Rating | Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1631
points
| 5.10b 5.10c |
★★ In the Firing Line
![]() | 26m, 3 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Mon 4th Sep 2017 | |||
1589
points
| 5.10 |
★★★ Old Faithful
![]() | 30m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Aug 2016 | |||
What a beauty. Relatively sustained crux section leading to the bolt and right until the ramp (with the tree) is gained. A bit of runout here and there unless you really want to fiddle. The 5.8 section at the top needs some gas left in the tank.
|
|||||||||
1355
points
| 5.10d |
★★★ Compulsion
![]()
1
5.10c
lead by
Andres
2
5.10b
lead by
Gavin
3
5.9
lead by
Andres
4
5.10d
lead by
Gavin
| 92m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 11th Jul 2016 | |||
What a fantastic route. Good gear through most of it. The third pitch has some of the nicest movement I've seen on Mazinaw. Fourth pitch is tough, harder than it looks from the belay.
Bring micro cams, doubles to #2, and a #3 is nice but not necessary I don't think. |
|||||||||
1278
points
| 5.9 |
★★ Butt Light (The Butt Light)
![]()
1
5.9
lead by
Gavin
2
5.8
lead by
Gavin
3
5.6
lead by
Dan
| 190m, 4 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Sep 2017 | |||
Great climbing. I’d take the finger crack and traverse over the chimney given the option, but both are fun.
|
|||||||||
1277
points
| 5.9 |
★★ Happy Noodle
![]() | 18m | Squamish | Mon 4th Sep 2017 | ||||
1276
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ Baby Lizard
![]() | 45m | Squamish | Sun 3rd Sep 2017 | ||||
1246
points
| 5.10c |
★ Oedipus Complex
![]()
1
lead by
Gavin
2
lead by
Andres
3
4
| 130m | Banff | ★ Good | Wed 7th Sep 2016 | |||
1211
points
| 5.10 |
★★★ Thunder Crack and Lighting
![]()
1
lead by
Gavin
2
lead by
Not done
| Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 15th Oct 2016 | ||||
These are two separate routes in the guidebook, just one on top of the other. I did Thunder Crack 5.9. I'll consider going back for Lightning, didn't get a great look at it.
Took a quick rest because my endurance is crap and both shoulders funky, but a really fun route. More layback than jamming, usually decent feet. There's a fixed piton in the cove left of the base to anchor the boat to, handy so the boat can drift left of the base once the leader gets moving (better a water fall than a boat fall after a meter or two). |
|||||||||
1175
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ El Camino Real
![]() | 35m | Beaver Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Oct 2016 | |||
What a beautiful line. The finger crack finish is an unusual Escarpment feature.
As far as big gear goes, a #4 and #5 were sufficient. A #6 would be more secure than the 5. |
|||||||||
1171
points
| 5.10 |
★★ High Wind Over Jamaica
![]() | 65m | Bon Echo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Jun 2016 | |||
We weren't sure of the exact route around the crux, but what we did was relatively clean (considering how rarely this is climbed), had good gear, and felt like the grade.
Pumpy crux but on a bomber #3. Sometimes delicate but not particularly hard (5.6-7) moves up until the crux. Great test immediately afterwards on the ledge immediately below the belay. |
|||||||||
1168
points
| 5.9 |
★★ First Class
![]() | 25m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Sep 2016 | |||
1162
points
| 5.10b 5.9 |
★★ Inferno
![]() | 45m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Aug 2016 | |||
Instant classic, no question. Very unlike other routes on the cliff, but extremely pleasant.
Ball nuts are immensely useful. #4 nice to have for a horizontal before the last layback section towards the top. |
|||||||||
1148
points
| 5.9 |
★★ Amphitheatre
![]() | 20m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jul 2016 | |||
Fantastic line. I didn't bother with the upper part, which looks easy, and went for the convenience of the anchor half way up, after the crux. Recommended. Glue-ins are unfortunately very awkwardly placed.
|
|||||||||
1135
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ Double Crux Bypass
![]() | 65m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd May 2016 | |||
Really fun first pitch. Second pitch has very, very sparse pro for the length of the traverse. Thoughtful and small pro. The crux (last) move was relatively straightforward with long reach, more strenuous for a shorter second.
|
|||||||||
1130
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ Cat's Tail
![]() | 24m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th May 2016 | |||
Brilliant, varied route. Relatively sustained with a couple half decent rests (one immediately under the fun roof). Great gear the whole way up. Double #1 and #2 were very helpful.
|
|||||||||
1018
points
| 5.10c 5.10 |
★★★ Stolen Chimney
![]() | 95m, 12 | Fisher Towers | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 30th Mar 2015 | |||
Led P2 and (of course) P4. We freed the two short bolt ladders, but I think 10c is more realistic.
|
|||||||||
969
points
| 5.8 |
★★★ Diedre
![]()
1
lead by
N
2
lead by
G
3
lead by
N
4
lead by
G
5
lead by
N
6
lead by
G
| 220m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | |||
931
points
| 5.10d |
Splat
![]() | 30m | Squamish | Sat 2nd Sep 2017 | ||||
918
points
| 5.8 |
★★★ El gran techo
![]() | 80m | Suesca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 26th Mar 2016 | |||
Fun route, heady but solid crux pitch with great pro. If you're more than 2 people, the bolted belay at the end of the traverse pitch is uncomfortable (very small feet on a ~60º slab).
|
|||||||||
878
points
| 5.7 |
Top Ramen
![]() | 8m | Squamish | Average | Fri 8th Sep 2017 | |||
878
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Banana Peel (Banana Peel P1)
![]()
1
5.7
lead by
Gavin
| 250m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Sep 2017 | |||
Simul climbed in a single block
|
|||||||||
877
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ Long Time No See
![]()
1
5.9
lead by
Gavin
2
5.9
lead by
Dan
3
5.7
lead by
Gavin
4
5.7
lead by
Dan
5
5.5
lead by
Gavin
6
5.7
lead by
Gavin
7
5.8
lead by
Dan
8
5.7
lead by
Gavin
9
5.8
lead by
Dan
| 270m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Sep 2017 | |||
Nice, easy cracks with fun features on some pitches. Very enjoyable morning.
|
|||||||||
876
points
| 5.9 |
★★ Joe’s Crack
![]() | 15m | Squamish | Sun 3rd Sep 2017 | ||||
Escaped right, I was sweating buckets in the sun and could not commit to those burly slab + mantel moves at the top.
|
|||||||||
842
points
| 5.8 |
★★ Shimmy
![]() | 24m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jul 2015 | |||
Really did not want to commit to that layback, but it's absolutely the way to go. Great hands once you're in it.
|
|||||||||
818
points
| 5.10a |
★★ Diedro Rosado
![]() | 18m | Suesca | ★★★ Classic | Mon 28th Mar 2016 | |||
Great finger crack, better than it looks. Small cams and offset nuts protect it reasonably well (I placed pro on rappel after being warned the gear was bad, intending to lead on pre-placed gear, instead chickened out and toproped it - should have led though).
|
|||||||||
769
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Boomstick Crack (Broomstick crack)
![]() | 60m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | |||
769
points
| 5.7 |
★★★ Squatter's Rights
![]() | 28m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | |||
756
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ Double Crux Bypass
![]()
1
5.8
lead by
Gavin
2
5.7
lead by
Kit
3
5.9
lead by
Gavin
| 65m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 31st Jul 2016 | |||
Certainly an easier crux move the second time around.
|
|||||||||
743
points
| 5.8 5.10a |
★★ Agitez Bien
![]() | 17m | Beaver Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Aug 2014 | |||
719
points
| 5.9 |
★★ Natalio Ruiz
![]() | 18m, 3 | Suesca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 29th Mar 2016 | |||
Much easier if you're tall, but still a somewhat tricky sequence soon after the first bolt. Fun route.
|
|||||||||
718
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ El acróbata
![]() | Suesca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Mar 2016 | ||||
Committing layback at the crux on very good gear with a reasonably clean fall path. The last hand jam is a little slippery, but not too bad. The right foot sequence (it's not too unclear) makes it much easier.
I was surprised by the degree of overhang and sat on a piece to gather the courage (I had mistaken the route for a 5.7). |
|||||||||
717
points
| 5.7 |
★★★ LP
![]() | 160m | Suesca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 22nd Mar 2016 | |||
Fantastic route. The dihedral crack after the traverse on the second pitch was very challenging, felt much harder than 5.7. Every pitch offers unique fun, though.
|
|||||||||
716
points
| 5.7 |
★★★ La cédula
![]() | 150m | Suesca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st Mar 2016 | |||
Absolutely lovely route. The face on the first pitch is tricky and the bolts are sometimes out of reach when you need them. I placed a large hex before clipping the second bolt on the face. The second pitch is easily in my top 3 of the routes I've climbed here: less-than-vertical hand crack dihedral and through a roof on good hands and feet with good pro. Great route.
|
|||||||||
716
points
| 5.9 |
★★ Puños
![]() | 8m | Suesca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Mar 2016 | |||
Great short crack climb. Good pro and tricky feet before you traverse left under the roof to good hands and then easy climbing to the top.
|
|||||||||
697
points
| 5.10c |
★★ Elephantiasis
![]() | 30m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Sep 2016 | |||
694
points
| 5.7 5.7 PG13 |
★★★ Double Cross
![]() | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 6th Jan 2016 | |||
What a blast. Absolute bomber jams once you establish yourself in the crack just under the bulge. I feel the runout to the first piece of gear is a bit exaggerated, it's very easy terrain (I did the direct start, straight up) and the first piece is perfect.
|
|||||||||
693
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Leaping Leaner
![]() | 15m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Jan 2016 | |||
Did this to practice for Double Cross (since it looked a bit intimidating, and my jamming experience is limited). Great hands. The start, leading up to the crack, is slightly difficult to protect and certainly the crux.
|
|||||||||
692
points
| 5.7 |
★ Swishbah
![]() | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Wed 30th Dec 2015 | ||||
691
points
| 5.7 |
★ Lazy Day
![]() | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Dec 2015 | ||||
Fun moves through the crux, protects reasonably well.
|
|||||||||
691
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Flash Gordon
![]() | 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Dec 2015 | |||
Nice climbing. The runout to the left and up to the bolt on the slab (if done in one pitch) could easily make for a ground fall. A piece in between would be possible but would introduce some real drag.
|
|||||||||
681
points
| 5.10b |
Trixie
![]() | 8m | Squamish | Sun 3rd Sep 2017 | ||||
Balancey. I’ll get that top move next time.
|
|||||||||
678
points
| 5.8 5.9 |
★★ Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4)
![]() | 190m, 4 | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Thu 7th Sep 2017 | |||
Took an alternate start from the left. Sustained slab past several bolts (thankfully).
|
|||||||||
677
points
| 5.6 |
All You Can Eat Pasta Buffet
![]() | 15m | Squamish | Mon 4th Sep 2017 | ||||
663
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Paradise Lost
![]()
1
5.6
lead by
Gavin
2
5.7
lead by
Gavin
3
5.4
lead by
Luke
| 70m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Sep 2015 | |||
Linked 1 & 2, very minimal rope drag if you extend the first piece (furthest right).
|
|||||||||
657
points
| 5.7 |
★★★ Knob Hill
![]() | 65m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Sep 2015 | |||
Did it in 5 pitches with two seconds. Belayed both immediately following the crux at the start of the second pitch and at the end of the traverse to keep an eye on them. GREAT climb, tough crux with good gear, really fun traverse with one or two really exposed moves.
|
|||||||||
657
points
| 5.7 5.8 |
★★ Top Secret
![]() | 90m, 4 | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Sep 2015 | |||
I can see why this was a classic 5.3. Naturally though, now the draw is the 5.7 crux. It's well bolted and the moves are not overly difficult, and it's only a few moves. I thought it was a ton of fun. I also have no idea what the correct finish on the last pitch is, I went up and right at the next large tree after the belay.
|
|||||||||
642
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Flaked Out
![]() | 24m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jul 2015 | |||
Really nice moves through the roof. #5 as Raymond Kam says. I bumped it a couple times for good measure.
|
|||||||||
629
points
| 5.8 5.7 |
★★ Sunshine
![]() | 25m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | |||
Took the 5.8+ variation over the roof (straight up instead of around to the right). Decent holds to pull, a little less for a short distance immediately above it that makes it spicy. The arete/wide crack towards the top is fun.
|
|||||||||
621
points
| 5.7 |
★ Vanna, Pick Me a Number!
![]() | 8m | Halton Region | Average | Sat 9th May 2015 | |||
There's some great opportunity for crack technique in the first half or so, but it's possible to 'cheat' using holds further to the right. I opted for a few sloppy bushwacking moves to utilize the rap anchors on the sport climb to its left. I went left at the highest point possible, I recommend committing to a couple traverse moves a little bit lower to avoid the trees. My partner did it just fine (on TR).
|
|||||||||
621
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Crazy Legs Ale
![]() | 14m | Halton Region | ★ Good | Sat 9th May 2015 | |||
Nice climbing, only one or two 5.7 moves, the rest is more like 5.5 or maybe 5.6. I repeat it almost every time we end our day at the gully as means of exiting.
|
|||||||||
619
points
| 5.7 |
★★★ Camel
![]() | 25m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd May 2015 | |||
Great fun. Eats pro, but it's all solid leading up to the 'headwall' after the tree. Slightly more spaced out from there. Exciting finish. Did this once the previous season not knowing what it was...
|
|||||||||
609
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ Kor-Ingalls
![]()
1
lead by
G
2
lead by
S
3
lead by
S
4
lead by
G
| 120m, 3 | Castle Valley | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Mar 2015 | |||
GREAT climbing. I thought both chimney options were pretty tight, and the leftmost one was devoid of texture.
|
|||||||||
578
points
| 5.8 |
★ Fata Morgana
![]() | 40m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Fri 8th Sep 2017 | |||
577
points
| 5.8 |
★★ 50 Lashes With a Wet Noodle
![]() | 15m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Mon 4th Sep 2017 | |||
576
points
| 5.8 |
★★ Pixie's Corner
![]() | 15m | Squamish | Sun 3rd Sep 2017 | ||||
575
points
| 5.8 5.10a |
★★ Agitez Bien
![]() | 17m | Beaver Valley | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Oct 2016 | |||
535
points
| 5.6 |
★★ The Rose Tattoo
![]() | 50m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Mon 23rd May 2016 | |||
5.8 finish variation. Great climbing throughout. Not a ton of gear, but good placements can be found. I ignored a couple of the particularly bad pitons.
|
|||||||||
518
points
| 5.6 |
★★ CAEC
![]() | 80m | Suesca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Mar 2016 | |||
Did this first during the day and then a couple days later after dark. There's only one 5.6 move (from the initial ramp into the traverse), the rest is 5.4. Instead of moving very far on the traverse and dealing with rope drag if you protected the 5.6 move, you can instead move straight up the face on easy ground to the first belay (very similar to the proper route).
|
|||||||||
516
points
| 5.6 |
★★ La clavícula
![]() | 80m | Suesca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Mar 2016 | |||
514
points
| 5.6 |
★★★ Final Finale Direct
![]() | 27m | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Mar 2016 | |||
493
points
| 5.6 |
★ Mike's Books
![]() | 49m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Direct (right) start. Great hand jams, but slightly greasy with very limited feet for the first couple moves. Protected with a #.75.
|
|||||||||
493
points
| 5.8 |
★★ The Flake
![]() | 43m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Screwed up the sequence at the top of the chimney, didn't switch from feet right to feet left at the right time. Sat on a #5. Extremely pleasant climbing thereafter.
|
|||||||||
491
points
| 5.6 |
★★ Jaws
![]() | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Mon 28th Dec 2015 | ||||
Fun chimney, tons of friction on the back and feet. It feels a little bit distressing when the obvious first pro is about a metre away (and the ground 10+ metres down), but the climbing is easy.
|
|||||||||
457
points
| 5.6 |
★★★ Womb at the Top
![]() | 45m | Bon Echo | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Sep 2015 | |||
Accidentally exited through the womb to the right, definitely not the right way. Went back in and took the first upward way out, which turned out to be a bizarre, committing bellyflop move. The real exit was further back left, the first one you encounter. Would do again.
|
|||||||||
457
points
| 5.6 |
★★★ Formication & Mac's Book
![]() | 70m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Sep 2015 | |||
Found formication easier (5.5) and Mac's Book harder (5.7). Formication is run out slab, but there's gear for the first half and the second half is pretty easy up to good gear and a bolted anchor. Mac's Book is pretty strenuous, especially when the seam gets too thin for fingers. There are virtually zero feet for the length of it, it's all pure slab.
|
|||||||||
430
points
| 5.7 5.6 |
★★ Sian
![]() | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Mon 8th Jun 2015 | ||||
Nice flow. Careful with rope drag. Good pro. The descent is a sketchy gully downclimb to climber's left, probably treacherous when very wet.
|
|||||||||
429
points
| 5.6 |
★ Sperber
![]() | Halton Region | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | |||||
410
points
| 5.9 |
★★★ Epinephrine
![]() | 680m | Red Rock | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 7th May 2014 | |||
403
points
| 5.7 |
★ Lazy Day
![]() | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Jan 2017 | ||||
378
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Broomstick crack
![]() | 60m | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 7th Sep 2017 | |||
335
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Paradise Lost
![]() | 70m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd May 2016 | |||
315
points
| 5.5 |
★★★ Right On
![]() | 400m | Joshua Tree National Park | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Dec 2015 | |||
Figured this would be a nice warm-up morning having led most of it in April. Nope, turns out it's super cold on this shaded side of Saddle Rock at this time of year, and it made the slab very difficult. Wandered far left with 8+ metres of runout to avoid the steepest section of slab, which was a non-issue in the spring.
|
|||||||||
292
points
| 5.7 |
★ Calcutta
![]() | Joshua Tree National Park | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Jan 2016 | ||||
There might be a 5.8 move through the crux. I got stuck briefly facing right, unable to see a foothold behind me.
|
|||||||||
281
points
| 5.5 |
★★★ Fanny Hill
![]() | 98m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 5th Sep 2015 | |||
267
points
| 5.5 |
★★ Jolly Roger
![]() | 30m | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jul 2015 | |||
262
points
| 5.5 |
★★★ Boris' Route
![]() | 70m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | |||
Perfect route, 5.5 on the nose. Stay left when in question, I accidentally took the upper ramp towards the end of the second pitch (link 1 & 2). As the guide book says, pulling the roof is the way to go. Traversing (left) to the bolted belay is a little awkward from there, protect your second if they're going the same way.
|
|||||||||
256
points
| 5.5 |
★★★ Vertiginous
![]() | 65m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Jun 2015 | |||
Great fun. The first pitch was interesting. I went straight up instead of left before heading left to the traverse, 120cm extension on the bolt. The belay ledge after the traverse is bad, I went up to the great tree ledge above it (with a bolt).
|
|||||||||
254
points
| 5.5 |
★★ Reservoir
![]() | Halton Region | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | ||||
Great, somewhat varied 5.6 climbing. Good pro. I wouldn't recommend rappelling from its anchors, landing the rope in water after pulling it is almost inevitable. Using an adjacent climb's anchors would be better.
|
|||||||||
243
points
| 5.5 |
★ Four No More
![]() | 14m | Halton Region | ★ Good | Sun 3rd May 2015 | |||
237
points
| 5.7 |
★★ Very Thin Nicholas
![]() | 60m | Bon Echo | ★★ Very Good | Fri 3rd Jul 2015 | |||
I did this route up to the roof and went right, merging briefly with Saucer Lucy above the overhang and going straight (slightly left) to the rap station. I don't think there's any pro for this route above the roof, aside from a cam a couple metres above it.
|
|||||||||
231
points
| 5.7 |
★★ 318
![]() | 45m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Jun 2015 | |||
That crux finish.. solid Bon Echo 5.8, I'd say. Did it after many hours of torrential downpour the night before, it was slippery most of the way up, made it very heady in places.
|
|||||||||
198
points
| 5.9 |
★ The Father
![]() | 20m | Halton Region | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jul 2016 | |||
I must be missing something. The first 3m of this route is just desperate. If the fat flake to the right is the proper route, it takes serious pinch strength to use it. I flailed around with a first piece clipped from (nearly) the ground and exhausted myself, ended up aiding with slings through those first couple moves.
For what it's worth, a vertical hex in the very, very deep inward-flaring pocket was absolutely bomber as a first piece, and very important for keeping you off the deck (even with it it'll be close).' Message me if you have any beta. I don't understand how these moves translate to a four-star 5.9. |
|||||||||
167
points
| 5.10b 5.9 |
★ La mierda
![]() | 10m | Suesca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
Very hard for 5.9. Mandatory body weight hand jams in a slippery roof-splitting crack and transition into a challenging offwidth with (initially) no feet, as you pass the roof. Barely made it up this, skipped entire moves.
|
|||||||||
132
points
| 5.4 |
★★ French Form
![]()
1
5.3
lead by
Gavin
2
5.3
lead by
Gavin
3
5.0
lead by
Gavin
4
5.4
lead by
Gavin
| 99m, 3 | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | |||
Nice slab with good gear and hands, unusual (for Bon Echo) belay move through vegitation, and completely different fourth pitch. Pitch lengths in the guide book are all wrong. New-ish bolted belay in the middle of the slab at 28m, belay as guide book after another 20m. Third pitch is just moving the belay on secure ground. Helmut cleaned this up a couple years ago, I believe.
|
|||||||||
124
points
| 5.4 |
★★ Boa Constrictor
![]() | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Sun 7th Jun 2015 | ||||
Gear for the OW is in horizontal cracks, one .4 behind a flake inside. Rack is single #2 and below.
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|||||||||
116
points
| 5.6 |
★ El arbolito
![]() | 18m | Suesca | ★ Good | Sat 19th Mar 2016 | |||
113
points
| 5.4 |
★★ Double Lead
![]() | 25m | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd May 2015 | |||
Not exciting with the exception of the move past the roof. The sudden exposure is fun. Gear is great. Great rap anchors at the opposite end of the belay ledge.
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52
points
| 5.4 |
★★★ Front of the Pinnacle
![]() | 100m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Oct 2014 | |||
Buckets of fun on that third pitch. Other than cams to back up the two pitons and bolted anchor cord/biners, don't bother bringing any gear.
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0
points
| 5.3 |
★★ The Roof
![]() | 7m | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th May 2015 | |||
Good fun for a 5.3. A bit short on pro leading up to the slingable chockstone if I remember correctly, but pretty secure. Went right towards the top to finish close to the rap anchors further to the right, but the anchor gear might be better on the left.
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0
points
| 5.5 |
★★★ Vertiginous
![]()
1
lead by
Sarah
2
lead by
Kit
3
lead by
Gavin
| 65m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Jul 2016 | |||
0
points
| 5.5 |
★★★ Vertiginous
![]() | 65m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | |||
0
points
| 5.3 |
★★ One Pine
![]() | 120m | Bon Echo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Aug 2014 | |||
0
points
| 5.4 |
★★ Cool Corner
![]() | 65m | Bon Echo | Sat 30th Jul 2016 | ||||
0
points
| 5.5 |
★ Grunge
![]() | 15m | Halton Region | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th May 2015 | |||
Average 5.5, somewhat polished, to the 'traditional' finish on the left. I went for the piton-protected technical finish. I don't regret it, but I sat on a piece to collect myself and switch into 'technical face route' mode. It's probably a bad guess because my head was in 5.5 trad crack zone, but I'd say the top is 5.9 'sport'.
|
|||||||||
0
points
| 5.4 5.5 |
★★ French Form
![]() | 99m, 3 | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jun 2016 | |||
0
points
| 5.4 |
★★★ Front of the Pinnacle
![]()
1
5.4
lead by
Gavin
2
5.4
lead by
Andres
3
5.4
lead by
Andres
| 100m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st May 2016 | |||
We added a bolt to the first belay (end of the first pitch) to create a two-bolt anchor where previously it was a bolt and a questionable pin.
|
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0
points
| 5.4 |
Ray's Ceiling
![]() | Halton Region | Average | Sun 17th Apr 2016 | ||||
This is not quite what it looks like from the ground. Easy 5.4 up to the overhanging flake, but then it's an extremely tight, near featureless chimney behind there. Lots of squirming as you're forced out a ways by a roof. I did it in my approach shoes and wished I had my climbing shoes on. I thought it was fun but would not have had fun without any prior chimney experience.
|
|||||||||
0
points
| 5.4 5.4 G |
★★ Afternoon Delight
![]() | 40m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | |||
Great classic as a warmup or last pitch when the sun is getting low.
|
|||||||||
0
points
| 5.4 |
★★★ Front of the Pinnacle
![]() | 100m | Bon Echo | ★★★ Classic | Fri 3rd Jul 2015 | |||
0
points
| 5.3 |
★★ One Pine
![]() | 120m | Bon Echo | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Jun 2015 |