Routes in Utah for selected grade

Low angle face to corner. Step across and traverse right trending crack below knifeblade ridge. Finish through notch gaining prominent ledge, gear anchor.

Rack: nuts, #0.1-#2

South facing, broken slab left of Graffiti Cave with various lines to choose. Mostly ~5.6 climbing with harder moves through midsection. Start low below the graffiti cave ledge and avoid the corner. Angle right toward belay tree. Walk off to Graffiti Cave repel or scramble to base.

Standard rack

Immediately left of homecoming princess

Climb right face (5.7) near 2nd bolt, pulling around and continuing up arete.

Same flakes as Super Bowl Sunday. Instead of moving across slab continue up and right climbing through a corner. Finish at Sunday School belay.

Rack to #2

Start in low angled chimney to slab. Continue up left tending hand crack to corner to belay ledge.

Rack to #3

Climb slabs left of Easy Like Sunday. Finish moving left to Sunday School belay. Direct Var. 5.9PG13

Rack small gear to #2

Climb right side of varnished slab trending left. Finish straight up headwall to belay station.

Rack to #3

A sizable corner at south end.

Rack to #3, optional #4

Offers an alternative access for the 4x4 ledge, or egress from the Basement. Several variations exist. Follow corner & exit left to ledge (5.8R); exit corner right, traverse roof, & finish through upper face slinging a boulder near Gagnsta Ledge access for anchor (5.7); climb broken face right of corner to 4X4 ledge & anchor boulder (~5.5)

Standard rack.

Right trending crack & flake features lead to belay ledge above Pocket Loverboy.

Rack to #3

Short route through left facing dihedral next to Takeda Route gains Upper Alcove ledge. Build natural or gear belay.

Rack to #3.

Rack to #3

Left facing dihedral north of the Tangerine. Climbs face with crack for protection. Gear belay on top, descend south using tree crack area repel stations.

Rack to #6, doubles 3-6.

Standard Rack, rappel off.

Climb cracks up & around arete.

Rack to #3

Approach as for Utahnics and continue north along base. Locate Tree Crack and find moderate crack. Belay off single bolt.

Rack to #3.

Rack to #3

Rack to #2.

Rack to #3

Rack to #2

Rack to #3

Snake Eyes var. finish. Move left at the start of pitch 2 through small corner. Move back right to gain pitch 2 anchor.

Rack to #2, 70m rope.

Continue up gully past Bumbling Gumbies eventually gaining the base of upper spire. Original route started on south side and moved clockwise passing pitons.

Standard rack

Direct start var. to Diamond Spire: 1 or 2 pitches climbing west flank of The Diamond cliff formation. Begin right and up gully from Diamond Direct following decent yet questionable broken slab face, bushy Class III/IV terrain, then finishing on Diamond Spire west face.

Descend: repel & walk off east gully.

Standard rack to #3.

Good lead for newer trad leaders.

Rack to #3

Standard Rack

2-3 pitches will generally reach the top. Expect a variety of cracks and features using natural belays off horns. Original line ascends cracks left of arete. Bring webbing for anchors.

Approach: 5.8 Wall route or hike to ledge from gully west of 5.8 Wall.

Rack to #4

Fist to offwidth crack south of summit block. Chock stone anchor with walk off.

Rack #1-#4

Another excellent, moderate roof crack.

Standard rack

Route originally angled left to Utah Crack. Typically finishes on Shotgun but also have the option of In the Pink also.

Standard rack

Excellent well protected climb.

Standard rack.

One or two pitches, build belays.

Standard rack

Build belay.

Standard rack

Left angling seam on slab with pockets & face holds. Excellent protection & superb climbing for the grade. Build anchor at ledge or sling horn at top.

Rack: Small cams to #1, small nuts/ballnuts.

Approach:

1. Climb Chouinard crack routes, from top locate large pine tree in chute immediately west.

2. Continue scrambling up gully past the Chouinard's Crack cat walk to large pine tree.

Descend: wall off or rappel from Chouinard's Crack.

Offwidth, layback & faceholds. Build anchor.

Rack: Bigbros, chockstone, #.75-#3

Approach: Continue up approach gully east of Chouinard's Crack.

Climbs crack & face above Chouinard's Chimney.

Standard Rack

Descent: walk off

Traverse roof left exiting on hand crack. Loose & vegetated, natural anchor.

Standard Rack

Approach:

Continue up approach gully past Chouinard's Chimney. Take right fork at the split.

Descent:

Walk off north.

Ascends left side of face, tricky placements.

Standard Rack.

An ideal lead for beginners.

Rack to #1

Another route for practicing trad or to gain upper section

Rack to #1

Rack small cams to #2

Offers better protection.

Rack to #2

Top rope only route. Can be trad lead at pg-13/R commitment.

A nice beginner’s route left of Noyce Rock.

Located on East side of large detached boulder immediately south of Main Wall.

Begin in small corner and pull around to slab. Crux is start.

Follow right facing corner/gully on southern end of buttress. Occasional offwidth & roof portions can be bypassed.

Rack to #3

-Variation:

1. Begin as for Avoiding the Issues & Nickel & Dimed reaching ledge below roofs.

2. Climb first pitch of Nickel & Dimed.

3. Continue up face left of roofs to topout.

Follows ridge between Great Amphitheater & Southern Buttress.

Approach: Follow Shoreline Trail north. Once below the ridge head up the hillside aiming toward (41.2606196, -111.9325894).

Rack to #4

Ascends south facing headwall immediately north of the Great Amphitheater. Named after world renowned mountaineer Chris Bonington who was part of the FA.

Rack to #3

Approach: Shoreline Trail until just below north end of Great Amphitheater. Head up hillside weaving through oak and staying north of drainage. Begin near (41.2616494, -111.9331114).

Climbs prow in the middle of cliff segment.

Rack small cams to #3, doubles #0.5-#1 optional.

Approach: Continue on Shoreline Trail to talus field below route. Navigate to (41.262574, -111.935213), a lone juniper marks pitch 1.

A prominent prow on north end of cliffband. Follow broken terrain ~5.7 or less. A great solo outing for some.

Rack small cams to #3, doubles #0.5-#1 optional.

Approach: Follow Shoreline Trail to hillside below route and south of drainage. Follow faint climber trail to small rock outcrop. Class III scramble around north end brings you to start of route above (41.264623, -111.936818). Pitch 1 is identified be tree visible at top.

Jagged Edge forms the ridgeline comprising the north mouth of Jumpoff Canyon. It is a more popular route and provides an excellent introduction for the canyon.

Approach: As for Jumpoff Canyon passing No Name sport route. Navigate toward dark colored rock near base (41.272384, -111.940555).

1. Begin on class 3- 5.easy ridge scramble steering toward large corner with roof crack.

2. 40m. 5.4: Climb corner the continue on face right of roof. Proceed through corners & cracks to belay ledge at start of next corner.

3. 35m. 5.5: Climb bulge in corner and continue up 2 ledges belaying in horizontal crack below roof.

4. 30m. 5.3: Aim for chockstone & wide chimney finishing on right side. From atop continue on right tending ramp finishing on arete.

5. 20m. Class 3/4: Top out following right facing corner to short face eventually gaining the remaining ridge line.

Standard rack, doubles #0.5-#3.

Climbs left set of crack breaks located on upper half of wall.

1. 50m. 5.5: Begin on broken terrain maneuvering blocks, ledges, & corners. Tend left aiming for ledge below headwall with obvious pair of cracks. 1-2 pitches.

2. 40m. 5.6: Climb left crack then tend right on easier terrain belaying below on ledge below & left of roof.

3. 45m. 5.5: Exit left of roof & top out on easier terrain.

Standard rack, doubles to #1

Climbs right set of crack breaks located on upper half of wall.

1. 60m. 5.5: Ascend arete to a corner crack. Follow corner & climb right of roof. Belay from ledge with headwall & prominent pair of cracks above, 1-2 pitches.

2. 40m. 5.6: Climb steep right crack moving right on face above to gain ledge beneath roof.

3. 45m. 5.5. Head right avoiding roof to connect to ridge. Follow corner and finish on easing terrain.

Standard rack, doubles to #1

Climbs next major prow immediately up canyon from Jagged Edge.

1. 35m. 5.5: Begin on broken terrain moving to right side of right to corner system. Belay as needed.

2. 30m. 5.6: Continue up corner & move left onto ridge at large ledge. Belay near large boulder.

3. 40m. 5.7: Begin on boulder & step onto face. Move through slab & ridge line. Stay right of wide flake left of ridge and belay from ledge below sizable roof.

4. 45m. 5.5: Avoid roof to the right. Follow easing terrain & corner to top.

Standard rack, doubles #0.3-#1

Climbs just left of center of wall. Again following broken gullies & faces.

Climbs series of gullies & broken cliff faces north of Northwest Ridge. This climbs the right side of north face veering left and connecting with North Face Direct.

Follow obvious ridge & expect a fair amount of choss.

Another ambiguous line ascending broken, chossy terrain.

This route tackles the main ridge line ascending Landon Spire. It begins in a saddle at base and is identified by the dark brown gneiss layer.

Ascends center of south face beginning in large recess.

Standard alpine rack

Mantle moves ascending prow face left of Black Streak.

Approach: As for Black Streak ice climb.

Rack #0.2-#4