Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Brembo Boulder | |||||
V1 | Slam Dunk
| 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gas Boulder | |||||
V1 | Sookie
| 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Consultant Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Is Don Is Good
Sit stat with a sidepull/undercling and climb straight up the face to top out. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Andersens Slabs | |||||
V1 | ★ Slab 101
Stand start on the left of slab. Follow the flake to the top. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Lillyput Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Lillyput
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Russian Bull Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Peaches & Damsons
Start: Sit start on well chalked jug up to gaston hold pushing over the edge. | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Snowflake Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Snowball
Start of the far right end, traverse to left using pockets and grooves for hand holds. (Not the edge at the top) Good for foothold practice. | 7m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Mandatory Choices Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★★ Neo
'Hands-free' Run very fast across the top of Andersens Consulting Boulder, kick off from adjoining rock and wall-run, Matrix-style, horizontally across the face of Peter Parker before leaping back to main boulder. FA: Mike Fletcher, 2002 | 4m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Wailing Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Panther
| ||||
V1 | ★ Eugene
Start at right end of the boulder following the flake up to the top. Some parts of flakes look really thin. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Button Boulder | |||||
V1 | Joey
| 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Golden Beauty | |||||
V1 | ★★ Golden Beauty
Stand start and climb the majestic grey and orange face. A worthwhile outing. | 6m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Sydney Highrise Boulder | |||||
V1 | Smack Crack
Stand start on a jug at the bottom of the crack and follow it to the top. | 5m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Clyde Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Clyde
| 8m | |||
V1 | ★ Trivial Pursuit
Sit start with a side pull on the large, juggy flake. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Made to Order
Sit start with a side pull on the large, juggy flake. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Fair Dinkum
Sit start on the left side of the low juggy break. Make a big move to the slopey pocket and top out up big holds. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Bad Call
Sit start on the right side of the low break and climb up the line of jugs. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Ass Backwards
Sit start on input flakes just right of Bad Call. Move up left to slopey features and up on jugs. | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Skittle Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Expectations
| 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke The Scab | |||||
V1 | Low Glow
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Sketchy Wall | |||||
V1 | ★ Sketchy
| ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Wrecking Ball | |||||
V1 | Punt Arete
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Wrecking Ball
Start on the jugs low on the break then up over the slopey features. | 6m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ A Long Way From Verona
Wonderful wall climbing with a fair bit of air below your feet on several sections. Very Blue Mountains. Start: Start 5m left of 'Giblets' as a short flake/corner. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993 | 25m | |||
19 | ★ Clicke Crack
"A most impressive crack which has been climbed by a very dubious mean. It will undoubtably be clibmed free in the future...". Ancient Gledhillian text. This is the climb that lends its name to this line of cliff. It takes the wide jagged crack which can be so easily seen from Flat Rock. Start: Starts on the far right edge of the Clicke Cliff. FFA: Kim Carrigan & Andrew Thompson FA: Roger Caffin (aid), 1986 | 21m | |||
19 | Genuine Wage Overhang
| 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Chiusa The Kindergarten (bouldering) | |||||
V1 | ★ Fairy Head
A slopey left-trending rampline starting in the middle of the Cut & Waste traverse line. Low sit-start then technical. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Stairway to Heaven
Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Einhorn Schmetterling
Starts as for 'German Motivation' then goes straight up with a biggish move to good holds FA: Adenjn, 2013 | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Northern Caves | |||||
19 | ★★ Genuine Wage Overhang
Old school overhanging offwidth. Truly an amazing looking line. If you stand directly under the lip of the overhang, you're closer to that than the base of the climb! Start: Starts 50m right of Pink Elephant at the right side of the sandy bouldering cave. Follow the hand-fist-offwidth crack that becomes a chimney through the overhang. Bring tubes, huge cams and the usual trad rack for the finish. FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Expedition Crag | |||||
19 | ★ Day Tripper
| 8m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Pensioners Wall Area | |||||
19 | Old Men
The corner which veers left then back right to the top. Harder than it looks and a bit vegetated. Start: About 30m right of 'Etendard', in the gully formed by the 'Moral Vandal' block the gully widens to permit climbing on the left wall. About 15m into the gully. Guidebook editor could not locate this climb! FA: Greg Davies, Garry Wills, Isa ? & Stan Kucik, 1988 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block | |||||
V1 | ★ Railcross
Not your average walk-in-the-park V1! 'Steep' - starting off the big 'hanging' fridge (a tad sandy) - then heading up via any holds of your choosing. Finish as for 'Fallen Cow'. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Loopeys | |||||
V1 | ★ James
The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature). | 3m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Legoland | |||||
V1 | Better than Enzo
When meandering to The Disgruntler, you may come across this exfoliating boulder. On north side, sit start matched in pocket with high right footer. One or two punchy moves. | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Cut Lunch Walls | |||||
19 | ★ Three Course Meal
A good route up a major water streak on far right end of crag 7m right of 'The Snatch' below a broken easy corner. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2001 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Upper | |||||
19 | ★ Lost in Translation
Starts on the chockstone down in the slot. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish. | 17m, 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Manic Streak Features
Start 2-3 metres left of McHammer at small orange scoop and orange streak below the horizontal crack. Climb directly up a series of the larger short and manic crack lines. A steep exciting end. A large lose block sitting comfortably at the top of this climb is tempting to use as a hold. The McHammer chains can be used after a short right traverse. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Jayden Andrea, 2 Apr 2016 | 17m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower | |||||
19 | ★★ In Halen
Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route. FA: Neil Monteith Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 13m, 4 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Western Crags Sunstroke Area | |||||
19 | ★ Angry Ant
Small north facing steep wall on terrace opposite Summa's a Bummer. X cracks on left side of wall. FA: Hywel Rowlands, 2014 | 12m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Interpretation Wall | |||||
19 | Pulled out at the last minute
Little wall to the left and in front of the main wall. Straight up via good holds to ledge. Up through orange scoops to juggy arete. Up and over the lip to the right to anchors. Tracciata: Kadence Bodard FA: Kadence Bodard, 2017 | 12m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Iskra Crag Eastern Walls | |||||
19 | Angel Dust
Finger / corner crack immediately on the R side of the chimney corner. FA: 1985 | 29m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks Cave Cliff | |||||
19 X | Cromagnon Man
Porly protected. Start: Initialed with white paint. Up short corner, traverse about 5m right on ledge (at 2m). Up corner/ flake and wall above. Walk off. FA: Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, Phil Robinson & Tony Wilson, 1989 | 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks Wave Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ Commissioner Gordon
Sustained steep face climbing, one of the better routes on the cliff? Starts about 5m left of "The Riddler". Delicately up the wall, traversing up and left on good break past 3rd bolt to good clipping stance at 4th bolt. Straight up past 5th bolt to rap station. FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2007 | 14m, 5 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks Watchmen Wall | |||||
19 | Loiterer Left hand Variant
This easier LHV of Loiterer finally provides the much needed warm-up at the cliff. Start directly as for We Like to Watch, or climb in easily right of the first FH. Follow WLTW to its big half way ledge. As for Loiterer, climb diagonally left past 2 FHs to the guano stained ledge. Clip the FH up right with a sling or long quickdraw. Loiter as long as you like, before traversing easily left to the black groove using big underclings. Clip the FH and up to the anchors. FA: Michael O’Reilly, Ross Timms & Steve Chapman, Nov 2016 | 21m, 6 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians The Rockwall Area The Rockwall | |||||
19 | Pony Express
| 50m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians North-West Mt Difficult Range Mt Difficult Cliff Wind Cave | |||||
V1 | Godel Traverse
Up and right to break, right along break, up to next break, up to next break, right to gully. Start: Start at 'Easy Arete' | ||||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Drama Wall | |||||
19 M0 | Exit Stage Left
| 35m, 2 | |||
19 | Fin de Siecle
Major wide corner right of Full Metal Underpants. It’s a great line, but most of us don’t own the gear needed to lead it. Take 1 x #3 Big Bro, Camalots 2 x #3, 3 x #4, 1 x #5, and a light rack of wires and small cams (or a top rope). If you’ve got the gear, and still want to do the climb, proceed as follows:
FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter (alt), 1999 | 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Briggs Bluff | |||||
19 | ★★ Silk Road
Reminiscent of Blimp at Bundaleer. To the right of the main Briggs Bluff face, the cliff curves around to face north west (overlooking Rose Gap), and diminishes in height. About 70m right of the bend is a major corner with a yellow wall on the right and a grey wall (undercut by cave) on the left. There is a 3m roof about 2/3 of the way up the corner. Step into the corner from the left, up and around roof, being careful of rope drag, then exit right on a ledge. Either scramble up right on jugs, or abseil 25m from tree (2m long sling needed). FA: Mike Wust, Jeremy Boreham, James McIntosh & Norm Booth, 2001 | 35m | |||
19 | Marco Polo
| 90m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Centurion Walls Lower Centurion Walls | |||||
19 R | ★ Liberator
A nice feature spoilt by a scary start and less than great rock. Take the steep right hand arete of the small buttress just right of 'Shades of Black'. Scramble in to start across choss from the right. Up arete steeply to the ledge and then up face above on jugs. To avoid rope drag you can split this into two short pitches. FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1995 | 25m | |||
19 R | Ghengis Khan
Interesting wall climbing with much suspect rock. Starts about 10m right of Pining for the Fiords (7m L of KK) at the left most black streak that reaches the ground (flows out of a small wind blown scoop immediately left of a large pile of boulders). Up 4m to the small bush on right. Traverse left for 4m along the break then straight up the wall above to finish just left of the dead tree at the top of the cliff. FA: Campbell Mercer & Alan Hope, 1995 | 45m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Deep Creek Walls | |||||
19 | Monster Mash
| 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Briggs Bluff Area Deep Creek Blocks | |||||
19 | Monster Mash
| 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Wildebeest Creek Cliff Lower | |||||
19 | Pickett’s Charge
About 30m R of Right Crack is a deep chimney [the R hand of 2 chimneys on this cliff]. Climb the overhung stepped corner on the L side of this chimney. FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 30 Gen 2015 | 26m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Wildebeest The Tiers | |||||
19 | ★ Stainless Courage
Nice slab/wall climb. Over steep start, then balance onto slab and across to FH. Up corner, then up the line until another FH leads you into the top corner. Once you gain the arete it's a bit sandy to finish. Rap anchor is 35m from the ground, a 60m rope may not quite make it. FA: Dick Lodge & Goshen Watts, 17 Set 2017 | 40m, 2 | |||
19 | Détente
The next two routes are about a kilometre from No Gnus is Good Gnus. From the track junction above Wildebeest, follow the main track NW for 500m to an orange stone fireplace. Scrub bash north down into a gully then down the gully to the top of the cliff (10 min from track). The climbing is on the portion of the cliff to your right (facing out), and the best descent is at the far end. Cliff faces NW. Start 5m right of the cave nearest the left end of the cliff (cairn). Up face for 12m to where it blanks out. Move left past loose looking flake, then up seam. FA: Chris Baxter & James McIntosh, 2002 | 18m | |||
19 | Gossip Column
About 150m right of Détente and just right of a chimney corner is a thin left facing dihedral corner. Up this and straight through the bulge. (James lowered off half way up leaving the rope on the route, and Chris lead through). FA: James McIntosh & Chris Baxter (alt), 2002 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Split Pinnacle | |||||
19 | The Rush
Climb up the right side of Split Pinnacle through a bulge, then move left around to the front and up to a ledge. Continue up to the diagonal break that goes across the ceiling, head along this and onto the face, then move hastily to the top. FA: Wayne Maher & Peter Cunningham, 1990 | 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land | |||||
19 | The Song Of The Lamb
4m right of A Senior's Moment and 2m left of Easy Options is a major line on lichenous rock. Take one each of a Camelot #4 and #5.
FA: Chris Baxter & Kieran Loughran (alt. leads), 2001 | 57m, 3 | |||
19 | Easy Options
28 metres left of The Silent Miaow, and left of the centre of the cliff are some steeper, less broken walls before some overhangs. There are a couple of boulders leaning against the right side of the face. Climb up the left side of the boulders to continue up the right-leaning hanging corner line to a ledge on the right. Abseil from a small tree. FA: Wayne Maher & Derek Visser, 1994 | 25m | |||
19 | Buckley's Brigade
This is another major line, 6m right of Easy Options and has a cairn at its base.
FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter (alt. leads) & Tony Maasakkers, 2006 | 50m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Heatherlie Heights | |||||
19 | Freestone
Approximately 30m right and uphill of Blue Sky Mining is a small orange corner with a thin pillar in it. Climb this to a bulge. Head left and then up the slab and pillar above. Follow the ramp right to a large ledge. FA: James McIntosh & Wayne Maher, 1998 | 45m | |||
19 | ★★ Together Alone
20m up right of Freestone is a black wall with an orange steak in the middle. Climb the right side of the wall until you can traverse left past the top of the orange streak to the point where the angle relents, then head up. FA: Wayne Maher & James McIntosh, 1998 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Cape Canaveral | |||||
19 | 2001
To reach 2001, walk left from the terrace where the previous routes start. Traverse up left to join Ground Control To Major Tom. FA: Ian Ravenscroft & David Gairns, 1989 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Pine Wall | |||||
19 | Lost Johnnie
At the left end of the cliff there is a section high up with a couple of square cut corners and walls (most visible as you walk up to the cliff). Below these is an orange roof line above slabby rock. Start be low the lowest part of these roofs.
FA: Philip Armstrong & Chris Armstrong, 2004 | 60m, 3 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Lunar Walls | |||||
19 | Mare Crisium
Left arête of buttress 4m right of Blinded By The Moon. Arête past FH to ledge. Move right to parallel thin cracks, up these then back left above bulge to finish up middle of buttress. FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2006 | 20m | |||
19 | Uncle Neil
Three metres right of Michael Collins. Up orange groove and crack through bulge. Up to next bulge, step left and pull through bulge. Take top bulge at seam near right arête. FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2006 | 19m | |||
19 | ★★ Moon Unit
2m left of ZG. Start as for Sea of Tranquility but heads up and right to FH. Up hard wall then twin seams above keeping left of Zero Gravity. A bit contrived. Tracciata: Heath Black FA: adam demmert & Heath Black, 1998 | 20m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Sea of Tranquillity
Thin start with limited protection to break then more hard moves to seam and jugs. Up reachy bulgy wall to rap station on ledge. Thin start with limited protection to break then more hard moves to seam and jugs. Up reachy bulgy wall to rap station on ledge. FA: Heath Black & adam demmert, 1998 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Lichen Land | |||||
19 | Cyclone Zoe
A relatively serious and dirty undertaking up a prominent line. On the lower section of the upper cliff are two prominent diagonal lines. CZ takes the right hand one.
FA: Steve Hamilton & Chris Baxter (alt), 2003 | 40m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Hardenbergia Rocks | |||||
18/19 | Suspect Device
More nice face climbing. The upper half is a bit hard to protect. Takes the left side of the wall around left of Stiff Little Fingers, starting behind the prominent small pinnacle left of SLF. Follow the series of cracks about two metres tight of the arête, then the scooped face above and slightly left (#1 flexible Friend towards the top). FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremey Maddox, 2003 | 18m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Breakfast Room Buttresses | |||||
19 | The Garden of Tears
Major buttress 70m left of Marmalade with a substantial tree at half height (landmark). Needs care with pro above tree. Crack in the middle of the face to horizontal break. Right to tree. Up and left to next break. Finish up left side of headwall. Belayed descent from pinnacle. FA: Chris Baxter & Stephen Hamilton, 2003 | 25m | |||
19 | I Wish I Was In Dixie
Sustained climbing up a good seam. Reach over the overhang as for Dixie’s Girl but then continue straight up thin crack & seam above. FA: Philip Armstrong & Michael Green, 2006 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Currajong Rocks | |||||
19 | Bogan Buster
Sustained. Crack in middle of wall right of pinnacle. FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns & Stephen Hamilton, 2002 | 16m | |||
19 | Light of Day
Excellent, steep climb up front of pinnacle at left end of upper cliff. Start in corner behind conifer. Go up right to foot of crack. Steeply up this and easier line above. Belay for descent. FA: Stephen Hamilton, Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 2002 | 20m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Lower Heavens | |||||
19 | Exorcist
Climb the undercut arete on the right side of the face 5m right of Judas Escargot. Then move left, and climb up the pale streak to the top. FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue & andrew webb, 1993 | 35m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range The Tim Tams | |||||
19 | Death By Chocolate
25m left of Strictly Ball-tearer is a north-facing brown wall with a cave at its left end. Climb up the V-groove to a ledge, then head up the right wall. FA: Wayne Maher, andrew webb & Glen Donohue, 1993 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Main Face | |||||
19 | Cox's Orange
An audacious arete about 10m right of Valencia. Climb the gully to gain the arete from the left side. Head up and rightwards to gain the arete proper and follow it with dramatic positions and only occasional trad runners. Tracciata: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1989 | 40m | |||
19 | Steph And The Boys
Strenuous jamming. The crack in the centre of the orange wall to the right of the prominant prow (Cox's Orange?). 1. 18m The crack to the large ledge. 2. 14m Up the wall and through the roof to belay the bird poo. 3. 14m To exit, step down and traverse rightwards down and across the wall to the rock in the gully. Tracciata: John Pawson & Wayne Maher (alt), 1983 | 46m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★★ Wirilda
This classic short mutl-pitch is the most popular route at the crag. A great mix of gritty jugs and exposure. Take a bunch of slings for lassoing the jugs on pitch 1. Starts about 30m right of Triptych, at ground level on the right side of the Descent Chasm at a juggy grey rounded arete. 1. 35m (18) Up for 10m, step right then back left to surmount a smooth bulge. Up keeping to the left. Finish via a crack in the smooth wall just right and below a bush on the belay ledge. 2. 35m (19) Up ramp right to BR. Traverse 3m right to arete and up ramp diagonally left (as for Infinite Sadness). At top of ramp, step left to hanging prow which is followed direct to the top. Stay on steepest part of headwall for best climbing and pro. FA: Pitch 1 - Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1989 FFA: Pitch 2 - Keith Lockwood, 1996 | 70m, 2, 1 | |||
19 | ★★ La Petite Mort
Amazing wall climbing on the second pitch. Bring slings and a full rack. 1. 40m (16) Start up Flying Feeling and move further right (8m in total) to the next crack. Up crack and prow then left and up past tree to base of mighty headwall. 2. 40m (19) Blast straight up the outstanding overhung headwall finishing just right of vague prow. Gear is spaced on this pitch. FFA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt) & Jane Wilkinson, 1988 | 80m, 2 | |||
19 | La Petite Mort - Big 0 Start
A tree-free start that evens out the pitches on this classic route. Start on top of the highest flake right of the original start. Surmount the overhang (crux), step right then face directly to join crack and first belay of La Petit Mort. FFA: Dayle Gilliatt & Anthony Pattison, 1997 | 40m | |||
19 | ★★★ Die Young Direct Finish
A better more direct finish - the natural line. From first belay continue as for Die Young but tend left to large chickenhead (ignore traverse right). Steeply overhanging groove to more chickenheads then wide groove to ledge. FFA: Greg Aimer & Dave Brasch (alt), 1994 | 40m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Summit Track Wall | |||||
19 | ★ Nova
| 30m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Schroeders Cliff | |||||
19 | ★ Siamese Corner
Orange corner with blocky roof about 6m left of 'Prison Camp'.
FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schmidt, 2001 | 35m, 2 | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Asses Ears Southern Face | |||||
19 | Twice Shy
| 43m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags Right Hand Crag | |||||
19 | Launch the Lifeboats
| 25m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Cherub Wall | |||||
19 | Sterile Desire
| 30m | |||
19 | Charabin
| 12m | |||
19 | ★ Steely Span
| 26m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Joey Blocks | |||||
19 | Crackorama
Up crack right of NW | 7m | |||
19 | Sort-ed
Small corner 2 metres left of second main corner. Line fades as it curves right to final bulges | 10m | |||
19 | Where Do You Draw the Line?
Mantel just right of slabby corner. RB. Up to corner and up to pillar. Finish as for LU. | 15m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Asses Ears Area Conifer Wall | |||||
19 | Our Little Secret
| 14m | |||
Australia Victoria North West Grampians The Black Range Black Ian's Rocks | |||||
19 | Crime Story
3m right of 'DIBEAPCP'[12978997]. Belay bolts service this climb, which are around 5 metres back from the top of First Offence. FA: david singleton & Ant Keilig | 10m | |||
19 | Shoot On Sight
| 10m |