Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Trad | ||||||||
15 | ★ Bicameral desires - with Ben Vincent | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 1st Aug 2018 | |||
We both rapped of in different directions seeing what else was around. Couldn't leave this nice little hand and fist crack undone. We hadn't planned on climbing anything so the only pro we had was a single blue cam - a second cam would have been great. Clipped the jumar on the rap line as a workaround
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11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with Ben Vincent | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Aug 2019 | |||
I lead this as a single pitch. Super fun. The start was a little weepy, and there was a light drizzle as I topped out. When we rapped off the brand new doubles, we had some pretty kinky tails to unwind.
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16 | Bunny Blowjob - with Ben Vincent | 3m | Arapiles | Mon 12th Aug 2019 | ||||
12 |
★★★ Bard
- with
Ben Vincent
| 120m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 13th Aug 2019 | |||
Another super fun classic. I linked 3 & 4 together. Met a school group at the top. First experience of going down the chains which was a little hair raising. Back at car at 3:30
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13 | ★★ Horn Piece - with Ben Vincent | 33m | Arapiles | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Aug 2019 | |||
Great little route to access the Tannin ledge. While setting up for Tannin and eating some food my helmet took a small tumble which then escalated and fell all the way to the ground. It didn't seem to noticed.
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15 |
★★★ Resignation
- with
Ben Vincent
| 96m | Arapiles | ★★★ Classic | Fri 16th Aug 2019 | |||
A great wind down after all the hype of Kachoong. Relaxed arvo climb watching the birds of prey, and the moon rise on dusk and just soaking it up and avoiding thinking that we'll need to go home soon.
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16 | ★★ Chicken Wing to Bomb Town - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Sep 2020 | |||
We'd eye this off while bouldering underneath it so didn't have a great sense of scale and thought it would be mostly offwidth and I was keen due to my hand still not being ready for crimping. It ended up climbing quite nicely, it felt like a small segment of a much larger multi pitch
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16 | ★★ Frog in a Blender | 7m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||
Done this way back in the mists of time, very likely a couple times
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17 | ★★★ Stonka Truck - with Simon Porter | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
Super fun, stoked to onsight the FA thinking this would be baggy fists but its solid hands almost all the way
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18 | ★★ Death roof - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Feb 2022 | |||
This cleaned up fairly nicely into a pure crack problem without the features to the left which we thought would be needed. Could be a couple variants. All over in 2-3 moves but still good fun. Still not sure I'd want to solo boulder it.
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18 | ★★ Moving Targets - with Ben Vincent | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Jan 2023 | |||
Based on the dust and cobwebs this probably doesn't see much traffic but it's pretty neat. If we hadn't left some gear at the bottom we would have been done for the day but it was a really great little one to finish up with. Nice to have some jams for a change and switch up the muscle groups.
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22 | ★★ Morning Glory - with carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | |||
The first third is horribly hollow and loose for gear but otherwise climbs well. Topped out on the ledge. Didn’t do the crack which needs a good clean. Not inspired to lead it
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15 | ★ The Removalist - with Alan Ezzy | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 5th Sep 2015 | |||
Cruisy lead, loose block scared the hell out of me even though I knew it was there
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18 | ★★ Knuckleduster - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 6th May 2017 | |||
Great little climb until the end and then a gross dirty scramble to the top. Crack gloves felt perfect
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18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner - with Ben Vincent, Nathan | 25m | Frog Buttress | ★★★ Classic | Sat 24th Jun 2017 | |||
Pretty sure I've done this yonks ago, brilliant sustained jams and very happy to do it clean. Somehow managed to completely munt a rigid stem friend about half way up, it's now a permanent feature All three of us had a go at retrieving it.
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17 | ★★ Fear and Loathing - with Alan Ezzy | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | |||
Not sure if I've done this before but this route is great
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17 | ★★ Layabout - with Vaschka Koboroff, Scott Camps | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 16th Jun 2019 | ||||
17 | ★★ Fear and Loathing - with Benji Dutaillis | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||
Really nice and naturally clean
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16 | ★★ Twist - with Todd Free | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | |||
Had a brief mini tantrum after discovering my harness was ... not present. Textbook hand jams, a delightful warmup.
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18 | ★★ Foreplay - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | Upper Gara Gorge | Thu 13th Aug 2020 | ||||
Benji and Ben went earlier and I knocked off mid arvo and trundled up stylishly late. They'd had a solid session and Ben had already cracked the crux which is just sick. Benji had a go at leading up the first slab and roof crack pitch. Apparently they'd had an epic cleaning session and it showed. After Benji retreated I had a go and "flashed" it. The caveat is I had been on this on our very first session here but I had retreated from the sea of choss, loose dinner plates, and since trundled death boulders.
Benji reckons its a legit flash because it's genuinely so different. It actually climbs well with a fun left hip stretching move through the bulge. Apparently there is a cave I need to explore in there which I completely missed. |
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16 | ★★ Hope - with Todd Free, Denni Heywood, Mark, Alex, Peter, Jonas, a ton of kids | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jun 2023 | |||
17 18 | ★★ Raspberry Jam and Crackers - with sgodwin, laura | 25m | Mount Wellington | Sun 22nd Jun 2014 | ||||
Quick run up after scotty
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18 | ★★ Gladiator - with Ben Vincent | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Jun 2017 | |||
18 | ★★ Fingers - with carol lee | 8m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | |||
I loved this route, naturally clean fist crack to perfect hands and just a bit of finger spice a the end. And a perfect clean topout. Led on Alan's gear but moved the gear around at the crux as it was in the way
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17 | ★★ Your Anger Is A Gift - with Ben Vincent | 10m | Beulah | ★ Good | Sat 1st Aug 2020 | |||
Ben led this and we thought it was an FA. I pink pointed and my sequence was very different, I had a solid knee bar in from the first move (of course I did) and I felt very secure dragging that back step up the whole way until you can stand for the easy vertical crack part
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18 | ★★ Fingers - with Benji Dutaillis, Todd Free | 8m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Apr 2021 | |||
Led it with a sag a meter from the top. Clean second go
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19 | ★★★ Rooflet - with Benji Dutaillis, Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | |||
Felt a bit anxious but went down. Did a little pop at the crux but caught it and kept going
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18 | ★★ Fist dunce - with Volodymyr K, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | |||
Such a nice consistent climb
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20 | ★★ Mad Woman's Breakfast - with Benji Dutaillis | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Feb 2022 | |||
A sneaky 3 hour gorge trip before school pickup. Slowly chipped away over ~5 attempts. Benji worked it and sent it quite smoothly. I butchered it, did the crux and then fell off and got rope burn on my elbow. Next go I sent it despite butchering it even more. I didn't have a single solid jam just pure desperate levitation grovel. Grade is definitely harder than Savage Amusement (supposedly 22), Prime Cut 20, Luce 21. It's not 23, but I think 22 isn't unreasonable. Feels maybe on par with Pub Grubs at 3rd breakaway.
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14 | ★★ Charity - with Michael Moore, Clive | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 10th Apr 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★ Hope - with Michael Moore, Clive | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 10th Apr 2022 | |||
18 | ★ Anticipation - with Michael Moore, Clive | 20m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 10th Apr 2022 | ||||
Broke in the new purple
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15 | ★ Birchill's bomber - with Benji Dutaillis, Michael Moore | Mt Yarrowyck | ★ Good | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | ||||
Pretty cruisy, crack is a little gravelly
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22 | ★★★ Killip's Killer - with Benji Dutaillis, Michael Moore | 15m | Mt Yarrowyck | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | |||
Real cool little line. Was expecting a fight but flashed it and felt solid all the way
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21 Easy | ★★ Lattanzio's Lurch - with Benji Dutaillis, Michael Moore | 12m | Mt Yarrowyck | ★★ Very Good | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | |||
A mix of slab and jams from tips to fists, nice finish to glory jug
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20 ~20 | ★★★ Possum Magic - with Michael Moore, Volodymyr K, carol lee, Simon Porter | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||
Second go did it almost pure layback and much easier. A couple jams at the roof to rest, burned through the second layback section and got a no hands rest in the possum hole. Such a nice route
|
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15 | ★★ Get Nuked - with Michael Moore, Simon Porter | 7m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | |||
Lovely rock, perfect first lead for Simon. If only this went for 5 pitches
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16 | ★★ Frog in a Blender - with Michael Moore, Simon Porter | 7m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Aug 2022 | |||
Short and lovely. As we were packing up my new downie blew into the water and Simon was a champ and went for a brisk swim. Walk out was hard, slow, cramped up a lot
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23 | ★★★ Green Jam - with Michael Moore, Todd Free | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Aug 2022 | |||
YUS! 3 goes, first was typical flash pump first route of the day. Second was a pretty close one hang. Three is a charm! It is still winter but the sundeck was cooking
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20 ~20 | ★★★ Possum Magic - with Benji Dutaillis, Ben Vincent, Alec Eastwood | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Nov 2022 | |||
16 | ★★ Sunshine in a dress - with Simon Porter | 12m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
Flowey
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16 | ★★ Stonkey Kong - with Simon Porter | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
Great route with interesting crux, the top section needs more cleaning and wigged me out and I finished up to the right instead
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18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th May 2012 | |||
Nice but my stamina is woeful
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19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice - with sgodwin | 30m | Frog Buttress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Sep 2012 | |||
18 18 - 20 | ★ Unknown 1 - with Chris L | 35m | Fortescue Bay | ★ Good | Sun 12th Apr 2015 | |||
Was going to second Adam up the tote but bailed with high wind and rain. Eventually jumped on this.
A little gritty, did the right crack start, chicken wings in big crack, crux hand crack I found pretty hard with cold fingers, spat off a footer close to the top. Rock is ok unlike the thing Chris L did to the right. |
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17 | ★ Sunny Gym - with Chris L | 10m | Fortescue Bay | Sun 12th Apr 2015 | ||||
Got there on dusk optimistic about how much time we had. Chris L rocked it, I wasn't feeling the love, cold numb climbing with my pack on flailing badly in the dark.
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16 | ★★ Twist - with Ben Vincent, Richard Curtis, Alex, Carol, Iliane Beuke, Narelle | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 26th Jul 2015 | ||||
Thrutching. Cracks! It's been a while
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22 | ★★ Ben project - with Ben Vincent | 20m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2015 | |||
Rapped off and scrubbed the top, not realising how overhung it was so didn't clean the bottom as much as I could have. Benny scrubbed the right line. Did the first half clean on second and then was pumped silly.
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22 | ★★ Ben project - with Ben Vincent | 20m | Eastern Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2015 | |||
Second run, had to clean it and the bottom 4 wires needed a lot of tickling to get out. Rooted.
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17 | ★★ Fidget - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 6th May 2017 | |||
Warmup, my jams are super rusty
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20 | ★★ Brown Buffalo - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 6th May 2017 | |||
Start shut me down, my hand jams are solid but this was thinner and fingers / cups aren't solid at all. After Ben fought his way up I aided up as the sun set
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18 | ★ Aeroplane Jelly - with carol lee | 20m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 9th Jul 2017 | |||
One rest at crux
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22 | ★★★ Pub Grubs And Bloody Greenies - with carol lee | 20m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Jul 2017 | |||
carol lee had a few cracks at this but was defeated by the wet spooge gushing out of the first meter of the crack. Jumped on and was pretty happy to power through this and up to half way to the last good stance before the hand crack widens to not-quite-fists and then I regressed into the worse pumped out dogging / aiding / grunting. Finally got to the head wall and then went right for a subterranean burrow (after being warned by Ben Vincent not to go this way)
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18 | ★★ Fingers - with Alan Ezzy, James | 8m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Jul 2017 | |||
This had Alan's gear and a top rope still on, so after a bit of creative fishing to reach down to the rope I rapped off and did a lap. Sat on the rope to get the crux nut out.
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17 | ★ Rubber Ball - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 4th Jun 2018 | |||
Not sure why I chose an offwidth fist crack as a warm up, totally shut down as the crack widened
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21 | ★★ Tough Customer - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Jun 2018 | |||
Looks like good hands but thinner once you get on it, good finger workout
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19 | ★★ Blitzkrieg Bop - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | Mon 4th Jun 2018 | ||||
At another time this experience should have left me despondent, but somehow after humping and aiding the crap out of a vegetated offwidth crack full of lomandra I got to the top happy. Closer to type 1 fun than type 2 fun.
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23 | ★★ Masquerade - with Ben Vincent | 20m | Mt Yarrowyck | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Jun 2019 | |||
So I jumped on this thinking it was Go-pher guts, because I thought the other crack further left was Masquerade which turns out to be an unclimbed crack.
Totally spanked me, this is my second day on rock since the A2. Lots of dogging / aid and then finished up 'Go-Pher guts'. It's a great route |
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21 | ★★★ Gourmet - with Ben Vincent | 17m | Mt Yarrowyck | ★★★ Classic | Fri 7th Jun 2019 | |||
The starting moves on this are ace, the whole route is wicked. Popped off on the last hard move out left before the top, with beta finished it easily
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18 | ★ Aeroplane Jelly - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 20m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 28th Jun 2019 | |||
Usual story, flash pump and then had a rest, then clean to top after I was warm
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20 | ★★ Prime Cut - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 20m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Jun 2019 | |||
Lead this on Carol's gear. Super happy with everything, did basically the whole climb and then just slumped at literally the last hold.
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21 | ★★★ Luce - with Ben Vincent, carol lee | 20m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 28th Jun 2019 | |||
This thing is amazing. Fell on the low crux, figured out the sequence and it was great. Perfect jamming and good rests all the way to the top. And then it turns into a complete grovel after the roof
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21 | ★ Thick as Thieves | 15m | Upper Gara Gorge | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | ||||
I do remember leading this super early on but I think I got stopped right at the lip
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19 | ★★★ Sleight of Hand - with Ben Vincent, Volodymyr K | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | |||
After Volo and Soph, and then Ben, I too had to get a taste of climbing while being intermittently hosed when the wind diverted the adjacent waterfall onto the route. Refreshing! I won't say I dogged it, more like an eel. The route is great and keen to repeat when dry.
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16 | ★★ Crooked Vision - with Volodymyr K | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Aug 2021 | |||
Had a crack at the direct start, really fingery layback. The gear was in the way. This time actually finished it up the fun original route which has bomber knee jams to the pillar.
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25 | ★★ The Plumbers Crack - with Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis, carol lee, Michael Moore | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Oct 2021 | |||
Surprisingly possible. Minging crimpy start and then its mostly ok in crack, then crux topout. On my last go my high point was the last pinch jam. I did the top from the good crimp way out left at the top but I think its too far and I can do it just with the nipple crystal instead. Ben was super close
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20 | ★★ Mad Woman's Breakfast - with Michael Moore | 10m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | |||
Naively was psyching myself up for an onsight, totally shut down. Had maybe half a dozen goes, high point was left cup after the constriction, high right fist after that
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20 | ★★ Bootleg - with Michael Moore | 15m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 29th Apr 2022 | |||
Steeper than it looks, no jambs just laybacking. Flash pumped and hung, but once you figure out the sweet spots the crux is over way too soon. I got onto the top of the roof after some gardening and there is a big dead tree before you can get to savage amusement. SA needs some big cleanup to finish. Ended up back climbing and I think I did it in better style than the ascent
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23 | ★★★ Green Jam - with Michael Moore, Volodymyr K | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Jun 2022 | |||
Got to about 2/3 and pumped out. Finished with 3 hangs. All the moves are there but it is deceptively steep. A truly superb route and its crazy that routes were done either side decades ago and this gem was just left untouched
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23 | ★★★ Green Jam - with Michael Moore, Volodymyr K, carol lee, Simon Porter | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | |||
Slightly higher high point that last time, much cleaner sequence with less faffing. Sagged at the fist crack. Powered through the rest with a little scream, much easier than trying to be slow and steady. Classic!
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23 | ★★★ Under the Bridge - with Simon Porter | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Feb 2023 | |||
26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - with carol lee, Michael Moore, Matt | 30m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | |||
The new gear beta is great walking or unclipping behind you, leaving just 2 reds at the first lip and two yellows at the second. Fell at crux again, the jams are fine I just need much more weetbix and more stamina.
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16 | ★★ Crooked Vision - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 6th May 2017 | |||
Didn't really pay attention to the description and just launched ourselves at this and got shut down but it's tantalizingly doable. Realized the route bridges up the right offwidth first, but the direct start is definitely doable. Another day!
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19 | ★★ Anxiety Attack - with carol lee | 20m | Ebor Gorge | Sun 9th Jul 2017 | ||||
We decided we had one more in us if we were fast and this looked good on paper. It turned out to be 1/3 vegetated. carol lee led with a few falls while I slowly froze after sunset getting showered in multiple flurries of dirt and farmers friends. I declined to second.
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20 | ★★ Bootleg | 15m | Upper Gara Gorge | Wed 30th Dec 2020 | ||||
I do remember leading this possibly in the uni days and not getting up it
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19 | ★★ Crack left of fig - with Ben Vincent | 10m | Beulah | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Apr 2021 | |||
Keen to tick this off but took an unexpected fall after the second piece, somehow nipping the tip of my 'flexible stem' and had to sit down for a few minutes. This might have also been when the mystery rope burn in my arm pit also happened that I found a day later.
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★ Roof project - with Benji Dutaillis, Volodymyr K | 12m | Ebor Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 18th Dec 2021 | ||||
Very bouldery start under the roof. Impossible blankness up the pillar. Did the balancy arete move onto the slab. Didn't do the last 2m but it seems doable, might be a dyno
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22 | ★★★ Stairway to Heaven - with Benji Dutaillis, Michael Moore | 21m | Mt Yarrowyck | ★★★ Classic | Fri 24th Jun 2022 | |||
Rapped off to film Michael, had to bail before I had a go
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20 ~20 | ★★★ Possum Magic - with Michael Moore, Volodymyr K, carol lee, Simon Porter | 13m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | ||||
First go, jammed it all up to the little rooflet which was super pumpy, came down after second rest
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27 | ★★★ Chicks Dig Scars - with Michael Moore | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sat 16th Jul 2022 | ||||
Rapped into to take some pics and got a nice vid of Michael taking a whipper when a piece popped. Done a lot of jugging today, way more than the I've climbed
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27 | ★★★ Chicks Dig Scars - with Michael Moore | 25m | Upper Gara Gorge | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | ||||
'Attempt' is being polite. I flailed on this hard. I've given Michael so many catches it was overdue I had a play. The first half is nice and easy but not trivial. Maybe grade 18 and I've often wondered about it being a route in its own right as the two sections are so different in style and grade. At the roof the doom music kicks in and its just ... hard. I may have done about 4 actual moves total on the head wall between sags
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26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - with Ben Vincent | 30m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 18th Feb 2024 | |||
Whoa! Epic, daunting, steep, tantalizing, humbling
Lead to first roof and then shut down |
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waterfall crack project (crack project) - with Ben Vincent | 15m | Upper Gara Gorge | Fri 6th Jul 2018 | |||||
Comic assault in the drizzle, everything was completely wet and yet we kept at it. Every time I come back here I'm surprised how steep it is
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25 | ★★ The Plumbers Crack - with Ben Vincent | 8m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 29th Jan 2023 | |||
Reacquainting with all the beta. Felt nails again pulling on, crimps are sharp and none of the jams are really great. Did more or less most of the moves in three sections: off the ground to thin moves to get into the layerback, trick is to hop and swap feet and then chill out a little. For the bulge the sequence which worked well for me was avoid the Salmon tickle that Ben was doing, right hand on the okish slightly downward jam, then left hand ring finger hook into the little meat grinder and pull right through so right falls into the side pull, then feels pretty good out left to crimp the crystal then, right high step and slap the right hand up a few times and profit. Ended up right my right hand under the top rope anchor for an unfun knuckle grate
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26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - with Michael Moore | 30m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 29th Feb 2024 | |||
Didn't pull on, just cleaning and belaying. Found a perfect photo ledge level with the main roof with the water fall in the background
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26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - with Michael Moore | 30m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Mar 2024 | |||
Two goes on top rope and made a lot of progress. This feels very doable now compared to last time. The first roof is not too bad after all, pinch abd layback instead of jam. Second roof is perfect hands for me, the lip is just a constant grunt fest and is more of a stamina thing than pure technical difficulty. Head wall is just more constant fight and thins out and I think you’d want to just punch through it quickly up to the rest before the third little roof. Final section was surprisingly easy and flows nicely. Strained my shoulder / bicep somewhere on the first go and should have taken it easy and cooked it a bit on the second go
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26 | ★★★ Kiss Me Deadly - with Michael Moore | 30m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | |||
Top rope burn, shoulder felt great after I tweaked it a couple weeks ago here. Got to the crux clean feeling fairly solid, had a tussle with the rope stuck in the crack where I needed to be. Worked it all and did get the crux moves, but it feels like the crux isn't actually the crux and it's the thinner hands on the headwall which are doable when fresh but brutally sustained after the lip which is the extended crux. The top boulder problem I got first go last time and made a mess of it this time cause I was super cooked.
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19 | ★★ Electra - with Ben Vincent | 40m | Arapiles | Mon 12th Aug 2019 | ||||
Ben lead, fell at the offwidth constriction on pitch one, probably where the original aid point was on the FA. Decent inverted fall. In a way was nice to be shut down a little on day 1 and gain some healthy respect for the place.
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★★ alternate end - with Volodymyr K, Simon Porter | Upper Gara Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 18th Nov 2023 | |||||
Good go, got to end of traverse and popped and my shoulder wasn't happy so rested it the rest of the day
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19 | ★★ Eagle Nebular - with Volodymyr K, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | Ebor Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Jan 2022 | |||
Self belayed
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16 8 | ★★ Route from Wedding Cake to Cape - with Chris L | 300m | Cape Raoul | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Jan 2015 | |||
The Stegosaurus pitch is great exposed fun
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Top rope | ||||||||
19 | ★★ Wabble (UNKNOWN - Climb Between Torpid and Pork Orgy) - with Ben Vincent, Iliane Beuke, Richard Curtis, Alan Ezzy, Amy O'Toole, carol lee | 15m | Kaputar | Sat 11th Jun 2016 | ||||
22 | ★★ Unknown Arete - with Chris L | 12m | North West Bay River | ★ Good | Sun 17th Aug 2014 | |||
Top roped to the right clean and then did a another lap to clean the arete. Nice route that deserves a few bolts
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24 24 to 27 | ★★★ Summer waterfall project - with Ben Vincent, Alan Ezzy, Phil | 9m | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Dec 2017 | |||
Utterly frothing on this, I cannot understand how such an obvious and high quality line has been unsent all these years. The more I scrubbed the more froth was exposed. Thought it would go fairly easy but it's put up quite a fight. Each move gets progressively harder. Great holds, nothing is tweaky or sharp. I did find some tat at the base so I don't think we were the first to try it but I doubt it's been sent. Probably a dozen attempts, able to get to the face rail and juiceless for the dyno. The right finish is a hard mantle, the left finish ads a few great moves and looks more doable.
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18 | ★ Trip wire | 6m | Upper Gara Gorge | Thu 1st Sep 2022 | ||||
Surprisingly balancy slab moves
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17 | ★★ Mad Hatter - with Liam Jackson | 20m, 12 | Nowra | Sat 16th Sep 2006 | ||||
16 | ★★ Whimsical Ways - with Ben Vincent, Iliane Beuke | 31m, 12 | Kaputar | ★★ Very Good | Sun 10th Jun 2018 | |||
Everyone else said this was a bit loose and had broken things off, but by the time I got on it was all chalked up and everything I touched was fine. More traffic can only improve it.
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23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - with Todd Free, Simon Porter, Michael Moore, Benji Dutaillis | 20m, 12 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Apr 2023 | |||
Fairly cruisy, maybe 19 until the crux kicks in on the second face
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23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - with Michael Moore, Denni Heywood, Nora | 20m, 12 | Upper Gara Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th May 2023 | |||
Got another couple moves into the crux than last time, got high foot on the little chip but couldn't balance on it to straighten up. Feels like its only 2 moves away but I found it nails. Did the slopey foot traverse out of the crux.
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23 | ★★★ The Fuckwit And The Protégé - with Michael Moore | 20m, 12 | Upper Gara Gorge | Fri 12th May 2023 | ||||
Not quite sure how to log this I wish there was just a 'note' non-ascent ascent type. I rapped down this, gave Michael a catch on chicks, then jugged up and was intending to lead this later. Barely 3-4m up I saw a fluff on my rope above, as I got to it I saw core. It's totally shot with 2cm of unsheathed core and bends completely 180. Brand new birthday rope used only a handful of times, and cut almost exactly at the half way mark. Gutted, did not climb at all. Still not clear exactly what cut it and when.
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