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Bus Stop Quarry Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

John Stringer Ben Jenga Peter Willis Steve Bell jobangles john cook Rob Baker Jim Croft Daniel Mateos

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Bus Stop Quarry 21 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.129073, -4.105818

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mini Bus Stop 5+ Sport
2 First step 5a Sport 16m
3 Septuagenarian 6a Sport 20m
4 Mudslide Slim

old route which was re-cleaned and had a double lower off fitted courtesy of mr goodey, in Aug/09. Excellent gear but not in the first 15ft. Double bolt lower off.

HS 4a Trad 20m
5 Wizz Bang 6c Sport 10m
6 Fool's Gold

FA: P George & A George, 1985

E1 5c Trad 20m
7 Beltane 7b+ Sport 25m
8 Solstice

Plenty of rather big and also rather hollow flakes. Dont bother to test them, you'll just get scared. Follow the obvious diagonal line to the left of Equinox. At the point where they meet either take the left hand branch or the righthand branch, easier.

FA: A George & T Taylor, 1985

HVS 5a Trad 26m
9 Solstice Direct

FA: A George & T Taylor, 1985

E2 5c Trad 26m
10 Equinox

FA: T Taylor & A George, 1985

VS 4c Trad 26m
11 Sterling Silver

FA: J Banks, L Naylor & D Clark, 1986

E2 5c Trad 25m
12 Gnat Attack

FA: A D Newton & R A Newton, 1985

E1 5b Trad 20m
13 Massambula

FA: P Williams & W Wayman, 1985

E2 5b Trad 22m
14 Scarlet Runner

FA: W Wayman & P Williams, 1985

E4 5c Trad 25m

1.1. Upper Level 7 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

description

There are a number of short sport routes that have been established on a series of craglets up behind the Dinorwig Needles.

approach

Access is via a broken path heading up the scree slope. Stay to the right at the big boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Big Easy

A nifty line up a short slab left of the initial path.

{FR} 4+ Sport 7m
2 Jagged Face

Start just right of "The Big Easy" and climb to the shared lower offs

{FR} 4+ Sport 7m
3 Comfort Zone

Thirty metres further up the tier is a square cut recess on the left hand side of the buttress.Steep moves precede a pleasant saunter up to the lower offs.

{FR} 5b Sport 12m
4 Finatic

Obvious clean plinth of rock on the left. Take the line between the two fins of rock to the lower offs.

{FR} 6c Sport 7m
5 Jenga

Up to the right, close to the edge of the Solstice Face below, is a well cleaned corner,. Climb to the lower offs.

{FR} 4+ Sport 7m
6 Bosch Stop Quarry

The shallow groove left and around the arete to the lower offs.

{FR} 6a+ Sport 8m
7 Bish Bash Bosch

Start on the sloping ledge and follow the bolts up the to an "unseeable" lower off. If you climb on, they will come!

{FR} 6a+ Sport 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
4+ Jagged Face Sport 7m 1.1. Upper Level
Jenga Sport 7m 1.1. Upper Level
The Big Easy Sport 7m 1.1. Upper Level
HS 4a Mudslide Slim Trad 20m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
5a First step Sport 16m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
5b Comfort Zone Sport 12m 1.1. Upper Level
VS 4c Equinox Trad 26m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
5+ Mini Bus Stop Sport 1. Bus Stop Quarry
HVS 5a Solstice Trad 26m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
6a Septuagenarian Sport 20m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
6a+ Bish Bash Bosch Sport 8m 1.1. Upper Level
Bosch Stop Quarry Sport 8m 1.1. Upper Level
E1 5b Gnat Attack Trad 20m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
E2 5b Massambula Trad 22m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
6c Wizz Bang Sport 10m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
Finatic Sport 7m 1.1. Upper Level
E1 5c Fool's Gold Trad 20m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
E2 5c Solstice Direct Trad 26m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
Sterling Silver Trad 25m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
E4 5c Scarlet Runner Trad 25m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
7b+ Beltane Sport 25m 1. Bus Stop Quarry
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