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Ascents in United States of America by ToxicD

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Showing all 41 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Oak Creek Canyon Mount Wilson East Face
5.10c 5.10c IV Inti Watana - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 600m Very Good
Lead pitches 3+4,6,8+9,12. Linking pitches 3+4 with 60m ropes requires some meters of simul climbing!

Great face climb on super structured solid sandstone. Cruised the route except waiting for some hours because of a slow party in front.

Rappelled within 1h.

 
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Sunny and Steep Crag
5.8 The Sport Chimney - with Hanna Kallweit Sport 21m Very Good
Structured chimneys are the best. Much better than expected and the coldest route at the wall.

 
5.10a Edward Silverhands - with Hanna Kallweit Sport 9m, 4 Good
Good warmup pump.

 
5.11b Mr. Choad's Wild Ride - with Hanna Kallweit Sport 32m Classic
Freaking good face climb. Long and sustained with two distinct cruxes.

 
5.11b Cirque du Soleil - with Hanna Kallweit Sport 32m Very Good
Pretty fun route. If you read it right, much easier than the neighbor Mr. Chad. Great face climbing.

 
Thu 27th Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Sandstone Quarry Running Man Wall Area Stratocaster Wall
5.11 5.11 PG13 Marshall Amp - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport 32m, 8 Very Good
Two overhanging harder sections at the beginning, afterwards 5.8 on huge jugs up to the anchor with 5m bolt distances. Great fun.

 
Stratocaster - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport 35m Classic
Pumpy homogenous slightly overhanging climb with several cruxes. What a great line.

 
Wed 26th Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Juniper Canyon Wall of Cracks
5.12a Cloud Tower - with Hanna Kallweit
1 5.8 150' lead by Hanna Kallweit
2 5.9 100' lead by ToxicD
3 5.10 150' lead by Hanna Kallweit
4 5.12a 120' lead by Hanna Kallweit
5 5.10 140' lead by ToxicD
6 5.8 60' lead by Hanna Kallweit
7 5.11d 160' lead by Hanna Kallweit
Trad 270m Classic
Pretty and varied climb!

Starting easy with some 5.8-5.10 pitches, that offer nice climbing. Had to rest twice in the crux pitch. Tricky and difficult to read but can be very well protected. Pitch 5 (the offwidth) is very nice, due to the fact that not really any offwidth technique is needed. The squeeze chimney P6 was fun and much less crazy than expected. The last pitch ends with a pumpy right facing corner with a mix of small to big hands and some overhanging sections. Massive pump.

 
Tue 25th Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Black Velvet Canyon Whisky Peak
5.10a Triassic Sands - with Hanna Kallweit
1 5.8 100m lead by ToxicD
2 5.10a lead by Hanna Kallweit
3 5.8 lead by ToxicD
Mixed trad 100m, 2 Classic
Great structures. Beginners crack climbing. Rappelled after P3 instead of going all the way to the top and walk off.

 
5.11 5.11c IV Ixtalan - with Hanna Kallweit Trad Good
Followed pitch 1-3. First pitch is very hard for 5.11b. 2nd is cool, but weird pro. The offwidth is short but hard without the proper technique.

 
5.10 Sand Felipe - with Hanna Kallweit Sport 40m, 16 Good
Nice face climb with good pro.

 
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Second Pullout The Gallery
5.11c Yaak Crack - with Hanna Kallweit Sport 15m Classic
Fell before the anchor in the 1st go. Hard section from the start to the second bolt, afterwards easier and small holds just before the anchor. It's possible to clip the draw in the middle from a hand jam in the crack. 👌

 
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Second Pullout Wall of Confusion
5.11a Super Guide - with Steffi Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
Good route. In the shade in the morning. Two short cruxes with good rests in between. Nice pockets.

 
5.10c American Sportsman - with Steffi Sport 15m Good
Nice warmup on crimps.

 
5.12a Fear and Loathing III - with Steffi Sport 18m, 9 Classic
2nd go. Steep, pumpy fun climbing mostly on good jugs. The crux was to move up from the side / underling before the wall gets less steep.

 
Fri 21st Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Road 211 4x4 Wall
5.11- 4x4 - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 25m Classic
Funny moves in the roof with big hands/fist jams that lead me into some cool layback moves to the anchor.

 
5.10+ Hookers 'n Blow - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 24m Very Good
From small hands to good hands with a funny pod (#4-#5) before the anchor.

 
5.10d Town - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 21m Good
Sketchy.

 
5.10b Country - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 21m Good
Cool small to good hand jams.

 
Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Road 211 Scarface Wall
5.11- Scarface - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Trad 20m Classic
The classic photo route. Couldn't get through the small hands section in the flash go.

 
Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Road 211 Donnelly Canyon
5.9 Generic Crack - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 33m Classic
Did this one in 2019 with a limited amount of gear. This time we got enough #2s and I was happy to let it. Classic route with two wider pods, that are not so easy to get in, but offer good rests.

 
5.9 Binou's Crack - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 16m Good
Quick tr at the end of the day. One spicy move before you reach the hand jams.

 
Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Indian Creek Canyon
Along Road 211 Battle of the Bulge Buttress
5.11a Crack Attack - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Trad Mega Classic
This is such a great climb. Starts with some offwidth, into a sketchy dihedral to a cool overhanging section and ends with a beautiful crack with small hands and a good finger lock. Must do.

 
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Island in the Sky Mesa
Taylor Canyon Moses
5.11d 5.11d IV Primrose Dihedrals - with Andy F Alpine 170m Mega Classic
Classic memorable route up this unbelievably thin desert tower. Due to no suitable 4WD we chose the long approach via alcove spring trail (10km one way) but it was definitely worth the hike! Bypassed first pitch with the 5.8 traverse from the notch and cruised up.

Lead pitch 1 (5.8), 3 (5.10), 5 (5.9) Follow free pitch 2 (5.10+), 4 (5.10+), 7+8 (5.10) A0 pitch 6 (5.11+ offwidth), 6 bolts

Great day out in this quiet, remote, and beautiful place.

 
Fri 14th Oct 2022 - Potash Road
Long Canyon Maverick Buttress
5.10b Hot Toddy - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 24m Good
Big hands corner. Gets easier at the top.

 
5.11+ Miss Kitty Likes It That Way - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 24m Very Good
Cool route that gets gradually harder. Good hands from the start, ends in a thin hands section with limited place for the feet. Feel before the anchor.

 
5.11a 5.11a I Gunsmoke - with Hanna Kallweit Trad 34m Mega Classic
The best crack climb I tried in the moab area. Very versatile with changing styles from big hands, hands to a fingery corner section at the top. Needed to rest twice or so.

 
Thu 13th Oct 2022 - Fisher Towers
Ancient Art
5.10 Stolen Chimney - with Hanna Kallweit
1 5.10 35m lead by ToxicD
2 5.8 30m lead by ToxicD
3 5.10 10m lead by ToxicD
4 5.8 20m lead by ToxicD
Mixed trad 95m, 12 Very Good
You do this route because of the last pitch. The rest is a rather dirty approach. Epic scenery on the top pitch with great exposure.

 
Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Castle Valley
The Rectory
5.11a Fine Jade - with Hanna Kallweit
1 5.11a 375ft lead by Hanna Kallweit
2 5.10 lead by ToxicD
3 5.11a lead by Hanna Kallweit
4 5.9 lead by ToxicD
5 5.7 lead by Hanna Kallweit
Trad 110m Classic
Awesome route on the south face of the rectory. Great moves on finger cracks and good hands. The first pitch gets you pumped directly with an overhanging hand crack. P3 is the crux pitch, with a 2m finger crack. Must do.

 
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Castle Valley
Castleton Tower
5.11a North Face with Webster Variation - with Andi F.
1 5.11a 400ft lead by Andi F.
2 5.10b lead by ToxicD
3 5.10d lead by Andi F.
Trad 120m Classic
Great shady route.

P1: we took the right start. Good hands, short overhang and pumpy layback corner to the first belay. P2: overhanging hands crack, easy afterwards. P3: offwidth section (5.10), fist crack sand offwidth for another 20m. Short chimney to the top.

 
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Potash Road
Wall Street Reflector Post #5
5.8 30 Seconds Over Potash - with Steffi Trad 21m Very Good
5.10a Lucy In The Sky With Potash - with Steffi Trad 25m Good
Quite inhomogeneous route with some tricky moves in the middle. Cimbable if you stay in the crack and don't take the arete on the right.

 
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Zion National Park
Kolob Canyon Namaste Wall
5.12b 5.12b/c Huecos Rancheros - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport 42m, 15 Very Good
40m of steep jugs with a crimpy finish.

 
5.11a 5.11a/b Dost Mitra - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport 32m, 10 Very Good
Cool jugs to cruise up to the big hole to get a good rest, easy afterwards. A 60m rope brings you down.

 
5.12a Namaste - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport 38m, 14 Very Good
Massive warmup pump, should have done Dost Misread before. Hardest moves before the third bolt, afterwards you just have to keep it together and shake out the pump at the huge jugs.

 
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Zion National Park
Upper Zion Canyon Red Arch Mountain North Face
5.11+ Shune's Buttress - with Hanna Kallweit
1 5.11+ 40m lead by Hanna Kallweit
2 5.9 20m lead by ToxicD
3 5.10 20m lead by Hanna Kallweit
4 5.10 25m lead by Hanna Kallweit
5 5.9 25m lead by Hanna Kallweit
6 5.11- 15m lead by Hanna Kallweit
7 5.11+ 40m lead by Hanna Kallweit
8 5.9 55m lead by ToxicD
Trad 240m Mega Classic
The best route in Zion!

Pitch 1 starts with 5.11+ strenuous lieack/finger corner, massive warmup pump. Pitch 2, short steep 5.9 to the next ledge. Linked 3-5 in one huge chimney/off-width pitch (coming out of the chimney is the hardest, A0 with sling from above). Pitch 6 starts with a little down-climbing then up to a bolt and past a crimpy 5.11- traverse. Best to ignore the bolted belay and rather build one around the arete at the base of the crack. Steep fingers to hand through the 5.11+ money pitch to a one bolt belay with excellent #1 as back-up. Last long 5.9 pitch to the top.

 
Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Zion National Park
Upper Zion Canyon Moonlight Buttress
5.9 C1 5.12d V Moonlight Buttress - with Hanna Kallweit Trad Mega Classic
Clean aid ascent of moonlight buttress (8h from base to top). What a great line! Lead P1, P3,P4, Follow P2,P5, 6+7, 8+9.

 
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Red Rock
Pine Creek Canyon Magic Mountain Magic Triangle Area
5.10+ Chocolate Flakes - with Andi Trad 49m Very Good
L1: 5.8 some steeper moves in a dihedral and scrambling. (Flash follow) L2: 5.10a some pumpy moves at the overhanging flake, afterwards easier, juggy and wonderful. (os) L3: 5.10d the chocolate flake, a corner crack with some hand and finger jams. (Flash follow) L4: 5.10a, relatively ready pitch. Starts steep on good holds. 2m of a chicken wing offwidth to reach some good holds. L5: 5.9-5.10a the additional freestyle pitch. From the end of the climb you can see a cool small hands crack on the left and far away another rappel. Always following the crack finishing on the top right of the rappel. (os)

 
Sat 1st Oct 2022 - Mount Charleston
Robber's Roost
5.12a Highwayman - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport 16m, 9 Classic
Awesome route with crimpy crux moves before the anchor.

 
5.11b The Great Train Robbery - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport Very Good
Polished but cool.

 
5.11d Bubblicious - with Hanna Kallweit, Steffi Sport Very Good
2nd go. Nice steep face climbing.

 

Showing all 41 ascents.

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