Vie in Africa del grado selezionato

Avoids the crux of 'Thoko' to the left

14,16

Tower with a great view

Great way to access Watersports and N in M. 1st pitch is trad and has better gear than it looks from below. 2nd pitch is sport. 3rd pitch is easy but runout with 2 bolts only.

3 Bolt slab and bulge. Fun.

3 bolt fun short route with tricky final pull

First route on the left. A good introduction to slab climbing.

Friction climbing to get under a small roof, then traverse to the left using a small ledge line, then follow the obvious natural line to the top.

Start on the right at the overlap. Sport.

Climb the steep face into the scoop and over the bulge, then easy friction to the anchor.

Boulder move to start the climbing, but then up the easy face to the little roof and over. Friction to the anchor.

Belay bolt in the middle of the three routes

The climb is situated just to the right of the Eierkrantz buttress, between Snowflake and Wafer Crack. When looking at the face from below there is an orange scar at the bottom left. Just right of the top of the orange scar there are two prominent cracks going to the top of the face, the left one stopping just short of the top. The climb follows the left hand crack about halfway and then the right hand crack to the top.

1. Scramble up to the ledge where Snowflake starts. Easy if you choose the right line but rope up if in doubt. Start by scrambling up diagonally left to below some roofs. Traverse right on a ledge and another difficult move gets you to easier ground.

2. 23m (15) Start behind the tree on the left. There is a small cave just left of it. Climb up just right of the recess behind the tree to a small roof and a big rail. Traverse right for 5m and then diagonally left up to a grassy ledge.

3. 28m (13) From the right hand side of the ledge there is a crack leading up, climb this for 6m past one hard move with a good small cam. Traverse right on a good ledge for 5m. Further up the face there is a right facing open book. Climb towards this (this part is easy but pretty run-out). Climb the open book to a good ledge behind a block.

4. 26m (12) Traverse left into the left crack and climb it to a small stance on a block on the right-hand side of the crack at a point where the crack becomes vegetated and very overhanging.

5. 32m (13) Traverse right (exposed) for 9m until just before the right crack and then up to a ledge.

6. 29m (11) Climb up and out at the short chimney at the top. Scramble to top.

Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. The left crack is climbed by 'Groothoek Chimney'. 'Black Eagle Crag' follows a line up the right crack and then on the face between the cracks.

The start is in a vegetated crack leading to some large overhangs in the centre of the Chevron, 15m right of 'Groothoek Chimney'.

1. (27m 12) Climb the crack to a point 3m below the overhangs.

2. (21m 10) Traverse right on obvious line to corner for 15m. Climb blocks on corner to a large ledge on the right. Belay on big tree.

3. (45m 16) Climb the steep ramp on the left side of the large ledge. At the top of the ramp traverse slightly left to a narrow overhanging face. Climb the face and the chimney above. When the chimney closes move out onto the left face (awkward) and climb up to comfortable ledge with a tree in the chimney on the right of the face.

4. (40m 14) Traverse left on the ledge, move down to pass a block. After the block continue diagonally up left to a detached block. Stand on the block and do a pull-up to break through the small overhang. Continue up to a series of comfortable ledges.

5. (27m 16) Climb diagonally right to an orange face.

6. (24m 13) Climb diagonally left and traverse on a hand-rail under the roof. Move into 'Groothoek Chimney' and climb this to the top.

Variations:

(Pitch 1, 17): Right of crack of pitch 1 there is another crack with overhanging roof. Climb this moving out left at top.

(Pitch 1, 17): Start behind tree between the two cracks. Climb the face.

(Pitch 6, 20): There is a break in the middle of the overhang right at the tip of the Eiffel Tower.

About 10m left of Angelica is a small buttress against the main face about 10m high. Start in the corner between the buttress and the main face on the left side of the buttress.

1. 45m (13) From the top of the buttress, follow a faint crack that starts just left of the buttress to a small overhang (6x1m). Pass the overhangs on the right and continue up to a ledge belew a short 2m wide roof with a small tree on the left. (There is an optional belay ledge about halfway up this pitch).

2. 10m (12) From the right of the ledge continue up corner. To a small square ledge below a piton.

3. 40m (15) Climb the corner until a point before it becomes overhanging. Traverse right on good ledges to the nose and then diagonally left to top.

Note: The climb can be done in two pitches by scrambling to the top of the buttress (easy on the right) and then combining pitches 1 and 2.

The route is 70m to the right of 'Chanel Crack' in a corner formed by a step in the face. The vegetation has discouraged subsequent parties.

Scramble to a ledge beneath a small roof, pull through roof off crimps to easy climbing to the right, follow vertical seam to top.

Start to the right of chimney, climb diagonally right up obvious line to ledge, traverse left under overhanging section into chimney. Climb to top. Stance at tree.

Climb the obvious diagonal slab and rail left under the left hand side of the roof to a small ledge with trees. Continue more or less straight up to the top of the crag.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

1. 12m 15 Climb up a crack 3m right of the obvious corner under a huge roof. Traverse right into a cubbyhole and then continue right for a few more meters to a large ledge with a great view of the river.

2. 15m 15. Climb a cool corner and head straight up to a convenient abseil tree.

15m left of Big Fig. From the 2m high ledge climb up the crack system to the left of two wide cracks. 4m up then step left to a fist jam, up trending right to a short orange arete at the top.

Start 2 meters left of Big Fig Direct. Climb up on loose looking blocks for 5 meters then diagonally right to the tree. Keep left of the tree using it where necessary. Strait up in crack above tree to convenient belay and ab tree.

Starts at the foot of the first scramble up the gulley. Pitches 1+2 and 4+5 can be combined.

This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree. Pitch 1 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.

Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Start around the corner from Scorpion. Climb the obvious crack for 4 meters then traverse right into a shallow corner. Continue following the crack and move under and past the bulge. Climb the off-width crack to a big platform. From the platform go left and do three well protected moves to gain the easy but runout slab. Continue up to the anchors on the second pitch of Scorpion.

This line is the first sport route to the summit of Ngopane, taking three pitches up the eastern arete.

1. (16, 35m): Start on the very thin, low-angle slab at the base of the eastern arete to bigger holds after the third bolt. Follow the undulating terrain to the first stance.

2. (12, 18m): Move up from the stance, then right to the arete to the comfortable ledge.

3. (14, 50m): Pull the thin move off the ledge to easier ground above until you reach a second ledge. Pull a bulge on good holds, then move up and right to the summit ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit anchors.

Descent: Abseiling twice (from the top of third and second pitches) with two 50m ropes will get you to the ground - just!

The conical mass comprising the tower is split about two-third of the way up by a well-defined grassy ledge which divides the climb into two separate portions. Viewed from the East, the monotony of the horizontal slabs is seen to be broken by two vertical cracks - one towards the right on the lower section and one almost on the left ridge of the section. The route generally follows these cracks except for a deviation, onto the left-hand face near the top of the lower crack below the grass ledge.

1. 21m (E2) Start on face to left of crack and proceed straight up over horizontal ledges.

2. 12m (E1) A short chimney leads to a grass ledge below a chockstone.

3. 15m (E2) Ascend chimney to a higher grass ledge. Proceed to the right of the main chimney over a face broken with horizontal cracks.

4. 21m (E3) Dassie traverses to the left for about 3m, then proceed upwards to a stance immediately below a series of overhangs. A traverse to the right from this point to rejoin the main crack bypasses the overhangs and a further short ascent leads to a stance on top of some prominent blocks.

5. 12m (F2) There is a delicate take-off to the left of a large flake. Further ascent in the main crack leads to a ledge below the final overhangs marking the last barrier to the grass ledge.

6. 30m (F3) Traverse to the left in an extremele exposed position then delicately ascend a face to a point immediately below the main grass ledge and about 18m horizontally to the left of the main crack. A pull-up over a small overhang completes this section.

7. 21m (E3) The route follows the left esction of the chimney straight up for about 18m where a step across is taken to the right and the ascent continues to the right of a narrow crack where a stance is availabl below an overhang.

8. 12m (F3) A tricky take-off into the crack on the left which is then followed to a ledge above which two further cracks, about 3m apart, split a massive block. The one on the left is probably the easier of the two but is a hard pull-up.

9. 14m (E3) Pass through the "worm hole" leading to a block which is traverse to the right. thence up a crack. A traverse to the left, ascent of three short recesses, a further short traverse back to the right and a climb to the top of a huge chockstone brings the climber to a point immediately above the last belay.

10. 21m (E1) An easy traverse to the left extends to the outer ridge of the tower. Here the route proceeds up a crack about 5m in height lying back from the outer buttress and leads to a stance on a block from which the summit section is visible.

11. 18m (E3) Traverse to the right to the final column of rock, where a pull-up leads to a ledge passing round to the right in a very exposed position from which the grass ledge is visible vertically beneath. This traverse lands the climber on a grass ledge below a crack from which an adequate belay can be given.

12. 30m (D) The final pitch is virtually a scramble to the summit taking a route tending to the right.

1km east of the Zimbabwe climb one can see a ver prominent V-shaped rock formation, centered by a huge dome. Running up the right-hand flank of the “V” one can see a number of open book shaped cracks. Counting the very first small open book, the climb starts to the right at the bottom of the seventh, the last open book shaped crack. Viewed from close range, one can see a black streak running down the right-hand side of the open book.

1. 20m (F2) 15m up open book and traverse 3m left and up to tree belay.

2. 25m (F1) Start face to left of crack. Climb to good ledge under yellow overhangs (two mantleshelfs). Dassie crawl right along ledge for 4m. Ascend crack 3m. Ledge and piton belay.

3. 40m (F2). Climb chimney and step out left to ledge. Ascend corner directly above and follow crack to just under grass ledge, make delicate right-hand traverse and up to tree belay.

4. 35m (F1) Climb up centre of grey face to piton and flake belay under overhangs.

5. 20m (F3 A2) Walk 8m to right and ascend short chimney to upper overhangs. Move through overhangs (A2) (one piton left in place). Follow crack to tree belay.

6. 30m (E3) Walk right along ledge past yellow boulder to crack and ascend crack to ledge and belay.

7. 25m (E3) Climb crack and chimney to neck.

8. 25m (E3) Ascend centre of face 29m and scramble to top.

1. 20m (F2) Scramble up bushy ramp. Start in left corner. 2m up step to the right. Climb to ledge. Continue up open book until it is possible to move out to the left.

2. 40m (F2) Climb face above to roof. Traverse right and up to ledge.

3. 40m Walk left below huge roof.

4. 45m (E3) Climb diagonally right across face.

5. Scramble 50m up and right into original recess line.

6. 40m (F3) Climb recess. Place chock high up, climb down 2m and traverse right. Ascend face to ledge. Chimney to top.

7. 50m Walk left.

8. 90m (E3) Climb diagonally right to top.

The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.

1. 30m (F2+) Start at the base of a crack and corner and climb straight up the crack. Climb up as high as possible, then traverse to the left onto the face. Move up and traverse to the right to an obvious ledge.

2. 24m (F3 A2) Climb diagonally upward, passing over a small overhang, for 20m until stopped by an overhanging rock. Traverse to the right underdeath (sic) this rock to a recess and an overhanging crack. Climb the crack (A2) to easier rock and a small stance. It may be advisable to divide this pitch into two to reduce rope-drag.

3. 40m (F1) Traverse right, move up to ledge, then traverse left and climb through overhanging rock bearing slightly left, to a large ledge below a grey open book recess.

4. 20m (F2) Climb the open book recess to a grass ledge, then traverse right to a tree belay.

5. 40m (E2) Climb up through easy rock bands, bearing slightly left to reach the top. Walk off left along a large grass ledge.

The route goes up the prominent buttress unofficially called Frugal Kop, about halfway between the campsite and Hanglip. When leaving the campsite, take the road going to the left just before the first gate, walk through a little stream and carry on, passing another gate. The road peters out a the foot of the buttress. The fence bends to the left, heading straight up to a little buttress against the rock face. From this, the route goes straight up the prominent crack with overhangs going out to the right, then up a thinning crack and finally through large blocks at the top of the face.

1. 20m (E2) Climb a recess just to the right of the little buttress, going left at the top.

2. 15m (F3 A1) Climb past a tree into a crack to a handrail going out ot the right. Hand-traverse out to the right around the corner (3m). Use two aid moves (one piton) to get up the vertical crack to reach a large stance.

3. 40m (F3) Climb a chimney up to an overhang. Follow the overhang out to the right by climbing immediately under it. At the end of the overhang, move up an open book to a ledge and continue diagonally to the left to a large ledge with trees.

4. 30m (E3) Move around an awkward bulge by jamming in one knee for balance, to reach a tree on the right. Climb straight up a recess to a large ledge with rees.

5. 30m (F1) Scramble up 5m to a large free-standing block, with a chockstone wedged between the block and the face (belay from here). Climb up between the block and the face, going slightly to the left up to overhangs, then up to the right to a ledge. Climb straight up to a prominent chockstone wedged in a crack. Work up behind the chockstone to a ledge with trees and continue slightly to the left to the top.

Free Variation:Climb up a recess 5m to the left of the fence.

1. 20m (F2) Climb the recess to a ledge above.

2. 15m (G1) Climb past a tree into a crack. Do a delicate move where the crack narrows then do a pull-up onto a ledge. Continue up main route from this point.

The climb goes up a recessed crack with a prominent hanging bush halfway up on the first buttress to the right of Hanglip. The climb starts to the left of Born Free and directly beneath the hanging bush. (Beacon).

1. 20m (D) Scramble up a recess to a ledge above.

2. 20m (F2) To the right-hand side of a little white streaked amphitheater are a few boulders with a tree growing out horizontally. From the top of the boulders climb a recess to a small stance below a tree.

3. 15m (F3 A2) Climb up and through the tree then continue up alternatively using aid. Enter a cubby-hole and move past a tree to a stance.

4. 30m (F2) Chimney up to a loose flake then traverse right 3m onto an exposed face. Climb a crack in the face and continue diagonally right to the bottom of the chimney with the hanging bush.

5. 12m (F3 A1) Ascend the chimney then using aid in the final 3m make a hanging belay below a little overhang in the roof.

6. 20m (F3 A3) Semi hand-traverse left 3m then straddle up to a footrail. Move back to below the roof and up to where a good wedge can be placed in a vertical crack. Aid out on the roof and continue with difficulty up to a stance at the start of a recessed chimney.

7. 40m (F1) Continue up the chimney to a stance on top of a chockstone.

8. 40m (F1) Climb past a chockstone at the back then out of the cave. Ascend a few boulders and climb past or over a bush into the continuation of the chimney. Climb up the left side then traverse out on a ledge beneath a narrow crack. Climb out at the end and continue to the top.

Start 5m to the left of green barked tree at foot of main recess.

1. 20m (F2) Climb recess with awkward pull-up take-off. Climb through exit under block to tree belay.

2. 25m (F3 A1) Climb short face 4m to right of recess. Traverse into recess and climb same, using one sling aid at small overhang. Continue to cave and tree belay.

3. 30m (F2 A1) Mantleshelf to big ledge above cave. Continue to ledge with loose flakes. Using two aid moves, climb overhanging recess. Continue up recess to chockstones in deep recess.

4. 15m (F3) Climb bottomless recess to ledge and chock belay.

5. 25m (F2) Chimney past overhanging block and continue to cave-like stance.

6. 20m (F2) Chomney recess above. Continue left via tree to stance.

7. 30m (F3 A1) Ascend recess using two étrier moves. Continue via very narrow and awkward chimney-type recess to tree belay on left of recess, after crawling under a huge block.

8. 20m (F2) Ascend a few steps and mantleshelf onto a block. Traverse right to start of exit recess. Climb to top.

The climb goes up a recessed crock and chimney system on a buttress 50m to the right of Born Free. Scramble up to ledge below big overhang (20m above).

1. 15m (F1) Climb a crack past a tree to big detached block and ledge.

2. 15m (F2 A1) Ascend the crack 5m, then aid up to a hanging tree, continue up left to a stance, long ledge.

3. 20m (F2) Climb the recessed crack on the right, move slightly left on a ledge then up a chimney to a cubby-hole.

4. 15m (F2 A2) Chimney up at first then traverse right under a roof. Aid up over difficulties and continue 5m to stance.

5. 23m (F3 A1) Aid up 3m then move strenuously up to a chockstone. Climb past the chockstone and continue to a tree in the chimney.

6. 18m (F2) Chimney up 3m then traverse right to beneath chockstones. Climb past the chockstones and continue up to top of another big chockstone.

7. 25m (F2+) Chimney out to the right then awkwardly to gain a ledge. Climb up beneath a tree then continue up the chimney to a large chockstone. Traverse left into darkness, then climb up to upper cave.

8. 25m (F1) Traverse right 3m and do two mantleshelves. Continue to the right to a recess which is climbed to the top.

The route follows the big open book on the right-hand side of the rock band leading up to the prominent overhang.

1. 25m (D/E) Scramble to foot of main face.

2. 45m (F2) Climb first crack to right of centre wall to top of loose pillar.

3. 15m (F2 A1) Clim up 2m in corner to small tree. Traverse right, move up one move (A1) and left again (A1). Continue diagonally for 2 moves (A1). Swing left into wide jamming crack and ascend same to stance.

4. 15m (F3) Climb open book to ledge in corner.

5. 23m (F2 A2) Continue up open book to overhanging crack. Mixed A2 and free climbing leads to piton and chock belay below overhangs.

6. 25m (F1+) Climb up to small ledge and traverse about 4m right. Mantleshelf to fairly wide ledge below hanging rock on face. At same level traverse right to below loose rock pillar on right edge of overhangs above. Climb past rock pillar to narrow ledge and stance.

7. 30m (F2 A1) Climb up diagonally left to ledge. Use one aid move to ascend into right recess. Climb recess and use another aid move to gain ledge above. Traverse left around corner to tree and continue to top.

Note: Poor rock is encountered on this route.

The climb is situated on the buttress to the right of Black Sunday (3rd rock band). It starts about 100m to the right of the gully. Take off from a grey block underneath an overhanging recess (beaconed). The upper line has a big grey face on its right.

1. 25m (F3) Straddle crack into narrow awkard cubby-hole. Ascend cubby-hole (crux) to foot of chimney and belay.

2. 30m (E3) Ascend chimney to ledge. Walk diagonally left to foot of pillar.

3. 25m (F1) Ascend right-hand side of pillar to large cubby-hole just 3m below top of pillar.

4. 20m (E3) Ascend sloping face to tree below crack.

5. 35m (F3) Climb crack to overhang. Chimney up out of roof and climb to stance 4m above.

6. 15m (F2) Climb crack to tree belay.

7. Traverse 30m left to below series of black rounded ledges.

8. 35m (F1) Ascend ledges (yellowwood tree 5m up) and scramble to top.

R. Druschke, E. Druschke (October 1977)

Variation: Begin about 40m to the left of the original start.

1. 40m (F3 A0) Climb chimney, crux after 10m (sling aid). Continue through hole at top. Belay next to overhanging rock.

2. 45m (E3) Follow line to top of pillar and continue along ramp to tree belay.

From here variation joins main route.

E. Müller, H. Seuring (September 1980)

The climb is situated on the tower to the left of Tarantula basically following a prominent crack to the right of Skydiver, which takes the centre line.

1. 12m (F1) Start at beacon. Climb wall of lowest rock band.

2. 15m (F2+) Climb the left edge of the recess with some creepers hanging down for approximately 4m. Move right into open book and climb up past some hanging creepers onto ledge, continue up crack to small ledge with tree and natural eye belay.

3. 15m (F2+) Continue up open book, surmount overhang and up to ledge.

4. 35m (F2) Climb the lay-back type crack to the right of the main crack to tree and continue up main crack to stance.

5. 25m (F3) Ascend crack to just below main overhang. Move directly out and then onto left wall. Stance around corner.

6. 20m (E3) Continue up face and cracks to shoulder of pinnacle.

7. 20m (F1) Climb short face next to right corner (pull-up) and up to top.

The climb starts at the large V on the left half of the Buttress and continues up the center and widest of three cracks running up all the way to the top. These cracks are located in the corner, left of Tarantula.

1. 80m (C/D) Climb and scramble two short rock pitches and grass slopes to base of cracks.

2. 20m (E3) Start in recess formed by centre crack. After 8m, move out left and continue up past tree to stance. (Dassie crawl along ledge and take off from tree to overcome hanging rock.)

3. 30m (F2) Continue up in left-hand side of crack. Rock in rear of crack very loose and brittle at this stage. Move out on face to left where necessary.

4. 20m (F3) Move up very strenuously until a narrow footrail can be reached on left-hand wall of chimney. Move out and back again over block to stance at tree.

5. 30m (F2) After take-off from tree, move left into narrow chimney. A flake on the left wall provides handhold high up. Straddle straight up to large overhang and broad ledge on left.

6. 15m (D) Traverse around left to adjacent narrow crack.

7. 25m (F1) After difficult start in narrow chimney, straddle up to overhang, move out right and back again to stance on wide ledge with big trees.

8. 20m (F2) Continue up left-hand crack past overhanging corner.

9. 30m (F2) Chimney up and clear crack at top by moving left. Scramble to right and to top of krantz.

Goes up the very prominent chimney/crack right of Disillusion and left of Tarantula. Scramble 50m up the grassy recess just left of Tarantula and traverse right to the base of the crack.

1. 25m (F2) Climb up, negotiating an overhang halfway up on the right via a precarious looking block, to a large stance below a narrow chimney.

2. 25m (F2 A2) Climb the chimney past the overhang above using two large nuts for aid. Continue more easily to a comfortable stance in the chimney.

3. 30m (F2) Climb up first on the left and then on the right to the large overhanging slab blocking the recess. Traverse right immediately underneath it to an exposed stance on the arête.

4. 35m (F3) Climb up steeply just left of the arête, moving precariously into a vegetated recess above. Continue easily up this to stance.

5. 20m (E1) Starting in crack to the left, climb to the top.

The climb is situated on a prominent rock pinnacle in front of the rock-fold where the route Tarantula is found. The route follows a crack in the front of the pinnacle for about two-thirds of the way and then continues up the right side of the pinnacle.

1. 8m (F2) Mae a delicate mantleshelf move up a ledge in the front of the pinnacle below the prominent steep crack. Move 1.5m to the right and then ascend a small crack to ledge at start of the main crack.

2. 40m (F3) Ascend crack for 4m past first crux, continue past another difficult section until a bulging crack is reached. To avoid a loose block, traverse onto the right wall for 2-3m, then move up and traverse back on a sloping slab into the crack. Climb the crack -through an overhang - past a small tree and make a stance on a ledge by a deep crack.

3. 25m (F1) Move up the crack to its top, then up wall. Move up an open book recess and continue up wall to a traverse leading to the right, (approx 5m below an overhang - a piton was left above in the corner to the left.) Traverse right to a large ledge on the right-hand side of the pinnacle. Make a stance.

4. 40m (F2) Move around to the right into the first possible crack line. Follow this up and then ascend to the top of the pinnacle. Do not follow the crack between the pinnacle and the main wall.

Decent: Abseil down the right side of the pinnacle (facing the pinnacle from below).

Note: The route was called Happy Landing in honor of a frog who managed to descend the pinnacle in very good style, especially in this age where artificial methods are being questioned, by making one big leap. After being slightly stunned on the ledge at the beginning of the second pitch, he made a delicate traverse to the left and then left up to make the final jump. We took the liberty of calling the pinnacle Amphibian Tower.

1. 23m (F2) From the tree, climb directly up the crack to overhang and then traverse 2m left to tree belay.

2. 20m (E2) Climb up to large cubby-hole, then move to the right from under overhang onto a shelf below groove.

3. 22m (F3) Climb crack for 20m and then traverse left to stance.

4. 25m (E3) Climb chimney above through tree to smooth face with cubby-hole on its left.

5. 25m (F2+) Climb right-hand crack for 4m and then traverse left from under overhang. Continue to deep cubby-hole.

6. 20m (E3) Squeeze through narrow wormhole and climb up past large chockstone to stance.

7. 25m (F1) Climb past chockstone and big block to tree.

8. 30m (F1) Straddle up chimney to big block. Dassie-traverse out left. Mantelshelf 3m from corner to ledge above. Traverse delicately to the right back into gully.

9. (40m) E3 Walk up gully and ascend left-hand crack. Traverse out right and climb chimney to top.

The climb is situated on the left corner of the next rock-fold to the right of Octopus. Start below arch formed by pillar (left).

1. Climb face on the main wall, traverse left and mantelshelf up ledge. Climb prominent crack for approximately 20m to overhang, break out right to ledge.

2. Climb up a few metres then diagonally up left on main face, round corner into chimney and continue up to to block (F2). (Top of pinnacle was climbed after Pitch 1.)

3. Step down and traverse left under overhang into crack (2m). Climb crack to ledge (F3).

4. Walk to crack behind stance and climb same, continue up awkward groove and cracks to a stance (F2). Walk around to the right to a chimney, climb this to big grass ledges. Zig-zag through upper grass and rock bands (F2).

The climb starts below a tree-covered ledge to the left of two large overhangs.

1. 25m (F2) Climb the groove until there is a definite lay-back crack below the ledge. Climb this crack 18m and continue a further 7m onto the ledge to a tree belay.

2. 35m (F2) Climb the obvious crack on the right starting with a rather narrow chimney. Continue upwards past a white block, then past an overhang. The stance is made on a very small but comfortable ledge.

3. 25m (F1) Move to under the overhang, then traverse out left and climb up the edge at the end of the overhang. Move up and then traverse right into a good crack. Climb this and move onto big grass ledge.

4. 20m (F1) Climb up the bulging block, then continue up the crack.

5. 30m (F3) Continue up the crack until only about 2m of the difficulties remain. To avoid these traverse 2m right then move up to a ledge. Continue up past some overhangs to a stance at a tree.

6. 35m (F1) Climb obvious crack route keeping left and make stance at a tree.

7. 20m (F1) Climb the crack directly behind stance, then scramble to the top.

Descend the left-hand gully (Facing the rock), but this is not advisable in the dark.

The climb starts from the left-hand edge of a ledge a few metres up and 10m left of the prominent recess (Split).

1. 15m (F3) Climb rotten looking face (surprisingly sound) then move up into corner. Ascend corner up to overhang, then traverse out left moving onto a ledge. Make a stance at small cubby-hole at start of crack.

2. 30m (F2) Ascend crack above to small ledge at crack marked by some small chockstones.

3. 30m (F2) Continue up crack until the crack becomes less defined. Swing right and move to the top of large flake. Move up a ledge to the left and continue left to a chimney formed by a large block and the main face. Stance on top of chimney and first grass band.

4. Scramble to the base of a large crack around to the left.

5. 90m (F1) Start on right wall, then climb crack, passing a deep hole near the top of the climb.

1. 30m (F1) Ascend grey face 6m to the right of the prominent crack (Split) moving out slightly left after 7m, then right, to a tree. Move up 10m to the tree belay at base of crack of rock pyramid.

2. 30m (E3) Continue up crack and chimney to chock belay.

3. 25m (F2) Move out diagonally right onto front face of the pyramid. Climb face to the top of pyramid belay large overhang above.

4. 35m (F2) Move diagonally right then up to overhang. Traverse left until clear of overhang and continue diagonally left for 5m, and climb face to first grass band.

5. 30m (F3) Climb some horizontal rock bands passing a statue-like rock on the left into a crack. Ascend crack, making a stenuous move through a narrow bottomless chimney. Stance just above on good ledge.

6. 40m (F2) Move into right-hand crack f recess climbing partly on the right-hand wall. Climb through overhanging chimney until it culminates near the top of this second rock band.

7. 40m (E3) Move up to final overhanging band. Traverse right for 12m then break through to second grass band

8. Scramble diagonally right and then left through easy rock to the top.

1. 30m (E3) The start is beaconed. Climb the left-hand side of the recss to a tree about 16m up. Continue up for a further 17m to a small stance with a tree belay.

2. 35m (F2) Continue up the recess to a large stance with a tree belay. Hand-jam up the right-hand side of the crack to the level of a projecting slab. Traverse to the left and then continue up to a large stance with a tree belay. Beware of loose rock.

3. 20m (F1) Climb the right-hand side of the recess, using a narrow wedge move, to reach a large stance with a tree belay.

4. 20m (F2) From the beacon on the stance traverse to the right for 10m to a right-angled crack. Climb straight up the crack for a further 10m, or alternatively climb straight up for 5m, traverse to the left for about 3m on a dassie traverse, move over an exposed drop and climb up and back into the crack. From here walk directly across the grass band to the next recess.

5. 27m (E1) Climb straight up to a tree. Move to the left and continue climbing to a square edged ledge stance.

6. 20m (E3) Climb up the chimney, moving outwards over the overhang. Continue up to a fairly narrow ledge stance with a boulder belay.

7. 25m (F3) Ascend the left-hand side of the recess, then 3m below the overhang traverse to the right-hand side of the recess. Now move up and out to the right to get out of the overhang. Continue a further 7m upwards bearing to the right to a large stance with a tree belay.

8. 10m (F3) Two variations are possible:

   • (F3) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse 2m to the right. Using a knee-jam and hugging pincer-grips, mount a awkward bulge and continue up to a large tree.
   • (F2) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse to the left along the ledge to an open book topped by an overhang. Layback up the open book, swing around to the right and then move up to the tree.

9. 60m (D) Climb to top.

Start at a prominent right-angled corner in the large face to the right of the Prow.

1. 40m (F1) Climb crack to stance 7m below where crack narrows.

2. 25m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m using a peg hand hold. Climb up to a high hand rail (2 pegs). A bathook is used to place a good protection peg to the night. From the bathook hand-traverse and traverse right (10m). Climb (1 peg) to a stance (5m).

3. 30m (F3 A1) Climb 10m then traverse back to chimney (a high peg was used for tension). Climb crack (23m).

4. 16m (F2) Climb chimney and face (a few metres to right).

5. 50m (E2) Up crack and loose blocks.

6. 23m (F1 A1) Up cracks (use a nut) and left to stance.

7. 20m (E1) Climb round corner to left and scramble to top.