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Routes in United Kingdom for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 7,569 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
HVS UKT:5a Three Pebble Slab Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HVS UKT:5a The Right Unconquerable

Starting at the crack in the centre of the unconquerables, head left through the series of under clinging flakes.

Trad 17m Stanage
HVS UKT:5a Bond Street Trad 22m Millstone Edge
HVS UKT:5a Tody's Wall

FA: Joe Brown, 1948

Trad 18m Froggatt Edge
{FR} 5 Slings Shot Sport 22m Portland
HVS UKT:5a Great North Road Trad 35m Millstone Edge
HVS UKT:5a Chequers Buttress Trad 14m Froggatt Edge
HVS UKT:5a The Fang

FA: J Brown & C E Davies, 1961

Trad 61m, 2 Tremadog Area
HVS UKT:5a Knights Move

A classic climb.

FA: Gilbert Ellis. 1933.

Trad 16m Burbage Valley
HVS UKT:5a A Dream of White Horses
1 HVS 5a 45m
2 5a 25m
3 4c 35m
4 4c 45m

FA: E Drummond & D Pearce, 1968

Trad 150m, 4 Anglesey
HVS UKT:5a Merlin Direct
1 HVS 4c 24m
2 5a 26m

Another popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.

  1. 4c, 20m. Climb left up a crack to an overhang. Now make a hard move up and right up two cracks and into the base of a groove. An easier alternative is to step left at the overhang and then move up right along a ramp to the base of the groove. Climb the groove to an exciting exit left at the top to a belay.

  2. 5a, 30m. Climb the slab up and left to the base of a wide crack. Climb this to where it gets too wide and step out right onto the arete and follow easier ground up and left to a ledge below a steepening crack. Arrange gear and step left onto the headwall to gain a steep crack on the left which leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA: A.J.J. Moulam & B.A. Gillot, 1956

Trad 50m, 2 Tremadog Area
HVS UKT:5a Great Western

A 4 star route in the guide. Climb 'Crack of Doom' to the roof, then traverse leftwards to a hard pull into a rest in the niche. Finish either direct or up right via 'The Five Star Finish'. Is generally considered THE best climb on grit, some disagree.

FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 19/09/43.

Trad 15m Almscliff
HVS UKT:5a Queersville
Trad 15m Stanage
HVS UKT:5a Army Dreamers

FA: S Lewis & co., 1980

Trad 23m Pembroke
HVS UKT:5a Goliath's Groove

Start in the difficult off-width corner to gain a rest above. Then climb to glory up the corner crack to the top.

Trad 22m Stanage
{FB} 4+ Pebble Flakes
Boulder 4m Stanage
HVS UKT:5a Avalanche Wall

FA: Joe Brown

Trad 12m Curbar Edge
5c Charlie and the Hex 5 Sport Portland
HVS UKT:5a Meshach
1 HVS 4c 34m
2 5a 24m

FA: R James

Trad 58m, 2 Tremadog Area
5c The Sod Sport 12m Portland
HVS UKT:5a Diagonal Trad 250m Llanberis Valley Area
HVS UKT:5a Front Line

FA: D Armstrong, P Whillance & J Lambs, 1976

Trad 33m Pembroke
HVS UKT:5a Solstice

Plenty of rather big and also rather hollow flakes. Dont bother to test them, you'll just get scared. Follow the obvious diagonal line to the left of Equinox. At the point where they meet either take the left hand branch or the righthand branch, easier.

FA: A George & T Taylor, 1985

Trad 26m Llanberis Valley Area
HVS UKT:5a Valkyrie Trad 20m, 2 Froggatt Edge
VS UKT:5a Freda

One of the best of its grade hereabouts. Start just right of ‘The Bad Step’, below a thin crack with an old peg in place at 4m.

14m: Climb the thin crack with difficulty, passing the peg…

Trad 14m Swanage
HVS UKT:5a The Sloth

The amazing splitter crack through the roof on creaky flakes.

FA: Don Whillans, 1954

Trad 24m Staffordshire
E2 UKT:5a Sundowner Trad 12m Froggatt Edge
HVS UKT:5a Meringue Trad 10m Lawrencefield Quarry
VS UKT:5a Little Brown Jug
1 VS 4b 22m
2 4a 18m
3 5a 24m

Can be climbed as two pitches by linking P1 and P2 together.

P1 can be linked into P2 and P3 of 'Doorpost' to create a 3-star "direct" route.

FA: P H Biven & B M Biven, 1955

Trad 64m, 3 Bosigran
5c Little Chef Sport Portland
HS UKT:5a Tango Buttress
Trad 14m Stanage
HVS UKT:5a Tactician

FA: J Lamb, D Armstrong & P Whillance, 1976

Trad 33m Pembroke
5c Old Men Last Longer
Sport 15m Wyndcliff Quarry
HVS UKT:5a King Bee Crack
Trad 37m Anglesey
{FR} 5b Do Ixtlan
Sport Portland
{FR} 5+ Excavator
Sport 30m Peak District Limestone
HVS UKT:5a Maupassant
Trad 10m Curbar Edge
HVS UKT:5a Croton Oil

Follows a series of finger cracks to the loose flake (be gentle!) and top of the needle. Good gear and the best route at Rivelin. Abseil off the needle using a rusty chain or chipped notch (or both).

Trad 12m Rivelin Edge
5 So Naughty
Sport 15m, 5 Swanage
HVS UKT:5a Overhanging Groove Trad 17m Almscliff
VS UKT:5a Original Route

FA: I A RIchards, C F Holland & D E Piley, 1918

Trad 40m, 2 Ogwen Valley Area
HVS UKT:5a Hercules

FA: J Williams & M Harber, 1978

Trad 33m Pembroke
{FR} 5+ Slumberland
Sport 12m Peak District Limestone
E1 UKT:5a Namenlos
Trad 14m Stanage
HVS UKT:5a Blizzard Ridge
Trad 14m Rivelin Edge
HVS UKT:5a Padme
Trad 28m Peak District Limestone
HVS UKT:5a Angel's Wall

A CALEY CLASSIC.A SOLO THE ONLY WAY TO TRY IT

FA: ARTHUR DOLPHIN

Trad 7m Caley Crags
HVS UKT:5a Scratch Arête Trad 60m, 2 Tremadog Area
HVS UKT:5a Plexity

FA: Joe Brown

Trad 21m Millstone Edge
HVS UKT:5a The Laughing Cavaliers Trad 28m Shorn cliff
5+ The War of the Wardens

FA: Mark Williams, 1994

Unknown 10m Swanage
{FR} 5+ Talking Smack Sport Portland
HVS UKT:5a The Loosener

FFA: B Newman, R Thomas & S Bancroft, 1980

Trad 21m Pembroke
HVS UKT:5a Demon Wall Trad 10m Almscliff
VS UKT:5a Outlook Slab

After staring up the crack between blocks (start of The Coign), climb the centre of the slab with horizontal cracks.

FA: Martin Veale, 1978

Trad 16m Stanage
{FR} 5c Don't Fear the Bleater

FA: Chris Newton-Goverd, 2002

Sport 10m, 7 Cheddar
{FR} 5+ Crack O'Dawn

Aim for the groove. things soon ease

Sport 11m Peak District Limestone
5c Pig's Nose

Ascend the notable arete using large holds until reaching the big ledge. From there, shift slightly to the left to access a weakness in the sizeable overhang above, and boldly proceed to haul oneself up using jugs to finish.

Top rope 12m Kent
{FR} 5 Men at Work
Sport 32m Peak District Limestone
5c Sting in the Tail Sport 11m Portland
{FB} 4C Black Arête
Boulder 4m Stanage
{FB} 4C Scoops Slab
Boulder 4m Stanage
HVS UKT:5a Pluto Trad 73m, 3 Langdale
5c Sodor

The second line of bolts on the slab between Rack and Pin to the left and The Mallard to the right.

FA: Josie Ball, 2007

Sport 12m Llanberis Valley Area
5c The Mallard

The third line of bolts on the slab between Sodor to the left and Polar Express to the right.

FA: Josie Ball, 2007

Sport 12m, 6 Llanberis Valley Area
HVS UKT:5a Original Route

This is a stunning pitch on fantastic rock. Follow the obvious wandery groove with intermittent flakes and crack features. You can either go left at the bulge down low or direct and take E2. Truly one of the best in the Peak.

Trad 35m Peak District Limestone
VS UKT:5a Striptease Trad Tremadog Area
HVS UKT:5a The Chant Trad 6m Burbage Valley
HVS UKT:5a C.M.C. Slab Trad 16m Froggatt Edge
HVS UKT:5a Brant Direct

Either continue up P2 of 'Brant' or belay on the right and abseil off.

FA: P R J Harding, J I Disley, P R Hodgkinson & G Dyke, 1949

Trad 23m Llanberis Valley Area
{FR} 5c Troubled Waters Deep water solo 10m Swanage
HVS UKT:5a Bruvers
Trad 25m Anglesey
HVS UKT:5a Tyrone Trad 18m Lawrencefield Quarry
VS UKT:5a Bilberry Crack Trad 10m Bamford Edge
HVS UKT:5a Lost Horizon Trad 39m Baggy Point
{FR} 5c I wish you heaven
Sport Wyndcliff Quarry
{FR} 5 Latrine
Sport 16m Peak District Limestone
V0+ Steep Side
Boulder Stanage
{FR} 5+ Udderley
Sport 12m Peak District Limestone
HVS UKT:5a The Bitter Battle Tears Trad 26m Shorn cliff
HVS UKT:5a Pedestal Crack Trad 14m Froggatt Edge
5c Slab

Not a slab climb at all, of course.

Climb the crack and edge up the left side of the triangular slab.

Top rope 8m Kent
HVS UKT:5a Kransic Crack Direct
Trad 20m Borrowdale
HVS UKT:5a Fern Crack
Trad 16m Stanage
VS UKT:5a Leaning Wall Direct Trad 8m Burbage Valley
VS UKT:5a Laceration
Trad 22m Anglesey
5b Deadwood Crack

Climb the obvious crack up to the big ledge.

Top rope 6m Kent
HVS UKT:5a Climbers' Club Direct
1 HVS 5a 23m
2 4c 27m

one for the jamming master, a forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps over the years.start beneath the hand crack that cuts through the overhang.

Trad 50m, 2 The Dewerstone
{FR} 5+ Morning Winpenny Sport 12m Ban-y-Gor
{FR} 5c Absent friends, here's to them Sport Portland
HVS UKT:5a Simian Trad Avon Gorge
HVS UKT:5a Chieftain

Steep corner crack left of the Butcher arete.

Trad 25m Pembroke
HVS UKT:5a Parker's Eliminate
Trad 14m Hobson Moor Quarry
E1 5b THE SPIDER Unknown 40m Chudleigh
{FB} 4+ Mini Crack
Boulder Curbar Edge
HVS UKT:5a Tigers Don't Cry Trad 20m Shorn cliff
{FR} 5 Mackerel
Sport Swanage
{FR} 5+ Wiggi and Mopoke's Excellent New Hilti Sport 20m Portland
HVS UKT:5a Saul's Crack

Excellent & varied jamming with good protection makes this a coveted route. Climb the crack for what will be the first of many times.

FA: Joe Brown, 1947

Trad 18m Staffordshire
VS UKT:5a Birch Tree Wall

FA: Jack London 1928

Trad 20m Black Rocks

Showing 1 - 100 out of 7,569 routes.

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