Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Tenerife | ||||||
South Arico Arriba Los Quintos | ||||||
4c - 5a | ★★ La guarra - with Diana | 8m, 3 | ||||
5a | ★ Zuzu - with Diana | 9m, 3 | ||||
Easier than it looks from the ground.
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6a | ★★ Corazon de metal - with Diana | 3 | ||||
Fair grade, but hard to read.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Tenerife | ||||||
South Arico Arriba Peña del Lunes | ||||||
6b | ★★ Km 11 - with Diana | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical
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6b | ★★ Peña del lunes — 3 attempts - with Diana | 10m, 4 | ||||
First bolt is pretty high. It's all jugs, so pretty safe, but some might prefer to bring a (long) clip stick.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Tenerife | ||||||
South Tamadaya Apapart Left | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Calzoncillos Alondrados - with Diana | 12m | ||||
Hard at the first two bolts, then a huge ledge before the second, easier part.
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6a+ | ★★ La bavaresa me tiro - with Diana | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice slab. Traversing left was harder than I had imagined looking at it from the ground.
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6a | ★ La triada - with Diana | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Nice route, but indeed every visible part of the anchor is rusty. Didn't check here before climbing it
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Tenerife | ||||||
South Tamadaya Cuarto Largo Right | ||||||
5c | ★★ Mystical slab - with Diana | 25m | ||||
Difficult start, easier on the slab.
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6a+ | ★★ Garimbazo Bombazo — 3 attempts - with Diana | 8m, 4 | ||||
Various options at the start.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Tenerife | ||||||
South Tamadaya Lower Tamadaya | ||||||
5 | ★ NN10 - with Diana | 8m, 4 | ||||
4 | ★ NN8 - with Diana | 8m, 4 | ||||
4+ Hard | ★ NN5 - with Diana | 9m, 6 | ||||
4 | ★★ NN4 - with Diana | 8m, 5 | ||||
4 | ★ NN16 - with Diana | 4 | ||||
4 | ★ NN15 - with Diana | |||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Steinlingwand | ||||||
Schulweg | ||||||
5+ | Spezlwirtschaft - with diana | 23m | ||||
5+ | ★ Stoaling - with diana | 20m | ★ Good | |||
4+ | ★ Schulweg - with diana | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6+ | Fakir - with diana | 26m | ||||
6 | Nadeltraum - with diana | 18m | ||||
6+ | Oane gehd no - with diana | 18m | ||||
Not the brightest idea to do this one when everything before the first bolt was still super wet...
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Flintsbach Kuhwies'n | ||||||
7- Hard | ★ Scheißdreck — 2 attempts - with Diana | 20m | ||||
Flintsbach delivers again. Tried it before a long time ago and didn't figure it out. Tried it again and worked it for a long time, again without finding workable beta. Then happened to see someone else work (much quicker) and find a beta.
Gave it one more try this way and finally succeeded. And the best part about all this is: If you know how, 7- is actually not that far off...
(At the last bolt go far right, not left. Only issue with that is, that you may not be able to clip it depending on armspan. Alternatively, pinkpoint it. If the draw is already in, you can clip from below.) |
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Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Soinwandpfeiler | ||||||
5 | ★ Bergbundloadal - with Diana | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Very nice route. Great rock quality. More bolts than we brought quickdraws for
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Fuchslugergraben | ||||||
Großes Dach | ||||||
5+ | NN13 - with Diana | 15m | ||||
5 | NN12 - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Fuchslugergraben | ||||||
Steinerne Stadt | ||||||
7- | NN18 - with Diana | 14m | ||||
Found the bulge very hard to read. Still lots of loose rock towards the top.
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7+ | Scharfzahn - with Diana | 10m | ||||
5+ | Rum um's Eck - with Diana | 8m | ||||
The start had me doubt whether I was in the right line. No gimme for a 5+!
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Fuchslugergraben | ||||||
Großes Dach | ||||||
6- | ★ NN11 - with Diana | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5 | NN10 - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Bit dirty still here and there but nice regardless.
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7+ | ★★ NN9 - with Diana | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical. Great friction.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Fuchslugergraben | ||||||
Uhrenwandl | ||||||
6- | Bon Gusto - with Diana | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
No idea where the two stars in the topo are coming from. Weird line and lots of plants to fight through towards the anchor.
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4+ | Fratz'ngsicht - with Diana | 8m | ||||
Wet, mossy, and full of spider webs. But still kinda nice.
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Unknown First Anchor - with Diana | ||||||
4+ | Micky Maus - with Diana | 10m | ||||
Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Auerwandl | ||||||
3+ | ★★ Mongognom - with diana | 15m | ||||
3 | ★★ Popelkönigin - with diana | 7 | ||||
4+ | ★ Wunschlos 2 - with diana | 16m, 8 | ||||
5- | ★★ Wunschlos - with diana | 16m, 8 | ||||
Slab is nothing to be afraid of. Only the polish on it
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3+ | ★ Baby Gwag - with diana | 16m, 6 | ||||
4 Easy | ★★ Kinderturnen - with diana | 15m, 7 | ||||
4+ | ★★ Varioplatte 2 - with diana | 15m, 8 | ||||
Only one hard part the very end, easier before.
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6- | ★★ Hot dog - with diana | 18m, 8 | ||||
More like a 4 to the first anchor, which is probably why it's there. The 6- is finding the jugs on the final overhang.
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6+ | ★ Amigo - with diana | 18m, 9 | ||||
6+ | ★★ Bellissima - with diana | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, yes, but maybe no longer Bellissima with all the polish
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Pfelders | ||||||
4 | Grossmaul - with Diana | 5m | ||||
Just for completeness sake...Not a popular route I think
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6a+ | Felix - with Diana | 18m | ||||
6a+ | Stella - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Nice overhang. Very close to Aris towards the top.
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6a | Adi - with Diana | 12m | ||||
Took me an eternity to figure out the bulge. Downclimbed back to the no hands rest six times or so...
Fist bolt is high-ish but safe. |
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Pfelders | ||||||
4 | ★ Schöne Aussicht - with Diana | 8m | ||||
3 | ★ Für kleine Jungs - with Diana | 8m | ||||
6c+ Hard | Adrenalinjunkie — 6 attempts - with Diana | 10m | ||||
Second session in this route. Two attempts with my beta from last time, then another hangdog where I found a way to slightly adjust the right hand. With that placing the foot is still completely blind, but at least a bit more secure. Then another two failed attempts executing said new beta, before I finally did it. Overall 11 attempts.
The mantle is clearly the crux, everything before is a lot easier. Still seems hard for the grade. I wont upgrade it before at least trying one of the 7a routes though. |
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6a+ | Ohne Seil? — 3 attempts - with Diana | 16m | ||||
Still remembered what to do from last time but fell twice anyway before finally doing it.
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6a | Naturgewalt - with Diana | 14m | ||||
I found the last part to the anchor pretty hard to onsight. Grade is fair though.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Pfelders | ||||||
6c+ Hard | Adrenalinjunkie — 5 attempts - with Diana | 10m | ||||
Took me a long time to find a beta for the mantle, and then I failed three times at executing it from the ground. Seems pretty hard for the grade, but I guess it's fair since all moves before and after are not that bad.
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6a | La-La - with Diana | 12m | ||||
6a | Plattenschleicher - with Diana | 12m | ||||
5a | ★★ Niki - with Diana | |||||
Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Zahmer Kaiser | ||||||
Steingrubenwand | ||||||
4+ | Graupelschauer - with Diana | 5 | ||||
7- Hard | Topfenstrudel — 3 attempts - with Diana | 3 | ||||
Shitty feet, polished like hell. Hard for the grade.
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6 | Helmpflicht - with Diana | 4 | ||||
Retro-flash, Had already done this one in 2018.
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4 | Etwas seriöser - with Diana | 4 | ||||
3 | Etwas schräg - with Diana | |||||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Unteres Inntal | ||||||
Biber | ||||||
8- | ★★ Mittlere Route — 2 attempts - with Diana | 12m | ||||
Used a completely different beta than what I had sussed out last time...
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8 | ★★ Allmächd - with Diana | |||||
Should be possible. Seems mostly a challenge of pain tolerance considering all the sharp pockets.
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6+ | ★ Faultierriss - with Diana | |||||
Wed 21st Jun 2023 - Pfelders | ||||||
5b | ★ Die Hard - with Diana | 16m | ||||
Surprisingly dirty in some places
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6a | Kobold - with Diana | 15m | ||||
6b | Aris — 2 attempts - with Diana | 15m | ||||
6b+ | Wurschtl - with Diana | 14m | ||||
No time for a redpoint before the rain.
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Tue 20th Jun 2023 - Pfelders | ||||||
3 |
Olli P1
- with
Diana
1
3
6m
| 6m | ||||
4 | Affensteil - with Diana | 6m | ||||
4 | ★★ Geil gewesen - with Diana | 5m | ||||
6c | Schurke — 2 attempts - with Diana | 10m | ||||
All about the mantle...
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5b+ | Altersschwäche - with Diana | 16m | ||||
Either this is soft, or "Arbeitslos" is hard.
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6b+ | ★★ Spargeltarzan - with Diana | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical
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4a | Otto - with Diana | 8m | Average | |||
Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Pfelders | ||||||
4 | Coole Jungs - with Diana | 5m | ||||
The start is #morpho as hell. The whole route is comparatively dirty. Doesn't seem very popular.
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6c+ | Hart gewesen — 3 attempts - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Crimpy, sharp granite and it took me three attempts. Goodbye fingertips, time for a restday.
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6a+ | Ohne Seil? - with Diana | 16m | ||||
Oh boy. Such a nice and flowy route and then the last move to the anchor slaps you in the face
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6a | Eisenmangel - with Diana | 14m | ||||
5c | ★★ Vitaminspritze - with Diana | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Pfelders | ||||||
6a | Schatzi - with Diana | 15m | ||||
5b+ | Arbeitslos - with Diana | 16m | ||||
6b | ★ Pinocchio - with Diana | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Plottenschleicher - with Diana | 12m | ||||
Not as slabby as the name suggests
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Ruhpolding | ||||||
Plaisirwandl | ||||||
6 | ★ Kundenservice - with Diana | 15m, 5 | ||||
7 | ★ Route 13 - with Diana | 15m, 6 | ||||
Took me an eternity to figure out the first bulge, No more time for the redpoint today.
Does not share the anchor with the route to the left of it.
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5+ | ★★★ Route 10 - with Diana | 16m | ||||
6 | ★★ Brotzeit Kant'n - with Diana | 10m, 3 | ||||
3+ | ★★ Primas - with Diana | 11m | ||||
4 | ★★ Rampe - with Diana | 10m, 4 | ||||
4 | ★★ Plaisirwandl - with Diana | 15m | ||||
Easier, or at least more obvious than the one to the right
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5+ | ★★ Dachl - with Diana | 15m, 6 | ||||
First bolt seems hard for the grade if you climb it very directly
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Auerwandl | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Varioplatte 1 - with Diana | 15m, 8 | ||||
5 | ★★ Gmahde Wiesn - with Diana | 16m, 8 | ||||
6+ | ★ Amigo - with Diana | 18m, 9 | ||||
Extremely mad at myself for grabbing the anchor instead of doing one more move. Took it as a sign to end the session...
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6 | ★★ Alpinfuchs - with Diana | 18m, 8 | ||||
6 seems fair, but hard to onsight.
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5 ~6- | ★★ Sichel direkt - with Diana | 16m, 8 | ||||
6- in Bayrische Alpen 1. I agree.
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