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Ascents in World by Gavin Smith having trad-cpr or ascent-date

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 106 ascents.

Rating Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
1631 points
5.10b 5.10c In the Firing Line - with dan h Mixed trad 26m, 3 Squamish Classic Mon 4th Sep 2017
1589 points
5.10 Old Faithful - with Sarah, Karen Trad 30m Bon Echo Classic Mon 1st Aug 2016
What a beauty. Relatively sustained crux section leading to the bolt and right until the ramp (with the tree) is gained. A bit of runout here and there unless you really want to fiddle. The 5.8 section at the top needs some gas left in the tank.

 
1355 points
5.10d Compulsion
1 5.10c lead by Andres
2 5.10b lead by Gavin
3 5.9 lead by Andres
4 5.10d lead by Gavin
Trad 92m Bon Echo Mega Classic Mon 11th Jul 2016
What a fantastic route. Good gear through most of it. The third pitch has some of the nicest movement I've seen on Mazinaw. Fourth pitch is tough, harder than it looks from the belay.

Bring micro cams, doubles to #2, and a #3 is nice but not necessary I don't think.

 
1278 points
5.9 Butt Light (The Butt Light)
1 5.9 lead by Gavin
2 5.8 lead by Gavin
3 5.6 lead by Dan
Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Classic Thu 7th Sep 2017
Great climbing. I’d take the finger crack and traverse over the chimney given the option, but both are fun.

 
1277 points
5.9 Happy Noodle Trad 18m Squamish Mon 4th Sep 2017
1276 points
5.9 Baby Lizard - with dan h Trad 45m Squamish Sun 3rd Sep 2017
1246 points
5.10c Oedipus Complex
1 lead by Gavin
2 lead by Andres
3
4
Trad 130m Banff Good Wed 7th Sep 2016
1211 points
5.10 Thunder Crack and Lighting - with Sarah, Chris
1 lead by Gavin
2 lead by Not done
Trad Bon Echo Classic Sat 15th Oct 2016
These are two separate routes in the guidebook, just one on top of the other. I did Thunder Crack 5.9. I'll consider going back for Lightning, didn't get a great look at it.

Took a quick rest because my endurance is crap and both shoulders funky, but a really fun route. More layback than jamming, usually decent feet. There's a fixed piton in the cove left of the base to anchor the boat to, handy so the boat can drift left of the base once the leader gets moving (better a water fall than a boat fall after a meter or two).

 
1175 points
5.9 El Camino Real Trad 35m Beaver Valley Classic Sat 1st Oct 2016
What a beautiful line. The finger crack finish is an unusual Escarpment feature.

As far as big gear goes, a #4 and #5 were sufficient. A #6 would be more secure than the 5.

 
1171 points
5.10 High Wind Over Jamaica - with Gavin Smith Trad 65m Bon Echo Very Good Fri 3rd Jun 2016
We weren't sure of the exact route around the crux, but what we did was relatively clean (considering how rarely this is climbed), had good gear, and felt like the grade.

Pumpy crux but on a bomber #3. Sometimes delicate but not particularly hard (5.6-7) moves up until the crux. Great test immediately afterwards on the ledge immediately below the belay.

 
1168 points
5.9 First Class Trad 25m Squamish Very Good Sat 10th Sep 2016
1162 points
5.10b 5.9 Inferno - with Kit, Andres, Nick Trad 45m Bon Echo Mega Classic Sat 20th Aug 2016
Instant classic, no question. Very unlike other routes on the cliff, but extremely pleasant.

Ball nuts are immensely useful. #4 nice to have for a horizontal before the last layback section towards the top.

 
1148 points
5.9 Amphitheatre - with Nick Hoffman Trad 20m Halton Region Classic Sun 3rd Jul 2016
Fantastic line. I didn't bother with the upper part, which looks easy, and went for the convenience of the anchor half way up, after the crux. Recommended. Glue-ins are unfortunately very awkwardly placed.

 
1135 points
5.9 Double Crux Bypass Trad 65m Bon Echo Classic Sun 22nd May 2016
Really fun first pitch. Second pitch has very, very sparse pro for the length of the traverse. Thoughtful and small pro. The crux (last) move was relatively straightforward with long reach, more strenuous for a shorter second.

 
1130 points
5.9 Cat's Tail - with Nick Hoffman Trad 24m Halton Region Classic Sat 7th May 2016
Brilliant, varied route. Relatively sustained with a couple half decent rests (one immediately under the fun roof). Great gear the whole way up. Double #1 and #2 were very helpful.

 
1018 points
5.10c 5.10 Stolen Chimney Mixed trad 95m, 12 Fisher Towers Mega Classic Mon 30th Mar 2015
Led P2 and (of course) P4. We freed the two short bolt ladders, but I think 10c is more realistic.

 
969 points
5.8 Diedre - with Nicole
1 lead by N
2 lead by G
3 lead by N
4 lead by G
5 lead by N
6 lead by G
Trad 220m Squamish Classic Sun 11th Sep 2016
931 points
5.10d Splat Trad 30m Squamish Sat 2nd Sep 2017
918 points
5.8 El gran techo Trad 80m Suesca Mega Classic Sat 26th Mar 2016
Fun route, heady but solid crux pitch with great pro. If you're more than 2 people, the bolted belay at the end of the traverse pitch is uncomfortable (very small feet on a ~60º slab).

 
878 points
5.7 Top Ramen - with dan h Trad 8m Squamish Average Fri 8th Sep 2017
878 points
5.7 Banana Peel (Banana Peel P1) - with dan h
1 5.7 lead by Gavin
Trad 250m Squamish Classic Thu 7th Sep 2017
Simul climbed in a single block

 
877 points
5.9 Long Time No See - with dan h
1 5.9 lead by Gavin
2 5.9 lead by Dan
3 5.7 lead by Gavin
4 5.7 lead by Dan
5 5.5 lead by Gavin
6 5.7 lead by Gavin
7 5.8 lead by Dan
8 5.7 lead by Gavin
9 5.8 lead by Dan
Trad 270m Squamish Very Good Wed 6th Sep 2017
Nice, easy cracks with fun features on some pitches. Very enjoyable morning.

 
876 points
5.9 Joe’s Crack Trad 15m Squamish Sun 3rd Sep 2017
Escaped right, I was sweating buckets in the sun and could not commit to those burly slab + mantel moves at the top.

 
842 points
5.8 Shimmy Trad 24m Halton Region Classic Sun 19th Jul 2015
Really did not want to commit to that layback, but it's absolutely the way to go. Great hands once you're in it.

 
818 points
5.10a Diedro Rosado Trad 18m Suesca Classic Mon 28th Mar 2016
Great finger crack, better than it looks. Small cams and offset nuts protect it reasonably well (I placed pro on rappel after being warned the gear was bad, intending to lead on pre-placed gear, instead chickened out and toproped it - should have led though).

 
769 points
5.7 Boomstick Crack (Broomstick crack) Trad 60m Squamish Classic Sun 11th Sep 2016
769 points
5.7 Squatter's Rights Trad 28m Squamish Classic Sun 11th Sep 2016
756 points
5.9 Double Crux Bypass - with Kit
1 5.8 lead by Gavin
2 5.7 lead by Kit
3 5.9 lead by Gavin
Trad 65m Bon Echo Classic Sun 31st Jul 2016
Certainly an easier crux move the second time around.

 
743 points
5.8 5.10a Agitez Bien Trad 17m Beaver Valley Classic Sat 23rd Aug 2014
719 points
5.9 Natalio Ruiz Mixed trad 18m, 3 Suesca Very Good Tue 29th Mar 2016
Much easier if you're tall, but still a somewhat tricky sequence soon after the first bolt. Fun route.

 
718 points
5.9 El acróbata Trad Suesca Classic Sun 27th Mar 2016
Committing layback at the crux on very good gear with a reasonably clean fall path. The last hand jam is a little slippery, but not too bad. The right foot sequence (it's not too unclear) makes it much easier.

I was surprised by the degree of overhang and sat on a piece to gather the courage (I had mistaken the route for a 5.7).

 
717 points
5.7 LP Trad 160m Suesca Mega Classic Tue 22nd Mar 2016
Fantastic route. The dihedral crack after the traverse on the second pitch was very challenging, felt much harder than 5.7. Every pitch offers unique fun, though.

 
716 points
5.7 La cédula Trad 150m Suesca Mega Classic Mon 21st Mar 2016
Absolutely lovely route. The face on the first pitch is tricky and the bolts are sometimes out of reach when you need them. I placed a large hex before clipping the second bolt on the face. The second pitch is easily in my top 3 of the routes I've climbed here: less-than-vertical hand crack dihedral and through a roof on good hands and feet with good pro. Great route.

 
716 points
5.9 Puños Trad 8m Suesca Very Good Sat 19th Mar 2016
Great short crack climb. Good pro and tricky feet before you traverse left under the roof to good hands and then easy climbing to the top.

 
697 points
5.10c Elephantiasis - with Nicole Trad 30m Squamish Classic Sat 10th Sep 2016
694 points
5.7 5.7 PG13 Double Cross Trad 30m Joshua Tree National Park Mega Classic Wed 6th Jan 2016
What a blast. Absolute bomber jams once you establish yourself in the crack just under the bulge. I feel the runout to the first piece of gear is a bit exaggerated, it's very easy terrain (I did the direct start, straight up) and the first piece is perfect.

 
693 points
5.7 Leaping Leaner Trad 15m Joshua Tree National Park Very Good Mon 4th Jan 2016
Did this to practice for Double Cross (since it looked a bit intimidating, and my jamming experience is limited). Great hands. The start, leading up to the crack, is slightly difficult to protect and certainly the crux.

 
692 points
5.7 Swishbah Trad Joshua Tree National Park Good Wed 30th Dec 2015
691 points
5.7 Lazy Day Trad Joshua Tree National Park Very Good Mon 28th Dec 2015
Fun moves through the crux, protects reasonably well.

 
691 points
5.7 Flash Gordon Mixed trad 1 Joshua Tree National Park Very Good Mon 28th Dec 2015
Nice climbing. The runout to the left and up to the bolt on the slab (if done in one pitch) could easily make for a ground fall. A piece in between would be possible but would introduce some real drag.

 
681 points
5.10b Trixie Trad 8m Squamish Sun 3rd Sep 2017
Balancey. I’ll get that top move next time.

 
678 points
5.8 5.9 Butt Light (The Squamish Buttress pitches 1-4) - with dan h Mixed trad 190m, 4 Squamish Very Good Thu 7th Sep 2017
Took an alternate start from the left. Sustained slab past several bolts (thankfully).

 
677 points
5.6 All You Can Eat Pasta Buffet - with dan h Trad 15m Squamish Mon 4th Sep 2017
663 points
5.7 Paradise Lost
1 5.6 lead by Gavin
2 5.7 lead by Gavin
3 5.4 lead by Luke
Trad 70m Bon Echo Classic Sun 27th Sep 2015
Linked 1 & 2, very minimal rope drag if you extend the first piece (furthest right).

 
657 points
5.7 Knob Hill Trad 65m Bon Echo Classic Mon 7th Sep 2015
Did it in 5 pitches with two seconds. Belayed both immediately following the crux at the start of the second pitch and at the end of the traverse to keep an eye on them. GREAT climb, tough crux with good gear, really fun traverse with one or two really exposed moves.

 
657 points
5.7 5.8 Top Secret Mixed trad 90m, 4 Bon Echo Classic Sun 6th Sep 2015
I can see why this was a classic 5.3. Naturally though, now the draw is the 5.7 crux. It's well bolted and the moves are not overly difficult, and it's only a few moves. I thought it was a ton of fun. I also have no idea what the correct finish on the last pitch is, I went up and right at the next large tree after the belay.

 
642 points
5.7 Flaked Out Trad 24m Halton Region Classic Sun 19th Jul 2015
Really nice moves through the roof. #5 as Raymond Kam says. I bumped it a couple times for good measure.

 
629 points
5.8 5.7 Sunshine Trad 25m Halton Region Classic Sun 7th Jun 2015
Took the 5.8+ variation over the roof (straight up instead of around to the right). Decent holds to pull, a little less for a short distance immediately above it that makes it spicy. The arete/wide crack towards the top is fun.

 
621 points
5.7 Vanna, Pick Me a Number! Trad 8m Halton Region Average Sat 9th May 2015
There's some great opportunity for crack technique in the first half or so, but it's possible to 'cheat' using holds further to the right. I opted for a few sloppy bushwacking moves to utilize the rap anchors on the sport climb to its left. I went left at the highest point possible, I recommend committing to a couple traverse moves a little bit lower to avoid the trees. My partner did it just fine (on TR).

 
621 points
5.7 Crazy Legs Ale Trad 14m Halton Region Good Sat 9th May 2015
Nice climbing, only one or two 5.7 moves, the rest is more like 5.5 or maybe 5.6. I repeat it almost every time we end our day at the gully as means of exiting.

 
619 points
5.7 Camel Trad 25m Halton Region Classic Sun 3rd May 2015
Great fun. Eats pro, but it's all solid leading up to the 'headwall' after the tree. Slightly more spaced out from there. Exciting finish. Did this once the previous season not knowing what it was...

 
609 points
5.9 Kor-Ingalls
1 lead by G
2 lead by S
3 lead by S
4 lead by G
Mixed trad 120m, 3 Castle Valley Classic Tue 31st Mar 2015
GREAT climbing. I thought both chimney options were pretty tight, and the leftmost one was devoid of texture.

 
578 points
5.8 Fata Morgana - with dan h Trad 40m Squamish Very Good Fri 8th Sep 2017
577 points
5.8 50 Lashes With a Wet Noodle - with dan h Trad 15m Squamish Very Good Mon 4th Sep 2017
576 points
5.8 Pixie's Corner - with dan h Trad 15m Squamish Sun 3rd Sep 2017
575 points
5.8 5.10a Agitez Bien Trad 17m Beaver Valley Classic Sat 1st Oct 2016
535 points
5.6 The Rose Tattoo Trad 50m Bon Echo Classic Mon 23rd May 2016
5.8 finish variation. Great climbing throughout. Not a ton of gear, but good placements can be found. I ignored a couple of the particularly bad pitons.

 
518 points
5.6 CAEC - with Gavin Smith Trad 80m Suesca Very Good Sun 27th Mar 2016
Did this first during the day and then a couple days later after dark. There's only one 5.6 move (from the initial ramp into the traverse), the rest is 5.4. Instead of moving very far on the traverse and dealing with rope drag if you protected the 5.6 move, you can instead move straight up the face on easy ground to the first belay (very similar to the proper route).

 
516 points
5.6 La clavícula Trad 80m Suesca Classic Sun 20th Mar 2016
514 points
5.6 Final Finale Direct - with Gavin Smith Trad 27m Halton Region Classic Sun 13th Mar 2016
493 points
5.6 Mike's Books Trad 49m Joshua Tree National Park Very Good Sun 3rd Jan 2016
Direct (right) start. Great hand jams, but slightly greasy with very limited feet for the first couple moves. Protected with a #.75.

 
493 points
5.8 The Flake Trad 43m Joshua Tree National Park Very Good Sun 3rd Jan 2016
Screwed up the sequence at the top of the chimney, didn't switch from feet right to feet left at the right time. Sat on a #5. Extremely pleasant climbing thereafter.

 
491 points
5.6 Jaws Trad Joshua Tree National Park Good Mon 28th Dec 2015
Fun chimney, tons of friction on the back and feet. It feels a little bit distressing when the obvious first pro is about a metre away (and the ground 10+ metres down), but the climbing is easy.

 
457 points
5.6 Womb at the Top Trad 45m Bon Echo Very Good Sun 6th Sep 2015
Accidentally exited through the womb to the right, definitely not the right way. Went back in and took the first upward way out, which turned out to be a bizarre, committing bellyflop move. The real exit was further back left, the first one you encounter. Would do again.

 
457 points
5.6 Formication & Mac's Book - with Gavin Smith Trad 70m Bon Echo Classic Sat 5th Sep 2015
Found formication easier (5.5) and Mac's Book harder (5.7). Formication is run out slab, but there's gear for the first half and the second half is pretty easy up to good gear and a bolted anchor. Mac's Book is pretty strenuous, especially when the seam gets too thin for fingers. There are virtually zero feet for the length of it, it's all pure slab.

 
430 points
5.7 5.6 Sian Trad Halton Region Very Good Mon 8th Jun 2015
Nice flow. Careful with rope drag. Good pro. The descent is a sketchy gully downclimb to climber's left, probably treacherous when very wet.

 
429 points
5.6 Sperber Trad Halton Region Sun 7th Jun 2015
410 points
5.9 Epinephrine Trad 680m Red Rock Mega Classic Wed 7th May 2014
403 points
5.7 Lazy Day Trad Joshua Tree National Park Very Good Mon 2nd Jan 2017
378 points
5.7 Broomstick crack - with dan h Trad 60m Squamish Classic Thu 7th Sep 2017
335 points
5.7 Paradise Lost Trad 70m Bon Echo Classic Sun 22nd May 2016
315 points
5.5 Right On Trad 400m Joshua Tree National Park Classic Sun 27th Dec 2015
Figured this would be a nice warm-up morning having led most of it in April. Nope, turns out it's super cold on this shaded side of Saddle Rock at this time of year, and it made the slab very difficult. Wandered far left with 8+ metres of runout to avoid the steepest section of slab, which was a non-issue in the spring.

 
292 points
5.7 Calcutta Trad Joshua Tree National Park Good Sat 2nd Jan 2016
There might be a 5.8 move through the crux. I got stuck briefly facing right, unable to see a foothold behind me.

 
281 points
5.5 Fanny Hill Trad 98m Bon Echo Classic Sat 5th Sep 2015
267 points
5.5 Jolly Roger Trad 30m Halton Region Very Good Sun 19th Jul 2015
262 points
5.5 Boris' Route Trad 70m Bon Echo Mega Classic Sat 4th Jul 2015
Perfect route, 5.5 on the nose. Stay left when in question, I accidentally took the upper ramp towards the end of the second pitch (link 1 & 2). As the guide book says, pulling the roof is the way to go. Traversing (left) to the bolted belay is a little awkward from there, protect your second if they're going the same way.

 
256 points
5.5 Vertiginous Trad 65m Bon Echo Classic Sun 14th Jun 2015
Great fun. The first pitch was interesting. I went straight up instead of left before heading left to the traverse, 120cm extension on the bolt. The belay ledge after the traverse is bad, I went up to the great tree ledge above it (with a bolt).

 
254 points
5.5 Reservoir Trad Halton Region Classic Sun 7th Jun 2015
Great, somewhat varied 5.6 climbing. Good pro. I wouldn't recommend rappelling from its anchors, landing the rope in water after pulling it is almost inevitable. Using an adjacent climb's anchors would be better.

 
243 points
5.5 Four No More Trad 14m Halton Region Good Sun 3rd May 2015
237 points
5.7 Very Thin Nicholas Trad 60m Bon Echo Very Good Fri 3rd Jul 2015
I did this route up to the roof and went right, merging briefly with Saucer Lucy above the overhang and going straight (slightly left) to the rap station. I don't think there's any pro for this route above the roof, aside from a cam a couple metres above it.

 
231 points
5.7 318 Trad 45m Bon Echo Classic Sat 13th Jun 2015
That crux finish.. solid Bon Echo 5.8, I'd say. Did it after many hours of torrential downpour the night before, it was slippery most of the way up, made it very heady in places.

 
198 points
5.9 The Father - with Nick Hoffman Trad 20m Halton Region Good Sun 3rd Jul 2016
I must be missing something. The first 3m of this route is just desperate. If the fat flake to the right is the proper route, it takes serious pinch strength to use it. I flailed around with a first piece clipped from (nearly) the ground and exhausted myself, ended up aiding with slings through those first couple moves.

For what it's worth, a vertical hex in the very, very deep inward-flaring pocket was absolutely bomber as a first piece, and very important for keeping you off the deck (even with it it'll be close).'

Message me if you have any beta. I don't understand how these moves translate to a four-star 5.9.

 
167 points
5.10b 5.9 La mierda Trad 10m Suesca Very Good Wed 23rd Mar 2016
Very hard for 5.9. Mandatory body weight hand jams in a slippery roof-splitting crack and transition into a challenging offwidth with (initially) no feet, as you pass the roof. Barely made it up this, skipped entire moves.

 
132 points
5.4 French Form
1 5.3 lead by Gavin
2 5.3 lead by Gavin
3 5.0 lead by Gavin
4 5.4 lead by Gavin
Mixed trad 99m, 3 Bon Echo Classic Sat 4th Jul 2015
Nice slab with good gear and hands, unusual (for Bon Echo) belay move through vegitation, and completely different fourth pitch. Pitch lengths in the guide book are all wrong. New-ish bolted belay in the middle of the slab at 28m, belay as guide book after another 20m. Third pitch is just moving the belay on secure ground. Helmut cleaned this up a couple years ago, I believe.

 
124 points
5.4 Boa Constrictor Trad Halton Region Very Good Sun 7th Jun 2015
Gear for the OW is in horizontal cracks, one .4 behind a flake inside. Rack is single #2 and below.

 
116 points
5.6 El arbolito Trad 18m Suesca Good Sat 19th Mar 2016
113 points
5.4 Double Lead Trad 25m Halton Region Very Good Sun 3rd May 2015
Not exciting with the exception of the move past the roof. The sudden exposure is fun. Gear is great. Great rap anchors at the opposite end of the belay ledge.

 
52 points
5.4 Front of the Pinnacle Trad 100m Bon Echo Classic Sun 12th Oct 2014
Buckets of fun on that third pitch. Other than cams to back up the two pitons and bolted anchor cord/biners, don't bother bringing any gear.

 
0 points
5.3 The Roof Trad 7m Halton Region Very Good Sun 24th May 2015
Good fun for a 5.3. A bit short on pro leading up to the slingable chockstone if I remember correctly, but pretty secure. Went right towards the top to finish close to the rap anchors further to the right, but the anchor gear might be better on the left.

 
0 points
5.5 Vertiginous - with Sarah, Kit
1 lead by Sarah
2 lead by Kit
3 lead by Gavin
Trad 65m Bon Echo Classic Sat 30th Jul 2016
0 points
5.5 Vertiginous Trad 65m Bon Echo Classic Sat 4th Jun 2016
0 points
5.3 One Pine Trad 120m Bon Echo Very Good Sat 23rd Aug 2014
0 points
5.4 Cool Corner - with Sarah Trad 65m Bon Echo Sat 30th Jul 2016
0 points
5.5 Grunge Trad 15m Halton Region Very Good Sat 9th May 2015
Average 5.5, somewhat polished, to the 'traditional' finish on the left. I went for the piton-protected technical finish. I don't regret it, but I sat on a piece to collect myself and switch into 'technical face route' mode. It's probably a bad guess because my head was in 5.5 trad crack zone, but I'd say the top is 5.9 'sport'.

 
0 points
5.4 5.5 French Form Mixed trad 99m, 3 Bon Echo Classic Sat 4th Jun 2016
0 points
5.4 Front of the Pinnacle
1 5.4 lead by Gavin
2 5.4 lead by Andres
3 5.4 lead by Andres
Trad 100m Bon Echo Classic Sat 21st May 2016
We added a bolt to the first belay (end of the first pitch) to create a two-bolt anchor where previously it was a bolt and a questionable pin.

 
0 points
5.4 Ray's Ceiling - with Gavin Smith Trad Halton Region Average Sun 17th Apr 2016
This is not quite what it looks like from the ground. Easy 5.4 up to the overhanging flake, but then it's an extremely tight, near featureless chimney behind there. Lots of squirming as you're forced out a ways by a roof. I did it in my approach shoes and wished I had my climbing shoes on. I thought it was fun but would not have had fun without any prior chimney experience.

 
0 points
5.4 5.4 G Afternoon Delight Trad 40m Bon Echo Classic Sat 4th Jul 2015
Great classic as a warmup or last pitch when the sun is getting low.

 
0 points
5.4 Front of the Pinnacle Trad 100m Bon Echo Classic Fri 3rd Jul 2015
0 points
5.3 One Pine Trad 120m Bon Echo Very Good Sat 13th Jun 2015

Showing 1 - 100 out of 106 ascents.

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