Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Three Pebble Slab | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ The Right Unconquerable
Starting at the crack in the centre of the unconquerables, head left through the series of under clinging flakes. | 17m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Bond Street | 22m | Millstone Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Tody's Wall
FA: Joe Brown, 1948 | 18m | Froggatt Edge | ||
{FR} 5 | ★★ Slings Shot | 22m | Portland | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Great North Road | 35m | Millstone Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Chequers Buttress | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ The Fang
FA: J Brown & C E Davies, 1961 | 61m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Knights Move
A classic climb. FA: Gilbert Ellis. 1933. | 16m | Burbage Valley | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ A Dream of White Horses
1
HVS 5a
45m
2
5a
25m
3
4c
35m
4
4c
45m
FA: E Drummond & D Pearce, 1968 | 150m, 4 | Anglesey | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Merlin Direct
1
HVS 4c
24m
2
5a
26m
Another popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.
FA: A.J.J. Moulam & B.A. Gillot, 1956 | 50m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Great Western
A 4 star route in the guide. Climb 'Crack of Doom' to the roof, then traverse leftwards to a hard pull into a rest in the niche. Finish either direct or up right via 'The Five Star Finish'. Is generally considered THE best climb on grit, some disagree. FA: Arthur Dolphin & Robert Heap. 19/09/43. | 15m | Almscliff | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Queersville
| 15m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Army Dreamers
FA: S Lewis & co., 1980 | 23m | Pembroke | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Goliath's Groove
Start in the difficult off-width corner to gain a rest above. Then climb to glory up the corner crack to the top. | 22m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 4+ | ★★ Pebble Flakes
| 4m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Avalanche Wall
FA: Joe Brown | 12m | Curbar Edge | ||
5c | ★★ Charlie and the Hex 5 | Portland | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Meshach
1
HVS 4c
34m
2
5a
24m
FA: R James | 58m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
5c | ★ The Sod | 12m | Portland | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Diagonal | 250m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ Front Line
FA: D Armstrong, P Whillance & J Lambs, 1976 | 33m | Pembroke | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Solstice
Plenty of rather big and also rather hollow flakes. Dont bother to test them, you'll just get scared. Follow the obvious diagonal line to the left of Equinox. At the point where they meet either take the left hand branch or the righthand branch, easier. FA: A George & T Taylor, 1985 | 26m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Valkyrie | 20m, 2 | Froggatt Edge | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★★ Freda
One of the best of its grade hereabouts. Start just right of ‘The Bad Step’, below a thin crack with an old peg in place at 4m. 14m: Climb the thin crack with difficulty, passing the peg… | 14m | Swanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ The Sloth
The amazing splitter crack through the roof on creaky flakes. FA: Don Whillans, 1954 | 24m | Staffordshire | ||
E2 UKT:5a | ★★ Sundowner | 12m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ Meringue | 10m | Lawrencefield Quarry | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★★★ Little Brown Jug
1
VS 4b
22m
2
4a
18m
3
5a
24m
Can be climbed as two pitches by linking P1 and P2 together. P1 can be linked into P2 and P3 of 'Doorpost' to create a 3-star "direct" route. FA: P H Biven & B M Biven, 1955 | 64m, 3 | Bosigran | ||
5c | ★ Little Chef | Portland | |||
HS UKT:5a | ★★ Tango Buttress
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Tactician
FA: J Lamb, D Armstrong & P Whillance, 1976 | 33m | Pembroke | ||
5c | ★★ Old Men Last Longer
| 15m | Wyndcliff Quarry | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ King Bee Crack
| 37m | Anglesey | ||
{FR} 5b | ★ Do Ixtlan
| Portland | |||
{FR} 5+ | ★ Excavator
| 30m | Peak District Limestone | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Maupassant
| 10m | Curbar Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Croton Oil
Follows a series of finger cracks to the loose flake (be gentle!) and top of the needle. Good gear and the best route at Rivelin. Abseil off the needle using a rusty chain or chipped notch (or both). | 12m | Rivelin Edge | ||
5 | ★ So Naughty
| 15m, 5 | Swanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Overhanging Groove | 17m | Almscliff | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★ Original Route
FA: I A RIchards, C F Holland & D E Piley, 1918 | 40m, 2 | Ogwen Valley Area | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Hercules
FA: J Williams & M Harber, 1978 | 33m | Pembroke | ||
{FR} 5+ | ★ Slumberland
| 12m | Peak District Limestone | ||
E1 UKT:5a | ★★ Namenlos
| 14m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Blizzard Ridge
| 14m | Rivelin Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ Padme
| 28m | Peak District Limestone | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Angel's Wall
A CALEY CLASSIC.A SOLO THE ONLY WAY TO TRY IT FA: ARTHUR DOLPHIN | 7m | Caley Crags | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Scratch Arête | 60m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Plexity
FA: Joe Brown | 21m | Millstone Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ The Laughing Cavaliers | 28m | Shorn cliff | ||
5+ | The War of the Wardens
FA: Mark Williams, 1994 | 10m | Swanage | ||
{FR} 5+ | ★ Talking Smack | Portland | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ The Loosener
FFA: B Newman, R Thomas & S Bancroft, 1980 | 21m | Pembroke | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Demon Wall | 10m | Almscliff | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★★ Outlook Slab
After staring up the crack between blocks (start of The Coign), climb the centre of the slab with horizontal cracks. FA: Martin Veale, 1978 | 16m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 5c | Don't Fear the Bleater
FA: Chris Newton-Goverd, 2002 | 10m, 7 | Cheddar | ||
{FR} 5+ | ★ Crack O'Dawn
Aim for the groove. things soon ease | 11m | Peak District Limestone | ||
5c | ★★ Pig's Nose
Ascend the notable arete using large holds until reaching the big ledge. From there, shift slightly to the left to access a weakness in the sizeable overhang above, and boldly proceed to haul oneself up using jugs to finish. | 12m | Kent | ||
{FR} 5 | ★ Men at Work
| 32m | Peak District Limestone | ||
5c | ★ Sting in the Tail | 11m | Portland | ||
{FB} 4C | ★ Black Arête
| 4m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 4C | ★★ Scoops Slab
| 4m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Pluto | 73m, 3 | Langdale | ||
5c | ★ Sodor
The second line of bolts on the slab between Rack and Pin to the left and The Mallard to the right. FA: Josie Ball, 2007 | 12m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
5c | ★ The Mallard
The third line of bolts on the slab between Sodor to the left and Polar Express to the right. FA: Josie Ball, 2007 | 12m, 6 | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Original Route
This is a stunning pitch on fantastic rock. Follow the obvious wandery groove with intermittent flakes and crack features. You can either go left at the bulge down low or direct and take E2. Truly one of the best in the Peak. | 35m | Peak District Limestone | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★★ Striptease | Tremadog Area | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ The Chant | 6m | Burbage Valley | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ C.M.C. Slab | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Brant Direct
Either continue up P2 of 'Brant' or belay on the right and abseil off. FA: P R J Harding, J I Disley, P R Hodgkinson & G Dyke, 1949 | 23m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
{FR} 5c | ★★ Troubled Waters | 10m | Swanage | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Bruvers
| 25m | Anglesey | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★ Tyrone | 18m | Lawrencefield Quarry | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★★ Bilberry Crack | 10m | Bamford Edge | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Lost Horizon | 39m | Baggy Point | ||
{FR} 5c | ★ I wish you heaven
| Wyndcliff Quarry | |||
{FR} 5 | ★ Latrine
| 16m | Peak District Limestone | ||
V0+ | ★★ Steep Side
| Stanage | |||
{FR} 5+ | Udderley
| 12m | Peak District Limestone | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ The Bitter Battle Tears | 26m | Shorn cliff | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Pedestal Crack | 14m | Froggatt Edge | ||
5c | ★ Slab
Not a slab climb at all, of course. Climb the crack and edge up the left side of the triangular slab. | 8m | Kent | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Kransic Crack Direct
| 20m | Borrowdale | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Fern Crack
| 16m | Stanage | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★ Leaning Wall Direct | 8m | Burbage Valley | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★★ Laceration
| 22m | Anglesey | ||
5b | ★ Deadwood Crack
Climb the obvious crack up to the big ledge. | 6m | Kent | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Climbers' Club Direct
1
HVS 5a
23m
2
4c
27m
one for the jamming master, a forceful couple of pitches that have taken a few scalps over the years.start beneath the hand crack that cuts through the overhang. | 50m, 2 | The Dewerstone | ||
{FR} 5+ | Morning Winpenny | 12m | Ban-y-Gor | ||
{FR} 5c | ★ Absent friends, here's to them | Portland | |||
HVS UKT:5a | Simian | Avon Gorge | |||
HVS UKT:5a | Chieftain
Steep corner crack left of the Butcher arete. | 25m | Pembroke | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Parker's Eliminate
| 14m | Hobson Moor Quarry | ||
E1 5b | ★★★ THE SPIDER | 40m | Chudleigh | ||
{FB} 4+ | Mini Crack
| Curbar Edge | |||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★★ Tigers Don't Cry | 20m | Shorn cliff | ||
{FR} 5 | ★ Mackerel
| Swanage | |||
{FR} 5+ | Wiggi and Mopoke's Excellent New Hilti | 20m | Portland | ||
HVS UKT:5a | ★★ Saul's Crack
Excellent & varied jamming with good protection makes this a coveted route. Climb the crack for what will be the first of many times. FA: Joe Brown, 1947 | 18m | Staffordshire | ||
VS UKT:5a | ★★ Birch Tree Wall
FA: Jack London 1928 | 20m | Black Rocks |