Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 13th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Fool Effect - with Mark Hoggard | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
packs a lot of variety. Bouldery start, techy slab, powerful layback, and a roof to finish it off. Sick! Saw Joe while belaying Mark lol
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval - with Mark Hoggard | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
pretty burly for a slab. Found the perfect thumb pinch hold..
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Totally-clipse - with Mark Hoggard | 23m, 5 | |||||
gnaaaaarly move in the middle using slopey small pad for both hands..uhhh..
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Mon 13th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.10b R | ★★★ Angel's Arete - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
gorgeous arete! Some really sweet moves. Would be mad scary to lead on trad..
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5.8 | ★★ Zag - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
found the start to be quite demanding but maybe it was just sore muscles from super crack..
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5.7 | ★★ Easily Flakey - with Mark Hoggard | 85m | |||||
rip big red nut. Got to learn to commit to laybacks hey..
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Sun 12th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Thunder Buttress | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ Super Crack - with Mark Hoggard | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow, this was quite the journey. Takes you through a chimney, cruxy overhang, fairly enjoyable crack, gnarly chicken wing, and steeeeeep finish. Forgot to breathe for the last 5 mins. Mega!
Took so much out of both of us that we packed up and went for a swim in the New lol
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Sun 12th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Journey To The Center Of The Brain - with Mark Hoggard | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool wavy bulby scoopy features on this one. Mark found gear a bit finicky.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Mark Hoggard | 29m, 11 | |||||
wet rock is no bueno. Its neighbour seemed better after the rain.
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Sat 11th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy - with Mark Hoggard | 40m | |||||
P1 offers mild crack climbing with a couple of hard moves to get situated in the crack. If you are reading this, do yourself a favour and stop at P1 anchor. The top out of P2 is caked with runoff (May 2024) which resulted in a 2hr ascent. The two crimps below the anchor were filled with mud leading to some type 2 fun.
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5.9 | ★ Doce Doe - with Mark Hoggard | 30m | |||||
didn't bother with the second pitch
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Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★ The Layback (Zig) | 15m | |||||
Mon 27th Nov 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Bimbo Shrine | 24m, 8 | |||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | |||||
Mon 27th Nov 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | |||||
Sat 25th Nov 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Cottonmouth | 6 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ End of Innocence | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Q-Tip | 7 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Cottonhead | 12m | |||||
5.12a | ★★★ Psycho Wrangler | ||||||
Thu 23rd Nov 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Whippoorwill Whippoorwill | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Blimey | 6 | |||||
5.11a | ★★★ Masuko | 6 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Gimme A Clown | 6 | |||||
Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Pleasant Overhangs | 88m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 12th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12a | ★ Clean Shaved — 2 attempts | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.
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5.10d | ★★ Booby Prize | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes
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5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
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5.10b | ★★ Autumn Fire | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
★ Rats Alley | 23m | ★ Good | |||||
Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists
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5.8 | ★ Totally-clipse | 23m, 5 | |||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
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5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
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5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice and long, a pain to descend.
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5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Smore Energy — 2 attempts | 26m | |||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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5.9 | ★★ Smooth Operator | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
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5.10a | ★ Biohazard | 34m | ★ Good | ||||
No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Disturbance — 2 attempts | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | Average | ||||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
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5.9 | ★★ Happy Hands | 21m | Average | ||||
I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | |||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - with Elliott Pryor | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2nd Try. This thing is all time! Probably the most fun I've ever had climbing in the sun. The position is out of this world, as soon as you hit the arete you are above the tree line and climb about 35 ft on the arete with the most amazing view and the route tops out, how does it get any better! The only negative to this climb is the lack of bolts in the first section of climbing, not the most approachable for the 5.10 leader because of this. An incredible close to an amazing day of easy climbing, if every 5.10 was like this I would never feel the need to climb anything harder.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!
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5.6 Hard | ★ Bobby D's Bunny - with Elliott Pryor | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting final moves made the route
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5.9 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
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5.10b ~5.10c | ★ Springer | 23m | Average | ||||
Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.
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5.10d | Boing | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Found it easier than the route to the right, the grades could be reversed.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Strong Arming the Little Guy - with Caleb Mattson, Sam | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd Try. Probably the hardest 5.10 I've ever done, super interesting movement on underclings and slopers, but unfortunately I was about 2 inches too short to use any of the good footholds. Not an easy section of climbing on the route. Got a bit flash pumped, and then went for a swim in the lake after.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smoke Hole Canyon | |||||||
Guide Wall Ninja Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Black Hanger - with David Gray | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice moves, would get very good if ledge not there
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5.10a | ★ Native Suns - with David Gray | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Spaced bolts, no stopper moves
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5.8 | ★ Can't Pray The Gray Away - with David Gray | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Had to do it for the name. Was actually quite good.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bummer. I really expected this thing to be all time, and sure it was good but it certainly left a lot to be desired. The bottom was uninspiring and lacked a clear line, and many of the holds seemed chossy. Once you pull around to the right side of the arete, however, the route is amazing. Super fun face climbing on cool holds and even a sinker mono in the crux if you choose to use it. If the whole climb was as good as the last two bolts this thing would be all time but unfortunately that wasn't the case.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Preparation H - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2nd Try. Really sick route, with incredible sequences throughout. Hard moves off the ground were unenjoyable on the flash try, but felt sick on the go. Climbing to the 5th quickdraw is just some could old-fashioned arete liebacking movement with a sick toe perch to gain a crimp, and the boulder after pulling around the corner is divine with sequential footwork and an incredible float move out right. Felt a really good flow on this one and was psyched to do it soft 2nd.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First route at the New! This one was on the all-time list, in fact, the only 5.10 from the New to make the list, and I've been nervous it wouldn't live up to the hype. Lucky for me, it turned out to be as sick as a 5.10 can be. Straightforward long lock-offs, balancy and thoughtful sections, and a really nice section with jugs and horizontal hand jams. People say this one is polished, but I thought it was in incredible shape for its popularity. Went back up a second time and got some crux footy from Caleb to hopefully put into the blog.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Reed's Creek | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Block Magic | 18m, 8 | Average | ||||
Split personality route. Probably would have climbed better as a mixed trad route with better bolt placements. Not a fan.
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5.10c | ★ Apophis | 21m, 8 | Don't Bother | ||||
Someone had to clean it. Not great to lead or second, felt harder than 10a if you are short off the hands free ledge at 5th bolt. MP gives it 5.10c/d which is more realistic. Nice start but the bolting, rock and line after that aren’t great.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Reed's Creek | |||||||
Gypsies Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Gypsies | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice route, good warm up
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5.9 | ★ Shaved Scamper | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice wall with interesting climbing due to the diagonal nature of the bedding plane
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Wed 26th Jul 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Flirting with Empty - with Carl, 婧怡 | 6 | |||||
5.10d | ★ Flight Time - with Carl, 婧怡 | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Go Ballistic - with Carl, 婧怡 | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Chewy - with Carl, 婧怡 | 12m, 4 | |||||
Tue 25th Jul 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ I Smell A-rete - with Carl, 婧怡 | 23m | |||||
Tue 25th Jul 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete - with Carl, 婧怡 | 20m | |||||
5.11a | ★ Grit and Bear It - with Carl, 婧怡 | 17m | |||||
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Perot Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Gun Lust - with Carl, 婧怡 | 4 | |||||
5.10a | ★ Trigger Happy - with Carl, 婧怡 | 9m, 4 | |||||
Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area The Coliseum | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Reckless Abandon - with Carl, 婧怡 | 18m, 8 | |||||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ New World Order - with Carl | 26m, 7 | |||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger - with Carl, 婧怡 | 24m | |||||
Fri 21st Jul 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Mo' Betta' Holds - with Carl, 婧怡 | 21m | |||||
5.11d | ★★ The Bicycle Club - with Carl, 婧怡 | 17m | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage - with Carl, 婧怡 | 21m | |||||
5.10a | Play it by Ear - with Carl, 婧怡 | 20m | |||||
Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak East Face | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ Skyline Traverse | 67m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Wall | 69m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Le Gourmet | 75m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Critter Crack | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Sidewinder | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.2 | ★ Old Ladies' Route | 84m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior | 46m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior | 46m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Seneca | |||||||
South Peak West Face | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Wall | 69m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Menace Alert (Manace Alert) | 4 |