Routen in South-West England

Follow the furthest left-hand line of pegs in Avon gorge.

A route sadly maligned by the guidebook. The vegetation has been cut back and at its present levels is part of the character of the route (and a helpful runner). The opening moves are serious though not highly technical. The crack above the hawthorn bush is better and more useful than it looks at first glance. The route packs a lot of climbing into a short distance and should be better known.

A good and slightly bold pitch that follows the staggered right-facing groove in the wall left of Desecrator. Start on the Desecrator starting ledge. Take the wall and groove to a slight horizontal break just below the capping overhang of the groove. Make a thin traverse right to slot and then move up to ledge and peg. Head leftwards to a crack and finish up it.

Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a vegetated path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good vegetated ledge and small tree belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right. Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top.

The large flake in the description has fallen away so the traverse out left and thus the route will be considerably altered. Other rockfall out left too.

A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot.

1. 5b, 25m. Climb up vegetated ground and work easily rightwards to a peg under an overhang. Move down left, then make committing moves up the wall to better holds which lead leftwards again to a small overhang. Move over the overhang rightwards to a small ledge and climb the groove above to a small stance.

2. 5b, 25m. Continue up the groove to an overhang and pull out right and then up into the crack that splits the spectacular final wall. Follow the crack to the left end of the capping overhangs and finish leftwards.

1. 6a, 27m.

2. 6a, 25m

An enjoyable appendage to the climbs on the Unknown Wall. The crux arête is avoidable so only warrents the grade if adhering to the true line. Possibly better done in one long pitch.

1. 6a, 27m. Men of the World pitch 1

2. 6a, 27m. Traverse right from the belay passing the line of pegs then step down slightly to hand traverse right along the good break. Up above the break and just before the corner of Urban Gorilla, is a shot hole. Reach up for this then using good layaways and holds, swing directly up the bulging wall until stopped by the blank white wall above. Tip toe leftwards and clip the peg on Blik. Taking a disciplined approach to avoid the temptation of using the Blik crack, climb the left arête of the white wall directly above the peg until emerging into the corner. Move up the corner, clipping the peg on the left before swinging up right to sensationally pull over the widest part of the overhang.

A shy gem of a climb that builds to a dramatic climax in its upper reaches. The first pitch is vegetated but the holds are clean. Start at the well-worn gearing-up spot as for The Blik.

1. 10m. Climb up rightwards on easy but vegetated ground to a good belay ledge right of a projecting block.

2. 4c, 27m. Continue above the belay and take the line left of the overhang (double pegs) that ends at a bulge. Move right and up past a peg with difficulty to an open corner and belay ledge.

3. 4c, 18m. Climb up to the overhang, pegs, and traverse left beneath them for 6m to where they fade. Move up past double pegs to easier ground and the top.

Stick clip the thread first? Then dyno from the stance at the back of the cave to the lip! F.A. done without pre-clipping the thread.

1. 6a, 42m.

2. 6a, 20m.

Large rockfall at the base. Potentially no longer possible/very dangerous to climb P1. [March 2021]

1. 5b, 45m.

2. 5c, 20m.

F7b, short hard climbing, past two staples.

Large rockfall at the base. Potentially no longer possible/very dangerous to climb P1. [March 2021]

1. 6b, 45m.

2. 5c, 25m.

Alternative finish from the hanging stance on Yellow Edge.

Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mould of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious looking flake.

1. 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.

2. 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.

3. 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges.

1. 6a, 27m.

2. 6b, 25m.

3. 6b, 20m.

1. 5c/6a, 27m.

2. 5c, 20m.

3. 6a, 20m.

1. 5c/6a, 25m.

2. 6a, 40m.

Exposure and fine well-protected climbing are the main components of this memorable high-rise pitch. Start as for Yellow Edge.

1. 5c, 26m. Yellow Edge pitch 1.

2. 5b, 22m. Yellow Edge pitch 2.

3. 5c, 22m. Head out leftwards to some pegs, and then climb the wall above past a peg to a break under a thin crack guarded by a bulge. Access the crack and follow it past pegs and then finish up flakes.

1. 5c, 27m.

2. 5b, 25m.

3. 5b, 15m.

4. 5c, 20m.

1. 5b, 27m.

2. 6a/b, 25m.

3. 6a, 20m.

Intense climbing that builds to a decisive pitch which battles up the thin seam and shear wall left of the top of the ramp. Start as for Yellow Edge.

1. 5c, 26m. Yellow Edge pitch 1.

2. 5c,16m. Clip a peg above the ledge on the right and move up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards (peg), traverse left 1m and then head up the wall rightwards to a bolted belay in the horizontal band of pocketed rock.

3. 6b, 30m. Move up to a very thin crack (peg) and climb it to a ledge. Move up the wall above leftward (peg) and then on up the fingery wall past a peg to another on the left. Move up right and then left to a peg before reaching a break above, that is traversed left until the top can be gained or the bolted belay of Was it You?

A sport-style single pitch up the wall right of the diagonal break of Amanita Muscarina's third pitch. Start from the bolted belay at the start of the third pitch of Tour de France that is best reached via an awkward abseil from the top of the ramp or by starting up the lower pitches of Tour de France. Protection is provided by a collection of bolts, pegs and a large cam. On the left take the thin wall past a break and up a crack to a ledge (cam). The wall above leads to a thin break from where a move utilising a slot reaches a sequence of hard moves right to finish at a bolted belay. Abseil off or top out.

7c/7c+. Climb the easy opening sequence of 'Was It You’ to the thin break and natural peg and compose yourself for a direct assault up the holdless wall where the parent route wimps-out leftwards. At the thin horizontal seam make a ‘baby bouncer’ between the parent’s bolt and the peg on Tour de France. The final attack is made without any protection until the final bolt of the parent can be clipped, however a slightly safer option is to first, tenuously clip the peg on Tour de France with a long reach out right. Finish at the in-situ lower off.

1. 5b, 25m.

2. 5b, 25m.

1. 5c, 25m.

2. 5b, 25m.

1. 5b, 27m.

2. 5b, 25m.

The huge arete on the right-hand side of the lower wall is a good but slightly bold route. Start 3m to the left of the arete.

1. 5c, 23m. Move up to the base of a small corner and traverse right across the bottom of a grey slab to the arete. Ascend the arete to an overhang, peg. Make a perplexing move through the overhang via a short hanging corner and climb a little way above to a ledge and a belay on the arete.

2. 5c, 22m. Move right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Move left to the arete and make delicate moves to a peg from where easier climbing up the arete finishes at the apex of the lower wall.

The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large corner at the base of the face.

1. 6a, 18m. Move up to and climb a thin crack and wall to a bolt. Pass the bolt leftwards via some fingery moves to a thin horizontal break. Traverse left with difficulty and move up a tiny corner to a good crack, then climb up it to the next set of ledges. Move left to a belay on the arete as for New Horizons.

2. 5c, 20m. Move back right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Continue in the same line up a little corner, peg, to a prominent peg on the right. Climb past the peg to a lighter band of rock and a peg on the left below a small white corner. Climb the wall right of the white corner, past a peg, to the top.

1. 5b, 33m.

2. 5a, 10m. An alternative and slightly more difficult and bolder version of M1. Begin as for M1. Follow the corner/groove of M1 to its end. Traverse left for 2m and just past a small corner pull up and right (thread) to reach a concrete rock stabilisation installation. Move out left and up a groove to a ledge and huge thread. Step right and boldly climb the wall to the ramp.

A fabulous pitch, loaded with a great deal of varied climbing. Start beneath the large corner/groove at the base of the face. Follow the blank corner/groove to ledges before heading right along a break to the base of a scoop. A few difficult moves up the right-hand side of the scoop, peg, gain the base of a right-leaning groove which leads to a ledge and easier ground.

1. 6a, 30m.

2. 5c, 12m.

1. 6a, 33m.

2. 5a, 10m.

An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. High in the grade. Start at a blank section of wall 7m right of the long corner groove of M1. Make some bouldery moves up the initial wall before moving left and climbing a corner/groove to a break and two pegs. Make bold moves rightwards up the wall to a ledge. From a short crack on the left, move up left to pockets that lead to a concrete block. Move right to a narrow groove and climb this and the wall above with difficulty past a pocket and bolt on the left to better finishing holds that lead to the ramp.

Easy slab to funky groove climbing where a new staple protects. Escape rightwards after clipping old bolt for 2nd.

Hard rockover onto heel hook and slopey nothings for hands. One poor peg protects.

Hard crimping passed pair of pegs, then scary upper section. Has been done ground up.

E4 without the bolt The route now has a lower bolt so is a clip up

First peg replaced after failure which resulted in lengthy groundfall. Upper peg atrocious. Was E7 6c until undercut came off. Now pushing Eng 7a.

E5 without the pegs

Very hard (and dirty) crimping past single ring bolt to top out of Slap Stick.

Just to the right of Jimmy Lowe. Thin hard moves to start. 3 bolts

A thrilling pitch combining a head-spinning position with faultless wall-climbing. Start at the top of the ramp. Traverse left for 3m along the break to a tiny ledge. Climb slightly rightwards up the wall, past 2 pegs, to good nuts in the cracks above. Move up leftwards with difficulty to the base of an open groove and a peg on the right and proceed up the groove to where it fades. Finish up the fingery final wall passing a peg.

E5 if hidden wire found.

Lovely climb on great quality rock. Climb the Slender Norris crack to a shrubbery (which may benefit from the occasional prune). Place some good gear as high as you can reach and then traverse left on good crimps to a thinner crack that offers quite little in terms of gear and holds. Work your way up to a break to find good hold and and a reassuring peg, then make long reachy moves up and right to gain a shake-out and the biggest, fattest peg anybody has ever placed. Somehow find a way to get stood up in the seemingly blank scoop above and tip-toe delicately right to an exit where a belay station can (eventually) be found.

A good pitch that takes on a fine corner-crack. Start at a right-facing flake crack 10m down from the top of the ramp. Climb the corner past some difficult moves midway, to where it ends at a short steep headwall. Traverse right to better holds and easier ground leading back left to belays. The short headwall can be climbed directly via a long move at 6a.

F7b climbing

An upper wall testpiece that features a well-protected crux. Start at a right-leaning crack, the base of which disappears into a hole in the ramp. Follow the crack pleasantly to a hand-ledge. Continue more steeply to where it thins, and make a couple of urgent pulls up the wall just left of the crack to an easy finish up a tiny corner.

Some thin moves and a long reach up to the pegs at the break for a semi-rest before launching up the headwall just right of the Arms Race ring bolt.

Takes a disjointed crackline. Grade depends on finish used. The LH finish is best and hardest at E5. The original finish traverses R 20' below the top to the arete and is E4. Superb and very sustained wall climbing. Start at pockets in the wall just left of a small overhang, 4m right of the start of Arms Race. Climb up the pockets to meet the base of a short right trending crack. Climb the crack to a peg and step right to a thinner crack. Climb this past another peg to a move right and a shakeout on the blunt arete. Move up to a peg and then climb the steepening wall past a peg on the left to the top

1. 5b, 15m.

2. 5b, 30m.

Start 7m left of the broken fissure. Start up the deteriorating crack that forms the lower R/H element of the crossing cracks that make a vague 'X', poor gear. Make use of features to the right, to gain the rightward arching crack crossed by Rancho, the upper R/H element of the 'X'. Follow this to it's end and proceed upwards to the borehole belay.

An eliminate up the lower wall between What About Me and Rancho Cucamonga. Start behind the budleia (if it's still there) and gain and pinch a poor sidepull. Placing the other foot on, dynamically gain an intermediate crimp and then go again out right for a bigger but dirty flat hold. Less positive holds above and to the right of this lead to a big move from a finger jug to the sanctuary of a niche and good wires. From the good break above (good hex and or cams) finish more direct to the left of Rancho, or to suit.

A smart climb. Start at a pocketed yellow streak just left of Banshee's thin crack. Reach up to the pockets and take these to a peg. Move up to another peg on the right (on Banshee) and reach a flat hold at the base of a slim groove, peg. Climb the left wall of the groove to meet a horizontal crack and finish on good holds to the right. Abseil station above and left.

A really tight eliminate between Rancho Cucamonga and Banshee, finishing to the right of that pitch. Climb the fingery wall using the edges of crystally pockets and (carefully) brittle sidepulls on the left until a final long move gains jugs and the peg with the maillon. From the break on Banshee (more gear) climb to the right of the parent route via a thin move and a good crimp in the middle of some black stuff and finish direct.

A neat pitch. Start at a thin crack in the grey wall 2m left of two rock anchor bolts. Climb the crack until level with two pegs on the left. Step left to the pegs and then climb the left-hand side of the shallow arete above to a final mantel onto a sloping ledge. An abseil station is a few metres up to the left.

"3 7a moves in a row". Hard and bold without the bolts. i.e. has been soloed.

Straight up the wall to the right of the Prince. And just left of the crack.