Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||
{FR} 3+ | Problem 4 | Staffordshire | |||
{FR} 3+ | ★★ Lego Man | 15m | Other Avon Crags | ||
{FB} 3+ | Ledgy Arête | Staffordshire | |||
Trad | |||||
S UKT:4a | ★ Suprising Conclusion
An airy route, initially straightforward, but increasingly challenging as it gains height. A good route at this grade, which is poorly represented in the Avon Gorge, and ideal for a Severe leader looking to improve their all-round skills. The rock is good, and the lower section of the route well protected. Start by abseiling from the tree at the top of Limbic Dystrophy to the capacious well-protected mid-way belay ledge of that route. From the belay ledge easily up the rightward-trending open groove to ledges, then follow the continuation groove with more interest and exposure until forced left onto narrow ledges. After arranging protection ascend the increasingly exposed and delicate right-trending continuation groove to the top. Belay at the tree. | 30m | Avon Gorge | ||
S UKT:4a | Doddle | 6m | Higgar Tor | ||
HS UKT:4a | Flying Rabbit Groove
| 20m | Attermire Scar | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Burgess's Variation
| 17m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | Layback Crack
| 10m | Burbage Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | Back in Kansas
| 10m | Fairy Caves Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | Liam Neeson
| Other Avon Crags | |||
HS UKT:4a | Sextant | 20m | Crowden Great Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | Sliding Chimney
| 12m | Kinder | ||
S UKT:4a | Silly Arête
| 10m | Chew Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | Deceptive Crack | 9m | Agden Rocher | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ K Buttress Crack | 6m | Bamford Edge | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★ Amphitheatre Crack
| 8m | Curbar Edge | ||
HVD UKT:4a | Wide Crack | Higgar Tor | |||
S UKT:4a | Great Chimney Crack | 10m | Wharncliffe Crag | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ The Niche | 12m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
S UKT:4a | Split Slab Crack | 12m | Burbage Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | Curving Crack | 15m | Swanage | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★ B Crack
| 9m | Stanage | ||
HS UKT:4a | Various Obscenities Directed at Margaret Thatcher | 12m | Nab End | ||
S UKT:4a | Let's be Blunt | Coombes Rocks | |||
HS UKT:4a | Saint Paddy | 10m | Tintwistle Knarr | ||
HS UKT:4a | Moyer's Crack
| 14m | Kinder | ||
S UKT:4a | The Weatherman | Granitethorpe Quarry | |||
HS UKT:4a | The Camel
| 30m | The Dewerstone | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ The Bow
| 14m | Birchen Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | Green-un | 25m | Avon Gorge | ||
S UKT:4a | Walkover | 6m | Higgar Tor | ||
S UKT:4a | The Sword
| 13m | Attermire Scar | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Jitterbug Buttress
| 12m | Stanage | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★★ Lime Juice Chimney
| 12m | Burbage Valley | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Little Steve's Mersey Tunnel Affair
| 20m | Fairy Caves Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Uphill Racist Scum
| Other Avon Crags | |||
S UKT:4a | Silly Arête | North York Moors | |||
HS UKT:4a | The Tabasco Twins | 22m | Crowden Great Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | Razor Crack
| 12m | Kinder | ||
S UKT:4a | The Jester
| 12m | Chew Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | Little John | Agden Rocher | |||
S UKT:4a | Hanging Crack | 6m | Bamford Edge | ||
HVD UKT:4a | ★ Dog-leg Crack
| 6m | Curbar Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Remus | 8m | Wharncliffe Crag | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Slanting Crack | 6m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Left Twin Crack | 8m | Burbage Valley | ||
HS UKT:4a | Garden Fence
FA: 2004 | 14m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | Eden Arete
| 6m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | Firefrost | Standedge Quarry | |||
S UKT:4a | Easy | Coombes Rocks | |||
HS UKT:4a | Dublin Cracks | 21m | Tintwistle Knarr | ||
HS UKT:4a | Pockets Wall
| Kinder | |||
S UKT:4a | Straight Up | Granitethorpe Quarry | |||
S UKT:4a | ★ Caesar's Nose
| 8m | The Dewerstone | ||
VD UKT:4a | Trafalgar Crack
FA: Eric Byne (early 1930s) | 14m | Birchen Edge | ||
HS UKT:4a | The Hulk
| 11m | Peak District Limestone | ||
VS UKT:4a | Nardleflue Wall | 25m | Avon Gorge | ||
VD UKT:4a | Piece of Cake | 6m | Higgar Tor | ||
HS UKT:4a | Poacher
| 13m | Attermire Scar | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Wedge Gully
S if lead over the capping block. VD if lead under and through the hole. Nice little route for those who like chimneys and bridging a lot. | 12m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | Last Crack
| 10m | Burbage Valley | ||
HS UKT:4a | The Socialist
| 45m | Fairy Caves Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | The Lesser of Two Weevils
| Other Avon Crags | |||
S UKT:4a | Erica Arete | 5m | North York Moors | ||
S UKT:4a | Strict Adheasion | 12m | Crowden Great Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | Banjo Crack
| 6m | Kinder | ||
S UKT:4a | Ultima Ratio
| 20m | Chew Valley | ||
S UKT:4a | Mollie's Climb | 9m | Agden Rocher | ||
HS UKT:4a | Delilah | 8m | Bamford Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | Overtaking on the Outside
| 8m | Curbar Edge | ||
VD UKT:4a | ★★ Bottle Buttress
Nice route with meandering traverses. | 80m, 4 | Wintour's Leap | ||
HS UKT:4a | Fly Wall | 8m | Wharncliffe Crag | ||
S UKT:4a | ★★★ The Flywalk | 10m | Whaley Bridge Area | ||
MS UKT:4a | ★ Right Twin Crack | 8m | Burbage Valley | ||
HVD UKT:4a | Fall Guy
| 5m | Stanage | ||
HVD UKT:4a | Vulgaris
| 10m | Stanage | ||
S UKT:4a | The Flake of the Floating Light | Standedge Quarry | |||
HVD UKT:4a | Three Bit Slab | 9m | Lower Shelf Stones | ||
S UKT:4a | Straight Crack | 23m | Millstone Buttress to Highstone Rocks | ||
HS UKT:4a | Charity
| 10m | Kinder | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Windowsill
| The Dewerstone | |||
S UKT:4a | Bell Bottom Arete
| 4m | Birchen Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | So-So
| Peak District Limestone | |||
HS UKT:4a | At Your Own Risk
A long diagonal line leading from the base of Giant’s Cave Buttress to the top of Liverbird Buttress. An esoteric route with sections of climbing, interspersed with scrambling and more vegetated ground. Not the highest quality climbing, but an interesting mountaineering type adventure if you don’t mind a little scrub bashing... Go through the gate from the road and take the path on the right, as if heading for Giant’s Cave Buttress. Start where a toe of rock pokes forward from the wall in a little buttress. This is the first obvious clean bit of rock on the path, around 5m along. P1 Climb directly up the little slabby buttress of rock with sparse gear (4a). Continue in the same line on easier ground to belay from several small trees. 20m P2 Move left for a couple of metres into a slabby sort of vague gulley line. Climb this in a diagonal up and left, runners in cracks on the right. Continue easily up more vegetated ground in the same direction, towards a little easy angled buttress. Scramble up this on a narrow area of rock. Walk across the top of the Buttress and go up the easily angled Lizard Slab for a few metres to nut, spike and small tree belay near the top right corner. 40m P3 The objective is a tall tree, seen directly above. To the left of Lizard Slab is a steeper slab, Crumbling Slab, the right side of its base guarded by brambles. Traverse left for a few metres under the brambles to the left side of Crumbling Slab. Climb the slab using cracks and the sharp left hand arete (Crumbling Arete), 4a. Move off the slab onto the arete where it flattens, taking care as the rock here is especially loose. Walk along the top of Crumbling Arete to a rock tower, Pigeon Tower. Climb the tower enjoyably on mostly good large holds but with no convincing gear. Continue up the same line more straightforwardly, over a smaller easier angled outcrop. Walk left for a few metres to belay from a cluster of trees. 40m P4 Walk left past brambles (causing inevitable rope drag), keeping close to the cliff edge to stay on rock. Clamber up a muddy slope to reach some rock (for hands, at least) and runners. Carefully traverse left, then slightly downwards on dirt ledges to reach a cracked rocky block (runner). Continue to keep left close to the cliff edge to stay on rock, on a slightly rising diagonal, to reach an obvious big ramp. Scramble up the ramp (runners in cracks in the wall on the right) to reach plentiful nut belays in the wall near the top of the ramp. 40m P5 Continue easily to the top of the ramp, until it is simple to escape up and rightwards. Clamber up a short steeper vegetated slope to reach the railings at the top. 15m | 160m, 5 | Avon Gorge | ||
HVD UKT:4a | Canyon Climb | 6m | Higgar Tor | ||
HS UKT:4a | Toad Crack
| 20m | Attermire Scar | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★★ Right Hand Trinity
The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up. | 13m | Stanage | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Great Wall Traverse
FA: Richard Brown, 1953 | 40m | Lawrencefield Quarry | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Balch's Slide
| 45m | Fairy Caves Quarry | ||
HS UKT:4a | Uphill Corner
| Other Avon Crags | |||
HVD UKT:4a | Bottoms Edge | 17m | Crowden Great Quarry | ||
S UKT:4a | Woe is Me
| 12m | Kinder | ||
HS UKT:4a | Starting Point Wall
| 10m | Chew Valley | ||
VS UKT:4a | The Flying Dutchman | Agden Rocher | |||
S UKT:4a | ★★ Bamford Wall | 14m | Bamford Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | ★ Flying Buttress
| 12m | Curbar Edge | ||
S UKT:4a | Barbeque | Wilton | |||
HVD UKT:4a | ★ Black Slab Left | 10m | Wharncliffe Crag | ||
S UKT:4a | Chicken Run
FA: 1949 | 12m | Staffordshire | ||
HS UKT:4a | ★ Farcical Arete | 8m | Burbage Valley |