Routes in England for selected grade

Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish.

Like its near neighbour, there is lots of entertainment to be had on this route including some tough but avoidable moves on the third pitch and a fine arete on the fourth. Start at a corner 5m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

1. 10m. Climb the slightly earthy corner to ledges (on The Easy Way Down) and belay at a tree.

2. 18m. Just to the right is a short rectangular section of rock, above which is a wide crack. Gain the wall right of the crack and climb it boldly to a ledge above the wide crack. Head up right of a tree to a corner and take this to a huge flat ledge. Walk right to belay at a 3m well-defined hand-crack.

3. 4a, 10m. Nip up the hand-crack and then move over to below a short well-scratched finger-crack. Climb the crack - hard - and then easy ground to belay below a short slab just right of a tree.

4. 18m. Climb the short slab and move up to under the blocky arete of the buttress above. The arete, started on its right-hand side, is excellent. Belay on good ledges above.

5. 12m. The crack-line up the final buttress gives a fine finish. Belay at the very top of the crag on flat ledges.

The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up.

The Severe finish to the 'Direct Route' on the third pitch. Climb the steep wall behind the belay for 15m.

A well-travelled line up the slab and corner in the centre of Evening Wall. Start at the left side of the slab where it abuts a steep wall. Make a bouldery move over the low overhang to get established on the slab. Climb the polished slab, with a move right to runners in a thin horizontal crack halfway. Gain a ledge at the base of the steeper upper corner. Follow the corner to an exit on the left. A variation finish up the wall and overhang right of the final corner is also worthwhile.

Start to the right of the red wall. P1)Climb the ramp up to the rock anchor and a borehole with two pegs. P2) climb the borehole and follow the crack and corner right wards. Go left at the top and abseil from the tree.

Bridge anxiously up above the holly until a difficult step can be made right to a wide crack. Follow this to the top.

Crack School No. 3 in BMC Definitive Guide