Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Shire | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ K.S.B. - with Sam Allison, Mason Halstrom, Ellie | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice route, great flow, cool holds and a striking line. Only downside to the entire route is the clipping hold for the anchors
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Gallery | ||||||
5.9 Hard | Crimpy and the Brain - with Sam Allison | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Didn't really enjoy this one, thought it could be the worst and most difficult of the three routes.
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5.10d | ★ All Draws & No Brains - with Sam Allison | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Not too interesting and pretty sharp. Hard start to easier climbing above.
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5.10b | ★ No Brain, No Pain - with Sam Allison | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The best of the three, but still not that great. Good movement but kind of sharp and/or poor rock the whole way. Fun bouldery start though!
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5.10b | ★ Murano - with Sam Allison | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice plate climbing down low, to nice slab climbing above. I may have skirted the crux by going left near the top, but it doesn't seem logical to do anything else there, the jugs are only a foot away from the quickdraw. Overall a great climb and a nice warmup!
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5.10d ~5.10d | ★★ Happy Trails - with Sam Allison | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, this one is challenging. If it were graded 5.11b, I wouldn't bat an eye. Super fun movement the whole way up, but definitely intimidating to stand on some of those footholds when you can't see them. So many times on this one I wanted to bail haha.
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Motherlode | ||||||
5.11d Hard | ★★ Stella - with Susan Reed | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Three Tries. This thing felt impossibly hard two weeks ago, today it felt pretty chill. Super relaxed and velcro'd to every hold, fun drop knee into a deep two finger pocket at the top of the route. So psyched to finally do my first route on the Undertow and start my R to L journey!
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Purgatory | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Jumbo Shrimp - with David Pierdinock | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I've heard this route mentioned when talking about the worst routes in the Red, but that can't be further from the truth. The first three bolts aren't the sickest but they aren't bad, and then its awesome to the top. Super cool rockover move at the top!
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5.10a | ★★ The Gimp - with David Pierdinock | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This thing is sick. I'd always thought this one and its neighbor were choss, but turns out they are really sick. I think this one might be a top-tier 5.10a in the red. This one is slightly better than its neighbor but both are worth doing for sure.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow Bronaugh Wall | ||||||
5.12a Easy | ★★ Little Teapot - with David Pierdinock | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second Try. David finished off Bronaugh Wall. Short and Stout haha. Pretty fun movement for how short of a route it was. Jumped to the first right hand crimp off the ledge and then had some quite fun moves to the top. I didn't really use the crack, rather I used the right hand jug and just went straight to the jug above the crack. Felt low end of the grade, but maybe it's just a benchmark strength thing.
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow The Dark Side | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Barn Dance - with Daniel Gershin, Wes Payette, Ryan Strong | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second Try. Tried at the end of the day a few days ago with Kaylee on belay, and it was a bit wet coaxing me into grabbing the last draw. Super interesting climbing the whole way with unique movement and cool holds. Definitely on the heady side, but I don't think it's particularly dangerous. Crux involved a long reach from an undercling into a slope-y mono for me. The Swahili Slang of 5.10!
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Military Wall | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ All Things Considered - with Mason Halstrom, Ellie | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Second Try. Maybe could have onsighted, if I had chosen to start from the right, but I chose to start from the left and got a bit stuck at the first quickdraw. This route is absolutely all time, it's soooooo seahawk! The flow is incredible, the moves are unique, the holds are pleasant. Truly amazed by how much variety of quality routes there are in the Red. Climbed it very quickly on the redpoint try and felt very secure the whole way. One of the best I've ever done!
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5.11b | ★★★ Parting Gift - with Mason Halstrom, Ellie | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
My favorite pitch I've ever done, is the last pitch I've done. This thing is fricking sick. Best warmup for the military wall by a long shot with sick movement and sick holds the whole way. Maybe a bit short, but Gawd is it fun. Slope-y sidepulls down low and a nice jug every few moves. Frick me, I love climbing. Always a great day climbing with Mason!
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Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.11a Hard | ★ Maypop - with Helios | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Second Try. Slipped off the first foothold, if I had wiped my shoe off maybe I wouldn't have. Soooooo hard. I death crimped my way up this thing and it was still desperate. Maybe the hardest 11a I've ever done and it wasn't just the start, everything was hard. Fun day with Helios trying Mercy, managed to punt three times off the top of it.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Crossroads | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Spoiler Bait - with Susan Reed, Michael | 14m | ★ Good | |||
The best of days at the Dark Side with Susan and Michael. Had lots of success on The Force, Swingline, and Evil Emperor. I swear I can climb two grades harder with Susan belaying, don't know why but it's sick. Popped over to Crossroads at the end of the day to get Michael on Boilerplate and I climbed its neighbor for the first time. Alright route but it's nothing to write home about.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Bright Side | ||||||
5.9 Hard | Crazy Eyes - with Andrew Matthews | 11m, 4 | Crap | |||
Quite possibly the worst route I've ever climbed. Wet, dirty, chossy; what more could you ask for? Still had a lot of fun though, starting to find my groove in this whole red river gorge choss adventure thing. Later in the day, Andrew and I tried the Tube, very fun day!
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Solar Collector | ||||||
5.11a Hard | ★ Green Horn - with Andrew Matthews | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Of the three, probably the hardest and most unpleasant beginning with the easiest and most enjoyable top. The start of mona lisa into the top of this one would be so nice. The bottom boulder revolved around a hidden pocket that isn't sick to a heinous full crimper that also isn't sick. Probably wouldn't climb again.
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5.11b Easy | ★★ Mona Lisa Overdrive - with Andrew Matthews | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Possibly the easiest and best of the three, but that might just be because Andrew gave me really good beta spray for the bottom boulder. Really fun boulder problem with a gaston, sidepull and undercling (no heinous holds just position-y holds) to a no hands and then pumpy jug hauling to the top. Really nice route, would do again!
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Thu 5th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Chocolate Factory Malice Area | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sugar Rush - with Mason Halstrom | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit scary, but quite nice! Lots of friction moves.
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5.9 | ★★ Augustus Gloop - with Mason Halstrom | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Can't imagine a 5.9 slab any better than this one. Really nice climbing, best of the three!
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Land Before Time Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Sabertooth - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Super hard start and then easier climbing, got a bit scrappy with it.
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5.10a | ★ Watering Hole - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Very short, nothing too memorable.
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5.9 | ★ Neanderfall - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Perma wet and frustrating anchor placement, but fun movement.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Practice Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Beta Spewer - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun jug climbing, worth doing if at the crag!
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5.9 | ★ Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Weird Climb. Wouldn't recommend.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Low Exposure - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
I crimped really hard. Not a very good route.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley The Bowling Alley | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Africtionado - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 tries. The best of the bunch! Really fun friction climbing, with lots of tricky presses and high feet!
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5.8 | ★ Slabracadabra - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The easiest of the bunch, pretty good but not memorable.
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5.8 Hard | ★ Yellow Slabmarine - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Somewhere around 5 tries. I have a feeling most people trav in from the left, but that's no fun. Getting off the ground was proper hein, but I found a way with a left mantle palm press, a high right foot above my hand and then a left hand foot match. The rest of the climbing was okay, but not memorable.
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5.9 | ★ Slabbatical - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nothing particularly memorable about this one, but it wasn't bad.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Sunnyside | ||||||
5.11b Easy | ★★ Weed Eater - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really fun climbing with a distinct crux at the third quickdraw. Lots of sit-down/laydown rests and very approachable for the grade!
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5.10b | ★★ Machete - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just a slightly easier and less fun version of Weed Eater! Fun mantle at the end and jug climbing up to there with a distinct crux that unfortunately wasn't that fun.
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5.9 ~5.6 | ★★ Jacobs Ladder - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty fun route, definitely worth doing for the grade. I agree with Mountain Project that it's probably a bit closer to 5.6 than 5.9. Climbed up and then downclimbed back to where Machete branches off to climb that one.
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5.9 Hard | ★ Kokopeli's Dream - with Mason Halstrom, Isa Simon | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Cool feature but not very sick. Felt pretty hard for the grade, but not in an enjoyable way.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - with Elliott Pryor | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2nd Try. This thing is all time! Probably the most fun I've ever had climbing in the sun. The position is out of this world, as soon as you hit the arete you are above the tree line and climb about 35 ft on the arete with the most amazing view and the route tops out, how does it get any better! The only negative to this climb is the lack of bolts in the first section of climbing, not the most approachable for the 5.10 leader because of this. An incredible close to an amazing day of easy climbing, if every 5.10 was like this I would never feel the need to climb anything harder.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!
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5.6 Hard | ★ Bobby D's Bunny - with Elliott Pryor | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Strong Arming the Little Guy - with Caleb Mattson, Sam | 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd Try. Probably the hardest 5.10 I've ever done, super interesting movement on underclings and slopers, but unfortunately I was about 2 inches too short to use any of the good footholds. Not an easy section of climbing on the route. Got a bit flash pumped, and then went for a swim in the lake after.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bummer. I really expected this thing to be all time, and sure it was good but it certainly left a lot to be desired. The bottom was uninspiring and lacked a clear line, and many of the holds seemed chossy. Once you pull around to the right side of the arete, however, the route is amazing. Super fun face climbing on cool holds and even a sinker mono in the crux if you choose to use it. If the whole climb was as good as the last two bolts this thing would be all time but unfortunately that wasn't the case.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Preparation H - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2nd Try. Really sick route, with incredible sequences throughout. Hard moves off the ground were unenjoyable on the flash try, but felt sick on the go. Climbing to the 5th quickdraw is just some could old-fashioned arete liebacking movement with a sick toe perch to gain a crimp, and the boulder after pulling around the corner is divine with sequential footwork and an incredible float move out right. Felt a really good flow on this one and was psyched to do it soft 2nd.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First route at the New! This one was on the all-time list, in fact, the only 5.10 from the New to make the list, and I've been nervous it wouldn't live up to the hype. Lucky for me, it turned out to be as sick as a 5.10 can be. Straightforward long lock-offs, balancy and thoughtful sections, and a really nice section with jugs and horizontal hand jams. People say this one is polished, but I thought it was in incredible shape for its popularity. Went back up a second time and got some crux footy from Caleb to hopefully put into the blog.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow The Dark Side | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Younglings - with David Pierdinock | 40m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
A fun addition to the warm-up circuit from Billy. Tricky and difficult crux up at the top off of a juggy two finger undercling pocket.
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5.10a | ★ Padawan - with David Pierdinock | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
2nd Try. Tried years ago with Ricardo and couldn't get to the top. Good rock climb, but not as good as its neighbor to the left. First day on Swingline with Ben Foster!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Brother Stair - with Susan Reed | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The best of climbing days! So much fun to check out climbs that always seemed to so big and scary (Table of Colors and Too Many Puppies) and I couldn't imagine a better person to overcome that intimidation with! Fun warmup with a hard start and jug climbing above that.
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Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley The Guide Wall | ||||||
5.8 Easy | ★ Mona Lisa Crack - with Jonah | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Really fun climb that is no where close to as difficult to the route on the left. Tie for the best on the wall with its neighbor.
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5.8 Hard | ★ Built for Life - with Jonah | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Crimpy finish, pretty tough for 5.8, a toss up between this and mona lisa crack for best on the wall!
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5.7 | The Archeologist - with Jonah | 9m | Average | |||
Nothing to write home about, not bad but not interesting in the slightest.
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5.7 | ★ Fear of Commitment - with Jonah | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The best of all the short routes at the crag. Worth doing, especially for a new climber.
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5.8 Easy | Irish Mud - with Jonah | 8m | Average | |||
Short but a good route nonetheless.
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5.7 Hard | Parks and Rec. - with Jonah | 8m | Don't Bother | |||
Definitely the worst and hardest climb at the crag.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Miller Fork Recreational Preserve Cooper's Cove | ||||||
5.8 | Nystagmus - with Caleb Mattson, Sam | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Very glad I didn't expect what was coming, I thought pulling the initial bulge off the ground would be the crux and then a romp to the anchors. Turns out the last bolt length of climbing features a sick move through an incredibly blank section of rock. The route however wasn't that sick despite the fun I found in the surprise ending.
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5.8 Hard | Feets Don't Fail Me Now - with Caleb Mattson, Sam | Crap | ||||
This might in all honesty be the worst rock climb I've ever done, but I had a good time. Kinda scary hanging the first draw on bad footholds, then you climb through shrubbery to bulges that force you onto bad footholds that feel like they are gonna snap if you breath in their direction. Kinda heinous, but we made it through.
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5.7 | ★★ Tight Spot - with Caleb Mattson, Sam | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun chimney to a bit of an exposed slab that was really enjoyable! Would recommend!
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Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region The Zoo | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Hippocrite - with Sam | 14m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
4 Tries and sent in a day. Nice no hands kneebar before the crux, but still quite hard for the grade imo. Fell on the big move the first three times, and made tweaks everytime with the foot beta, luckily for my fourth go I found a really good foot beta and it made that move kinda chill, would've done second try if I had found that foot beta quicker. The top felt super chill on every go except for the RP, and it was quite the fight in that case. Really nice short route with fun moves and interesting holds, only downside is how sharp the jugs are.
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★ Don't Take Yer Guns to Town - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Not a big fan of this one, not the most sick climbing leads to a hard move that is pretty awkward, and then another awkward move to a bad clipping hold for the chains.
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5.10c | ★ Hey there, fancy pants - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second Try, but that's because I tried it once years ago. This is probably the first time, I've ever enjoyed a route more because it was wet. The movement is really cool with large-ish moves in between good holds and a crimpy move at the top. Always nice to do a route easily that once felt hard.
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Recess Rock | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Hall Monitor - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns, Ben Rogers | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second Try! Soaking wet, but I actually really enjoyed the movement on this one. I used three monos and three two finger pockets, and had to use very specific beta for the crux. I imagine this one would be sick if it was dry. First crag in the Red I've sent every route at!
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5.3 | ★ Child's Play - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns, Ben Rogers | 3 | ★ Good | |||
My least favorite climb on the slab, but that's not to say it was bad.
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5.4 | ★ T's Knobs - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns, Ben Rogers | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty average, but I imagine it would be pretty fun as a beginner.
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5.4 | ★★ School of Rock - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns, Ben Rogers | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Probably the best climb on the slab, really fun flake climbing up a low angle slab! Lead-soloed this one!
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5.4 | ★ Who Pooped the Playground - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns, Ben Rogers | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty fun arete, definitely worth doing if you are a newer climber.
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5.1 | ★★ Scrambled Eggs - with Kaylee Vogl, Chelsea Burns, Ben Rogers | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First 5.1! Actually some fun movement even though it's covered in moss. Good thing we roped up for this one, Kaylee took a massive TR whipper!
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
Hanshallaren Flaggermusmannen | ||||||
6b+ Easy | ★★ Ukjent - with Lohan Lizin, BIlly Porter | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Really nice climb! Way too short to be classic, but the movement is much nicer than that on the 6c. Incredibly easy for the grade though, onsighted, downclimbed and climbed up again as a warmup! The biggest crux is finding an undercling above your head when the chalk begs you to go left!
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Flatanger | ||||||
Hanshallaren Flaggermusmannen | ||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Hovdegjengen - with Lohan Lizin, BIlly Porter | ★ Good | ||||
Hardest 6c ever! Took 3 tries and quite an awkward beta to solve. If it weren't for the crux and the length this climb would be incredible!
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Mon 26th Jun 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Highwire crag | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ 5th of July - with Kole Hicks | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This one is seriously sick. Sustained movement and cool holds the whole way!
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5.7 | ★ stonecold moderate - with Kole Hicks | ★★ Very Good | ||||
We both found this one harder than the 5.9 just to the right. Cool climbing except for the finish.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Rocky Mountain National Park | ||||||
Tyndall Gorge Emerald Lake | ||||||
V7 | ★★ Mr. Wimpy - with Tommy Ellis | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I've tried this boulder in the past and always thought it was really hard, today I did it second try using a right ghost knee beta and fell in love with this boulder! Would be classic if it wasn't contrived! Def will repeat in the future!
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Tue 16th May 2023 - Rocky Mountain National Park | ||||||
Wild Basin Thug Roof | ||||||
V5 ~V4 | ★★ Dharma Bums | ★ Good | ||||
Solo session, a bit scary of a top out without pads, but overall a decent line. Much better from the low though!
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Thu 30th Mar 2023 - Bend Area | ||||||
Cascade Lakes Highway Meadow Camp | ||||||
V4 ~V5 | ★★★ Ground Chuck - with Alex Harry, Noah, Max | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Third T from the B, pretty dang hard for a V5 (guidebook grade) especially if you do the OG beta, skipped the pocket all together and went big with the right hand. Really fun boulder, and I suspect in the top 10 of Oregon.
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Wed 15th Mar 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Overboard Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Nine Gallon Buckets - with Tommy Ellis | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tommy's first day in Smith! Glad to finally get on this one, surprisingly a bit pumpy, cruxes were pretty fun, and the jug climbing was as good as it gets! Hottest day I've climbed at Smith and my tips rolled instantly on bolt 9 of To Bolt, sad day...
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Fri 3rd Mar 2023 - Smith Rock State Park | ||||||
Morning Glory Wall Area Zebra Area | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Five Gallon Buckets - with kaylee pollock | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First day in Smith this year, can't believe I didn't do this one last year. Incredibly fun, and a bit scary for the grade. I can't think of a better climb anywhere as a first pitch of the day, less of a warm up and more of just an enjoyable way to start a day. Resisted the urge to kneebar 35 times because I had shorts on.
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Southern Slope The Lesbian Love Grotto | ||||||
V2 Hard | ★★★ Ghetto Simulator - with Tommy Ellis | 9m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wow! A one of a kind boulder, thirty moves and you can step off at almost any point, but not a good idea to fall. Got pretty pumped and had to try harder than I wanted to at the end. Figured out the crux move on Diabolique later in the day making today the best day of bouldering ever for me!
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Tue 7th Feb 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur Northwest Lobe Of East Spur | ||||||
V0 | ★★★ The Handcuff Trick - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Duke Lettieri, Tommy Ellis | 9m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Seahawk Scaling! Right after Pabs almost flashed Nagual! Almost felt like I was back free scaling the big walls in Yosemite!
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Sun 5th Feb 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Top of the Chains New Meadow | ||||||
V3 Hard | ★★ La Delicate - with Tommy Ellis | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second Try. I really thought I was gonna like this one more than I did, honestly might be harder than Slim Pickins, didn't really find a nice flow on this one, but maybe it's because I was supposed to be resting.
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V5 | ★★★ Lobster Claw - with Tommy Ellis | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Second Try. Rest day but couldn't avoid climbing on this classic bloc. Nice crew and Ariana giving all the dance and sending vibes, go off queen! So many betas and so much fun, I used four left kneebars on this one. Chuffed Fern Roof later in the day.
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Fri 3rd Feb 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Northern Slope Mammary Lane and The Morgue Mammary Lane | ||||||
V10 Easy | ★★ Une Pointe de Bleau dans un Hueco - with Josiah Stanton, Brenner Rauch, Tommy Ellis | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Four Tries (Five Minutes). Really fun kneebar boulder problem, didn't feel too hard to me, but the homies couldn't tech it out so I'm assuming its hard. Definitely not a benchmark for the grade in style or difficulty, but nice to do something other people thought was V10! Brenner just doesn't understand.
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Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Eastern Slope Lower Lost Boulders Lost Cause Boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Lip Sync | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun movement but nothing special, probs would never repeat.
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Eastern Slope Little Itty Bitty Adolescent Titties Wall The Chain Wall | ||||||
V2 Hard | ★★ Cast Iron - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Third Try. Tommy, I'm scared and want to go home now. Not my cup of tea.
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V0 | ★★ Men In Chains - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This one is stellar, you can see the line clearly from East Mountain, and the holds are all mega buckets. V-fun, worth doing again.
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V0+ | ★★★ Bawl And Chain - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty sick one, not too difficult and every move gets easier
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Mon 23rd Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Top of the Chains The Small Potatoes The Baker | ||||||
V2 Hard | ★★ And the Bucket of Parts - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty awkward climbing on a sick feature with sick grips. Climbs a lot worse than it looks.
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur Wally World Bad Religion Wall | ||||||
V7 Easy | ★★ New Religion - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Josiah Stanton, Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Second Try. Absolutely punted the top on the flash. Feel conflicted about taking V7 for this one, but I'm feeling mellow today and this boulder is just soooooo seahawk. One of my favorite boulders of all time for sure. Didn't think I would be able to do it when I read the description, but it ended up being a boulder that fit me pretty well. Super surprised to stick the jump on the flash, I can't get over how amazing this boulder is.
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur Wally World Gunks Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Walrus In A Blender - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Josiah Stanton, Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Third Try. Super fun boulder, but I'm conflicted. I did the dyno first, but there's kneebar beta that makes this thing like V1 in my opinion, just plug the knee and sit up to the jug you jump to, but Zach couldn't figure out the kneebar so I won't downgrade, and let myself believe the kneebar is difficult to do. The dyno is super seahawk though!
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V2 | ★★ The Vulgarian - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Josiah Stanton, Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A lot of people say this thing is on par with Ghetto and Nobody, that opinion is choss. I mean it's okay, but definitely not all time. The holds aren't even comfortable and the moves aren't super inspiring. It is an amazing boulder to look at though!!
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur East Spur Maze Slim Pickins Face | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Slim Pickins - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Josiah Stanton, Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Third try, wish I would've used my brain for two seconds before establishing on the boulder and I probably would've flashed it. They say this is the hardest V5 and hardest slab in Hueco, but it would probably only be V3 in Yosemite. jkjk This thing is proud and is a great test for anyone. One of my all time favorite boulders, ran it three times in a row to make sure it wasn't a fluke and third time was in the theories to make sure it wasn't just because I have the best pair of shoes on the planet for this slab. I honestly don't think I would fall off this thing if I ran it 100 more times. Incredible that a slab can be this difficulty and sooooo secure! ALL TIME!!!
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur East Spur Maze Wheaties Wall | ||||||
V5 | ★ Meatmaker - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Josiah Stanton, Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tommy's first V5!!! Rapid fired this one into oblivion, couldn't do it the way everyone else did it, so I kneebarred the first two moves and actually ended up with a technical sequence that was seahawk. Incredibly chossy top though.
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur East Spur Maze Toejam Boulder | ||||||
V0 | ★★ Stinkfoot - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Josiah Stanton, Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wasn't on the list, but it was seahawk indeed. Long moves on incuts up an intimidating slab! Super secure climbing, glad Zach got us on this one!
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Spur East Spur Maze Ten Foot Wall | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Black And Blue - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Josiah Stanton, Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Honestly not as good as it looks...
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Thu 19th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Northern Slope Mammary Lane and The Morgue The Morgue | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ T-Bone Shuffle - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | 6m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Flash without crashpads, opted for a left toe out wide and a lunge, satisfying to stick the move that way on the flash. Did the drop knee beta with sneaks after we got crashpads under it, will try to do it as a straight up dyno next time but it felt a little sketch to try with only two pads. Amazing little boulder and one of the more fun jug traverses, no wonder this is the most sent V4 in Hueco.
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Thu 19th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Northern Slope Sign Of The Cross | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Skimmer - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty seahawk movement on a short dabby boulder. Lots of interesting moves packed into two square feet of rock. Would be all time, if the crux wasn't dabbing! Not worth using a pad for, unless you want to have a power spot through the whole climb.
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V1 Easy | ★★★ Cathedral Corner - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty boulder and a bit intimidating because of the position, but turned out to only be one move and you were on jugs.
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V0 Hard | ★★ Memento - with Tommy Ellis, Tea Rush | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun warm-up, but nothing special. Would've been better if it hadn't been a sit start.
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
East Mountain Warm Up Roof Area Warm Up Roof | ||||||
V4 | ★★★ The Warm Up Roof - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Ben Burkhalter | 8m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sick, but not Seahawk. Ben said it was the perfect warm up though, so I guess it's all time lol! Incredible day of climbing!
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V2 | ★★ The Guillotine - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock, Ben Burkhalter | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good, but nothing to special, just a nice juggy warmup that's a little sharp. If I was a V2 climber I'd be psyched though!
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Thu 12th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
West Mountain Between The Sheets And Scab Wall Above The Scab Wall | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Star Power - with Zach Steiner, Bryce Belshin, Ali Alsaedi | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Second T from the B, but sussed every move before trying after my flash try. Foot jam that Bryce found worked like magic for the crux! Amazing boulder would be all time if it weren't so dabby, but it's still mega, those holds were made in a warehouse for sure and I don't know if I've ever experienced a climbing flow like that before, so many moves and no stopping!
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Top of the Chains Nuclear Arms/Blood And Gore Area The Grenade | ||||||
V2 Easy | ★★★ Nobody Here Gets Out Alive - with Zach Steiner, Pablo Hammock | 6m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Incredible movement, and it's possible the best movement is found on the top out! Would be absolutely all time if it was a bit longer, shame the starting jug got ripped off. Those holds were meant to be climbed, unreal!
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Northern Slope Sign Of The Cross | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Sign Of The Cross - with Lauren Kelley, Max Pedersen, Kyle Howard | 5m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wow that was fun! The Original V3, actually didn't feel hard like everyone says it is. Just perched on that foot and opened the hips. Incredibly fun though and definitely did another lap! Mega classic for the history!
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Northern Slope The Gums Area Gums Wall | ||||||
V2 Hard | ★★★ Gums - with Isabel Fetter, Lauren Kelley, Max Pedersen | 6m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Second Try. Got the hands mixed up on the flash and stepped off. This was so fun, almost felt like the 5.11 section of climbing on Peace, just mega full crimping on little nubs, two finger crimps are definitely my favorite type of hold. A little high and probably wouldn't wanna fall because of the boulder behind you, but it's pretty secure the whole way! Mega in my opinion but it definitely wouldn't be everyones cup of tea!
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Hueco Tanks | ||||||
North Mountain Northern Slope Choss Area Choss Wall | ||||||
V3 | ★ Choss Training | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Three tries. The move looks cool, but doesn't feel cool. Kinda choss if you ask me, and definitely not seahawk, but I also can see the appeal.
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