Ascents in World by Vanessa Wills

We needed to tire ourselves out quickly, that was the plan, and i have never quite figured this one out. Some super long moves. I solved one, with bunched beta, but my short beta for the second move to the blob on the arete is low percentage

Very classy route. Surely someone can do it without Batman start. Second go got through the bouldery start and mucked up the head wall despite feeling fresh enough. Used pockets to the left at the start which were full of cobwebs

To sort bolt placements. Rebolted.

One to try again a bit earlier in the day when I have regrown skin and don’t have weeping tips.

Preplaced the draws, freeing a hand to clip felt quite insecure

Great top, unfortunately the mank to get to it detracted a little. Second go. Should have flashed it

Just a 2m section my shoe rubber wouldn’t stick. Dave did brilliantly.

Gave the rebolt a whirl. A 0.75 needed above last bolt. One of the easier 24 s at MF, nice moves. The direct start awaits.

Time to clean up old projects. Sharp on the fingers and a bit contrived, but at least it’s something to do.

Made some upward progress, just have to link it and hope pebbles stay put

Progress, got to second last hold, fingers too sore to have too many shots.

FFA. First go today. Lockdown good for focusing on average local projects. Actually the climb is pretty nice with an interesting crux solution. Having the anchor draws preplaced ( via Marmite) is a good idea.

Nice start, good rests. Not too hard, after start. Could be 23. A long sling on 3rd bolt was comforting

I really like the moves. It took about 4 shots, and reconfiguring starting beta after I pulled off the best hold. Now even crimpier. It is Watagans rock however.

Decided it felt easy on the first burn but the skin didn’t like it, then got super pumped on the send go after taping up.Thankful for the plonka rest.

Three interesting sections with some good moves that can be finessed by technical trickery.

I wish I’d written down my beta for the start. I think I will just get on black leg miner again!

Took a bit of cleaning. Unfortunately Robin and John’s bolts are within clipping distance in the lower half, though the crux and above is pure trad, mostly small to medium wires. The old single bolt needs replacing and anchors would be good. will add to the to do list. 23/24 maybe. It too k a number of tries to sort out

Rpt, haven’t been on this for a decade at least. Nice to walk up it today, maybe I’m so old yet…

Two shots today, had to reacquaint myself first go. one fall at crux on second go, got back on without much rest and finished it. A super route. Definitely room for something hard to the left.

Wet, dirty, and stumped by the long move below permadraw

Felt like a boulder problem on top of a bolted crack, with lots of razor sharp crimps that broke. Maybe I need to know the secret beta.

Just had a couple of goes to the junction with underdog today to revisit the moves between intermittent showers. Will add it to my list of projects.

Will have to try again, the move to the arete from flake to enable the throw to the horn is out of reach for me, feeling more 25 for vertically challenged. managed all the other moves, though often a couple of moves to Dave’s one needed. This does seem like it has retro bolted Paradise Prow, which must have been a pretty scary route.

Fifth go overall, a less humid day helped so I reverted to the tiny crimps into a hand jam throw as I could not reach the holds around the arete whatever I tried at the crux.

FFA. Team FFA, amazing what a bit less humidity can do. Interesting to compare our sequences which were quite different, especially on the left traverse. Worth the long walk from killiecrankie instead of Docks forachange

Not as good as the original, the traverse right to join BB is best done quickly on a low spooge day

Could get high on R arete at crux but was so spreadeagled I couldn’t move. Ended up just climbing face with a very heinous heel hook mantle which may feel scary on lead.

The start is impossible direct anywhere near the grade, I ended up doing the start of the 26, came off halfway between the second last and last bolt where it looks like numerous flakes have disappeared feeling I had already done enough for the grade! And whats with the huge runout at the crux?

Getting to 4 th bolt, but the move to the alcove is hard. Then fine to top.

Reacquainting myself with this. I find it has some long moves

Another reacquainting mission. One low percentage move is my main problem.

Nice to get this off the list, coming back a second day with the beta fresh was worth it. Having the crux wire placed was good for the mind, the rest of the gear is quite straightforward.

Second go today, put some gear in, managed to hang on despite muffing sequence

Used the preplaced gear, though the red cam in the hand jam is probably better placed after getting to ledge. Most gear straight forward but the two crux bits feel fiddly.

A good way to exhaust ourselves before/ as the rain hit with a couple of runs on this. Shame about the ledges.

2 laps, getting up into undercling is my main problem, the rest is ok, but a few other spots you could fall. Will have to prioritise it this year

Just missing the spanking move, couldn’t stick despite todays excellent friction. One previous go about a decade ago before the 2 extra bolts added probably left me scarred.

2 shots today. More grating on finger skin than I recall. Knee pads next time 3 knee bars. Middle crux match, r foot up, right hand side pull, left hand unchalked dimple then slipper, forget about chalked holds to left then up to above bolt. Top crux commitment!

The climb briefly dried, then the tide started coming back in and it got drenched again

MF answer to a campus board. A little bit of rope assistance on the crux move, but quite happy with my crimping today

Alzheimers os, to the anchors of Mr C. Easier than 24 but maybe better for the short

Did everything but the short person crux. Was in good form when I last did this,

Did the bottom bouldery bit and all the sequences on the slab, but a few slips. Need to be in the shade

FFA. Great slab moves, through a Rooflet, a slab Dyno and then a nice finger crack.

FFA. Dave and I had quite different beta, esp for the top. Reachy but possible.

Not much new climbing ( so I don’t know why I fell off) however there appears to be a broken crimp at the second bolt making life more difficult

Better today with the cooler temps and the wall in shade.

End of day lap placing draws.

Two laps to set up a rope swing and take it down.

Third go, had to figure the crux reach. Crack gloves both hands helped and taped right index finger for brutal finger lock

Gave up at third bolt, sun had disappeared and the sharp rock was chewing up my fingers. Will try on a warmer day.

Still finding this finger destroying

Short but some good movement. Too hot in the sun to try again

2 laps, the effect of being sick for the past 2 weeks showed by the second lap

Hasn’t had much traffic lately

Rpt, 2 clean laps

2 goes, unlocked a bit of beta, got rained off