Nodo |
---|
Lofoten Vestvågøy Stamsund |
8a
★★★ Hiakk
Sustained climbing on unlikely, but superb featured granite. |
6c
★★★ Black crow king
A short slab then burly moves to establish into the dihedral. It´s engaging stemming, side pulls and jamming from here to the chains. |
5 Walk in the park |
8a
Projekt 2
The hard open projekt directly through the roof. Potentially 8a? |
6c+
★★ Queen Konkylie
Starts in the corner to the right of the roof. Shared lower off with Projekt 2 |
6c+ ★★ Ruta #16 |
5 Foxy Lady |
5 Rock and roll slide |
5
★ Lemon squeezy
Located in the far right corner. |
Kattberget
2 obvious roof cracks sit on the wall above the Theater/yoga studio |
Ukjent 1
The left roof crack |
Ukjent 2
The right roof crack |
Lofoten Vestvågøy |
Sand
No access during the summer. Do not walk through the field until the land owner has cut the grass |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Sand |
7C
★★ Skøgel
Video beta https://youtu.be/2c1QYGLCPhg?t=71 |
7B ★ Second wind |
7C ★ Outlook |
6A+ Nameless 2 |
7A ★ Nameless |
5 Nameless 3 |
Lofoten Vestvågøy |
Haveren
The little information available for Lofoten ice is currently scattered all over the interwebs.. This is an attempt to consolidate that & some local knowledge. If you have more beta, please update |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Haveren |
WI4 Arctic Mousaka |
5 WI4 Første gang |
WI7 M4 Shekina |
Lofoten Vestvågøy |
Eggum
A bit of an oddity for Lofoten, Eggum is a world class sports crag situated in a cave on the NE tip of Vestvågøy. The majority of routes are hard & steep. You won´t find a crag in Northern Norway with this many options in the 8a & harder range. |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Eggum |
There are at least 4 recorded winter lines around Eggum. 1 on the buttress left of the sports crag;
There are at least 4 recorded winter lines around Eggum. 1 on the buttress left of the sports crag; The others just North of Bjørndalen on the walls below Middagsheia. Some potential for new lines on the North facing aspects between Eggum & Unstad. |
British Route
`Follows a long chimney then through a tunnel with a big rock structure above´ |
Cross Route
Follows natural weakness left of Around the edge. |
WI3+ M6 ★ Around the edge |
Haley-Årtun Route
Located on buttress to the right of Around the edge. Topo and some images here |
The wall left of Sector Crux. Rarely climbed.
The wall left of Sector Crux. Rarely climbed. |
7b+ ★★ Vestfjordseilasen |
7b+ ★★★ Live 8 |
The short wall left of the black streaked ´stinky corner´ & the main cliff. It´s deep in the cave an
The short wall left of the black streaked ´stinky corner´ & the main cliff. It´s deep in the cave and stays dry in most conditions. |
6b+
Crux-Judas
Mixed line. Shares lower-off with Rutger Hauer. |
7b+ ★★ Rutger Hauer |
7b ★ Mølje kalas |
8b
Bråtebrann
Starts up Svart Magi before breaking left halfway & into a full body dyno |
8a ★★ Svart magi |
6c ★★ Lille vakre anna |
Hovedveggen |
7a+ ★★ Stinker's corner |
7a+ ★★ Hoppalong Knut |
7c+
★★★ Full belastning
The caves classic hard line |
8a+
★★★ Attaca con tufa
The extension to Full belastning. |
7a+ ★ Ellinors vise |
8b ★★★ Øl som medisin |
7b+
★★★ Commando
The caves classic moderate |
8a+
★★★ Joker nord
The caves king (& hardest) line |
8a ★★★ Aetat |
7b+
Andreas Ruta
Starts right of Aetat via a rope ladder start. Shared lower-off. |
8a+ ★★ Uvørn sjænking |
7b+ ★★ Heimlich maneuver |
7c ★★★ Reidar Sjuse |
7a+
★★★ Gullfaks
The caves classic easy line. |
7c
Think locally
The direct extension to Gullfaks climbs straight up through a blank looking section of the wall. |
8a+
Think locally, fuck globally
The open project extension to Think locally. |
7c+
★★ Gullpils
The rightwards extension to Gullfaks. |
7c ★ Polakken |
7b ★★★ Alopølsa |
7c
★★ Alopils
The extenstion to Alopølsa. |
7a ★★ Alkotest |
6c/c+ ★★ Ildvann |
7a
★★★ Sankthansormen
The extension to Ildvann. |
5c ★ Eggulf |
5c ★★ Baginski spesial |
6a ★ Forselv rederi |
7a
★ Prinsessens søster
The P2 extension to Forselv rederi. |
6a ★★ Is this all, Sophie? |
6a+
★★ Got you fooled there...
The extenstion to Is this all, Sophie? |
Lofoten Vestvågøy |
Unstad |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad |
WI4+
Ukjent 1
If conditions are mild, some ice forms on the Northern end of Unstad (Kleivheia). Some images here: View this post on Instagram |
Fjollejalla |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad Fjollejalla |
6
The outset
The left route. |
6 Podieplass |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad |
Unstad Nord |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad Unstad Nord |
Back to the sea |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad Unstad Nord Back to the sea |
Calm & clearer |
Calm & clear |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad |
Unstad Syd |
Lofoten Vestvågøy Unstad Unstad Syd |
4 Flash factor |
Flare factor |
Lean mean |
Crack attack |
Flee for cover |
Worry free |
Quick zZz |
Flipp flopp |
Squeeze |
Sheep shot |
Highlands |
Lowlands |
Cornerstone |
Diamonds are hard |
Swimming up |
Sorcery |
Hercules |
Low water solo |
Lullestol |
Kykkelikokos |
Dråpetest |