Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Falesia Family San Martino Juniors | ||||||
4c | ★ Fierobecco - with Diana | 10m | ||||
Kinda hard to get over the buldge if you're small.
|
||||||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Massi di Gaggiolo Sas Lorenzo | ||||||
4a | ★★ Eolo - with Diana | 14m | ||||
Saving draws
|
||||||
5a | ★ Il Principe Azzurro - with Diana | 12m | ||||
Weird start
|
||||||
6a | Biancaneva - with Diana | 18m | ||||
Hard to read?
|
||||||
6a | Biancaneva - with Diana | 18m | ||||
Hard to remember... ?!
|
||||||
6a | Biancaneva - with Diana | 18m | ||||
Just #hard for a 6a in general
|
||||||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Massi di Gaggiolo Sas Elena | ||||||
5a 5c | ★★ N.N.2 - with Diana | 12m | ||||
#soft, maybe 5a or so
|
||||||
4c | Romeo - with Diana | 8m | ||||
5a | ★ Minou - with Diana | 8m | ||||
5c | ★ Guendalina - with Diana | 10m | ||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Ruchenköpfe | ||||||
Südwand | ||||||
4 | ★ Neue Südwand - with Konsti | 50m, 7 | ||||
In a single pitch, and this time gaining the rock band via the right two pitches not N.N.
|
||||||
Wed 7th Sep 2022 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Flintsbach Kuhwies'n | ||||||
7 | ★★ Muckenbeidl - with Diana | 24m | ||||
Would've been an onsight, but pulled out a pebble going to the anchor and took a nice whipper back to the 2nd bolt 😨
Only 7- in my topo and felt easier even than Scheißdreck
|
||||||
7- | ★ Scheißdreck - with Diana | 20m | ||||
Very hard to see the next holds in the overhang, but should be doable
|
||||||
Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | ||||||
Lucky Loser - with Diana | ||||||
Was supposed to be the second warmup. It wasn't and I didn't feel like burning energy on it.
|
||||||
6- | ★ Die Hutzen und die Dutzen - with Diana | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Warmup
|
||||||
8+ | ★★ Minimax - with Diana | |||||
Managed to do all moves. Nice route. The crux is clearly at the start, but it's not super easy (also to read) afterwards either. I fear I might do the crux and then the pump kills me
Wouldn't mind another bolt between the second and third, but it is pretty easy terrain. Guess it's very unlikely to fall if you made it there. If you did however during the clip, I'm pretty sure it would be a ground fall. One could place friends in-between for more safety but I didn't bring any that day. |
||||||
8+ | ★★ Minimax - with Diana | |||||
Three more attempts after a long rest, all failing in the crux. Close to doing it on the last as I got it increasingly more dialed.
So great, now I have two promising 8+ mini-projects here and in Gimmeldingen and no more free weekends before I'll move away. |
||||||
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Plattenwand | ||||||
7- | ★★ Strictly Balroom - with Diana | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves
|
||||||
6 | ★ Kleiner Feigling - with Diana | 5 | ||||
Much easier after the boulder at the start. Might wanna bring a clip stick, the first bolt is way above the difficulties.
|
||||||
8+ | ★★ Meerspinne - with Diana | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found a solution for all but one move near the second bolt. From the third onward it's not super easy, but was easy enough to onsight the rest.
|
||||||
8+ | ★★ Meerspinne - with Diana | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
After a long break. Made progress, but still this one move which I couldn't free yet. Have a beta that might work if perfectly well rested and eveything works out. But of course there is no way I'll remember this until next time I'm here
|
||||||
Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Nassereith | ||||||
Tieftal | ||||||
4a | ★★ Sonntagsspaziergang - with Diana | 99m | ||||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Oetz | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Flügel - with Diana | 30m | ||||
Plan was to do Guater Haggen, but thinking about it now, I probably messed up by going too far left, so I guess I did Flügel Hardest section right at the start.
|
||||||
5b | ★★ Kante - with Diana | 20m | ||||
5c | ★★ Rampe - with Diana | 20m | ||||
6a | ★★ Dr. Mabuse - with Diana | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard but fun
|
||||||
6c+ | Freibier - with Diana | 5m, 2 | ||||
Found beta to get to the first bolt. Which hey is about a third of the route. But otherwise, no chance.
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Oberried | ||||||
Springtime | ||||||
5c | ★★ Sindbad - with Diana | 18m | ||||
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Oberried | ||||||
Loreley | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Flip - with Diana | 15m | ||||
6c+ | ★★ Autobahn - with Diana | 20m | ||||
On my first attempt I fell before even reaching the first bolt. Started too far right.
|
||||||
6c+ | ★★ Autobahn - with Diana | 20m | ||||
Made it further this time, but the slab in middle was too hard for me at this point. Aided may way up three bolts and eventually crossed over to the 5b at the right. No chance of sending this any time soon.
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Oberried | ||||||
Rosmaries Baby | ||||||
6a 6a+ | Bohrfieber - with Diana | 8m, 5 | ||||
Weird. Thought I had gone too far left, but direct was super hard.
|
||||||
6a 6a+ | Bohrfieber - with Diana | 8m, 5 | ||||
Did end up gping pretty far left after all.
|
||||||
6b 6b+ | ★ Chaos - with Diana | 8m, 5 | ||||
So many slopers. Nasty traverse to the anchor.
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Oberried | ||||||
Blattlaus | ||||||
5b | ★ Obelix - with Diana | 5m | ||||
5b 6b | ★★ Fred und Barney - with Diana | 5m | ||||
#morpho? Or just super soft? This felt easier than 6b.
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Oberried | ||||||
Baumriese | ||||||
4a | ★★ Sponge Bob - with Diana | 8m, 4 | ||||
5a | ★★ Himmelmann - with Diana | 8m, 4 | ||||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Auplatte | ||||||
Ost | ||||||
6a | ★ CO2 - with Diana | 10m, 5 | ||||
6b | ★★ Lockenwickler - with Diana | 10m, 6 | ||||
Pumped out
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Lockenwickler - with Diana | 10m, 6 | ||||
Fell higher up, but still no success
|
||||||
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Auplatte | ||||||
West | ||||||
5b | ★ Buschpilot - with Diana | 20m, 8 | ||||
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Nordschwarzwald | ||||||
Murgtal Grafensprung Oberer Wandteil | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Ohne Haken - with Diana | 10m, 3 | ||||
#morpho and with a bomber left heel hook this really comes down to one move. No more difficulties after the start.
|
||||||
4+ | ★ Schöner Weg - with Diana | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Eigentlich net so schön
|
||||||
6- | ★★ Biwakliesel - with Diana | 12m, 4 | ||||
Started too far right on my onsight attempt.
|
||||||
6- | ★★ Am Tag vor Australien - with Diana | 12m, 5 | ||||
Kneebars help for the start
|
||||||
6+ | SSM - with Diana | 12m, 6 | ||||
6 | ★★★ A8 - with Diana | 12m, 5 | ||||
7+ | ★★ Bruchhaufen - with Diana | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Not gonna lie, the chalk from previous ascents certainly helped lead the way through the overhang at the end
|
||||||
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Kessel | ||||||
6+ | Schwüler Dreck - with Diana | 4 | ||||
7+ | ★★ Metamorphose - with Diana | 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
My topo says crux near the first bolt. I disagree and would put it higher, but it's pretty consistent dihedral fun throughout. Pumpy only for the calves, you can always technique your way around having to pull hard. Plenty of somewhat good rest and clip positions, would not have been necessary to pre-clip the first two bolts in retrospect.
|
||||||
6+ | ★★ Steinerner Regen - with Diana | 5 | ||||
Kinda nasty to the anchor
|
||||||
5 | Neuling - with Diana | 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Weird start and as so very often around here, more sand than stone. Boy am I happy to soon live near limestone again
|
||||||
Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Plattenwand | ||||||
7- | Der Zauderer von Oz - with Diana | |||||
Read it wrong several times. Did all the moves in the end, but no time left for a redpoint attempt.
|
||||||
5+ | ★ Tugarez - with Diana | 3 | ||||
After the first dihedral of the worked out so nicely...
|
||||||
Fri 27th May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
B - Main Wall 1 | ||||||
5a+ | ★ Buhtelj - with Diana | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
7a | ★ Intenzivno - with Diana | 10m | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Daffy Duck - with Diana | 15m, 9 | ||||
Fri 27th May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
A2 - Turski Stolp | ||||||
4b | ★ Po Grajskih Stopnicah - with Diana | 15m, 8 | ||||
4a | ★ Normalna - with Diana | 16m, 7 | ||||
Thu 26th May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
D - Sandijeva zajeda | ||||||
4a+ | Scooby Doo - with Diana | 12m, 5 | ||||
Thu 26th May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
E - no name | ||||||
4a+ | ★★ Mira ur - with Diana | 10m, 6 | ||||
5a | ★★ Čebelica - with Diana | 10m, 5 | ||||
Thu 26th May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
C - Main Wall 2 | ||||||
6c | Soft Rock - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Ok before, an doable after as well, but I didn't find a beta for the crux. Plenty of holds available but they're all terrible Dyno to the jug?
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Škis Berač - with Diana | 15m, 7 | ||||
Doesn't look like a 6a from the ground, but is
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Popaj - with Diana | 16m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really fun
|
||||||
Wed 25th May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
B - Main Wall 1 | ||||||
6c | ★★ D.O.A. - with Diana | 10m, 7 | ||||
6c | ★★ D.O.A. - with Diana | 10m, 7 | ||||
Boulder start, easy to the anchor.
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Sončica - with Diana | 19m, 8 | ||||
5b | ★ Bugs Bunny - with Diana | 16m, 10 | ||||
5c | ★ J3K - Špelin grafit - with Diana | 16m, 9 | ||||
4a | ★★ Kamin - with Diana | 16m, 9 | ||||
6c | ★ Dilema - with Diana | 10m, 7 | ||||
The start was harder than it looked from the ground
|
||||||
6c | ★ Dilema - with Diana | 10m, 7 | ||||
It was close... Boulder start, easier afterwards.
|
||||||
Mon 23rd May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
C - Main Wall 2 | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Lajza - with Diana | 15m, 8 | ||||
Nope, not today either. But at least with only one hang this time and I actually took note of the beta for next time...
|
||||||
Mon 23rd May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
B - Main Wall 1 | ||||||
5b | ★ Pakla - with Diana | 14m, 7 | ||||
4a | ★★ Lunapark - with Diana | 14m, 7 | ||||
5c | ★ Kojot Vily - with Diana | 15m, 9 | ||||
Might have gone a bit too far right, following the next route near the top, but I did end up on the correct anchor.
|
||||||
6a | ★★ Izhod Road Runner - with Diana | 15m, 11 | ||||
An oregano-scented ascent
|
||||||
5b | ★★ Tjaška - with Diana | 20m, 8 | ||||
5a | Trončica - with Diana | |||||
5c | ★★ Z poč - with Diana | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really fun and more technical than expected. Very polished as well.
|
||||||
Sun 22nd May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
D - Sandijeva zajeda | ||||||
7a | Piranha - with Diana | 12m | ||||
It bites indeed.
|
||||||
Sun 22nd May 2022 - Črni Kal | ||||||
C - Main Wall 2 | ||||||
6a | ★★ Sončna Ura - with Diana | 15m, 8 | ||||
4c | ★ Ajda - with Diana | 15m, 9 | ||||
4b | ★★ Vilijeva - with Diana | 15m, 8 | ||||
5c | ★★ Bori Šumijo - with Diana | 15m, 11 | ||||
We were off by one corner in the guidebook, this was supposed to be a 4a warmup
|
||||||
6a+ | ★ Lajza - with Diana | 15m, 8 | ||||
Super polished
|
||||||
Fri 20th May 2022 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Flintsbach Kuhwies'n | ||||||
7 | ★★ Sacklaus - with Diana | 22m | ||||
Turns out the bulge is not the crux
|
||||||
6+ | ★ Warm Up - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Fri 20th May 2022 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Flintsbach Steinbruch | ||||||
6+ | ★ Do Legst Di Nieder! - with Diana | 15m | ||||
6- | ★★ Kombination - with Diana | 27m | ||||
Thu 19th May 2022 - Ludwig Steub Klettergarten Sebi | ||||||
4c | Felsenkellerkäse - with Diana | 10m | ||||
4b | ★★ Wampenschorsch - with Diana | 21m | ||||
4a | Bienenflug - with Diana | 23m | ||||
4a | Bienenflug - with Diana | 23m | ||||
4a | Dreck aus Tirol - with Diana | 20m | Crap | |||
Choss central. Fell because a foothold pulverized underneath me. Also took out various holds.
|
||||||
Wed 18th May 2022 - Ludwig Steub Klettergarten Sebi | ||||||
5a | Sommerfrische - with Diana | 27m | ||||
Forgot I had already done this one Kinda dirty.
|
||||||
4c | Herbsttage in Tirol - with Diana | 25m | ||||
4c | Mount St. Elias - with Diana | 26m | ||||
Very dirty
|