Ascents in California

Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous

First route at Tahquitz! Led all pitches. Sandbagged af. "Downclimb" first requires a 100 ft friction slab up climb 😅 and then a tricky descent on a v steep gulley.

Led all pitches! The downclimb is a trip -- first you friction slab 100 feet and then find a windy path to the right for a steep down hike/climb.

Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.

I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner

Sick undercling traverse on slabby terrain

5.11 friction slab can't possibly exist. This thing had no hand holds the whole way, every foot slip just resulted in a good scare but then your foot just sticks to the next bit of nothing it can find

Did the 5.10C variation and finished at the anchors of B.E.G

That was great. Inspiring to climb on this piece of history (FA in 1952 by Robbins/Wilson, and the first 5.9 in the country!).

P1: Engaging boulder start with almost no protection, crux just below the elephant ear (great feature). I found the start crux to be not the first few moves, but instead reaching the crack by establishing on the slab properly.

P2: 20m of continuous laybacking, initially with some good mini-ledges for rest, then nothing on the last ~12m. Also jammable if you like offwidths. I laybacked (guns > technique I guess)

P3: Interesting mix of grovel, chimney and unprotected slab moves. Rap anchor or continue to the top. Moving onto the slab after chimneying is spicy on lead!

Oof. Too much after climbing Open Book before. Feet hurting like hell and it was also really hot. I still feel insecure on steeper fingercracks and especially felt so today. Needed one hang above the tree, clean until there with the crux for me being getting fully established in the crack.

Came into this route via Coffin Nail. Pulling the Horn was great, some crazy exposure there.

5.8 on Mountain Proj, which is surely more accurate. Great climbing on the second pitch. New BD gloves came in handy.

Rope was getting in the way

Sick OW to #6 - definitely not X let alone R rated, not sure why it says that here?

Fuck wideboyz crack gloves, would be better off using banana peels strapped onto the back of your hands with duck tape

I must've started too high or this is truly a one move 12a that I bypassed the Crux of? Definitely on the right line according to MP but felt way too easy for 12a

Post swim arvo lap

Did a bunch of v0s and a 2 that aren't on thecrag so I'm ticking this v1 to make myself feel good

All jugs