Routes in World for selected grade

A non existent route.

FFA: Saurabh C.

The first 5.14 in quebec... short but...

Second pitch of Norwegian Crown. Initially climbed as A2.

The direct over the imposing roof features the hardest mantelshelf in the world - a free hanging one-armed flip, with no footholds! Good holds lead to the lip but above there is precious little with which to make progress. If you manage the desperate gymnastics, casually saunter up Elegy to finish. Protected by side-runners (a chockstone in the crack) and RPs low down.

AF XIb. In Mitte der Nordwestschmalseite Wand im Linksbogen (3R) und linkshaltend zum 4.R vom „Ausstiegsgespenst“. Dieses zG.

Hardest route in the Grampians?

Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux.

Iker Pou said: This is the most important route we've ever climbed. We worked it for two whole months this summer and it can be broken down into three sections. The first four pitches are new and very steep and were first ascended with a Rätikon and Wendenstöcke mentality, which means long run-outs from one bolt to the other! The second section shares six pitches of an old route called Mediterraneo, first climbed in 1980 using aid. The 5th pitch is the technical crux at 8c+/9a and although it is a bit easier, it is still 8a+. Both were originally climbed using aid and graded A3, and we risked big falls between 20 -25m. The protection on these pitches was very old, there were some original bolts, but most of the rest are wooden pitons, copperheads, micro-friends and nuts..."

Free Ascents

• 2015 Nina Caprez & Cédric Lachat

Shares start and end with North Star.

Rock and Ice 2016: The Gunks’ New Hardest Climb

One of the hardest cracks in the world.

one of the hardest and longest offwidth cracks in the world

AF XIc.

Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.

1. 28m (33) 3FHs (enormous dyno at 3rd, Rainbow Rocket -style), to gain THE break about 6-8m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Continue up the desperate looking face past 3 FHs which trend R into a thin L-facing flake. Follow this to a chain below the main roof (30m rap).

2. 20m (32/3) This is the left-most bolted line through the major roof which extends all the way from The Seventh Pillar to Serpentine, halfway up Taipan. Another all points off dyno plus amazing water scoop/arete climbing, ending at the 3rd pitch traverse break of The Seventh Pillar. Nalle thought pitch 1 was a bit harder than this pitch, but maybe not by much!

3. 14m (29) Quetzalcoatl last pitch.

Initially graded 8c, Siebe Vanhee and Séb Berthe suggest 8b+ (Aug-2023).

• TOPO.jpg and details on bergsteigen.com

The route takes an initial 45° degree overhanging wall to reach the first roof crux at circa 8a+, before lunging upwards into 8b terrain.

Gear:

Friends up to 3

In der Talseite (unterhalb von kleinem Winkel) über Dach und leicht rechts zu R. Reibung leicht rechts (R) zum 2. R der „Katzenreibung“. Diese zG.

AF Xc. Rechts in der Talseite Wand (8R) zum 5.R der "Wand der Abendröte". Leicht linkshaltend zum 6.R von "Direkte Wand der Abendröte". Deren Rissspur bis Ende und "Superdirekte Wand der Abendröte" zG.

Tiny crimps, minuscule pockets, athletic moves past long runouts. You need to be in good shape, physically but also mentally.

Mittig in der stark überhängenden Südwestseite von mittlerem Block Wand rechtsansteigend (2R) und Südkante zG.

A fingertips crack. Small bumps for feet, ultra-technical movement and finicky gear (the largest piece is a ¾” TCU).

The free version of an old aid route on the east face. The mega ledge to ledge link of the three crack pitches has got to be one of the most inspiring crack projects anywhere! Will Stanhope promises beers for that FA.

The hard pitches:

1. Drunken Dawn Wall Pitch, a.k.a. the Face Pitch (5.14)

2. Blood on the Crack (5.14-)

3. The WooWoo (5.13)

4. Ivokanee (5.13- R)

A combination of the boulder The Green Shadow with Greenspit.

Finishes on Super G.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg17s8prow-/

The quintessential badass steep crack. Will you write your name on an obscure piece of wood in the Canadian forest?

Overhanging crack climb!

Open trad project. Potentially the hardest trad line without limiters in the entirety of Rudawy Janowickie.