Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 1st May 2024 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Kalmit Vandalen-Block | ||||||
7B ~7A | ★★ The Cult - with valldryzen | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Much nicer than it looks - also much easier than its neighbors, at least for me..
|
||||||
Sat 10th Feb 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Sarkıt | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Poker Face - with valldryzen | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice and technical until the crux comes at the very end. Harder for shorter people.
|
||||||
7a+ | ★★ Zalia - with valldryzen | 21m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Somehow this route played with my mental game so much I stopped before the second last draw - looks beautiful, but definitely a powerful climb.
|
||||||
6b+ Hard | ★★ Bizon - with valldryzen | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Maybe it was my (missing) technique but this line felt much harder compared to Lu on the left (same grade) and Caf Caf on the right (graded 6c)xD
Beautiful tufas though!
|
||||||
Thu 8th Feb 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Sarkıt | ||||||
7a Easy | ★★ Big Blind — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 24m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice with a distict crux just after the start. Worked once I found the mono^^
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Caf Caf — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good once you know which of the many holds you want to use difficulty in lower part
|
||||||
Wed 7th Feb 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Anatolia | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Seek and Destroy — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 29m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Must do in this sector! First third with delicate technical climbing on small holds and feet. Then a third to recover a bit on good pockets. Final third starts with a little tufa crux and ends in a pumpy finish.
|
||||||
Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Küllüin Küllüin 2 | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Efe Cemal — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great line with easy meters until the roof (in which you can get lost xD) - powerful exit into a big hole. Toehooks and kneebars enabled the send for me
|
||||||
7a+ | ★★ Geyikbayırı Gençelik — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy climbing on good pockets until a distinct crux in the steep - harde for people shorter than 160 I'd think.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Anatolia | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Sado Mazo - with valldryzen | 40m, 19 | Average | |||
6a | ★★ No Name - with valldryzen | 24m, 12 | Average | |||
Not easy for the grade?
|
||||||
6c+ | ★★ Mezarlarınıza Tüküreceğim — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 32m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sharp finger pockety start on grey stone followed by a rest cave. Then continues on orange cauliflower stone with good pockets until a boulder crux, before finishing with great views over the valley.
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Mağara | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Amele - with valldryzen | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Couldn't become friends, balancy lower part and then the opposite in the upper (big moves on good holds in the very steep)
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Nirvana — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Jugs, pockets and tufas all the way - crux at last bolt I'd say..
|
||||||
7a | ★★★ Karinca - with valldryzen | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Very happy to send this classic!
|
||||||
Thu 1st Feb 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Mağara | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Karinca — 3 attempts - with valldryzen | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy start on big holes, delicate and balance until the cave (good rest!), then tufa hauling all the way up to a rescuing flake before the top. One rest just before the last meters - will come back I guess..
|
||||||
7a | ★★ Ağustos Böceği - with valldryzen | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
Wed 31st Jan 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Sarkıt | ||||||
6c | ★ Gladutschki - with valldryzen | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Flowy second go
|
||||||
7a |
★★ Imagination
- with
valldryzen
1
6b+
20m
Somehow didn't find into the line
2
7a
15m
| 35m, 11 | Average | |||
7b |
★ Drama Queen
- with
valldryzen
1
5c
18m
2
7b
20m
| 38m | Average | |||
Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Sarkıt | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Back on Funky Planet - with valldryzen | 38m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not fit enough for these nice tufas xD
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ Lu — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sooooo good! Bridging really was the beta for me.
|
||||||
6c | ★ Gladutschki - with valldryzen | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two cruxes in the upper part, a little run out just there xD
|
||||||
6a | ★ Süt Çocuğu - with valldryzen | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice and easy until the very last bit
|
||||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Geyikbayırı | ||||||
Çeşme | ||||||
6b+ ~6b | ★★ Love and Hate - with valldryzen | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6a ~6a+ | ★ Kaktüs - with valldryzen | 24m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★★★ Klakson — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 23m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Know your beta to get over the bulge
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Kalte Wand | ||||||
6+ | ★ Black Ice - with valldryzen | 10m, 3 | ||||
7 | ★ Stracciatella — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Weidener Wand | ||||||
8 Easy | ★★ Frau Kules — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Boulder crux in the middle section, good rests before and after. Very enjoyable pocketed climbing to the anchor.
|
||||||
8 | ★★ Gilgamesch — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What an entry boulder: one long move up and then a funky crossover move using a two finger pocket, gotta have that one figured out to get to a good juggy rest before some nice pocketed wall climbing until a great flake for the right, before the final crux begins. I found a two finger undercling pocket for the right to move to a left sidepull before going over the bulge using whatever;D nice line!
|
||||||
7- | ★ Wer im Glashaus sitzt... - with valldryzen | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good warm up, but I missed something just before the anchor xD
|
||||||
Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Blechfass | ||||||
8/8+ Hard | ★★ Steinschleuder - with valldryzen | 22m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I said I'd return for this one and here I am, five years later, it went third go
The entry boulder felt hard when first trying but then the moves got smoother, ironically the easier flake part felt harder (maybe a little polished?) than 5 years ago, but then the tricky technical part went easy as soon as I got my beta figured out. Without the good rest on underclings just before the steep finale I would have been lost, but this way pump control was possible ^^
Super happy this honest 8 went down today - my first in frankenjura.
|
||||||
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Martinswand | ||||||
7+ ~8- | ★★ Flotter Dreier - with valldryzen | 18m | Average | |||
Felt really hard
|
||||||
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Emporwand | ||||||
7 | ★★ Jericho - with valldryzen | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really nice flowy line if you know where to go - and if some extra slings reduce the falling meters
|
||||||
7 | ★★ Silberner Oskar - with valldryzen | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The hardest bit is til the second bolt, you get a no hander on the ledge before a nice finish.
|
||||||
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Mader Gedenkwand | ||||||
7 | ★ Metas Welt - with valldryzen | 14m | Average | |||
Easier lower part with the crux just before the anchor
|
||||||
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Rupertuswand | ||||||
8- | ★★ Perle der Natur - with valldryzen | 21m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really beautiful! Crimpy and technical in the lower part, then a no hands rest on the ledge before an awesome pocket finish!
|
||||||
7 | ★★ Tiefblick - with valldryzen | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice, easier in lower part, gets smaller in the upper half
|
||||||
6+ | ★ In naher Zukunft - with valldryzen | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Balance to go to the left on small holds, then nice
|
||||||
6+/7- | Kombizange - with valldryzen | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Bouldery to go to the second draw, then nice on pockets
|
||||||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Nideggen | ||||||
Hinkelsteine 3. Hinkelstein | ||||||
8- | ★★ Himmelsleiter | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful and sustained. Tricky in the lower bit.
|
||||||
7+ Hard | ★★★ Asterix | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Enjoyable line, technical and not pumpy. 7+/8- I guess after the good sidepull flake broke.
|
||||||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Nideggen | ||||||
Hinkelsteine 4. Hinkelstein | ||||||
5+ | ★ Grappa | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cool flakes if you stay to the left of the 6+, slightly weird upper part but very doable.
|
||||||
6+ | ★★ Trimmi | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8 | ★★ Dampfbügeleisen — 3 attempts | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did a different entry into the route, loved it! Really, nice route with a crux in the upper middle part. Fun!
|
||||||
Thu 18th May 2023 - Nideggen | ||||||
Effels Effelsley | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Sprossenwand — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Superb line, again a boulder in the start, followed by a slab, finishes with a crack in steeper terrain
|
||||||
6 | ★★ S.A.M - with valldryzen | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7- | ★★ Rammler — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super nice, boulder in the beginning
|
||||||
Mon 1st May 2023 - Bergisches Land | ||||||
Bochumer Bruch Drei Zinnen | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Kurssturz — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
First tried to onsight it, got scared in the upper part - then climbed it right away on TR o.O
|
||||||
6+ | ★★ Südwandrisse - with valldryzen | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
My mental lead limit atm, found an awesome knee bar midway!
|
||||||
7 | ★★ Tunnel Blick - with valldryzen | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Weird start, unsure how much to the right you should go, then a nice crack system- way to run out to lead it myself though.
|
||||||
8- | ★★ Laokoon - with valldryzen | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Must have been really beautiful when it was not polished, still good moves on small holds
|
||||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Coltura | ||||||
Strada | ||||||
6a | ★★ La Popa che Pipa - with valldryzen | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Short with the hardest bit in the beginning. To the top easier if you keep right in the corner of the crack.
|
||||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Coltura | ||||||
La Cengia | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Unnamed 1 - with valldryzen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy until the very end, tricky sidepull section just before the anchor.
|
||||||
6b | ★★★ Regina della notte - with valldryzen | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Long climb on good holds, happy with the insight since the quickdraws were more spaced than the days before ^^
|
||||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
6b | ★★ La Scala - with valldryzen | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good one to start with, although not super easy in the middle part.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★ La signora e l’unicorno - with valldryzen | 18m, 10 | Average | |||
Nice and flowy until the middle section where I didn't really get the crux. Head game was not good for that part I guess..
|
||||||
6c | ★★★ Pluta — 2 attempts - with valldryzen | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great line in pockets - smaller and more technical in the lower part, bigger and more spaced in steeper terrain in the upper part.
|
||||||
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Marinomania - with valldryzen | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got through first route of the day while hanging in the draws
|
||||||
6c+ | ★★ Vengo dalla Luna — 3 attempts - with valldryzen | 18m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Boulder crux in the lower part, followed by easier climbing - I liked it!
|
||||||
Tue 4th Apr 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Marinomania - with valldryzen | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Nicer than its left neighbor, less sharp.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Azizza - with valldryzen | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Painful holes I'd say, but nice. Easier in the upper part.
|
||||||
6b | ★ Anita2015 - with valldryzen | 20m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Good warm up until the first anchor. Then you need to know where the hidden pocket is^^
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Bassilandia Settore A | ||||||
6a | ★★★ Fragolina | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice line - has got it all, from the mono to the tufa!
|
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6a+ | ★ Generazione X | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First route insight since 2.5 years or so, and was a battle in the last meters reading it right xD
|
||||||
6b+ | ★ La Zeppola | 15m, 7 | Average | |||
Felt hard and techy, missed some feet.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Radicchio | 25m, 14 | Average | |||
Bailed at the entrance tufa boulder
|
||||||
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
Bassilandia Settore A | ||||||
6b | ★★ Papillon | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two boulders and some nice climbing in between.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★★ La signora brucatutto - with valldryzen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice line, esp. when you know where to go/where the holds are. Need to come back for the redpoint ^^
|
||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★ Andromeda | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice and easy up until a crux section where staying on the left of the bulge makes life easier.
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ Petra marginis - with valldryzen | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climbing holiday after five years, felt very unusual back on rope and my head game definitely suffered XD Bailed just before the anchor because I didn't want to use the undercling - went up with the crimps on the right after resting in the rope
|
||||||
Wed 22nd Sep 2021 - Margalef | ||||||
Can Gueli | ||||||
7a | ★★ Naturalment - with valldryzen | 17m, 9 | Average | |||
Checked it out and found it much harder compared to the 6c+ on its left - tricky in the upper part, no rest.
|
||||||
6c | ★ Pim Pam - with valldryzen | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, but definitely need to find the good pockets in the grey stone before a send (2nd go) xD
|
||||||
6c+ | Machoman - with valldryzen | 17m, 8 | Average | |||
Two cruxes to get on a bulge, respectively. In between nice on orange stone, the grey part is rather sharp..
|
||||||
Tue 21st Sep 2021 - Margalef | ||||||
L'Escut | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Esta Ronda La Pago Yo - with valldryzen | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful line on (small) pockets - 3 cruxes in which you need to know exactly what you need to do, combined with technical footwork. Got it clean on top rope my second go
|
||||||
Mon 20th Sep 2021 - Margalef | ||||||
Can Gueli | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Drogados Y Construcciones - with valldryzen | 17m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Superb nice line, steep on jugs in the first part, awesome kneebar rest in the middle, ends on sharper grey pocketed rock (trickier to find them). Second go
|
||||||
7b | ★ Kagonman - with valldryzen | 16m, 10 | Average | |||
Felt quite hard, especially the starting boulder is nuts xD sharp in the upper part.
|
||||||
6b | ★ La ràpida - with valldryzen | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Didn't feel that much easier than the neighbor route for a warm-up.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Erboristeria Alta | ||||||
6b | ★ Curcuma - with valldryzen | 18m | Average | |||
Short line, easy until the tufa part, that was just scary so I didn't bother going further.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ Henne' - with valldryzen | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky bit in the middle with huge underclings but somewhat hard to get into them, also two clipping positions right there could have been nicer, but all in all a good yet tough 6b+.
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Tormentilla - with valldryzen | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The guide says 6b+ but I also thought the crux was pretty tough for the grade, especially when you are putting up the draws you only get shitty micro crimps to work with..still the rest is good training.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Erboristeria Bassa | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Ignatia - with valldryzen | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy until the first tufa, easier to get there if you use the big flake on the right. Then go up high into the higher rail (there is a good crimo to the left of an obvious bigger hold), then use the crack behind the right block to move up into good jugs and flakes. Enduring until the very end, which is quite balancy right before the anchor. Big moves, putting up the draws was my training xD
|
||||||
Fri 4th Sep 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Erboristeria Alta | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Artemisia - with valldryzen | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice crimpy and technical first half, then a little roof, first followed by easier moves and then some weird broccoli balancy slab toward the end, which I personally did not enjoy so much. Some longer moves included in this route, but really beautiful! Felt a little hard for 7a.
|
||||||
7a | ★ Cumino - with valldryzen | 15m | ★ Good | |||
15m 7a, easy start, then comes a nice tufa with the possibility to do a kneebar rest (your leg will suffer) before the final powerful crux, where you have to go left before you go up.
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Farfara - with valldryzen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Almost onsighted this one at the end of the session, the crux is really right before the anchor and maybe the little belly before..felt doable for the grade and putting in draws.
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Verbena - with valldryzen | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and doable, crimpy crux in the middle where the rock is black, felt hard compared to farfara (6c).
|
||||||
Wed 2nd Sep 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Ippodromo | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Nadalsheba - with valldryzen | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Steep and athletic first part, then easier to the top, where it gets really sharp.
|
||||||
6b | ★ Shably - with valldryzen | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Super easy until the last 2 meters, then a very doable boulder move. Rock is sharp, as in the entire sector
|
||||||
6c | ★ Unika - with valldryzen | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Again easy until the final bulge, then two committing boulder moves and a finish with your face in the little plant at the anchor xD
|
||||||
7a | ★★ Gold E Agle - with valldryzen | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Easy first part, then some serious moves on flakes and other stuff where it gets steep.
|
||||||
7a | ★★ Ribot - with valldryzen | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Steep and athletic in the first bit, huge pockets in the upper part. The finish is strange..overall very sharp.
|
||||||
Tue 1st Sep 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Terminal | ||||||
6b | ★★ JFK - with valldryzen | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Definitely not easier than Dulles, so 6b as in the guide, with Dulles as 6a+.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ LA GUARDIA - with valldryzen | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt really good except for one runout when onsighting, sadly lost my confidence at the second last bolt before the anchor..
|
||||||
Mon 31st Aug 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Terminal | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ CHARLES DE GAULLE - with valldryzen | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Dulles - with valldryzen | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Topo das 6a+, I think 6b fits better
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ NEWARK - with valldryzen | 25m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice line, sadly failed at the crux in the last third when onsighting
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Non Conclude - with valldryzen | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
No power or mindset left, so let it go
|
||||||
Sat 29th Aug 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Tortuga Tortuga central | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lime - with valldryzen | 15m | Average | |||
Sat 29th Aug 2020 - Val Pennavaire | ||||||
Tortuga Tortuga left side | ||||||
6b | ★★ Adventure Gally - with valldryzen | 15m | ★ Good |