||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ The Left Unconquerable - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 17m | |||||
in my effort to understand british grading i went to a climbing gym. onsighted multiple 6c+ on lead. oh great, i should be ok to do an e1 classic then. of course not. took 20 million takes on this route, inching up by placing a piece of gear every 2 feet or so on the crux where the jams run out and the layback starts. first half was great jamming however. After floundering up for 45mins, Old mate stanage cave seconded up clean in about 10 seconds. which gave him thje confidence to attempt a lead on quietus.
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★★ The Right Unconquerable - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 17m | |||||
Took one rest after floundering around on the holdless topout mantle. should of just gone a foot to the left and would of got it clean. alas. quite a sustained route. Was very cool to see an old school stone chock buried in the crack about two thirds of the way up. some climbing history on a historic route.
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Plantation Wall End Slab | |||||||
VS 5a VS 5a | ★★★ Wall End Slab - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
definitely a spicy number for the grade. only found 3 places for gear the whole route. And the last piece was a #1 cam almost completely filling a vital pocket that provide the only foothold to reach the arete. Was able to push it to the side and sneak a toe in. i guess this is grit stone! fairly insecure all the way. a great last climb of the trip when i had shredded tips but wanted one last hurrah.
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage North High Neb High Neb Buttress | |||||||
VS 4c VS 4c | ★★ Inaccessible Crack - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 16m | |||||
the final big layback moves were great. felt fairly burly
|
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E2 5c E2 5c | ★★★ Quietus - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 14m | |||||
jon the cowboy cave decided to make this his first every trad lead after seconding some e1's without difficulty. set up an anchor for him at the top, and off he went. He immediately got into groundfall territory by doing a massive run out above his first peice until I told him to place something. Then I told him to back it up cause if it pops he is dead. Then he set off again, climbed past another placement opportunity on a big run out into the roof. I suggested he might want to place another piece, but he was too pumped to place anything and couldn't reverse the move into the roof he had just done. So he took his first Trad whip. Thankfully the pieces held fine. But he had left a cam half way up the roof so we had some fun getting it out. Then he bailed onto an easier route out right. What a ride. He had a good time though. so we did what i imagine is a fairly popular variation; the start of quietus into Norse corner climb.
|
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VS 4c VS 4c | ★★★ High Neb Buttress - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
greeeeaaat trad slabbing. worth the long walk
|
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HS 5a HS 5a | ★★ Tango Buttress - with jon 'ole mate stan age' cave | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A bit more technical and run out than high neb. very good
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Curbar Edge | |||||||
Curbar Field Boulders The Ultimate Gritstone Experience | |||||||
6B+ | The Ultimate Gritstone Experience Stand - with rew | ||||||
Fridge hugging goodness. Top-out was definitely tricky, might have used an alpine knee... now to work out the sit start!
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Curbar Edge | |||||||
Little Quarry | |||||||
5+ | Hob Nob Wall - with rew | ||||||
Felt like more than 5+ but could be due to the reachy start, felt like I had to pull up on some bad crimps to rearrange my feet. Would be easier with more height?
|
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4 | Chimney Crack - with rew | ||||||
The problem ate some of my jacket. I was unable to avenge the loss.
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Portland | |||||||
Wallsend Wallsend South Trad Free World | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ The Jewel of the Isle - with Aine C, Morgan L, Tom R, Olly H | 30m | |||||
Retro flash
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Gower Peninsula | |||||||
Rhossili Beach Black Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Black Adder — 3 attempts | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun route, nails bouldery crux, needs plenty of power. Usually quite wet up to mid route. Essential to work the crux, fell several times on red point, hopefully next time. Barnacles in the 1st third makes it miss the 3 stars (lost my fingertips)
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Manchester Buttress | |||||||
HS 4b | ★★ Manchester Buttress | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Followed sam after his first lead
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Stanage | |||||||
Stanage Popular Flying Buttress | |||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
incredible route - maybe the best trad climb I've done. Second try after getting too pumped placing gear first time
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - North East Outcrops & Angus | |||||||
Angus Kirrie Hill | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Buffer Overflow - with Lina | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Had beta from doing all other routes independently prior. Soft 7a+. Not a natural route.
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Curbar Edge | |||||||
Curbar Field Boulders The Ultimate Gritstone Experience | |||||||
6C | The Ultimate Gritstone Experience - with rew | ||||||
Trying to do it from a stand (at around 6B/6B+) and fell off trying to top out three times! Looking at my grazed hands, arms and knees, I think I now know what they mean by "The Ultimate Gritstone Experience"! 😅
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Curbar Edge | |||||||
Curbar Field Boulders Ben's Wall | |||||||
6A | Pebble Wall | ||||||
Bailed off near the top, because it got a little too high for my liking. I think it would have been ok, but scary!
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Portland | |||||||
Battleship Battleship Back Cliff The Back Cliff | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Buoys will be Buoys - with Tom R, Olly H | ||||||
Retro flash
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Gower Peninsula | |||||||
Third Sister Area Third Sister | |||||||
6b | ★★ Fiesta — 2 attempts | ||||||
No time for a lead attempt. Hard/spicy 1st moves but really interesting and enjoyable route all in all. Missed a jug at the end and screwed the onsight. Totally agree with the 2 stars
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Southeast Wall | 18m | |||||
Nice route but overrated the top 50 from my point of view
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Gower Peninsula | |||||||
Rhossili Beach | |||||||
4b | Schengen | ||||||
Cleaning the route
|