Showing all 41 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Oak Creek Canyon Mount Wilson East Face | ||||||
5.10c 5.10c IV | ★★ Inti Watana - with Hanna Kallweit | 600m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
||||||
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Sunny and Steep Crag | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Sport Chimney - with Hanna Kallweit | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Structured chimneys are the best. Much better than expected and the coldest route at the wall.
|
||||||
5.10a | ★ Edward Silverhands - with Hanna Kallweit | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Good warmup pump.
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Mr. Choad's Wild Ride - with Hanna Kallweit | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Freaking good face climb. Long and sustained with two distinct cruxes.
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Cirque du Soleil - with Hanna Kallweit | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty fun route. If you read it right, much easier than the neighbor Mr. Chad. Great face climbing.
|
||||||
Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Sandstone Quarry Running Man Wall Area Stratocaster Wall | ||||||
5.11 5.11 PG13 | ★★ Marshall Amp - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | 32m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two overhanging harder sections at the beginning, afterwards 5.8 on huge jugs up to the anchor with 5m bolt distances. Great fun.
|
||||||
★★★ Stratocaster - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pumpy homogenous slightly overhanging climb with several cruxes. What a great line.
|
||||||
Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Juniper Canyon Wall of Cracks | ||||||
5.12a |
★★★ Cloud Tower
- with
Hanna Kallweit
| 270m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty and varied climb!
Starting easy with some 5.8-5.10 pitches, that offer nice climbing. Had to rest twice in the crux pitch. Tricky and difficult to read but can be very well protected. Pitch 5 (the offwidth) is very nice, due to the fact that not really any offwidth technique is needed. The squeeze chimney P6 was fun and much less crazy than expected. The last pitch ends with a pumpy right facing corner with a mix of small to big hands and some overhanging sections. Massive pump. |
||||||
Tue 25th Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Black Velvet Canyon Whisky Peak | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Triassic Sands - with Hanna Kallweit | 100m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great structures. Beginners crack climbing. Rappelled after P3 instead of going all the way to the top and walk off.
|
||||||
5.11 5.11c IV | ★★ Ixtalan - with Hanna Kallweit | ★ Good | ||||
Followed pitch 1-3. First pitch is very hard for 5.11b. 2nd is cool, but weird pro. The offwidth is short but hard without the proper technique.
|
||||||
5.10 | ★★ Sand Felipe - with Hanna Kallweit | 40m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Nice face climb with good pro.
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Second Pullout The Gallery | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Yaak Crack - with Hanna Kallweit | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell before the anchor in the 1st go. Hard section from the start to the second bolt, afterwards easier and small holds just before the anchor. It's possible to clip the draw in the middle from a hand jam in the crack. 👌
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Second Pullout Wall of Confusion | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Super Guide - with Steffi | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good route. In the shade in the morning. Two short cruxes with good rests in between. Nice pockets.
|
||||||
5.10c | ★★ American Sportsman - with Steffi | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Nice warmup on crimps.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Fear and Loathing III - with Steffi | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go. Steep, pumpy fun climbing mostly on good jugs. The crux was to move up from the side / underling before the wall gets less steep.
|
||||||
Fri 21st Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon | ||||||
Along Road 211 4x4 Wall | ||||||
5.11- | ★★★ 4x4 - with Hanna Kallweit | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Funny moves in the roof with big hands/fist jams that lead me into some cool layback moves to the anchor.
|
||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Hookers 'n Blow - with Hanna Kallweit | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
From small hands to good hands with a funny pod (#4-#5) before the anchor.
|
||||||
5.10d | ★ Town - with Hanna Kallweit | 21m | ★ Good | |||
Sketchy.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ Country - with Hanna Kallweit | 21m | ★ Good | |||
Cool small to good hand jams.
|
||||||
Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon | ||||||
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall | ||||||
5.11- | ★★★ Scarface - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The classic photo route. Couldn't get through the small hands section in the flash go.
|
||||||
Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon | ||||||
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Generic Crack - with Hanna Kallweit | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did this one in 2019 with a limited amount of gear. This time we got enough #2s and I was happy to let it. Classic route with two wider pods, that are not so easy to get in, but offer good rests.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Binou's Crack - with Hanna Kallweit | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Quick tr at the end of the day. One spicy move before you reach the hand jams.
|
||||||
Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon | ||||||
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Crack Attack - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
This is such a great climb. Starts with some offwidth, into a sketchy dihedral to a cool overhanging section and ends with a beautiful crack with small hands and a good finger lock. Must do.
|
||||||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Island in the Sky Mesa | ||||||
Taylor Canyon Moses | ||||||
5.11d 5.11d IV | ★★★ Primrose Dihedrals - with Andy F | 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Classic memorable route up this unbelievably thin desert tower. Due to no suitable 4WD we chose the long approach via alcove spring trail (10km one way) but it was definitely worth the hike! Bypassed first pitch with the 5.8 traverse from the notch and cruised up.
Lead pitch 1 (5.8), 3 (5.10), 5 (5.9) Follow free pitch 2 (5.10+), 4 (5.10+), 7+8 (5.10) A0 pitch 6 (5.11+ offwidth), 6 bolts Great day out in this quiet, remote, and beautiful place. |
||||||
Fri 14th Oct 2022 - Potash Road | ||||||
Long Canyon Maverick Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Hot Toddy - with Hanna Kallweit | 24m | ★ Good | |||
Big hands corner. Gets easier at the top.
|
||||||
5.11+ | ★★ Miss Kitty Likes It That Way - with Hanna Kallweit | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route that gets gradually harder. Good hands from the start, ends in a thin hands section with limited place for the feet. Feel before the anchor.
|
||||||
5.11a 5.11a I | ★★★ Gunsmoke - with Hanna Kallweit | 34m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The best crack climb I tried in the moab area. Very versatile with changing styles from big hands, hands to a fingery corner section at the top. Needed to rest twice or so.
|
||||||
Thu 13th Oct 2022 - Fisher Towers | ||||||
Ancient Art | ||||||
5.10 | ★★★ Stolen Chimney - with Hanna Kallweit | 95m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
You do this route because of the last pitch. The rest is a rather dirty approach. Epic scenery on the top pitch with great exposure.
|
||||||
Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Castle Valley | ||||||
The Rectory | ||||||
5.11a |
★★★ Fine Jade
- with
Hanna Kallweit
| 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome route on the south face of the rectory. Great moves on finger cracks and good hands. The first pitch gets you pumped directly with an overhanging hand crack. P3 is the crux pitch, with a 2m finger crack. Must do.
|
||||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Castle Valley | ||||||
Castleton Tower | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ North Face with Webster Variation - with Andi F. | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great shady route.
P1: we took the right start. Good hands, short overhang and pumpy layback corner to the first belay. P2: overhanging hands crack, easy afterwards. P3: offwidth section (5.10), fist crack sand offwidth for another 20m. Short chimney to the top. |
||||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Potash Road | ||||||
Wall Street Reflector Post #5 | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ 30 Seconds Over Potash - with Steffi | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Lucy In The Sky With Potash - with Steffi | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Quite inhomogeneous route with some tricky moves in the middle. Cimbable if you stay in the crack and don't take the arete on the right.
|
||||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Zion National Park | ||||||
Kolob Canyon Namaste Wall | ||||||
5.12b 5.12b/c | ★★★ Huecos Rancheros - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | 42m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
40m of steep jugs with a crimpy finish.
|
||||||
5.11a 5.11a/b | ★★★ Dost Mitra - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | 32m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool jugs to cruise up to the big hole to get a good rest, easy afterwards. A 60m rope brings you down.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Namaste - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | 38m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Massive warmup pump, should have done Dost Misread before. Hardest moves before the third bolt, afterwards you just have to keep it together and shake out the pump at the huge jugs.
|
||||||
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Zion National Park | ||||||
Upper Zion Canyon Red Arch Mountain North Face | ||||||
5.11+ |
★★★ Shune's Buttress
- with
Hanna Kallweit
| 240m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The best route in Zion!
Pitch 1 starts with 5.11+ strenuous lieack/finger corner, massive warmup pump. Pitch 2, short steep 5.9 to the next ledge. Linked 3-5 in one huge chimney/off-width pitch (coming out of the chimney is the hardest, A0 with sling from above). Pitch 6 starts with a little down-climbing then up to a bolt and past a crimpy 5.11- traverse. Best to ignore the bolted belay and rather build one around the arete at the base of the crack. Steep fingers to hand through the 5.11+ money pitch to a one bolt belay with excellent #1 as back-up. Last long 5.9 pitch to the top. |
||||||
Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Zion National Park | ||||||
Upper Zion Canyon Moonlight Buttress | ||||||
5.9 C1 5.12d V | ★★★ Moonlight Buttress - with Hanna Kallweit | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Clean aid ascent of moonlight buttress (8h from base to top). What a great line! Lead P1, P3,P4, Follow P2,P5, 6+7, 8+9.
|
||||||
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Red Rock | ||||||
Pine Creek Canyon Magic Mountain Magic Triangle Area | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Chocolate Flakes - with Andi | 49m | ★★ Very Good | |||
L1: 5.8 some steeper moves in a dihedral and scrambling. (Flash follow)
L2: 5.10a some pumpy moves at the overhanging flake, afterwards easier, juggy and wonderful. (os)
L3: 5.10d the chocolate flake, a corner crack with some hand and finger jams. (Flash follow)
L4: 5.10a, relatively ready pitch. Starts steep on good holds. 2m of a chicken wing offwidth to reach some good holds.
L5: 5.9-5.10a the additional freestyle pitch. From the end of the climb you can see a cool small hands crack on the left and far away another rappel. Always following the crack finishing on the top right of the rappel. (os)
|
||||||
Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Mount Charleston | ||||||
Robber's Roost | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Highwayman - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome route with crimpy crux moves before the anchor.
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ The Great Train Robbery - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Polished but cool.
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★ Bubblicious - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd go. Nice steep face climbing.
|
Showing all 41 ascents.
Great face climb on super structured solid sandstone. Cruised the route except waiting for some hours because of a slow party in front.
Rappelled within 1h.