Routes in Staffordshire for selected grade

Walk up the diagonal break rightwards to access the arete and finish up this in a fine position.

Climb the groove then make an awkward move rightwards towards a better finish up the wide crack.

The wall and pockets left of the groove.

From a platform at the foot of the buttress, follow the large flake to a platform. The flake and crack above lead to a ledge. Step right and climb an awkward thin crack.

The crack halfway up the stairs to the Upper Tier.

The steep diagonal crack in the face.

Follow the initial corner of Valkyrie right to the top.

The narrowing crack leading to an open groove up and right is a less smelly experience than you might be expecting. Once past the crucial overhang, things ease dramatically.

Climb the awkward crack rising from the recess and head into the groove above. A successful ascent will leave you beached and battered below the final section of Lucas Chimney. A great route for masochists!

A well-rounded classic though too much of a struggle to be a real three star outing. The striking hanging fissure has a brace of awkward starts (easiest on the left) and a wide awkward exit. A couple of tricky-to-thread chockstones help protect the main difficulties of the route.

The tricky bulging crack-line was named after a bet that the crag was worked out; well it wasn't forty years ago and it probably isn't now!

L of bobbles

arête on L side

R of arête

L line on slab

slab from shallow crack

crack and sidewall

crack

arête

Starting at the spikey jug of Charlie's Overhang, traverse right via a few tricky moves to finish on the large hold on the overhang of Praying Mantel Start

The middle of the slab, via flakes. A sit-start gives a f6B alternative.

An awkward start gains access to the lower rising line. Excellent.

Starting low on the big jug opposite Bridget (on the Rhynose buttress) traverse right using the undercut travelling up and around the back of the overhanging arête.

Climb rightwards through the lower bulges then continue up the easier flaky wall above.

Access the ramp with difficulty, sneak left then crawl back along the break to reach relief in the easy chimney. Inelegant fun.

The thin crack is quite tricky.