Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6a+ | ★★ Reptile Smile | 21m | Portland | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct
FA: D. Lomas, 1956 FFA: Paul Grey, 1966 | 20m | Stanage | ||
VD 4a | ★★ Hollybush Crack
The clean crack in the right facing corner. The lower section is somewhat polished and is the crux while the upper section is a bit more juggy but still interesting. Good gear throughout. FA: George Bower, 1926 | 14m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Three Pebble Slab | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★★ Christmas Crack
FA: George Bower, 1926 | 15m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ The Right Unconquerable
Starting at the crack in the centre of the unconquerables, head left through the series of under clinging flakes. | 17m | Stanage | ||
HVS 4c | ★★★ Sunset Slab | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Bond Street | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ The Left Unconquerable
| 17m | Stanage | ||
VD | ★★★ Little Chamonix
| 72m, 4 | Borrowdale | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Tody's Wall
FA: Joe Brown, 1948 | 18m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVD 3c | ★★ Heather Wall
Jam and lay back the obvious crack to the left of the wall | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5b | ★★★ Great Portland Street | 21m | Millstone Edge | ||
5a | ★★ Slings Shot | 22m | Portland | ||
VD | ★★ Fluted Columns | 14m | Almscliff | ||
VD | ★★★ Heaven Crack
Layback the flake just left of the descent gully. Tricky move to finish. | 10m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Great North Road | 35m | Millstone Edge | ||
HS 4c | ★★ Sunset Crack
FA: Len Chapman & Bob Tomsett, 1948 | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
VS 4c | ★★ One Step in the Clouds
1
VS 4c
25m
2
4c
30m
3
15m
Popular route. Affected by rock fall so the first pitch description may not be accurate - see https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tremadog-danger! Starts at the base of a steep groove where there is a ledge with a large tree on it to the left.
FA: C.Jones & R.Moseley, 1958 | 70m, 3 | Tremadog Area | ||
S 4a | ★★ Christmas Curry
S 4a 25m, 4a 15m, 4a 20m A much-ascended classic taking the easiest line up Plum Buttress © Rockfax | 60m, 3 | Tremadog Area | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ The Arrow
The right trending crack line on the front of the buttress. Around the rooflet to the right near the top. Awesome position, consistent climbing the whole pitch with excellent protection. FA: P Whillance & D Armstrong, 1977 | 39m | Pembroke | ||
S 4b | ★★ Crack and Corner
Lovely crack climbing up the obvious (and very polished) corner. | 16m | Stanage | ||
HS 4a | ★★ Green Gut | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ The Price of Silence | 20m | Portland | ||
HS 4b | ★★ Manchester Buttress
Classy climbing that tests the rope work. FA: Maurice Linnel, 1930 | 16m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Embankment 2
1
VS 4c
16m
2
4b
14m
| 30m, 2 | Millstone Edge | ||
HS 4b | ★★ Bird's Nest Crack
Put up pre 1900. Straight up the crack, move right to grab the strange protruberance and up again. Becoming more and more polished. FA: Herbert Ingle & Edward Calvert. | 10m | Almscliff | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ Hargreave's Original Route
FA: Albert Hargreaves, 1928 | 16m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ The Mississippi Buttress Direct
Start in leaning groove, climb to bridge below bulges then follow flake crack which eases off towards the top. FA: Roy Horseman, 1927 | 22m | Stanage | ||
E1 5b | ★★ Embankment 3
1
E1 5b
16m
2
5b
14m
FA: Ed Drummond, 1975 | 30m, 2 | Millstone Edge | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Heather Wall
| 14m | Stanage | ||
6a+ | ★★ Cake Walk | 22m | Portland | ||
VS 4c | ★ Trapeze Direct
Straightforward climb directly up the crack | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
VS 4b | ★★ Inverted V
FA: Cyril Ward, 1922 | 22m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Chequers Buttress | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ The Plum
One long mixed pitch with many different styles. FA: R James & D Yates, 1961 | 50m | Tremadog Area | ||
{FR} 6a | ★★ Who Sat on my Satsuma
Up the left hand side of the red wall with the odd tricky move linking the mostly good holds. | 14m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Pregnant Pause | 30m | Portland | ||
HS 4b | ★★ April Crack
FA: Herbert Hartley, 1928 | 15m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 5C | ★★★ Crescent Arete
Another perfect grit arete. Beautiful climbing up a proud line with a slightly iffy landing, and high enough to make you pay attention. | 7m | Stanage | ||
HS 4b | ★★★ Paradise Wall
| 14m | Stanage | ||
E1 5c | ★★★ Cenotaph Corner
FA: J Brown & D Belshaw, 1952 | 37m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ The Fang
FA: J Brown & C E Davies, 1961 | 61m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
{FR} 6b+ | ★★ Buoys will be Buoys | Portland | |||
{FR} 5a | ★★ A Dream of White Porsches | 20m | Portland | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Central Trinity
| 15m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★ Knights Move
A classic climb. FA: Gilbert Ellis. 1933. | 16m | Burbage Valley | ||
6a | ★★ Zig-Zag Wall
Climb the lower groove, then traverse rightwards and up the cracks. Finally, move back left and surmounting the arete’s nose. | 9m | Kent | ||
S 4a | ★ Black Hawk Hell Crack
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HS 4b | ★ Diamond Crack
Jam up the stunning crack - steep strenuous and well protected. | 8m | Froggatt Edge | ||
{FB} 6A | ★★★ Pebble Arete
Pull on to the bottom left corner of the deliverance slab and use the arete and smeary feet to head up to glory. Tom Bes | 4m | Stanage | ||
HS 4a | ★★ Tennis Shoe
FA: N E Odell, 1919 | 160m, 7 | Ogwen Valley Area | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ A Dream of White Horses
1
HVS 5a
45m
2
5a
25m
3
4c
35m
4
4c
45m
FA: E Drummond & D Pearce, 1968 | 150m, 4 | Anglesey | ||
6c | ★★ Downtown Julie Brown
One of many exceptional flowstone pitches in this crag. Initiate by tackling the wall just right of the bolts, for favourable holds. Navigate the progressively intricate wall by executing a slender manoeuver and utilising a minor undercut, leading to a more manageable conclusion on the left. | 22m | Portland | ||
E1 5b | ★★ Embankment 4 | 30m | Millstone Edge | ||
6a | ★★ Mother's Milk
A premier crack climb known for its enjoyment and intensity. Be vigilant for the bolt concealed in the crack. | 19m | Portland | ||
{FR} 3 | ★★ Fallen Slab Arête | 25m | Portland | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ A life of Grime
The centre of the wall is nice and sustained with the odd reachy move. Pumpy | 14m | Peak District Limestone | ||
6a+ | ★ Stonemason
| 18m, 4 | Swanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★ Merlin Direct
1
HVS 4c
24m
2
5a
26m
Another popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.
FA: A.J.J. Moulam & B.A. Gillot, 1956 | 50m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
E2 5c | ★★★ Regent Street | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
{FB} 7A | ★★★ The Green Traverse
Start on the sloping right-hand end of the block and traverse left around the front face, until better holds lead to the rockover onto the slab on the left-hand side of the block. | 6m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Great Western
A 4 star route in the guide. Climb 'Crack of Doom' to the roof, then traverse leftwards to a hard pull into a rest in the niche. Finish either direct or up right via 'The Five Star Finish'. Is generally considered THE best climb on grit, some disagree. FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 19/09/43. | 15m | Almscliff | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Shadrach
1
VS 4c
35m
2
4c
18m
| 53m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
E1 5c | ★★★ Fool's Gold
FA: P George & A George, 1985 | 20m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
HVD 4a | ★★★ Flying Buttress
FA: Fergus Graham, 1922 | 24m | Stanage | ||
D 4b | ★ Low Man Easy Way | 13m | Almscliff | ||
{FR} 3 | ★ Fallen Slab | 22m | Portland | ||
HVS 4c | ★★ The Mall | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★ Army Dreamers
FA: S Lewis & co., 1980 | 23m | Pembroke | ||
HS 4a | ★★ Right Hand Trinity
The long crack in the wall is started at a small rightward facing corner then direct up. | 13m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Queersville
| 15m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Via Media
| 11m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 6a | ★ Pale Rider
| 20m | Peak District Limestone | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ Gogarth
1
E1 4b
18m
2
5a
18m
3
4b
18m
4
4c
20m
5
5b
32m
The first route established on Main Cliff - historic! FA: B Ingle & M Boysen, 1964 | 110m, 5 | Anglesey | ||
S 4a | ★★ Poor Man's Peuterey
5 Pitches, great for bringing beginners, or on a wet day. | 77m | Tremadog Area | ||
HVS 5c | ★★ Chequers Crack | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS 5a | ★★★ Goliath's Groove
Start in the difficult off-width corner to gain a rest above. Then climb to glory up the corner crack to the top. | 22m | Stanage | ||
D | ★★ Alison Rib
The gentle and beautifully textured granite arete provides an ideal initiation to the more manageable routes at Bosigran. Pitches 1 & 2 are usually combined.
FA: D G Romanis, 1923 | 59m, 3 | Bosigran | ||
HVS 5b | ★★★ Congo Corner
FA: Peter Biven, 1954 | 24m | Stanage | ||
VS 4c | ★★★ High Neb Buttress
| 20m | Stanage | ||
S 4a | ★ North Climb
Climb the wide crack to the left hand end of the slab. FA: James W Puttrell, Henry Bishop & C Douglas Yeomans, 1906 | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E2 5c | ★★★ Left Wall
FA: R MOseley, J Smith & J Sutherland, 1956 FFA: A Garlick, 1970 | 40m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
D 3a | ★ Mucky Gully
a nice easy ascent following the wall on the right of the gully and about 5m from the top changing to the left following a nice and tight chimney up for the last part. a strong line and good climbing make this a popular and impressive undertaking. start about 10m right of the point that the approach path begins to drop down towards the main area. | 48m, 2 | The Dewerstone | ||
S 4a | ★ Allen's Slab
Start up Gamma then head right at the diagonal crack along sparse gear, continue to traverse right along the scooped ledge then finish up jugs left of Trapeze Direct | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVD | ★★ Grooved Arete | 240m | Ogwen Valley Area | ||
4a | ★★ Bow Window
This segment features the primary and most favoured route. Ascend the crevices and straightforward upper section, concluding by scaling the gully overhead. | 8m | Kent | ||
HS 4a | ★★ Robin Hood's Right-Hand Buttress Direct
FA: Cyril Ward, 1922 | 23m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 4a | ★★ I'm Doing it Anyway
Second from the right, following a brilliant lay back crack to the top with fun moves all the way. | Portland | |||
6a+ | ★★ Long Layback
Lay-back up the crack in the corner. There's a tree-root at the base of the crack, and the start is somewhat polished. | 8m | Kent | ||
VS 4c | ★★ Sabre Cut
1
VS 4c
32m
2
4b
23m
FA: E Pentir Williams & R G Williams, 1935 | 55m, 2 | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
6b | ★★ The Niblick
Step off the block, then climb the crack, crack, groove, and off-width crack (in turn, past the various horizontal breaks) to the top. | 11m | Kent | ||
S 4a | ★★ Black and Tans
1
S 4a
12m
2
3c
18m
A superior variation on Black Velvet. Climb the corner half way up that route, but move out left to a possible belay. Climb the corner above to an exposed nose which is climbed by a series of awkward and poorly protected mantelshelves FA: A S 'Fred' Pigott, 1922 | 30m, 2 | Staffordshire | ||
VD | ★★ Direct route | 76m | Ogwen Valley Area | ||
7B+ | ★★★ Deliverance
FA: Q. Fisher | 3m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 4+ | ★★ Pebble Flakes
| 4m | Stanage | ||
HVS 5a | ★★ Avalanche Wall
FA: Joe Brown | 12m | Curbar Edge | ||
S 4b | ★ 20-foot Crack | 6m | Burbage Valley | ||
HVD | Stew Pot | 11m | Almscliff | ||
HS 4b | ★ Castle Crack
| 18m | Stanage |