Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Unknown | ||||||||
15 | ★ Gopher | 15m | Coffs Harbour | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
Trad | ||||||||
21 | ★★ Airtime Over Pumicestone - with sgodwin | 250m, 24 | Mt Tibrogargan | Sun 4th Nov 2012 | ||||
The first pitch isn't inspiring but from half way through the second until the very end it's high quality fun all the way. Scott lead most of it while I lead the crux pitch.
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22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer - with Chris L, Pat Kirby, Tim Kirby, Fabien | 40m, 12 | Cape Raoul | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Jan 2015 | |||
Utter mega classic. 3rd time lucky, the route is great even without the location, but certainly one of the best routes I've ever climbed. Rest at crux on 7th bolt and pumped out again at the mantle onto the top
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22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer - with Chris L | 40m, 12 | Cape Raoul | Fri 2nd Jan 2015 | ||||
Lead the easy first pitch with minimal pro. Then waited at the base for the other party to finish for ages. Got very cold as the winds built up and eventually decided to bail and very glad we did.
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25 |
★★★ The Free Route (The Free Route P2)
- with
Will Monks
2
| 65m, 8 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd Jan 2014 | |||
Climbing is great, alternating crimp sets then good rests. Got super pumped after a fall on the crux and then numb jelly arms from then on.
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24 | ★★★ Deep Play - with Will Monks | 20m, 6 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd Jan 2014 | |||
While belaying Will up, would attempt to dodge waves smashing the north wall and shooting up vertically well over my head. Stayed mostly dry until I pulled on and got my first 'deep play enema'. Aiding up wet rock using a 2m sling off the first bolt, then after drying feet easier to ledge. Fingers completely numb, climbing zombie style
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18 | ★★★ Innocence | 25m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2006 | |||
23 | ★ Ego | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ★ Good | Wed 5th Dec 2012 | |||
Anchors we're down the slab a little so not a proper tick. The last slab move is hard, the rest of the route is probably 5 grades easier.
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18 | ★★★ Innocence - with Hamish Caddy | 25m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd May 2009 | |||
18 | ★★★ Innocence - with Blue Mountains Orangutan | 25m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jul 2023 | |||
So good, a couple spicy moves still but its all there
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20 |
★★ Rites Of Passage
- with
Michael Moore
1
Rapped in and scrubbed what I thought was the line. Got to second bolt and ventured right into nothing, footer broke and fell. Jugged up the rap line and did some lichen archaeology and found the real line and then resumed from the second bolt clean to the top. The crux is start of the arete at the 4th bolt and pretty happy to flash the real line. Honestly tempted to log the whole route as a flash just to see if @best_of_thecrag pulls me up on it
2
Kept going up this stellar hand crack as a single pitch. | 45m, 5 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | |||
This one has been on the list for ages and I should have done it years ago, its one of the best routes in the gorge! It climbs well and it's in a top spot
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17 | ★ Modern Electrics | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
21 | Leaving on your Mind | 20m, 4 | Upper Gara Gorge | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | ||||
17 | ★ Modern Electrics - with Hannah Smart, Nari | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | ||||
21 | ★★ Headbanger - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Jun 2018 | |||
I'm gonna make the bold call that this is one of the best routes I've done at Ebor. Feel like a sports route relocated from a completely different crag. Worlds apart from Tough customer in grade and style
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16 | ★★ A Dash of Loneliness - with Michael Moore | 20m, 4 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||
Cruisy and flowly and a delight, just like impunity but more consistent. A #3 works in the first horizontal but a #4 is better
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19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks - with Ben Vincent | 20m, 4 | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||
17 | ★ Modern Electrics - with Benji Dutaillis, Todd Free, Katrina | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||
The spicy finish never gets old
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26 | The Proverbial - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 4 | Ebor Gorge | Fri 28th Jun 2019 | ||||
Belayed Ben on this and we bailed on second bolt
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20 | ★★ Ilean | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | Tue 11th Jul 2006 | ||||
20 | ★★ Sucking Faces | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
17 | ★ Yuppie | 18m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
16 | ★ Svea | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Jun 2002 | |||
20 | ★★ Sucking Faces - with Amy O'Toole | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Sep 2015 | |||
Love this classic
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25 | ★★★ Picnic at Hanging Rock - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 31st Oct 2015 | |||
Utterly frothing over this! Tried this a bunch over the years - the last time was at least a decade ago. Alan Ezzy worked it out, then Ben Vincent did it smoothly, then I went up with no (or low?) expectations, pulled on easily, forgot to unclip, unclipped mid crux statically, chilled out then moved smoothly through the awkward bit to the top rope. I've been so shut down on this before and I couldn't be happier. Probably should have done it again on lead like the others but stoked regardless.
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20 | ★★ Ilean - with Hannah Smart, Nari | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | |||
Really dig this
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15 | ★★★ Impunity - with Blue Mountains Orangutan | 20m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 16th Jul 2023 | |||
Fun and flowy, fairly consistent and a great warm up for Innocence in a similar style
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17 | ★ Keystone corruption - with Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | Average | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||
I was originally going to do the real easy far right zig zag but got a bit sketched by the levitating arch. It seems solid but I definitely won't be putting gear near it. The move onto the slab is interesting but it's over too quick and the grassy ledge section at the top out is not ideal.
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19 | ★★ Springer - with Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||
The boulder start to this is really cool
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21 Easy | ★★ Capstone Project - with Simon Porter, Ben Vincent | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Nov 2023 | |||
Lots of mental rehearsal. Once you commit and get into it it’s not too bad, holds are pretty juggy and the mantle is probably technically the crux.
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16 | ★ Svea - with Scott Camps, Vaschka Koboroff | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | |||
Love this, but the start is nails for a 16
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20 | ★★ Ilean - with Benji Dutaillis, Todd Free, Katrina | 15m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||
I really love this route, flows well
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19 | ★ Unknown face - with Ben Vincent, Richard Curtis, Alex, Carol, Iliane Beuke, Narelle | 12m, 3 | Ebor Gorge | Sun 26th Jul 2015 | ||||
Mostly onsight with a few stops to do some gardening. Face moves are nice once clean
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21 Easy | ★★ Capstone Project - with Noah Craven | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | |||
Working and aided the moves
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21 Easy | ★★ Capstone Project - with Simon Porter | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Oct 2023 | |||
Route was naturally a bit dirty again, takes slight bit of shine off. Progress was made. Route is in shade until 10am
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21 Easy | ★★ Capstone Project - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 1st Dec 2023 | |||
Did the traverse fine and then gassed myself on the mantle. Needed to just get much deeper and palm up and fight a bit more. Don't think my commitment level was the same with time limit and heat. I think I was expecting it to feel a lot easier the second time round.
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25 | ★★★ Picnic at Hanging Rock - with Michael Moore | 10m, 3 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 29th Apr 2022 | |||
Glad Michael made me get back on this, super stoked to get the 3rd bolt on the first go. Worked the top a bit and got the second crux, didn't do the top slab.
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21 | ★★ Wired World of Sport | 10m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
21 | ★ Faith | 20m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
21 | Funky Homo Aretus | 10m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sat 8th Jun 2002 | ||||
17 | ★★ Bovine | 12m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | 2005 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site - with Tim and Pat and Max | 30m, 2 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 12th Jan 2014 | |||
Finally after 2 years got back and finished business. No storms in sight this time
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24 | ★★ New Blue Dress - with carol lee | 10m, 2 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | |||
No grunting, clean. Was keen to have a red point attempt but got distracted
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24 | ★★ Heaving Falcons - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Aug 2018 | |||
Utterly stoked to second this clean, one of the hardest brawls I've had with a route. The first layback gets you warm quickly. Was able to rest properly this time in the first roof, busted across and then managed to find an almost comfortable full lie down rest with a knee bar holding me in. Pulled the lip expecting to pop and just held on breathing hard and trying to slow down for the rest. Just lay down for 5 mins at the top trying to breath and not dry retch
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18 | ★★★ Eurydice - with Ben Vincent | 65m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Aug 2019 | |||
On pitch 1 had a little fun fishing out one of bens big cams which was in deep and I couldn't quite get my chest in deep enough to release it. The move over the lip to the midway ledge is cool. Ben started up the second pitch on dusk and I went up by headlamp
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18 | ★★★ Sacred Site - with Ben Vincent, Iliane Beuke | 30m, 2 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 8th Feb 2015 | |||
Cruisy! Only put in 3 bits of gear, a bit windy at the start but awesome cool conditions considering it was forecast to be 28
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16 | ★ Eat The Meat | 10m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Sat 6th Jan 2007 | ||||
21 | ★★ Destructive Wombats - with Ben Vincent | 20m, 2 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||
Super fun! I think this might be my fav route of the day, the second half of pockety goodness is bouldery and very happy to pick my way through the swiss cheese
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19 | ★ Don't Chew The Fat | 10m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Sat 6th Jan 2007 | ||||
20 | ★★ Bounty's Revenge | 15m, 2 | Coffs Harbour | Sat 6th Jan 2007 | ||||
24 | ★★ New Blue Dress - with Nari | 10m, 2 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | |||
Made some quality grunting noises
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24 | ★★ Roof crack project - with Ben Vincent | 15m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 21st Jul 2018 | |||
Wow! The chossy start is a little off-putting but this thing is great quality after that. The traverse is good, the roof crack is great, pulling the lip is an utterly sick move getting almost inverted, and the sustained offwidth after that is just plain sickening I laybacked most of the offwidth cause that's how I roll, but it burnt me out, when I finally dragged my arse over top I wanted to chuck. Rope drag was bad, needs lots of long slings.
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23 | ★★★ Lean Cuisine - with Benji Dutaillis | 7m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | |||
I'd forgotten how good this route is, perfect rock, big dyno move (couldn't make it) or alternate left sequence
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21 | ★★ Wired World of Sport - with Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 10m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | ||||
Really dogged this and had to aid to the last bolt. Surely something has ripped off, the start is great but then getting to the sloper ledge is either a big dyno, or a massive ape span, or off super minging sharp crimps. Second bolt isn't in the best position.
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24 | ★★ New Blue Dress - with Benji Dutaillis, Todd Free | 10m, 2 | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||
Had a dangle on top rope, always feels crazy hard and takes a few goes to re-figure out the sequence
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24 | ★★ Heaving Falcons - with Benji Dutaillis, Ben Vincent | 15m, 2 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Jan 2022 | |||
Arvo mission mostly doing support. Bloody hot so mostly hunkered in the shade until dusk when I wasn't belaying. Yoyo lead the first section ok but a bit flash pumped. Traverse wore me down, and the roof just felt totally impossible. Jumared out and then ruined myself hauling gear and belaying Ben up on horrendous drag
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19 | ★ Going Steady | 15m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
17 | Eeor's Tail | 12m, 1 | Coffs Harbour | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
21 | ★ Poetic Justice | 10m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
23 | ★★ Chocolate Barbarian | 15m, 1 | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
18 | ★★ Layabout/Going Steady Connection | 18m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
21 | ★ Don't Get Cute | 18m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
21 | ★★ Pork Orgy - with Ben Vincent, Iliane Beuke, Richard Curtis, Alan Ezzy, Amy O'Toole, carol lee | 15m, 1 | Kaputar | Sat 11th Jun 2016 | ||||
15 | ★ Swinebeater | 10m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | 2005 | ||||
17 | Blow by Blow - with Liam Jackson | 18m, 1 | Frog Buttress | Sat 19th May 2007 | ||||
14 | ★★ Zip wire - with Andrew Woolley, Georgie, Callum, Simon Porter | 5m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | Sat 5th Nov 2022 | ||||
19 | Larry The Leisurely Lounge Lizard | 15m, 1 | Coffs Harbour | Sat 6th Jan 2007 | ||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong - with Ben Vincent | 25m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | |||
At this stage I believed I'd lost my camera on either Lamplighter or bouldering somewhere, and either way we didn't have an extra photographer so we weren't really expecting to come away with the clichéd money shot. So when we hooked up with Jose, William and Winnie it worked out awesomely, thanks a ton to William for the shots. As Ben started up it started raining, he was moving fast and only put gear in at the roof. I had thought I'd be cleaning it, but I ended up placing more gear on second so the others could lead on that after me. New tick type?? The whole route is great not just the roof - and despite the glory jug at the lip being a puddle which just made it more memorable!
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17 | ★★★ Little Red Riding Hood - with Ben Vincent | 25m, 1 | Point Perpendicular | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||
Very cruisy fun with a nice finish
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14 | ★★ Zip wire | 5m, 1 | Upper Gara Gorge | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | ||||
Really cool rock features
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14 | ★ Deep Water - with Ben Vincent, Iliane Beuke, Richard Curtis, Alan Ezzy, Amy O'Toole, carol lee | 15m | Kaputar | Sat 11th Jun 2016 | ||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy | 80m | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 12th Jun 2016 | |||
I lead 2nd pitch, scary looking collapsed column to climb through
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14 | ★★★ Lamplighter - with Ben Vincent | 78m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Aug 2019 | |||
I'd been slightly off ever since I left home, felt worse this morning and you know it's bad when a grade 10 knocks you around
Second pitch was great though as soon as I got warmed up, and the chimney finish was right up my alley, weird semi-caving stuff |
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21 | ★★ Chewin Fat With The Paleo Brat - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 20m | Ebor Gorge | Fri 28th Jun 2019 | ||||
Gave Ben a catch on this. Jeez this is nail biting even as the belayer, marginal gear, technical, loose in parts. Ben fought it valiantly for maybe 45 mins and then unzipped from the top then we bailed.
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22 | ★★ Inertia | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | ||||
I've been on this a couple times on top rope and lead but I don't think it was prior to the route changing. I have a feeling there is two distinct routes, the original where the bolts are and the obvious crack a few meters left
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22 | ★★ Inertia - with Volodymyr K, Michael Moore, Laura Price, Bryn Norris | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Apr 2022 | |||
First time I've been on the 'real' inertia, always been confused by the bolts. This route is quality. Take care to extend gear over the sharper lips to save your rope. Was lightly raining, the cross through move at the lip shut me down and was a bit rushed to spend time working it.
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16 | ★★ Hope | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 11th Jul 1998 | |||
13 | ★★★ Snakeskin Flake | 70m | Moonbi slabs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 29th Apr 2007 | |||
15 | ★ And So It Goes | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
14 | ★★ Action - with Gretta Axelsen | 150m | Dangars Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th May 2006 | |||
Sam tooks photos, on flickr
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15 | ★ Seizure | 14m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
17 | ★ The Joker | 12m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
8 | Pink Freud | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
13 | ★ Illusion | 15m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
14 | ★★ Charity | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
16 | ★★ Reunion Alternate Finish | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
3 | ★ Epileptic Chimney | 10m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
22 | ★★ Fury | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
14 | Interlude | 10m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
15 | ★★ All the Young Punks | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
6 | ★ Staircase Chimney | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
14 | Layabout Variant | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
14 | Jail Bait | 30m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
17 | ★★ Submission | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
13 | ★ Shooting Star | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
18 | ★ Anticipation | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
13 | ★ Snakes and Ladders | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
12 | ★ Expiry Date | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
15 | ★ The Removalist | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
20 | ★★ Bombay Duck | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 28th May 2006 |