Ascents by Lee Cujes

Just an access pitch.

Exposed scramble. Must not fall.

Soloed onsight in the rain in tevas. I suppose I could have been naked and blindfolded

FSA

Phil's and my first nailing route. Over two full days. First pitch A2+ (Phil - 3 hours). Second pitch A1+ (me - 2 hours). Third pitch A3+ (Phil - 5 hours). Fourth pitch A3+ (me - 6+ hours!!). Way soft rock. Hard and scary in places. I took a decent whipper on the final pitch after blowing a hook. Video | My gallery | Phil's Gallery | Trip report

Epic! 12 hours, doing last pitch and walk down in the dark. Very memorable.

This will eventually be freed by someone, but it won't be me. You'll need to enjoy pulling and campussing on quite small, sharp-ish holds through a more than horizontal roof.

Couldn't pull the lip and too lazy to go back. Happy for someone else to do this.

Not even close.

Flashed the start on top rope, amazing. Such cool unlikely climbing. Did the rest afterwards on TR.

First started looking at it today, the day before I sent Vicious Wishes. Toproped the opening move (couldn't do second) and brushed it up. Considered if it could be equipped without impacting the routes on either side.

On Vicious Wishes send day. Loose rock removed, equipped, brushed, chalked. Tried second move 20+ times without success.

Clipped the bolt and rolled out to start the new climbing. Brick wall. Tanked. Tried the crux move and did it for the first time, left hip to the wall. The n tried 8 more times and failed every one. Not cool.

Same again, couldn't do anything after clipping the bolt. After a rest, climbed from the beginning of the new climbing to the top cleanly. So that's good.

Was hoping to do well and couldn't even clip the bolt. Faaaark.

1 - that sucked. fell on move out right. feeling crap today. super pumped. learned something though about the clip. tuck right in and press hard with left foot.

Fell stabbing to pocket before the clip, pretty woeful. Only managed to do the crux move once today.

Back to it after the Dragon. Stopped at Shaden transition. Couldn't link any moves into a clean crux throw. But did go from start of new climbing to top clean.

Fell on wide undercling. Why is it always so hard? Did go from start of new climbing to top clean, again. Need to begin climbing into it from lower. Nate got on it today for a play.

1 - Couldn't clip bolt. Feeling extremely strong, but flash pumped. Bouldered out the crux several times. Then started experimenting with skipping the clip. Epic falls. Climbed from the Shaden underlings all the way through and grabbed the top draw. Took fall from crux and landed 2m from ground in tree. Need to figure long sling clip method for top bolt to avoid grounding out.

2 - to beginning of the link, couldn't clip. Wanted to sort out long sling for top bolt, could not figure any alternative clipping position - can't take a hand off. Then tried to make the lower clip easier by extending it - not possible. Came down extremely discouraged.

3 - Nate went up and figured a different way to clip the lower bolt, so I went up and, OMG, it helps a lot. The difference was moving one thumb a few inches. World's of difference. Okay, the game is on now. Psyche is back.

1 - just bolt to bolting.

2 - pulled rope to clip and came off, breaking my cardinal rule. Landed 2m off the deck, excellent catch from Sam.

3 - could not sort the clip. So then put in work and discovered facing the other way and not looking at the quickdraw could be the answer. Did it a few times. Like.

1 - high point. blind clip, did first move, pulled up a bit but no power to do crux. actually strongest through the underclings I've been in ages. Really good shot. Warmed up just with the 20, 24 and got on this still warm ~10 mins.

2 - same highpoint (the first big move), but a little weaker. had no ability to pull up on right hand.

3 - exhaustion lap

1 - dicked up the clip, some finger freeze

2 - climbed up as per shadenfreude to try to get some linkage into crux. figured out alternate, bridging method for crux throw and felt like it might be more secure.

3 - final go wearing magos for new bridging crux and L foot kept blowing off.

#1 - I'm in no condition for this, but I refined the bridging beta today. Nice to feel it in cold conditions.

#2 - First crux move, L foot on low flat edge, R foot to box, L foot stem way out, then the huge move. This is the best way so far.

Gone backwards on it. Need to train.

Got the move to the fin for the first time.

Good to get up here with Glenn and have a play. And prod him back on his intimidating project.

Had a sit Bloody top route with a fantastic gaston move. Either 25 or 26.

Climbed on with Glenn's permission. OS to last bolt which I was happy with. It them gets HARD! Needs a bit more cleaning. It'll be good'n'hard.

Had a play with Reido. All moves done bar the middle boulder.

Gentlemen's sit. This will be either 25 or 26. Go get it Glenn!

Needs some good conditions and someone with a big reach and good pounce.

I reckon this needs to finish left!

Had a play with permission. Couldn't do bugger all in the low corner. Did manage to do all the moves in the upper section but it was totally nails. If the lower corner can be unlocked, this will go.

Probably 10 tries on this to date. Very psyched on it, and still actively trying it. Still yet to pull the crux sequence.