Redwood Coast Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Hard Landin' Brandon Brendan Heywood rick Simon Dale Campbell Gome Kai Ryan Reger Marc dM Colton Van Dorpe Jason Hardrath

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Redwood Coast 184 in Crag
- 1.1. Moonstone Beach 52 routes in Crag
  - 1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock 8 routes in Sector
  - 1.1.2. Karen Rock 21 routes in Sector
  - 1.1.3. North Rocks 23 routes in Sector
- 1.2. Houda Point 31 routes in Crag
- 1.3. Luffenholtz Beach 15 routes in Crag
- 1.4. Promontory 29 routes in Crag
  - 1.4.1. Main Wall 13 routes in Sector
  - 1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder 6 routes in Sector
  - 1.4.3. Exploding Energy Shard Boulder 3 routes in Sector
  - 1.4.4. Puff Boulder 7 routes in Sector
- 1.5. Footsteps 15 routes in Crag
  - 1.5.1. North Rock 11 routes in Cliff
    - 1.5.1.1. South Face 6 routes in Sector
    - 1.5.1.2. East Face 1 routes in Sector
  - 1.5.2. South Rock 3 routes in Cliff
- 1.6. Patrick's Point / Sue-Meg State Park 40 routes in Crag
  - 1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock 13 routes in Cliff
  - 1.6.2. Wedding Rock Area 18 routes in Cliff
    - 1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks 9 routes in Sector
    - 1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock 6 routes in Sector
    - 1.6.2.3. Black Rock 3 routes in Sector
  - 1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall 7 routes in Cliff
  - 1.6.4. Mussel Rock 1 routes in Cliff
  - 1.6.5. Lookout Rock 1 routes in Cliff
- 1.7. Lost Rocks 2 routes in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Redwood Coast

5 4 7 6 3 2 1

1 Moonstone Beach 2 Houda Point 3 Luffenholtz Beach 4 Promontory 5 Footsteps 6 Patrick's Point 7 Lost Rocks

Summary:

Seasonality

184 routes in Crag

Bouldering, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.357847, -124.093770

1.1. Moonstone Beach

3 2 1

1 Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock 2 Karen Rock 3 North Rocks

Summary:

Seasonality

52 routes in Crag

Top roping, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.028720, -124.112115

1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock

Summary:: 8 routes in Sector

Bouldering and Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.029091, -124.111891

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	★★ Northeast Arête 5.9 or highball V0 R. Bolted anchor accessed by scrambling up the SW corner.	5.9	Top rope 20ft
2	★ Northeast Arête, Left 5.9 or highball V0 R. Stay left of the arête for this variation.	5.9	Top rope 20ft
3	★ Moonstone Traverse Traverse the entire base of Flat Top Rock.	V4	Boulder
4	★ Northwest Arête	V0	Boulder 20ft
5	★★★ Witches Gathering	V9	Boulder 18ft
6	★★ East Face Left	V0	Boulder 12ft
7	★ East Face Right	V1	Boulder 15ft
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
8	★★ The Telephone Booth V4 variation avoids holds to the left.	V3	Boulder

1.1.2. Karen Rock

Summary:: 21 routes in Sector

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.030163, -124.112308

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	★ Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty	5.10d	Top rope 40ft
2	★ Hoblet Roof	5.13a	Top rope 35ft
3	★★ Lizard Head	5.10d	Top rope 40ft
4	★★ Karen Crack Three bolt anchor for top roping.	5.8	Trad 60ft
5	★★ Skyhook Dyno to the ledge, then finish on Karen Crack or the Regular Route.	5.11b	Top rope 60ft
6	★ Center Face	5.11-	Top rope 60ft
7	★★ Standard Route	5.9	Top rope 60ft
8	★★★ Urchin Variation on the Standard Route.	5.10c	Top rope 60ft
9	★★ Unnamed 5.11	5.11	Top rope 60ft
10	★★ Dyno-Soar	5.11	Top rope 60ft
11	★★ Buckhorn Bulge Variation to Assembly Line.	5.12-	Top rope 60ft
12	★★ Assembly Line	5.11a	Top rope 60ft
13	Groveling Gibsters	5.11b	Top rope 60ft
14	Surf Nazi FA: Adam Wanden	5.13	Top rope 55ft
15	★★★ Nightmare	5.12a	Top rope 55ft
16	★★ Dream Theme Three bolt anchor is difficult to safely access. Be careful when setting up a top rope.	5.11c	Top rope 55ft
17	Don't Look Back FA: Doug Lafarge	5.12d	Top rope 55ft
18	Look No More		Top ropeProject 55ft
19	Look Again	5.13	Top rope 50ft
20	Moonstoner 5.12a if you avoid the arête.	5.11	Top rope 55ft
21	★★ Karen Rock Traverse Usually left to right; also done right to left.	V4	Boulder

1.1.3. North Rocks

Summary:: 23 routes in Sector

Bouldering, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.031505, -124.113222

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	★★ North Triangle Left Sit start.	V1	Boulder
2	★★ North Triangle Right Sit start.	V3	Boulder
3	★★ South Triangle Left Sit start.	V2	Boulder
4	★★ South Triangle Right Stand start, dyno to the top. V3 variation starts on lower holds.	V1	Boulder
5	★★ The Moonstone Sit start.	V4	Boulder
6	★ Unnamed V5 Sit start. Right of Moonstone.	V5	Boulder
7	Unnamed V3	V3	Boulder
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
8	★★ Leviathan Traverse Traverse the entire base in either direction. FFA: Eric Chemello	V7	Boulder
9	Unnamed 5.10	5.10	Top rope 30ft
10	Hoka Lugi FFA: Tim Wilhelmi	5.12a	Top rope 30ft
11	★★ Sticked Wiffy FFA: Tim Wilhelmi, 1991	5.12b	Top rope 30ft
12	Unnamed 5.12	5.12c	Top rope 30ft
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
13	★ Pyramid Rock South Face Follow the steepest line up the south face of the greenstone pyramid, straight up to the anchors (a new bolt and a rusty ring bolt).	5.9	Top rope 30ft
14	★ Pyramid Rock Traverse Traverse the slabby south face of Pyramid Rock.	VB	Boulder
15	★ Greenstone Traverse	V0-	Boulder
16	★★ Launch Toast 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Tim Wilhelmi	5.11d	Sport 40ft, 6
17	★★★ North Crack / No Time	5.10b	Trad 40ft
18	Tea Time FA: Matthias Holladay	5.10b A1	Aid 40ft
19	★★★ Thank You Thighmaster FFA: Zacharias Miller	5.13a	Sport 40ft, 5
20	Holladay Traverse FFA: Matthias Holladay	5.10	Unknown 35ft
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
21	★★ Moonwalk Stand start. V6 sit start.	V5	Boulder
22	★ Smack Sit start.	V4	Boulder
23	Unknown Some has been working this. It looks hard.		Boulder

1.2. Houda Point

Summary:

Seasonality

31 routes in Crag

<5 min Metamorphic Sandstone Low tide

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.035693, -124.118387

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Aquilla Long R to L traverse of the wall.	V10	Boulder
2	★★★ Houdini Splitter crack leads to titanium glue-ins. Highball, or can be led with gear.	5.12b V5	Trad
3	★ Jugs Arête Arête up the left side of the Jugs boulder.	V1	Boulder
4	★ Unnamed Face Climb straight up the face between Jugs Arête and Hole In One.	V1	Boulder 12ft
5	★★ Hole in One Climb straight up the face a few feet left of She's Got Jugs.	V1	Boulder 12ft
6	★★ Jugs Cave Cave start to She's Got Jugs.	V4	Boulder 14ft
7	★★ Jugs Cave Direct Cave start, direct finish to She's Got Jugs.	V3	Boulder 14ft
8	★★★ She's Got Jugs	V2	Boulder 15ft
9	★★ Jug Face	V1 R	Boulder
10	★ Surf Perch Starts SW of She's Got Jugs. Traverse L to R.	V2	Boulder 30ft
11	★ Pangaea	V1	Boulder
12	Continental Drift	V0+	Boulder
13	Mantle Me Mike Sit start.	V0+	Boulder
14	★ North Face of the Boot	V1	Boulder 15ft
15	★ Old Mother Hubbard / The Boot Traverse Traverse the base of The Shoe / The Boot.	V0	Boulder 90ft
16	Can't Touch This Sit start on west face. Holds on south face are off.	V0+	Boulder
17	★★ Chuh Sit start.	V2	Boulder
18	★ Shark Fin Arête	V0	Boulder 15ft
19	★ Whino Sit start.	V1	Boulder
20	★ Wave Runner Traverse V2 if traversing under Whino.	V1	Boulder
21	★ Velvet Fog	V2	Boulder
22	★ Blade Runner	V1	Boulder
23	★ Running Man Sit start.	V3	Boulder
24	★★ Cranc Sit start. FFA: Randy Puro, 1999	V6	Boulder
25	★ High Tide Runner FFA: Randy Puro, 1999	V6	Boulder
26	Riptide		BoulderProject
27	★★ Pistol Gripped / South Side Traverse Traverse along the south face of Houda Rock.	V1	Boulder 150ft
28	Sand Crabs Roof problem left of Pangaea.	V1	Boulder
29	★★ Black Wall Arête	V2	Boulder 20ft
30	★★★ Jugtacular	V0+	Boulder 20ft
31	Land of the Setting Sun FFA: Joel Ruscher, 2012	V8	Boulder

1.3. Luffenholtz Beach

Summary:: 15 routes in Crag

Sport climbing, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.041895, -124.121031

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Hangover FFA: Eric Chemello, 1991	5.11	Top rope
2	★ Centipede Titanium glue-ins. FFA: Mark Wilson, 1989	5.8	Sport 30ft, 3
3	★ East Africa 1/2" bolts to titanium glue-in top anchor. FFA: Mark Wilson, 1989	5.8 R	Sport 30ft, 2
4	★ Local Motion Stainless steel bolts are old. FFA: unknown	5.11a	Sport 30ft, 3
5	Sea Breeze FFA: unknown, 1989	5.10a	Sport 35ft, 4
6	★ Back Door Man FFA: Bob Crowell, 1993	5.10c R	Mixed trad 40ft, 3
7	Salted Slug	5.11	Sport 40ft, 3
8	★ MacIntosh 3 or 4 old bolts.	5.9	Sport 35ft, 4
9	★ Succulent Mank	5.9	Sport 30ft, 4
10	High & Dry FFA: Adam Wanden & Eric Chemello, 1996	5.12	Top rope 35ft
11	Thing Big Variation FFA: Tim Wilhelmi, 1990	5.11b	Top rope 35ft
12	Think Big 3 or 4 bolts. FFA: Tim Wilhelmi, 1990	5.10a	Sport 35ft, 3
13	Shit Kebobs FFA: Bob Crowell, 1993	5.11a	Sport 35ft, 3
14	Down and Dirty	5.12+	Top rope 35ft
15	★ Implements Under Destruction / IUD 3 or 4 bolts. 2 bolt top anchor (from 2009).	5.9	Sport 35ft, 4

1.4. Promontory

1 4 2 3

1 Main Wall 2 The Abyss Boulder 3 Exploding Energy Shard Boulder 4 Puff Boulder

Summary:

Seasonality

29 routes in Crag

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.606557, -124.104875

1.4.1. Main Wall

Summary:: 13 routes in Sector

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.606486, -124.104757

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Pulling Teeth 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Eric Chemello, 1997	5.12a	Sport 50ft, 5
2	★★ Humboldt Current 2 bolt top anchor. New titanium glue-ins (ASCA, 2014).	5.10a	Sport 60ft, 5
3	★★★ The Mermaid Start on 'Ride the Woody'. Finish at top anchor for 'Humboldt Current'. FFA: Taylor Morrow	5.10b	Sport 60ft, 6
4	★★★ Ride the Woody 2 bolt top anchor. New titanium glue-ins (ASCA, 2014).	5.10c	Sport 60ft, 6
5	★★★ Blackbeard's Tears New titanium glue-in anchor below the roof section allows a shorter 5.11a free variation. The full route has not yet been freed. FA: Matthias Holladay, 1991 FFA: Ethan Pringle, 2016	5.14c	Trad 150ft
6	★★ Blackbeard's Tears (Pitch 1) Climb only to the new anchors at the top of pitch 1. Pro to 3".	5.11a	Trad 40ft
7	★★ Scared Straight 2 bolt top anchor. New titanium glue-ins (ASCA, 2015). FFA: Eric Chemello, 1998	5.12d	Sport 80ft, 10
8	★★★ Great White 2 bolt top anchor. New titanium glue-ins (ASCA, 2014). FFA: Matthias Holladay, Richard Ludwig & Tim Wilhemi	5.12c	Sport 95ft, 10
9	★★ Redwood Burl 3 bolt top anchor. New titanium glue-ins (ASCA, 2015). FA: unknown FFA: Matthias Holladay & Marc Petrolungmo, 1991	5.13a	Sport 95ft, 11
10	★★ Shrapnel Bolted top anchor. New titanium glue-ins (ASCA, 2014).	5.11b	Sport 70ft, 7
11	★★ Scurvy Bolted top anchor.	5.12	Sport 50ft, 6
12	★★ Lost at Sea Bolted top anchor. FFA: Kai Defty	5.11c	Sport 50ft, 6
13	★ Shipwreck Bolted top anchor. FFA: Matt Delheimer	5.10b	Sport 40ft, 4

1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder

Summary:: 6 routes in Sector

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.606377, -124.104871

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Poop Deck 2 bolt top anchor. Stainless steel glue-ins. FFA: Matt Delheimer & Taylor Morrow	5.9	Sport 40ft, 4
2	★ Batten the Hatches 2 bolt top anchor. Stainless steel glue-ins. FFA: Matt Delheimer & Taylor Marrow	5.11b	Sport 40ft, 4
3	★★ Walk the Plank 2 bolt top anchor. Stainless steel glue-ins. FFA: Matt Delheimer & Taylor Morrow	5.10+	Sport 40ft, 4
4	★★ Man the Cannons 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Matt Delheimer & Taylor Morrow	5.10c	Sport 35ft, 4
5	★★ Gnarwhal 2 bolt top anchor. Lower-off descent. Stainless steel glue-ins. FFA: Matt Delheimer & Taylor Morrow	5.11c	Sport 50ft, 5
6	★★★ Riptide 2 bolt top anchor. Stainless steel glue-ins.	5.12a	Sport 50ft, 4

1.4.3. Exploding Energy Shard Boulder

Summary:: 3 routes in Sector

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.606243, -124.104975

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Plague of Flies 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1999	5.9	Sport 60ft, 6
2	Exploding Energy Shard 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Matthias Holladay, 1991	5.7 X	Trad 30ft
3	★★★ Reality Check 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Eric Chemello & Paul Humphrey, 2002	5.12c	Sport 60ft, 7

1.4.4. Puff Boulder

Summary:: 7 routes in Sector

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.606496, -124.105058

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Holladay-Ludwig old bolts. FFA: Matthias Holladay & Richard Ludwig	5.4 R	Sport 40ft
2	★★ Blowhole 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Matt Delheimer	5.7	Sport 60ft, 6
3	★★ The Slow Spring 2 bolt top anchor. Walk off descent. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1998	5.10d	Sport 60ft, 8
4	★★★ Wildwood 2 bolt top anchor. Walk off descent. FFA: Matt O'Donnell, 1998	5.10b	Sport 60ft, 8
5	★★ Clicking Barnacles 2 bolt top anchor. New titanium glue-ins (2014). Stick clip recommended. FFA: Matthias Holladay, 1991	5.9	Sport 40ft, 4
6	★ Sea Legs 2 bolt top anchor.	5.10a	Sport 50ft, 5
7	★★ Mutiny 2 bolt top anchors.	5.12+	Sport 45ft, 5

1.5. Footsteps

1 2

1 North Rock 2 South Rock

Summary:

Seasonality

15 routes in Crag

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 41.615734, -124.115215

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Unsorted:
4		★ Tipity Top	5.10a	Unknown 50ft

1.5.1. North Rock

6 5

5 South Face 6 East Face

Summary:: 11 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.615882, -124.114925

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Pelican's BVDs Bolted top anchor. FFA: Paul Humphrey, 1998	5.11b	Sport 60ft, 6
2	★★ Tippy Toes 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Paul Humphrey, Dave Manheimer & Eric Chemello, 1997	5.10b	Sport 60ft, 5
3	★★ Tap Dance 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Paul Humphrey, Dave Manheimer & Eric Chemello, 1997	5.10a	Sport 60ft, 5
4	★★ Salsa Pants 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Rick Shull & Helen Shull, 2001	5.9	Sport 60ft, 5

1.5.1.1. South Face

Summary:: 6 routes in Sector

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.615659, -124.115193

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Seagulls Symphony / The Incessant Weltering Splash	5.9 R	Trad 80ft
2	Seductive Mermaid	5.10c/d	Sport 80ft
3	Tsunami	5.11d	Sport 80ft
4	Cutlass Supreme	5.11-	Sport 80ft
5	Siren's Serenade	5.9 X	Trad 50ft
6	Grog Supply	5.10-	Sport 50ft

1.5.1.2. East Face

Summary:: 1 route in Sector

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.615920, -124.114612

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Whale's Brow	5.11b	Sport 60ft

1.5.2. South Rock

Summary:: 3 routes in Cliff

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.615224, -124.114917

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Porifera 2 bolt top anchor. Set: Tim Wilhelmi, 1991 FA: Paul Humphrey, 1996	5.10d	Sport 60ft, 7
2	Sprinkling Pockets	5.12b	Sport 65ft
3	Osteoporosis	5.11b/c	Sport 60ft

1.6. Patrick's Point

4 2 3 5 1

1 Ceremonial Rock 2 Wedding Rock Area 3 Pacific Ocean Wall 4 Mussel Rock 5 Lookout Rock

Summary:

Seasonality

40 routes in Crag

<5 min

Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.138400, -124.151816

1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock

Summary:: 13 routes in Cliff

<5 min
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.138488, -124.156047

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	No New Tale to Tell 2 bolt top anchor	5.12a	Top rope 80ft
2	Headstrong 2 bolt top anchor.	5.11	Top rope 80ft
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
3	★★ Regular Route 2 bolt top anchor. Pro to 1.5". FA: Frank Jager, Bruce Price & Schuller, 1968 FFA: Frank Jager, Bruce Price & Schuller, 1968	5.10	Mixed trad 80ft, 6
4	★★ North Face / Northface / 5.10b Bolted top anchor with slings.	5.10b	Top rope 80ft
5	★★ Price's Crack On the right side of the North Face, ascend the crack the left-leaning crack up to a grassy ledge. At this point either (A) continue up and right across an unprotectable face to the next crack, or (B) walk 10ft to the right along the grassy ledge to find a protectable finger crack. Climb up the blocky crack, pull the roof, and look for the bolted anchor. FFA: Bruce Price & R. Nelson 1968, 1968	5.10a	Trad 80ft
6	★★ Price's Crack (Variation) / 5.8 Avoid the roof by traversing around to the right. Be wary of a pendulum fall if leading. FFA: Bruce Price & R. Nelson, 1968	5.8	Trad 80ft
7	5.11 TR #23 in "Bigfoot Country Climbing", Paul Humphrey. Located to the right of Price's Crack. Face climbing leads up to a crux move at a small roof.	5.11	Top rope 80ft
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
8	★★ South Face Located to the left of the summit stairs, behind the spectacular tree. It looks mossy, and the tree will invade your personal space, but the moves are interesting and thoughtful. Great for beginners. Easy to toprope with a 2 bolt top anchor accessible from the trail. Pro to 2". FFA: unknown, 1968	5.6	Trad 60ft
9	★ The Edge Bolted top anchor. Top rope with long slings. The old single bolt on the route is from the first ascent. FFA: Frank Jager & Bruce Price, 1968	5.7	Mixed trad 65ft, 1
10	★ Christian's Crack Bolted top anchor. Standard rack. FFA: Christian?	5.4	Trad 60ft
11	Intimidation Gear anchor. Walk off descent. Can be aided at 5.6 A1. FA: Frank Jager, 1968	5.10d	Mixed trad 50ft, 2
12	Jager Overhang Located around the corner to the left of Intimidation. FA: Frank Jager, 1968	5.6 A3	Aid
13	★ Ceremonial Traverse Left to right traverse.	V0	Boulder 30ft

1.6.2. Wedding Rock Area

1 2 3

1 North Sea Stacks 2 Wedding Rock 3 Black Rock

Summary:: 18 routes in Cliff

<5 min
Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.140957, -124.161509

1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks

Summary:: 9 routes in Sector

Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.141432, -124.161286

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
North Sea Stack
2	Nautilus 2 pitches. Second pitch (5.6) is shared with Seawolf. Piton top anchor. Rappel descent. FFA: unknown	5.9	Trad 80ft, 2
3	Seawolf 2 pitches. Second pitch (5.6) is shared with Nautilus. Piton top anchor. Descend by rappelling from piton top anchor. FFA: unknown	5.10b	Trad 80ft, 2
4	Slip Sliding Away Climbs up the right side of the stack, between the sea stacks. Piton top anchors. Climb Nautilus or Seawolf to gain the anchors.	5.11	Top rope 50ft
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
South Sea Stack
6	Regular Route Follow the trail across the grassy north slope of Wedding Rock and cross the chockstone to the South Sea Stack. Climb the left-facing dihedral, then head up the slab to the shared bolted anchor. (source: markbutterworth.com)	5.2	Unknown 45ft
7	Lemmon Aid Located on the black face just inland from the North Sea Stacks on the north side of Wedding Rock. Follow thin cracks up the face. No top anchor. Pro: small nuts and cams. (source: markbutterworth.com) FA: Mark Butterworth & R. Kruse, 1974	C2	Aid 25ft
8	★★ Wedding Night Lingerie Thin crack next to High Tide Crack on the north face of the south stack. Small pro. FFA: Matthias Holladay & Richard Ludwig	5.10d	Trad 80ft
9	★★ High Tide Crack Thin crack on the north face of the south sea stack. Scramble up the notch (4th class) from the east side at low tide. 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Matthias Holladay & Richard Ludwig	5.10d R	Trad 80ft
10	Low Tide Crack Hand to fist crack on the west face of the south stack, facing the ocean. 2 bolt top anchor. Scramble to the base at low tide (beware of slick rocks) or rappel in from the south stack summit. Pro to 2.5". FFA: unknown	5.9	Trad 80ft
11	5.11 TR "Bigfoot Country Climbing" (Humphrey, Chemello) indicates a 5.11 toprope route to the right of Low Tide Crack.	5.11	Top rope

1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock

Summary:: 6 routes in Sector

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.141010, -124.161557

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	★★ Seagulls Traverse Approach from the base of Low Tide Crack. Look for the dihedral up the face of Wedding rock. 80ft Climb the right facing corner. Belay at the sloping ledge. 100ft Traverse around right to a large ledge. ??ft Traverse right for a few feet, then continue up cracks to reach the wall of the summit trail. Walk off. FFA: Mark Butterworth & et al.	5.7 R	Trad 210ft, 3
2	Riptide / Rip Tide 2 pitches. Gear belay anchors. Small pro. Walk off descent. FFA: unknown	5.10	Trad 80ft, 2
3	Riptide (High Tide Variation) Pitch 1 is farther to the right.	5.9	Trad 80ft, 2
4	★ Lost Sailor Gear top anchor. Walk off descent. FFA: unknown	5.10a	Trad 60ft
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
5	★★★ Zig Zag / Tim's Jam Located to the left of the Wedding Rock trail, this conspicuous zig zagging crack overlooks an eroded slope above the beach. Hand and fist jams up polished rock lead to offwidth liebacking at the crux. Gear top anchor (1" to 2.5"). Easy walk off descent. Pro to 5" with doubles of the biggest piece. FFA: Tim Osborne, 1968	5.8	Trad 50ft
6	★★ Zig Zag (Left Variation) Climb the widening hand crack on the left, avoiding the wide crack to the right. Pro to 5" (a single C4 #5 should suffice for wide pro).	5.9	Trad 50ft

1.6.2.3. Black Rock

Summary:: 3 routes in Sector

5-10 min
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.140213, -124.161566

	Route	Grade	Style
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1	Bon Voyage "Bigfoot Country Climbing" (Humphrey, Chemello) describes this simply as "offwidth" left of Clipper Ship and Schooner.		Trad
2	Clipper Ship Ascend the crack right of Bon Voyage. FFA: unknown	5.6	Trad 40ft
3	Schooner Ascend the crack right of Clipper Ship. FFA: unknown	5.7	Trad 40ft

1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall

Summary:: 7 routes in Cliff

5-10 min
Top roping, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 41.139911, -124.161847

	Route	Grade	Style
1	5.10 #12 in "Bigfoot Country Climbing," Paul Humphrey. Located somewhere to the left of Dizzy Dial.	5.10	Top rope
2	★★★ Dizzy Dial 2 bolt top anchor. FFA: Tim Wilhelmi & Richard Ludwig FFA: Doug Lafarge, 1991	5.12a	Sport 60ft, 8
3	★★★ Whale Nation Ends at the 2 bolt anchor halfway up the wall. Direct start is 7 bolts (consider a clip stick). Alternatively, traverse in from the boulder on the right to clip 8 bolts. Might want to inspect the bolts for corrosion. FFA: Doug Lafarge, Tim Wilhelmi & Richard Ludwig FFA: Tim Wilhelmi, 1991	5.10d	Sport 50ft, 7
4	Whale Nation Continuation Top rope the full route. Top anchor is 1 bolt and a tree. FFA: Tim Wilhelmi, 1991	5.12c	Top rope 80ft
5	★★ California Coast FA: Bruce Price & Frank Jager, 1968	A2 PG13	Aid 100ft
6	Superstitious Tree top anchor. Walk off descent. FFA: Petch, 1991	5.12b R	Sport 80ft, 8
7	5.10b #28 in "Bigfoot Country Climbing," Paul Humphrey. Located somewhere to the right of Superstitious.	5.10b	Top rope

1.6.4. Mussel Rock

Summary:: 1 route in Cliff

<5 min
All Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 41.142160, -124.159450

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
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1		★ Mussel Crack / Ocean Overhang	A1	Aid 70ft

1.6.5. Lookout Rock

Summary:: 1 route in Cliff

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.139112, -124.161522

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Lookout Rock CLOSED TO CLIMBING	5.11	Top rope

1.7. Lost Rocks

Summary:: 2 routes in Crag

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.519633, -124.081272

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Flake Direct	V4	Boulder 15ft
2		Bare Naked Ascension	V4	Boulder 15ft

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5.2		Regular Route	Unknown 45ft	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
VB	★	Pyramid Rock Traverse	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
5.4	★	Christian's Crack	Trad 60ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
5.4 R	★	Holladay-Ludwig	Sport 40ft	1.4.4. Puff Boulder
5.6	★★	South Face	Trad 60ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
		Clipper Ship	Trad 40ft	1.6.2.3. Black Rock
5.6 A3		Jager Overhang	Aid	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
V0-	★	Greenstone Traverse	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
5.7	★★	Blowhole	Sport 60ft, 6	1.4.4. Puff Boulder
	★	The Edge	Mixed trad 65ft, 1	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
		Schooner	Trad 40ft	1.6.2.3. Black Rock
5.7 R	★★	Seagulls Traverse	Trad 210ft, 3	1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock
5.7 X		Exploding Energy Shard	Trad 30ft	1.4.3. Exploding Energy Shard Boulder
5.8	★★	Karen Crack	Trad 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★	Centipede	Sport 30ft, 3	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★★	Price's Crack (Variation)	Trad 80ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
	★★★	Zig Zag	Trad 50ft	1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock
5.8 R	★	East Africa	Sport 30ft, 2	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
V0	★★	East Face Left	Boulder 12ft	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
	★	Northwest Arête	Boulder 20ft	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
	★	Old Mother Hubbard	Boulder 90ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Shark Fin Arête	Boulder 15ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Ceremonial Traverse	Boulder 30ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
5.9	★★	Northeast Arête	Top rope 20ft	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
	★	Northeast Arête, Left	Top rope 20ft	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
	★★	Standard Route	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★	Pyramid Rock South Face	Top rope 30ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★	Implements Under Destruction	Sport 35ft, 4	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★	MacIntosh	Sport 35ft, 4	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★	Succulent Mank	Sport 30ft, 4	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★★	Poop Deck	Sport 40ft, 4	1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder
	★★	Plague of Flies	Sport 60ft, 6	1.4.3. Exploding Energy Shard Boulder
	★★	Clicking Barnacles	Sport 40ft, 4	1.4.4. Puff Boulder
	★★	Salsa Pants	Sport 60ft, 5	1.5.1. North Rock
		Low Tide Crack	Trad 80ft	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
		Nautilus	Trad 80ft, 2	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
		Riptide (High Tide Variation)	Trad 80ft, 2	1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock
	★★	Zig Zag (Left Variation)	Trad 50ft	1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock
5.9 R		Seagulls Symphony	Trad 80ft	1.5.1.1. South Face
5.9 X		Siren's Serenade	Trad 50ft	1.5.1.1. South Face
5.10-		Grog Supply	Sport 50ft	1.5.1.1. South Face
V0+		Can't Touch This	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
		Continental Drift	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★★★	Jugtacular	Boulder 20ft	1.2. Houda Point
		Mantle Me Mike	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
5.10a		Sea Breeze	Sport 35ft, 4	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
		Think Big	Sport 35ft, 3	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★★	Humboldt Current	Sport 60ft, 5	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★	Sea Legs	Sport 50ft, 5	1.4.4. Puff Boulder
	★	Tipity Top	Unknown 50ft	1.5. Footsteps
	★★	Tap Dance	Sport 60ft, 5	1.5.1. North Rock
	★★	Price's Crack	Trad 80ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
	★	Lost Sailor	Trad 60ft	1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock
5.10b	★★★	North Crack	Trad 40ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★	Shipwreck	Sport 40ft, 4	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★★★	The Mermaid	Sport 60ft, 6	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★★★	Wildwood	Sport 60ft, 8	1.4.4. Puff Boulder
	★★	Tippy Toes	Sport 60ft, 5	1.5.1. North Rock
	★★	North Face	Top rope 80ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
		Seawolf	Trad 80ft, 2	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
		5.10b	Top rope	1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall
5.10b A1		Tea Time	Aid 40ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
V1	★	East Face Right	Boulder 15ft	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
	★★	North Triangle Left	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	South Triangle Right	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★	Blade Runner	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★★	Hole in One	Boulder 12ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Jugs Arête	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★	North Face of the Boot	Boulder 15ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Pangaea	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★★	Pistol Gripped	Boulder 150ft	1.2. Houda Point
		Sand Crabs	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Unnamed Face	Boulder 12ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Wave Runner Traverse	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Whino	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
V1 R	★★	Jug Face	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
5.10c	★★★	Urchin	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★★★	Ride the Woody	Sport 60ft, 6	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★★	Man the Cannons	Sport 35ft, 4	1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder
5.10c R	★	Back Door Man	Mixed trad 40ft, 3	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
5.10		Holladay Traverse	Unknown 35ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
		Unnamed 5.10	Top rope 30ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	Regular Route	Mixed trad 80ft, 6	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
		Riptide	Trad 80ft, 2	1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock
		5.10	Top rope	1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall
5.10c/d		Seductive Mermaid	Sport 80ft	1.5.1.1. South Face
5.10d	★★	Lizard Head	Top rope 40ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★	Way Hard Rock Climbin' Betty	Top rope 40ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★★	The Slow Spring	Sport 60ft, 8	1.4.4. Puff Boulder
	★	Porifera	Sport 60ft, 7	1.5.2. South Rock
		Intimidation	Mixed trad 50ft, 2	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
	★★	Wedding Night Lingerie	Trad 80ft	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
	★★★	Whale Nation	Sport 50ft, 7	1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall
5.10d R	★★	High Tide Crack	Trad 80ft	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
5.10+	★★	Walk the Plank	Sport 40ft, 4	1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder
5.11-	★	Center Face	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
		Cutlass Supreme	Sport 80ft	1.5.1.1. South Face
V2	★★	South Triangle Left	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	Black Wall Arête	Boulder 20ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★★	Chuh	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★★★	She's Got Jugs	Boulder 15ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Surf Perch	Boulder 30ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Velvet Fog	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
5.11a	★★	Assembly Line	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★	Local Motion	Sport 30ft, 3	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
		Shit Kebobs	Sport 35ft, 3	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★★	Blackbeard's Tears (Pitch 1)	Trad 40ft	1.4.1. Main Wall
5.11b		Groveling Gibsters	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★★	Skyhook	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
		Thing Big Variation	Top rope 35ft	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★★	Shrapnel	Sport 70ft, 7	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★	Batten the Hatches	Sport 40ft, 4	1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder
	★★	Pelican's BVDs	Sport 60ft, 6	1.5.1. North Rock
		Whale's Brow	Sport 60ft	1.5.1.2. East Face
5.11b/c		Osteoporosis	Sport 60ft	1.5.2. South Rock
V3	★★	The Telephone Booth	Boulder	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
	★★	North Triangle Right	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
		Unnamed V3	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	Jugs Cave Direct	Boulder 14ft	1.2. Houda Point
	★	Running Man	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
5.11c	★★	Dream Theme	Top rope 55ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★★	Lost at Sea	Sport 50ft, 6	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★★	Gnarwhal	Sport 50ft, 5	1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder
5.11	★★	Dyno-Soar	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
		Moonstoner	Top rope 55ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★★	Unnamed 5.11	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
		Hangover	Top rope	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
		Salted Slug	Sport 40ft, 3	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
		5.11 TR	Top rope 80ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
		Headstrong	Top rope 80ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
		5.11 TR	Top rope	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
		Slip Sliding Away	Top rope 50ft	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks
		Lookout Rock	Top rope	1.6.5. Lookout Rock
5.11d	★★	Launch Toast	Sport 40ft, 6	1.1.3. North Rocks
		Tsunami	Sport 80ft	1.5.1.1. South Face
5.12-	★★	Buckhorn Bulge	Top rope 60ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
V4	★	Moonstone Traverse	Boulder	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
	★★	Karen Rock Traverse	Boulder	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★	Smack	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	The Moonstone	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	Jugs Cave	Boulder 14ft	1.2. Houda Point
		Bare Naked Ascension	Boulder 15ft	1.7. Lost Rocks
		Flake Direct	Boulder 15ft	1.7. Lost Rocks
5.12a	★★★	Nightmare	Top rope 55ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
		Hoka Lugi	Top rope 30ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	Pulling Teeth	Sport 50ft, 5	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★★★	Riptide	Sport 50ft, 4	1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder
		No New Tale to Tell	Top rope 80ft	1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock
	★★★	Dizzy Dial	Sport 60ft, 8	1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall
5.12b	★★	Sticked Wiffy	Top rope 30ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
		Sprinkling Pockets	Sport 65ft	1.5.2. South Rock
5.12b R		Superstitious	Sport 80ft, 8	1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall
5.12b V5	★★★	Houdini	Trad	1.2. Houda Point
V5	★★	Moonwalk	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★	Unnamed V5	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
5.12c		Unnamed 5.12	Top rope 30ft	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★★	Great White	Sport 95ft, 10	1.4.1. Main Wall
	★★★	Reality Check	Sport 60ft, 7	1.4.3. Exploding Energy Shard Boulder
		Whale Nation Continuation	Top rope 80ft	1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall
5.12		High & Dry	Top rope 35ft	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★★	Scurvy	Sport 50ft, 6	1.4.1. Main Wall
V6	★★	Cranc	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
	★	High Tide Runner	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
5.12d		Don't Look Back	Top rope 55ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★★	Scared Straight	Sport 80ft, 10	1.4.1. Main Wall
5.12+		Down and Dirty	Top rope 35ft	1.3. Luffenholtz Beach
	★★	Mutiny	Sport 45ft, 5	1.4.4. Puff Boulder
V7	★★	Leviathan Traverse	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
5.13a	★	Hoblet Roof	Top rope 35ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
	★★★	Thank You Thighmaster	Sport 40ft, 5	1.1.3. North Rocks
	★★	Redwood Burl	Sport 95ft, 11	1.4.1. Main Wall
V8		Land of the Setting Sun	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
5.13		Look Again	Top rope 50ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
		Surf Nazi	Top rope 55ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
V9	★★★	Witches Gathering	Boulder 18ft	1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock
V10	★	Aquilla	Boulder	1.2. Houda Point
5.14c	★★★	Blackbeard's Tears	Trad 150ft	1.4.1. Main Wall
?		Look No More	Top ropeProject 55ft	1.1.2. Karen Rock
		Unknown	Boulder	1.1.3. North Rocks
		Riptide	BoulderProject	1.2. Houda Point
		Bon Voyage	Trad	1.6.2.3. Black Rock
A1	★	Mussel Crack	Aid 70ft	1.6.4. Mussel Rock
A2 PG13	★★	California Coast	Aid 100ft	1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall
C2		Lemmon Aid	Aid 25ft	1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks

Redwood Coast Guide

Warning

Contributors

Table of contents

1. Redwood Coast

1.1. Moonstone Beach

1.1.1. Flat Top Rock, Spire Rock

1.1.2. Karen Rock

1.1.3. North Rocks

1.2. Houda Point

1.3. Luffenholtz Beach

1.4. Promontory

1.4.1. Main Wall

1.4.2. The Abyss Boulder

1.4.3. Exploding Energy Shard Boulder

1.4.4. Puff Boulder

1.5. Footsteps

1.5.1. North Rock

1.5.1.1. South Face

1.5.1.2. East Face

1.5.2. South Rock

1.6. Patrick's Point

1.6.1. Ceremonial Rock

1.6.2. Wedding Rock Area

1.6.2.1. North Sea Stacks

1.6.2.2. Wedding Rock

1.6.2.3. Black Rock

1.6.3. Pacific Ocean Wall

1.6.4. Mussel Rock

1.6.5. Lookout Rock

1.7. Lost Rocks

2. Index by grade