Routes in South-West England

The gentle and beautifully textured granite arete provides an ideal initiation to the more manageable routes at Bosigran. Pitches 1 & 2 are usually combined.

1. 22m. Climb up the steep right-hand side of the arete. As the angle gradually becomes less steep, shift your position to the left, onto the actual arete, and continue following it until a suitable belay position.

2. 18m. Continue along the arete, progressing towards a terrace where multiple belay options are available.

3. 19m. Scale the steep cracks located at the rear of the bay, persevering until you reach the summit.

a nice easy ascent following the wall on the right of the gully and about 5m from the top changing to the left following a nice and tight chimney up for the last part.

a strong line and good climbing make this a popular and impressive undertaking. start about 10m right of the point that the approach path begins to drop down towards the main area.

Second from the right, following a brilliant lay back crack to the top with fun moves all the way.

a truly wonderful climb, they don't come much better. the climbing is straightforward but intimidating with good protection placements. start beneath the central corner

The first of two well-protected, classic corner-lines. A good introduction to the area. Start at the bottomless corner that forms the left hand side of the sheer wall, left of ‘The Bad Step’.

14m: Pull straight into the corner…

A pleasing pitch as long as the correct line is taken. Start at a steep 3m flake-crack. Take the stiff layback crack to a rest. Move left and pick a way up the wall which reveals some surprising holds. Info taken from the Rockfax 'West Country Climbs' topo

A high-moorland classic that features crack-climbing in all of its guises. It is possible to run the upper pitches together. Start on the right side of the flake that sits at the base of the gully.

1. 9m. Climb the crack and then the groove above (it is also possible to climb the left face of the groove) to a good ledge.

2. 9m. Chimney up the steep crack and exit onto a large ledge and belay.

3. 9m. The easy chimney above to finish. Belay on blocks. © Rockfax

One of the best of its grade hereabouts. Start just right of ‘The Bad Step’, below a thin crack with an old peg in place at 4m.

14m: Climb the thin crack with difficulty, passing the peg…

A well-protected pitch. Start at the shallow corner and crack directly above ‘The Bad Step’.

14m: Step in from the right and use twin cracks to gain the corner…

Can be climbed as two pitches by linking P1 and P2 together.

P1 can be linked into P2 and P3 of 'Doorpost' to create a 3-star "direct" route.

Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake.

Move up the initially technical wall to an easing. Continue slightly leftwards to a lower-off well below the top of the crag. Info taken from the Rockfax 'West Country Climbs' topo

Four contrasting pitches split by good belay ledges. The difficulties on the second pitch are 'traditional' meaning probably harder than VDiff! Start at a tree at the base of a vertical corner that is at the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

1. 23m. Climb the corner with a thin crack, and another couple of corners above it, to a huge flat ledge with various tree belays.

2. 4a, 10m. Can be avoided on the right. Walk right to a well defined hand crack. Boulder up the fun wall and overlap just to its left and then the more technical polished groove in the next wall. Belay at a tree and cracks in the short wall above.

3. 18m. The buttress above is climbed via an excellent crack just left of two small trees. Belay on good ledges above.

4. 12m. Climb a thin hand crack up the centre of the final buttress just right of a tree. Belay at the top on flat ledges.

6c/+ if you follow directly of the new bolt line

Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish.

an excellent expedition up the subsidiary buttress just left of the main face start a short mossy looking wall left of a vegetated gully and just right of a crack

A good route for first trad lead

the central line of sheepstors largest face is the crags best route. start at the foot of the highest point just to the left of the large slab.

Through broken rock to the left of a V grove, then tend right to an anchor, right of the thin seam.