Routen in South-West England

The line to the left of Titania. Make really hard moves directly past the first two bolts then step right near at the top, past the top bolt of Titania and make the exiting mantle out.

The crimpy wall to the left of Oberon (3 bolts + static rope lower off on rock anchor above)

The line to the left of Clot Buster. Two bolts on the face then one over the top generously placed to get you to the lower off. Hard moves to get to the obvious finger ramp.

Start up clot buster and move left along the sloping foot ramp to the bolt. Pull up using the blunt flake and throw for the finishing flake on Oberon. 7a if you pre-clip the bolt.

Starts at the rock anchor which is used as a lower off for Titania Climb the arête to a break and then up to the tree. Abseil descent.

Start to the right of the red wall. P1)Climb the ramp up to the rock anchor and a borehole with two pegs. P2) climb the borehole and follow the crack and corner right wards. Go left at the top and abseil from the tree.

A super direct between Bristol Diamond and FKD. Start as for FKD at the footledge. Take a hard direct line to a small side hold. Excellent small wires in the crack above. Make a hard rock up left onto a reasonable foothold and make tenuous moves to the fingerjug just below the peg on Bristol Diamond. Finishing up right of the crack.

The sport route bounding the right side of the wall.

Open Project

Old Aid route from the 60s. Has some working bolts in place

Possibly 8b+

The line to the right of 45° In the Shade. Move left when at the second bolt to good holds on 45° then up slightly right to a good side pull which leads to a strenuous and sloping exit

E6 6b with 2 rest points (in 8m). Awaits a clean ascent on gear.

Clipping bolts negates a true ascent.

Avon's answer to one of the hardest boulders in the world.

Open Project

Fully equipped and ready to go!

Possibly 8c?

Climb the slanting crack all the way. Great gear, great moves, great rock. In-situ belay at the top. Abseil off.

slightly polished at the bottom and large undercut at the top is creaky!

Much harder since rock clearance work.

1. 4c, 20m.

2. 5b, 15m. Peg not in place.

1. 5b, 15m.

2. 5c, 15m.

1. 4c, 15m.

2. 5a, 25m.

The wall and slab between A quick roll please and better in 9/8 At the thin seam span right to a pocket and make hard moves using small layaways onto the slab. Teeter up on smears to the finishing holds. (To tick the grade don’t use the big holds for hands and feet just to the right of the pocket)

The wall between the arete of 'Ali G minor' and pocketed features of 'A1 Funk'. Start about a metre left of the arete. Gain the break (medium cam), rock up onto it to reach a small wire using a flat edge above broken rock. Continue above to top out via a thread (2-bolt abseil station up and left).

highball

To the right of Ali G Minor. Climb the short steep red wall then up the juggy little prow of rock