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Trashcan Rock Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Neale Brain rick Pavel Burov gene west Eric Foltz Ross Janke Simon Lee dan womac

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Trashcan Rock

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

30 routes in Cliff

Trad climbing, Top roping and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 34.040258, -116.197266

description

The moderate size rock right beside the Quail Spring picnic area parking lot.

approach

A few yards.

descent notes

Walk off the north end.

ethic

Be aware that you are climbing and staying in a National Park. Certain rules apply for climbers regarding climbing and camping, please make sure to get the latest rules once you enter the park.

inherited from Joshua Tree National Park

1.1. East Face

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

10 routes in Sector

Trad climbing, Bouldering and Top roping

description

The east face, which faces more towards the main road.

approach

A few yards.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Filth 5.8 Trad
2 Filch 5.5 Trad
3 Ripper 5.11 V1 Boulder
4 Gripper Traverse 5.10 V0+ Boulder
5 Wallaby Crack 5.8 Trad 35ft
6 Hermanutic 5.10c Trad 35ft
7 Butterfly Crack 5.11c Trad 30ft
8 Flutter By

TR climb following a dike to the right of Butterfly and joining it near the top.

5.12 Top rope
9 Left Sawdust Crack 5.10c Trad 30ft
10 Right Sawdust Crack 5.8 Trad 20ft

1.2. West Face

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

20 routes in Sector

Trad climbing, Top roping and Bouldering

description

The west face, which faces more towards the oval parking lot.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Eyestrain 5.2 Trad
2 Eyesore 5.4 Trad
3 Simpatico 5.1 Trad
4 Black Eye 5.9 Trad
5 Bloodymir 5.9 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Cranny

Just left of the high-point, look for a pair of nearly parallel cracks above a scoop so big it is a ledge. The climb starts up on the ledge.

Probably a good idea to have the belayer up on the ledge, too, to reduce the chances of a bad fall near the start of the route.

5.8 Trad 25ft
7 History 5.11a Top rope 30ft
8 Eschar 5.4 Trad 40ft
9 Bimbo 5.10a Top rope 40ft
10 Tulip 5.6 Top rope 40ft
11 Baby-Point-Five 5.8 Top rope 40ft
12 Walkway 5.4 Trad
13 B-1

The right-hand of the three obvious left-leaning bottom-to-top cracks on the west side.

5.3 Trad 40ft
14 Tiptoe 5.7 Mixed trad 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 B-2

About 10 feet left of B-1, the middle of the three obvious bottom-to-top cracks.

5.3 Trad 40ft
16 Profundity 5.10a Mixed trad 2
17 B-3

A little bit shorter than the other two, and a bit farther left, the left-most of the three obvious bottom-to-top cracks.

5.3 Trad
18 Karpkwitz 5.6 Trad 30ft
19 The Trough 5.5 Trad
20 Block Problem

Climb a dike with small square edges.

V0 Boulder 16ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.1 Simpatico Trad 1.2. West Face
5.2 Eyestrain Trad 1.2. West Face
5.3 B-1 Trad 40ft 1.2. West Face
B-2 Trad 40ft 1.2. West Face
B-3 Trad 1.2. West Face
5.4 Eschar Trad 40ft 1.2. West Face
Eyesore Trad 1.2. West Face
Walkway Trad 1.2. West Face
5.5 Filch Trad 1.1. East Face
The Trough Trad 1.2. West Face
5.6 Karpkwitz Trad 30ft 1.2. West Face
Tulip Top rope 40ft 1.2. West Face
5.7 Tiptoe Mixed trad 3 1.2. West Face
5.8 Filth Trad 1.1. East Face
Right Sawdust Crack Trad 20ft 1.1. East Face
Wallaby Crack Trad 35ft 1.1. East Face
Baby-Point-Five Top rope 40ft 1.2. West Face
Cranny Trad 25ft 1.2. West Face
V0 Block Problem Boulder 16ft 1.2. West Face
5.9 Black Eye Trad 1.2. West Face
Bloodymir Trad 1.2. West Face
5.10a Bimbo Top rope 40ft 1.2. West Face
Profundity Mixed trad 2 1.2. West Face
5.10c Hermanutic Trad 35ft 1.1. East Face
Left Sawdust Crack Trad 30ft 1.1. East Face
5.10 V0+ Gripper Traverse Boulder 1.1. East Face
5.11a History Top rope 30ft 1.2. West Face
5.11c Butterfly Crack Trad 30ft 1.1. East Face
5.11 V1 Ripper Boulder 1.1. East Face
5.12 Flutter By Top rope 1.1. East Face
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