Routes in World for selected grade

Start at "D" mark.

Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'.

Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge. Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

1. 15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)

2. 15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay

3. 23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added 2016.

Updating previous description, there are now anchors and a full complement of ringbolts on this route.

It looks (December 2015) like the natural line here is sharing the beginning of Quirrel's Quarrel) to the top of the block then moving left and up (gear placements and bolts).

Ringbolts. The L rap ring on the anchor is now worn about a quarter through, still fine but may need replacement soonish. Until then, consider rotating it before loading so your rope wears on a different spot to extend its life.

Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B".

A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB.

Stickclip if you are short (tricky start). Ringbolts. There is a loose ~10kg block at halfway: keep people clear below and try not to dislodge it.

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

Follow R leaning corner and crack. Five U-bolts to a spicy move at the end. Lower-off. Similar style to Dreamcatcher at an easier grade.

Start left of the cave as per BD.

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

Quite classic and good fun. Climb the obvious corner on the left side of the wall. An awkward start then jamming to a little roof. A bit tricky but not too cruxy. Take care with gear in the glassy crack - cams have a habit of either skating out or walking in.

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

Scarily loose, should probably finish under the roof.

Bouldery start then left a bit, rightwards up yet another thin finish. Very popular warmup. Start: 3m right of Gash.

Most will agree, this climb is the best easy/moderate trad route at the Point and for miles around. Gear placement is amply available and the climbing consistent at the grade. Start in the middle of the dark south-facing wall to the right of the Man Overboard corner. Follow the sinuous crack as it slowly widens to hand size.

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of Muldoon.

Start: Start 2m R of Tantalus. Descend from DRRB at the top of Muldoon

Classic Frog climbing. Up the initial twin cracks with some difficulty to a ledge. Step L and up the single crack to a stance under a daunting roof. Sling the chock stone on the R in the wide crack, swallow hard and swing out and up the ladder of chock stones with bowel-quivering exposure! Rest your nerves in the body crack for a moment, travel into the depths of the crack, then squeeze up for a move or two until it is possible to step out onto the arete and face. Easily to the top.

Best easy route at this crag. Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

Short juggy corner.

Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD".

Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB.

Start 4m L of PN. Up past 5 RB's to Lower offs.

The 3rd route from the right, starting at the arête (Red Room).

Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.

1. 35m 17. Go up onto a terrace a few metres above ground level in the gully just right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Follow the crack up past the left side of the overhang at 25 metres and on up the flake continuation to chains (30m to gully).

2. 50m. Originally went to top but this pitch is rubbish so just rap off.

Climbs just right of the main arête. Cops morning sun.

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

The obvious flake crack on the wall facing Golden Fleece Wall.

Marked TW. Classic featured wall with awesome giant thread in the middle. Up past giant thread (don't thread in case it breaks), then up to clip-and-go lower-off. For the full value tick mantle out onto the top and belay off u-bolts a few metres back. Rebolted 2015.

The thin wall 2m right of Camelot.

On the left arete 1m left of PD. Up arete past 2 Ubolts to lower-off up and right.

Start by scrambling 10m up to broad ledge 30m R of 'Line Of Credit'. A DBB at the base of a line of FHs is found here.

1. 32m (17) Follow line of FHs up and diagonally R over steep headwall before trending back L to DBB on spacious ledge.

2. 38m (13) Up through typical Tibro slab. Ignore 1st DBB you come to - it's there purely to facilitate retreat on a 60m rope.

3. 35m (15) Continue up nice exposed slab to top. Again, ignore 1st DBB you come to.

From final DBB it's easy to scramble a few metres right into Cave 3:

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - Top of Zeitgeist scramble into Cave 3

then up over the scree shoulder & down, into the very large Cave 2 to join the 'Caves Route'. Scramble down through Cave 1 out right, to the DBB. Descent from here, via the 'Caves Route' consists of 3 raps = will get you down on a single 60m.

Descent back down Zeitgeist on a single 60m rope: 4 raps will get you to the bottom slab and then a scramble down to the ground: rap down to the first DBB, 5m above the 2nd belay, mid pitch 3.

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - First rap station from the top; pitch 3

From here, rap to the next DBB, mid pitch 2 - about 15m above the first belay station on the big ledge.

★★ Zeitgeist 17 - 2nd rap station = 15m above first belay on big ledge

Then a 15m rap to the big ledge, and pitch one belay.

From here, a full 30m rap will get you to the top of the slab, with some careful down scrambling to the ground.

NOTE: IT'S STILL 4 RAPS USING A SINGLE 70M!

Fantastic climb. The original route climbed the first pitch of Courage until above the grotty overhang and then traversed left. The route as described is vastly better. Start below the inset corner in recessed bay behind large Callitris pine.

1. 37m (17) Follow the corner for 17 metres, protection is spaced for first few metres. Move left at chalked-up weakness into a diagonal scooped line. Follow this to below roof and move left to terrace. DRB (35m rap to ground if required).

2. 30m (17) Pull through the first easy weakness on left side of overhangs. Traverse 3 metres right (stay low) and make an airy step across a gap. Take line leading straight up into awkward bottomless chimney. Easy chimney leads to large ledge, continue further 5m up to another large terrace. Scramble off left or climb short wall to base of French Crack.

Carrot bolts!

At the left hand end of Steep Wall on the face perpendicular to steep wall. Considered a grade 15 if you use the boulder to the left.

Up past FH then move L onto small ledge (FH). Pass two more FH's and up to anchor up R (shared with MM).

Start: Start: At base of gully below rounded arête.

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point. Finish direct to chains on R side of summit boulder, or slightly easier to L side of boulder. Please don't toprope direct off the chains as they see a lot of traffic.

Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

The original and classic easy sport route in the Glasshouse Mtns. Start about 15m R of 'Present And Accounted For' at pocketed water-worn runnel. If it has just rained don't bother - this route follows a waterfall groove! Most consider this a sandbag. 3 RBs, 2 FHs & 1 RB then long runout on easy slab to rap chain. Route name is based on Neil & Marty being absent from school on the day they did this. Who would have thought a simple case of truancy would lead to such enjoyment for climbers for years to come?!

The first route at The County (16/6/79). Very popular, and very classic. The obvious splitter hand crack. New lower-off from shackle on tree at top.

About 35m R of the main wall at a left facing orange corner. Easy start and up into nice corner. Pop out of the corner and up the nice headwall. All new RB's in 2014.

Rings. Left of the 'Grey Slab' down on the main track Short little thing up to the R end of the half-height vegetated ledge with hidden anchor.

A bouldery start, eases to good holds.

Line of U-bolts 0.5m right of Frolic. Finish on DRBB on Salubrious. If you use the Frolic crack at the start it knocks this down to a really nice grade 13ish.

Start: On ground level at far right end of small cave.

The right arete of the wall starting 2m right of Old Salt. Was originally climbed starting at Old Salt and traversing right across the wall (by Tim Davenport circa 2000). The direct start up the arete was added in 2017.

2 star hand jamming ... for about 3 moves.

The obvious hand crack to the ledge and then up the flared crack in the orange face above.

Makes a good second pitch to either of the two preceeding routes. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!

A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete. Finishes at single large U/staple.

Start: small corner at right end of wall, up and leftwards up scooped arete to double rings. 5 rings.

Start at the beginning of the gully, in the gap behind Minstrel Pinnacle. Good tricky and enjoyable crack climbing, but with some questionable rock.

A scene of several serious accidents over the past years. The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

1. An easy hand crack leads to the first of several ledges. Up the line of least resistance to a dark, tight v-groove. Up this with much grunting and difficulty. The gear in the groove is excellent, although it can be problematic to place due to the tight nature of the chimney and the positions you can get yourself into! Gear belay on top of the pillar.

2. Up the beautiful hand crack to a ledge system. Up easily to DBB.

Rap to the ground on two ropes, or stop at the Impulse anchor if required.

ACCESS: To locate the base of this climb head left of Slider gully for approx 50m till you hit the obvious inlet in rock. Solo up rock and scrub for 20m till you hit the base of the wall. Move left up 4th class for 15m till you're just left of the white streak. The route is the first route directly left of the white streak. Look for the first bolt about 2 metres off the ground. The climb starts here.

ABOUT: A neighbour to the somewhat more adventurous Burning Man, this climb offers a long adventure route that is great for beginners or those looking for a cruisy day in the mountains!

Originally starting further left and higher up, the FA was lead on head piece trad placements in what can only be described as a solid "adventure"! However, the start of the original climb didn't allow easy access and a better way was sought. Eventually a 4 pitch variant start was found just to the left of Burning Man which met with the original line on the exposed south face ridge. The route is fully equipped however you will need to sling a boulder for the top of pitch 8.

Take 10 draws and a couple of extenders.

As this is a new route beware of loose rock.

RETREAT You can rap the route with a 60m rope from the top of pitch 7. It is not advisable to rap from pitch 8 - either scramble up loose rocky path to tourist track or scramble down LHS of buttress to pitch 7 anchors and rap. Complete final rap to the base from an intermediate rap anchor on pitch two.

1. 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

2. 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

3. 25m 12 Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground up start of ridge.

4. 26m 12 Fun moves past the first hanger, then fantastic climbing up airy ridge to belay.

5. 28m 14 Up easy ground before trending right to anchor.

6. 28m 14 Straight up! Enjoy the funky moves over the pillar.

7. 28m 15 Head up past hanger, then scramble through a small patch of bush with option to sling tree (bolts follow after tree). Super fun moves up slab to final belay anchor.

8. 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

To exit, continue up the ridge (being mindful of the abundance of loose rocks) for another 40m to meet the tourist track where hikers will ask about your adventure in awe.

From the last ledge belay of Sweet Dreams take the left line of ringbolts up the blunt arete - either finish direct up the corner (trad) or traverse left at 15m into top pitch of Saccharine Nightmare (bolts).

1. 20m

2. 20m

3. 28m

4. 8m

5. 16m

6. 25m

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

The leftmost route on the wall. Follow the U bolts left toward the arete and then back slightly right to the anchors.

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

Great fun!! Straight up to ledge then jug up over easy lip and blast straight up.

Why?

Start: Right again near boulder.

Between 'Unzip' and 'Winkle' climb the face past 4 bolt runners to a rap station. An excellent warm up route. G.Phillips, Oct 95.

The obvious crack/corner line on the left of the face around left of Oxbow. The crux is at about 1/2 height, moving off the face and right facing corner and onto the arete of this corner. A critical cam (#1 [Red] BD Camalot in one orientation only) can be found to protect this move. Continue into the scoop above and follow the beautiful flake out right to a tricky exit move.

Carrots to top-out with 2 bolt belay.

Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR's in total.

Start: Start 2m right of OBB.

Extra bolt added in runout. Add a little spice (and interest) to the climb with a more direct start - you don't need to do the big right hand easy move if you work out a little sequence.

Start 2 metres left of Parents. Pull through the slot and ramble to the steep all. Keep right on the jugs for a fair grade. Finish at Parents lower offs.

Ridiculously popular.

Start: Start at the thin crack just R of 'Tootsie'.

Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader

Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.

Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off

Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled.

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs (on U-bolt) and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing U-bolts bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off (steel perma-biner). There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a perfect pocket to sling. .

Start at the L-most line of bolts on 'Flat Battery Wall'. Balance up the slab past 2 RBs to anchor. Quite run out.

Fun juggy lefthand arete of the buttress.

Great climb up some beautiful and exposed orange rock. Access the start of the climb by climbing 'Digit Crucifixion' or scramble up to large ledge from the right. Belay from DUBB. BR's have been replaced with hangers.

A metre or so to the right of LS.

A classic grunt up a great line with a tree at half height. Quite strenuous and difficult in places, but excellent protection is available throughout. Head R at the top. Originally graded 15! Has been the scene of several serious falls.

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

Pleasant arete. Most people start 1m R of the arête for a few metres, then move left. The gear is in some opinions "good, but spaced", but in others' opinions this route is quite dangerous to half height particularly now that the wire slots are getting worn thanks to the soft rock. Take a rack including a 4 Friend, and a bolt plate in case Rattler's top carrot looks tempting.

Start as for Hannibal, then follow the fixed hanger and ring bolts up and around the arete to rap station. The direct start through overlaps and headwall above have both been climbed at about 21.

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' bolting, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The apparent grade depends a lot on when you started climbing: if you started in the 60s it's be 10; 70s = 13, 80s = 14. This century somewhere between 16 and 20. The obvious left leaning chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chockstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose....

Start 3m L of 'Mars'. Marked "HN".

Follow the bolts straight up to DBB, trend slightly left to anchors. High first bolt, but easy climbing up to that point. Rebolted 2014.

Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs.

This is a classic sharp arete, with fairly sustained climbing up nicely textured rocks. All bolts are well-spaced. Some holds are a little shiny from use.

Climb the large face to the left of The South Face, tricky start leads onto easy climbing up the ledges.

Fun and the start is easier than it looks once you find the holds.

Blue Mountains trad multi-pitch classic (with zero bolts!). This is the major corner system just left of the steep orange buttress. Gets sun by 8:30am in winter. Original pitches are described here, but it’s better to combine pitches 1 & 2, and 3 & 4. Note that the topo above greatly foreshortens all but the first pitch.

1. 22m (17) Hard start to get out of shale band, then up narrow chimney and corner to stance below roof. You can throw your rope over the little tree 4 or 5 metres up and use it as a slightly exciting top rope anchor to mitigate the start being hard to protect.

2. 10m (17) Over roof and up lovely corner to belay either beneath block at stance with bird crap, or (better) on ledge 2m higher, left of block.

3. 25m (17) Negotiate blocks, then follow incredible steep corner and sloping shelf to belay in cave. The money pitch.

4. 6m (14) Traverse hard left and out to double carrot belay (taking care with thin ironstone plates). Watch out for abseilers! If you have linked the previous pitch into this one it can be worth building a trad anchor just below the top out to avoid heinous rope drag and then scrambling off (roped up) from here.

Easiest of the crag

The original toe destroyer! Bridge and chimney up the thin twin crack system to a stance at 1/3rd height. From there, jam like crazy to a weird grunty move getting round a bottleneck. Flop onto the ledge, suck in lots of air and continue motoring up the corner system above like a crazed madman on speed. Easily to the top. Rap possible off tree chain on a 70m rope.

The lower section has some cool pockety holds.

The wall right of Outside Space without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

Great, clean-cut corner just a few metres off the track. Take some big gear. Bolt anchor at the top.

Crux at the start giving the climb it's 17 rating. Using the small holds get to the larger block above to make the second clip. Quite well protected and easy climbing after the start.

Start at right end of cave, at right side of small trees sitting against the rock, 4m R of Sideline Jack. Up. Another nice warmup.

Start: 2m left of PN.

Haul onto wall, then edge up arete passing 4 RBs. Double RB lower off.

Easy climbing on big holds, very fun on great rock.