Vie in Africa del grado selezionato

This climb starts in the same gully as 'Why Bother!' , but on the right hand side of the gully.

1. [10] 25m

   Climb the obvious recess on the right side of the gully to a good ledge with tree belay.

2. [16] 30m

   Climb the prominent pointed face above the ledge i.e. move slightly left and follow the crack system up the face to a flake. Move up past the flake and continue up easier rock to top of pinnacle. Belay on a good ledge to right of top of pinnacle.

Note:

A pleasant exposed climb on good rock. A further pitch may be added by traversing left for 10m, and following the obvious line to the top (9). Alternatively descend into gully by traversing left further, or scramble directly above the ledge to the top of the cliff face.

About 150m upstream of the second wade pool that is found when entering from the lower end of Tonquani kloof (i.e. Utopia), a small gully is encountered on the true right. A large tree is found at the entrance of the gully.

1. [10] 20m

   Climb the short face on the left (Facing inward) of the gully. Continue up easier rock and traverse left to the base of the prominent square buttress.

2. [15] 20m

   Climb the crack system on the right of the square buttress to a small overhang, pull through the overhang and move right to easier rock. Continue past a good ledge up to a large grassy ledge. Scramble to top.

Walking in from Utopia, this climb starts just downstream of the second large wade pool at the lower end of Tonquani kloof. It starts on the face just downstream of the short descent/ascent to bypass the second wade pool, and climbs the prominent buttress to the top of the cliff face.

1. [15] 30m Start just next to tree at base of short downstream decent/ascent to bypass the second wade pool. Climb diagonally left at first, then straight up to base of large square buttress. Ascend buttress moving to left arete at approximately mid-height. Continue to top of buttress.

Scramble up to the start of 'Gnasher' , and then move about 50m upstream along the ledge. Scramble another 20m up a gully.

1. [16] 30m Climb leftwards to the tree. Sneak past this on the right, then aim diagonally right, crossing the off-width to gain a finger crack. Follow this, stepping right below the flake/pillar. Climb the face right of this for a few meters, then step right onto the pillar. Climb diagonally right, using the hidden hold to sneak onto the little ledge just below the top.

Note:

Loose rock detracts from an otherwise great line.

The objective is the body width crack running up the cliff a few meters downstream of the Tonquani/Cedarberg junction, on the true left-hand side.

1. [15] 30m

   From tree on rock slabs at river level, climb crack and follow it to stance on large blocks.

2. [XX] XXm

   Scramble or climb to top.

This route starts 10m left of 'Grill' .

1. [8] 18m

   Ascend a vague recess with a series of narrow ledges forcing one diagonally right until a 60 to 90 cm wide ledge below an overhang is reached.

2. [15] 15m

   Ascend the break through the overhang at the left end of the ledge. ( 'Grill' passes through a break to the right.)

3. [10] 12m

   A long walk up and left leads to a red open book. Ascend this feature in the corner.

This climb starts in the steep recess 5m to the left of the start of 'The Doppler Effect'.

1. [16] 25m

   Climb up steep overhanging recess for 5m (crux), continue up and traverse right 5m, then continue up easier stepped face to ledge below overhang.

2. [10] 20m

   Moving right continue up face to left of 'The Doppler Effect', finish up off-width crack.

Note:

Protection good on crux (pitch 1), but is sparse higher up.

The climb is about 45m downstream of the junction of Cedarberg with Tonquani Kloof, immediately upstream of a deep recess or cleft in the true left wall of the kloof.

1. [15] 12m

   Up a face on the left of some loose-looking blocks for 8m, then left over these blocks to a stance below a large crack.

2. [13] 25m

   Up the chimney for 3m then traverse to right for 3m then up to large blocks. Variation:

3. [15] ??m

   Continue on up the chimney. When almost at top move out left and make an awkward move over a somewhat bulging face, to reach easier rock and the finish.

Starts 5m to the left of 'Finger Painting the World' .

1. 30m 15 Climb up the corner and into the steep recess above. Climb the recess exiting on the right arete onto a large ledge.

This climb starts about 20m downstream of 'The Doppler Effect'. Ascend a grassy recess, the climb ascends the true left edge of the buttress which forms the left wall of a deep gully ending in a cave roofed by huge crack system.

1. [13] 25m

   Climb the arete moving past a series of small ledges and a tree. Continue up to a good ledge.

2. [15] 25m

   Climb up past a tree on the arete, move left into the prominent corner. Climb the corner. Finish on easier rock to large ledge. Scramble to base of next buttress.

3. [16] 25m

   Climb up easy rock towards twin crack system. Move up to right hand crack via a short face. Ascend crack (crux) to easier rock and good ledge.

Note: A short pleasant un-sustained route.

Scramble 15m up grass band as for 'Hotplate' but deviate right to fallen tree.

1. [8] 15m

   Ascend face in front of tree for 7m then move right along grassy ledge for 18m (bushy belay).

2. [15] 20m

   Ascend corner to right of tree for 3m then enter a cubby hole. Crawl along crack from cubby hole (left) into another cubby hole. Ascend steep face bearing right to a large ledge.

3. [13] 30m

   Ascend corner for 3m then move right around corner continuing up crack leading towards a prominent chimney. Ascend chimney moving out right at the roof.

Note: Whole climb is on very clean rock.

This climb is situated about 50m downstream of 'The Doppler Effect' and starts about 10m downstream of the climb 'Dream of White Lycra' , which climbs up the right hand side of the huge chimney/recess.

1. [15] 30m

   Climb the recess to the tree. Continue up to another ledge. Climb the steep recess with a flake on the right. Continue up easier ground to good ledge and tree belay.

2. [16] 30m

   Climb the recess to the left of the narrow chimney/crack. Continue up a crack before traversing right to the ledge at the top of chimney-crack. Climb recess above this (crux). Continue up steep rock with good holds tending slightly left.

3. [13] 20m

   Climb recess between two faces using a layback move on a large block.

The route follows the obvious open book left of 'Jack the Ripper' . Scramble up to the ledge mentioned under 'Oedipus Sunday' and 'Jack the Ripper' .

1. [13] 30m

   Ascend easy rock to the open book, narrow chimney, climb up to large ledge passing a small overhang near the top. Climb wall above to a large ledge on the front of a pinnacle.

2. [15] 35m

   Climb to the top of the pinnacle and ascend the wall behind. Mantle shelf onto a ledge to gain the obvious crack lapped by an overhang above, ascend crack/recess passing the overhang on the right.

The climb follows the subsidiary buttress just to the left of that of 'Kamikaze' and then continues up a prominent red corner to the top.

1. [13] 25m

   Start up the shallow chimney 3m left of the start of 'Kamikaze' , and mentioned as a variation start to the latter climb. From the tree 13m up move diagonally left into a shallow open book and climb this (crux) to a stance in a small cave.

2. [10] 15m

   Traverse left for 6m to the arete and then climb straight up to a stance on the edge of a large terrace.

3. [15] 20m

   Walk to the back of the terrace and climb the prominent steep red corner to a ledge.

4. [13] 20m

   Continue up the corner to the top.

Starts 4m to the right of 'Crackamania' .

1. [16] 15m

   Follow wide crack system to ledge.

2. [15] 15m

   Climb flake above into corner, and around small overhang to top.

No description!

No description!

Starts of a ledge just before reaching the bottom of the descent gully.

1. [15] 25m Climb the right hand end of the face to the break in the steep rock near the top. A good jug can be used to pull through the final moves.

No description!

No description!

Takes the prominent upstream facing corner.

1. [15] 25m Climb past some blocks to reach the good looking corner above. Follow this to the top.

Starts about 50m right of the bolted routes where the face steps back to provide a downstream facing corner. A 2.5m roof lies right of the corner about 20m up. 2 Pitches.

This climb starts upstream of the descent gully near the upper campsite, on the true right of the kloof. It starts in the recess 8m downstream of 'Difficult Shapes and Passive Rhythms' .

1. 22m 15 Climb the recess/chimney. Finish through the crack on the left.

The downstream facing open book to right of recess about 10m downstream of 'Callisto Crack' .

1. 35m 16 Climb the open book moving through bulge at top.

Variation:

1. 35m 16 Climb the open book until about 2/3 of the way to the top; Traverse right on rail and top out in the grove close to the arête. (Nov 2012 Dickie Talma,PW Nel,Wesley Black)

1. 20m 15 Ascend the crack and face on the right hand side of the buttress with the Mountain Club of South Africa signboard below the crag at the top of Cedarberg. Climb a short crack system. Move right onto a ledge. Pull through the steep face above.

The meeting place at the upper end of Cedarberg is an alcove formed by two rock walls meeting at a right-angle.

1. [10] 10m

   Starts on the extreme left (downstream) corner of the left hand wall, and follow the easy scramble usually ascended to place top-ropes on other routes, stancing on the half-height ledge at the top of 'Riders on the Storm' .

2. [15] 10m

   Moves right onto the on-angle face left of the second pitch of 'Strange Days' , and follow the polished, right-leaning water-grove to the top. The second pitch requires contortion and supplety unusual for the grade.

About 10m left of 'Riders on the Storm' a break can be seen with an obvious layback about 10m up.

1. 20m 16 Climb the break to the top of the crack.

The climb starts approximately 20m downstream of 'Torch Route' , in a 90° corner directly opposite the large waterfall below 'Grey Gully' .

1. [15] 10m

   Commence in a corner (beacon) with a narrow chimney wedged with large chockstones. Climb 5m to surmount the chockstones and then move left and climb the short sloping right hand face to the belay ledge (crux).

2. [15] 18m

   Facing downstream, climb 1m on the right hand face to a triangular ledge using a one-finger pull-up (crux) then climb the sloping overhanging corner crack (crux) to a cubbyhole. From the back of the cubbyhole climb the crack to the right of a large tree branch, which touches the face, to a 1m wide ledge.

3. [15] 12m

   From the right hand side of the ledge climb the slight recess for 4m, move left and climb the left hand corner of the free standing buttress to the top, exiting at the left (crux - no holds).

Note:

A good climb with adequate protection.(Previous editors note: It sounds a bit desperate for 15.)

Start well upstream of 'Naughty Daughter' opposite sandy clearing at foot of waterfall. Cairn.

1. [15] 30m

   Climb obvious right slanting groove then trend up and left on good holds to large platform and tree belay.

2. [11] 8m

   Exit via groove on right hand side of ledge.

Start upstream from 'Twist and Shout' , immediately above the worm-hole descent.

1. [15] 20m

   Climb the right hand crack topped by an overhang, hand-traverse left from under overhang to a ledge. Straight up a crack to easy ground and tree belay. Scramble up to next rock band.

2. [13] 20m

   Climb a chimney which slants left. Then climb through an obvious recess.

Starts some 10-12m upstream of 'Golden Pitcher Crag' and finishes up the Golden Pitcher.

1. [13] 14m

   Climb diagonally left 5m up slight recess to ledge. Climb face above to ledge.

2. 12m 15 About 3m up crack just to right of trees, 3m layback to cubby hole, 3m up overhanging rock using good grips. Move 0,5m left to seat below broad overhang. Traverse right to broad ledge using small tree as handhold, followed by a dassie traverse.

3. 9m 5 Climb on to large block. Traverse right 6m to stance at bottom of cubby hole.

4. 9m 15 Ascend overhanging crack to leave cubby hole, using small holds on left hand side. Tree belay. Scramble 6m to base of "pitcher".

5. 12m 7 Climb open book to broad ledge below "pitcher".

6. 9m 15,A1 A shoulder or aid enables leader to reach small tree in crack. Make for second tree in cleft in centre of "pitcher".

7. 12m 7 Ascend to top of "pitcher" from far side. The descent to the base of the "pitcher" on this side involves further grade 7 climbing.

1. [15] 15m Start some 9m to right of normal start. Move diagonally left 5m up easy rock to ledge below overhanging mantelshelf. Using small finger holds and a layback, mount mantelshelf. Move diagonally up left across fluted face to stance mentioned above.

Other variations consist of a grade 10 route which makes use of a root to the left of the original 15 route, or a direct ascent of a tree.

About 15m upstream from 'Church Window' is an easily seen small cave about 10m above the stream. To the right of it and slightly lower is another cave. The climb starts on the right side of this.

1. [15] 18m

   After a slightly overhanging takeoff, move 2m left to a fault. Climb this, then step left into an open book and after an awkward move, ascend it to a ledge with a large block leaning against the face.

2. [15] 22m

   Starting just left of the leaning block, climb on slightly loose holds up to a small overhang about 7m up. Move 2m left on an excellent handrail across a gap to easier rock. Ascend 4m then move left onto a flat face with good holds. Climb this to ledge.

3. [11] 12m

   Take obvious route up rough face with rounded holds to the top.

Commences on the ridge immediately downstream of 'Labyrinth' recess. An inverted V ending in a very narrow crack like an inverted funnel - to the right of the prominent red overhangs and about 25m above stream - forms a very good landmark. Two large trees locate the bottom pitch.

1. [13]25m

   Starting a few meters to the left of the lower tree, the route ascends diagonally upwards to the left over a series of steps to about 8m above the stream. Thence upwards to a few meters below the sloping face forming the inverted V. Then traverse to the right to a small stance on the corner about 2m below the right edge of the inverted V. The belay is through an eye through the rock on the corner. The right hand edge of the eye is a "loosish" rock but the belay is good.

2. [16] 15m

   Commence by climbing the right hand edge of inverted V as close to overhang as possible, for 5m then traverse to left hand side of V. The ascent continues up the left hand red face to the top of the inverted V. Up to this point the climbing is delicate. Care is necessary to avoid loose rock. Good belay available on ledge on left at top of inverted V.

3. [11] 22m

   Straight up face to immediately left of chimney leading up from stance. Good typical Cedarberg holds.

4. [6] 25m

   The final pitch is mild and many routes may be chosen.

Note:

From third stance a series of fascinating tunnels will be seen. One of these forms a gash parallel to the face just climbed. It is possible to chimney down this tunnel to the bottom 9m below. A second tunnel curves down towards the right and may be descended to join Labyrinth route. It is possible to girdle the crag by means of a traverse across the face and ascend at corner.

About 80m downstream from 'Straight Jerry' . Starts at downstream end of a long shelf of rock about 2m above water level immediately adjacent to a long narrow pool.

1. [10] 14m

   Climb up a recessed corner to a small ledge.

2. [15] 22m

   Climb a few meters up on the left to a smooth sloping slab from which the left end of a ledge can be reached. This ledge is then followed to the right. (Alternatively, from top of first pitch climb diagonally to the right over alternating smooth slabs and low overhangs to the same spot.)

3. [6] 18m

   Various routes to the top are possible.

About 50m down-stream from the upper meeting spot, the true left wall of the kloof comes down to the stream, forming a large, broken buttress. On the upstream face of this buttress, near the up-hill end, there is a shallow crack with rounded lips – it is on the left end of the grey face to the left of OBELIX.

1. 20m 16 Climb this on small gear until the crack terminates, then step right onto a ledge, before scrambling up the final summit block.

Start about 10m downstream of GREY GULLY (Times Gully) where there is a mostly detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is an obvious crack/recess on the downstream side of the column between the column and the main face.

1. 30m 16 Start at a shallow overhang (1.5m high) to the left of the main crack. Climb through the overhang on short but sharp holds to a ledge with scallops (4m 16). Move right and ascend the crack to the top of the column (Grade eases to 10). Climb the overhang on massive holds and move right and up to a very large ledge (exit left of Twins Gully).

Note:

It is very probable that the main crack between the column and the buttress has been climbed before as it is very obvious.

Start about 25m upstream of the main water-fall, opposite smaller waterfall (detached column of rock on front-left of buttress).

1. 45m 15 Climb a shallow recess on right side of buttress. Climb diagonally in the recess and crack to some overhangs. Move slightly right and up a crack to a large ledge. Climb up right on arete to top blocks.

Starts about 20m downstream of GREY GULLY (Times Gully) and 10m downstream of a detached column of rock on the front left of the buttress. There is a pronounced recess/chimney which slopes slightly to the right and starts on a 2m wide ledge which is reached by scrambling up 5m to the right.

1. 15m 14 Start immediately to the right of the tree (on the left of the same tree is HIGH JINKS). Ascend the crack into the recess and climb up the right corner of the recess until blocked by large chockstones. Move right by using small but rough footholds on the face and up and around to the ledge.

2. 30m 16 Grovel and grot for 12m to the bottom of a corner to the right side of the arete in HIGH JINKS. Hand jam up the crack 2m to the right of the corner. After 3m move left into the corner and then up on good holds until a prominent nose is reached. Move left and onto the nose and then up easy rock on the left of the arete to the top blocks.

On the true left about 100m downstream of the illegal campsite in the kloof, near the easy descent gully. The route avoids a very obvious roof with a crack/flake going through it at about 10m. This part of the kloof is still flat but from here on downstream it starts to get steep.

1. 25m 16 Climb the corner until under the roof. Traverse out on good jams in the ceiling and sneak around the corner onto mega-jugs. (Good large friend placements.) Doddle on up until you think the climbing has stopped.

On the True Left side, 3m right of THE CRACK, downstream of the wormhole, opposite a good swimming pool is a cave. The route takes the obvious corner and face above at the right hand edge of the cave.

1. 16, 25m Climb the short recess on the right of the cave until able to step across left into the shallow dihedral with finger crack. Climb the dihedral and finger crack to below an overlap. Some fun reachy moves take you through the overlap to a small ledge. Climb the short face on your left to the upper ledge with a comfy tree belay.

Notes:

1. Stick to the face on the left after the mid height ledge, going right is super easy and no fun at all.

Start opposite the wet, vegetated groove of ADRENALIN, 25m upstream of the swimming pool. Scramble up to a tree-filled ledge at 3m.

1. 18m 7 Ascend a large corner on the left for 5m, then traverse right to second tree (or ascend directly to this tree via a shallow groove at 13) Ascend to below the overhang then traverse right 11m to a large tree belay at the right end of a wide ledge.

2. 15m 12 Move back left then traverse 6m left above the overhang to the base of a shallow groove. Ascend the groove to a peg belay in the horizontal break.

3. 12m 12 Pull over the bulge strenuously and then up rightwards into a corner (to the right of the V-groove) and up this to a tree at the top. Scramble up to a large ledge and tree belay. (Or ascend the V-groove and the crack in the right wall at 13)

4. 22m 15 Under the large overhang is a red projecting block and this is used to pass the overhang (right-hand side used on MATERNITY COUCH). Move up a few metres then traverse left and up to the top of an obvious nose. Up rightwards and past a sapling (Ed Note: That was in 1967!) to belay on the right.

5. 30m 12 Move across right, across the chimney of MATERNITY COUCH and the face then continue up the rib, and directly up the pinnacle front on huge jugs.

Starts from the broad ledge on true right hand side, halfway down FROG GULLY (i.e. the ledge from which the main pitch of MATERNITY COUCH starts). Start adjacent to tree (cairn).

1. 20m 15 Ascend red rock, with loose-looking flakes, to tree. Step right and continue up to small roof. Make a long stride left under roof onto slab and ascend obvious corner to broad ledge with small tree.

2. 30m 11 Follow obvious recess above, past a pillar on the left, to a smooth scoop. Step out right, gain top of large detached flake on the left and so to the top. A good "end-of-the-day" route.

Starts on the true right of FROG GULLY just above the scramble. At this height, a large ledge extends to the left (looking down).

1. 25m 15 Climb easily up slab to reach 2 holes through the rock. A tricky move above this gains access to the top of the pinnacle. Step left over chimney onto steep, undercut face with mega jugs. Climb upwards. Either step left into chimney (opening party) or venture onto thin face above.

On the right side of FROG GULLY (facing up) and approximately 6m to the left of the cave (with old stretcher) can be seen an open book running the height of the cliffs. The open book starts approximately 5m up.

1. 25m 15 Climb the open book using crack in back to second large tree.

2. 20m 11 Follow the continuation crack/groove to top.

About 30m downstream from the main swimming pool there is a shallow cave about 25m above the stream bed partially hidden by much foliage. Scramble to the cave - the crack directly below provides the best climbing (20m).

1. 20m 11 Start in the cave and climb up to a small triangular ledge 5m from the cave floor near the outer edge of the downstream wall of the cave and thence over a chockstone to a belay on the ledge above it. This is a variation to the original route (THE JERRY) which goes around the corner of the downstream wall of the cave and up the face to the same ledge.

2. 15m 15 Climb recess and overhang to ledge above.

3. 25m 6 From this point it is possible to scramble out to the top or alternatively climb out on various variations on the big arete on the left.

Starts 9m downstream from the big block which marks the start of RANA, on the left-hand side facing downstream. The route goes up into a large obvious rock arch.

1. 23m 12 Ascend series of short ramps on face 15m to a large ledge. Traverse left up to a large tree belay for 8m. Traverse right into corner.

2. 25m 10 Continue up face for 15m. Traverse right 9m into an open book. This stance is on SIDEWALK.

3. 14m 15 Move around the corner using small handhold on corner. Traverse 6m to the right then ascend double crack for 8m using partial layback and moving slightly to the left.

4. 15m 10 Traverse 3m left, then move up through the overhangs on large jug handles to the summit of small pinnacle.

Opposite and 10m upstream of CEDARBERG CRESCENT is a large cave in a gully.

1. 15m 16 Start on the right wall of the cave, up and left into open and then bridge through the cave and up to right at flakes.

Note:

Very dubious rock.

The climb begins about 15m upstream from the junction with Tonquani and about 5m upstream of CEDARBERG RECESS.

1. 42m 10 From the flat ledge 1,5m above stream level (mentioned in CEDARBERG CORNER), ascend easy rock (slightly vegetated) tending slightly right passing a large nettle tree to reach a large ledge. From the ledge climb the face on the left to gain a second ledge and small tree belay.

2. 35m 15 Ascend open book (above right hand cairn) using a series of narrow ledges. From top of open book move right and mantleshelf onto a narrow ledge to gain the base of the groove. Pull up into groove and continue past a large flake, scaling a short open book to reach a ledge and tree belay.

Variation: 2a. 30m 13 As for the first part of the original pitch, but instead of climbing the flake/groove, move right 5m to below a good crack. Climb the crack. (1990 M. Seegers and D. Margetts)

Start upstream of Slipstream around the corner in a crack below a block perched on the ledge a few meters above.

1. 37m (15) Climb crack and left around block. Move diagonally left to Slipstream. Almost immediately traverse right onto nose of buttress by a sharp foot rail and then up the wall to stacked blocks. From the blocks climb up right of the arête and up to ledge just below small overhang. Below the overhang is a chossy rail with a tree root, Slipstream goes left from here. Go around the right and pull through overhang onto ramp with chickenheads and continue straight up to second overhang. Step left and climb the break to top of pinnacle.

Follows the recess running the height of the cliff between the sloping grey arete and the overhanging red buttress upstream of the Boulder Kloof campsite. Start about 3m to the right of PLANXTY.

1. 30m 15 Climb the recess for about 15m, step right, and continue up the right hand, narrow, open book. Pull through onto a blocky ledge and climb the final corner to the top.

The climb is situated approximately 150-200m up Boulder Kloof, directly above the Boulder Kloof meet spot. The feature is a prominent 3m roof situated about 15m up, above steep slabs.

1. 20m 15,A2 Climb directly up to the corner beneath the roof where there is a foothold stance (15). Reach far over to the right to the first fixed piton. A simple series of about 8 aid moves on fixed pitons leads around the overhang to a small stance.

2. 15m 8 Follow the obvious line to the top of the cliff.

Note:

1. All aid used to be in place and consists of short pins placed into pre-drilled holes.

2. One of the pins has fallen out – take a cheat stick if you are short.

Located just before the kloof starts dropping steeply. Slightly downstream of and opposite of RAGING BULL is a downstream facing, clean looking open book about a third of the height of the kloof with an obvious large chockstone about two thirds of the way up the book. Climb this.

1. 23m 16 Start at the base of the open book. Move up a tricky bit to reach the tree at 3m. Pass this and stem up the open book to reach the chockstone. Clear this on the left and climb up, more easily, to reach the tree belay on the big ledge above.

2. 24m 8 Stand on the block above the belay ledge and move up diagonally rightwards to reach the large ledge above.

The climb follows the obvious fault running up the centre of the last major buttress on the left-hand side walking down the kloof. Scramble 15m to the tree belay.

1. 20m 15 Follow the crackline, moving left beneath the steep section and up to stance on sloping.

2. 30m 15 Climb up to the right of the open book and move back up left to a deep tunnel. Swing left and up over steep rock to the top.

This climb starts just upstream of the descent gully. The start is marked by a distinct, upstream facing, open book.

1. 30m 14 Climb the short open book (more difficult for short climbers), move left and traverse around the corner. Scramble up for ± 15m to a face with two vertical crack lines. Climb this face to a good ledge with a tree belay.

2. 15m 16 Climb the corner above the ledge, keeping right, to a small ledge.

3. 15m 11 Traverse left and climb a recess. Move left higher up and then right, to avoid a bush, up a final short corner to the top of the crag.

Note: To descend, walk down the gully just downstream of the climb.

A prominent grey face extends upwards from river level on the true right hand side of the kloof, where the cliffs reach their highest. The route goes directly up this face and continues through a nick in the steep orange rock above.

1. 40m 13 Climb up the centre of the grey face, bearing left to just past the horizontal break, then diagonally right and up to a stance on a blocky buttress (the direct, vertical line from river to stance is graded 17).

2. 20m 15 Climb up behind stance to shallow recess, using this to break through the steep rock and gain the belay above the small trees.

From the cave where the stretcher is kept, proceed 30m upstream to a huge dead tree on the left. Continue up gully (upstream from BAGSCRATCHER) immediately left after the dead tree. Halfway up the gully on the left is a prominent recess with a chimney blocked in at the top. The climb takes the recess and the chimney.

1. 25m 15 Climb the recess to the base of chimney. Continue up the chimney to the roof. Traverse out left using a semi-hand traverse for 3m. Mantleshelf onto the final ledge.

Starts 5m to the right of and around the corner from SCROOGE.

1. 20m 15 Start in the middle of the face. Climb the face to a tree in a narrow chimney. Climb the chimney to a large block and then proceed up the face which overlooks the river below, to a tree. Traverse right to the top of the crag.

The climb is situated approximately 180m upstream from the meet point and above short faces at stream level. Start left of large cavern recess at an obvious crack with roots for the first 3m vanishing into the crack.

1. 26m 15 Climb the crack until crack closes. Move onto left face and continue up until just past the ledge with the Acacia tree. Traverse left on large flake to the ledge above.

2. 12m 10 Climb directly upwards in the corner into the chimney and out to the top.

Climbs the very broken left facing recess below and left of the big roof with the triangular notch,

1. 25m 15 Climb up the easy face to gain a large block. Make an awkward move (crux) off the block into the smooth undercut left facing corner. Climb the corner and then straight up the steep recess above to a big ledge.

Note: Abseil down using the horizontal branch of the large tree.

This climb is situated on the first major buttress upstream of the meet site. The climb is characterised by a large overhang near the top of the buttress and a short crack about one third way up the face on the right.

1. 26m 16 Climb the face starting on the right-hand edge to a short crack. Move leftwards to a small tree below a large overhang. Opt out of crack through the roof and traverse left. Climb the chimney-crack awkwardly to the top (crux).

Note: Good exposure near the top.

The climb takes the centre of the buttress to the right of OPUS ONE.

1. 25m 15 Start in a small recess. Climb up the recess to easier rock. Continue up to the first small overhang. Move through the overhang and continue up to a second overhang with a crack running through it. Surmount this overhang (crux) and move right to climb a short face to the top.

This climb ascends the red faces upstream of the pinnacle routes just before the upper junction of the kloofs. Scramble up the initial rock to the base of the red faces. Move to the right of the faces and to the base of a chimney.

1. 16 Move up the chimney/recess to the base of an overhang. Continue straight up through overhang to small stance.

2. 11m 11 From the stance move up and leftwards to a pleasant face, move diagonally leftwards to the top.

The route starts immediately upstream of DESPERATION i.e. a few metres above the tallest tree. It goes up a crack in the corner between the face and the arete.

1. 20m 15 Climb a slight recess for 3m to reach a crack about 150mm wide. Proceed up the crack, using the face, until a stance is reached below a large overhanging block.

2. 30m 16 Use a thin, strenuous lavback move to surmount the overhanging block. Climb the crack again until a grassy, overhanging face is reached. Traverse left 10m to the base of an obvious chimney with a large chockstone. Ascend the chimney to the top of the climb.

Starts at a point adjacent to the tallest tree in the kloof i.e. between LATE START and DESPERATION. The route follows the diagonally leftwards slanting crackline - prominent overhangs are visible above and to the right of this system.

1. 20m 13 Climb easy rock then, keeping to crack. system, move diagonally leftwards negotiating two awkward steps until a long (2m) narrow ledge is reached below the overhanging crack overlap.

2. 20m 15 Ascend the overhanging overlap to the large roof above (4m – crux). Traverse left below roof (possible stance 3m left) across to the obvious chimney. Climb this to the top (loose).

An entertaining route of great variety.

1. 30m 15 Climb the first pitch as for LATE START. Continue straight up the wall behind the first stance to a roof. Traverse right from under the roof (an interesting finger traverse) to the edge. Continue up to good belay.

Climb starts 6m to the left of WHOOSH and midway between it and CHICKEN CRUMPET.

1. 12m 11 Climb 9m up the bulging broken face on smooth sloping holds to a ledge. Walk. 3m right to the small tree at a recess.

2. 23m 11 Climb 5m above the recess to a small tree. then climb 12m diagonally up to the left (near the top of the flat overhanging wall on the left there is a superb 30cm spike belay point). Move to the right and scramble to the top.

Variation: 2- 23m 15 Start 3m left of tree belay and climb straight up the steep face to the top (unprotected).

Start as for WHOOSH but continue to the right and finish near MISDIRECTED.

1. 17m 13 From the tree in the top of the gully, climb 7m diagonally to the right, using the tree to reach the corner. Traverse 5m to the right with a tricky balance move (unprotected). Climb the narrow crack in a steep open book to a small stance at a tree.

2. 15m 15 Climb 2m above the tree. Traverse 1,5m to the right and climb 3m up a steep sharp arete. Move to the left under a recess and climb straight up the steep 6m lichen-covered face to the top with a strenuous crux move halfway up.

Situated 140 paces from the meet point on the left hand side of the kloof just before the arete meets water level.

1. 27m 15 Scramble up a little 3m wall to a grassy ledge with trees. The route follows the right hand of the two grooves. Climb up the groove until stopped by the overhang. Step left onto the wall and up to a ledge. Move back into the groove and upwards, moving right onto the rib to avoid the vegetation in the crack.

This climb is situated about 50m upstream of OUBOY. It ascends a buttress of rock just to the left of the descent gully. A crack system with a tree in it is situated just to the right of the stance.

1. 15m 10 Climb up buttress just 2m left of the recess with a tree in it. Continue up to a good ledge.

2. 25m 16 Climb the right hand recess with the crack in it. Move left at the top of the recess to the ledge. Continue up easier ground past the tree to the top of the pinnacle.

Note: Unsustained pleasant climb. Climb down easily behind the pinnacle.

This climb is situated about 50m upstream of TANGLES on a reddish face capped by a small overhanging face.

1. 15m 16 Climb up the middle of the face to a small overhang. A good vertical finger crack is situated near the base of the overhang, (one can opt out to the left at this stage). Move through the overhang to the top of the face.

Note: Sustained clean climbing.

The face to the right of TANGLES.

1. 15m 16 Climb up the centre of the face to the roof. Pull through and move to the top.

5m to the right of NI and SAN and to the left of a prominent cave is a well defined crack with a dead tree growing out of the face at 15m and a large tree at 18m. A deep chimney directly above the tree is clearly visible from the ground.

1. 25m 15 Start at the small tree or from a ledge 2m up and to the right. Ascend straight up the crack. Crux is an awkward looking bulge at 8m, above a shallow chimney. Then climb past the dead tree and through a chimney to the top, grade 12/13 after crux.

Note: The dead tree is potentially dangerous and needs gardening. Overall a very pleasant, well protected route.

Just upstream of CENTENARY PINNACLE is a steep gully bound on the upstream side by an obvious ridge sweeping down towards the stream. The route takes the last line on the right (a kloof high crack starting at fist width and ending in a chimney high up) with a tree growing out of it half way up on the upstream facing wall of this ridge (cairn). The line is classic and affords beautiful clean climbing throughout.

1. 28m 16 Move up the steep crack. The crux is about 2m up and is surmounted by using the knobbly hold on the left wall high up. Pull past large tree growing out of crack and gain chimney above with difficulty. Climb the chimney moving out onto the face to clear the top obstruction. Take a comfortable stance on the large block at the top of the crack.

Notes:

1. Scramble to the top and descend via the gully (with one abseil from stout tree) just upstream.

2. A superlative route on clean, crisp rock throughout.

3. This may be the same route as SSNAKE.

Route takes the line of the chimney on the upstream side of the pinnacle lying 50m upstream of the second weir.

1. 28m 15 Scramble up to the base of the corner with dark coloured rock capped with a large roof (old piton in wall on right). Climb the corner. Step right around the roof and ascend the blocky recess to the base of the chimney. Follow the outside of the chimney to the top on good knobbly rock.

Variation:

Three metres to the right of the chimney in TWILIGHT CAPERS and to the right of the old piton is a double crackline with the right hand crack leading up to a shallow open book after 3m.

1. 8m 18 Ascend the cracks (steep) to the large ledge, then move left to rejoin the original route up the pinnacle. Pro is good but grade 15 climbers may find it tricky to hang on while putting it in. (2 Apr 1989 D. Quaife, S. Kellet and S. Marsland)

Climbs the obvious grove starting behind the tumbled pile of boulders 5m upstream of MUTTERED MAGIC. The route moves left of the large flat roof to gain the grey coffin-shaped recess and finishes straight up.

1. 23m 15 Ascend the groove to a point just past a small cream-coloured triangular overhang on the left. Traverse left across the wall making use of a thin foot rail and a dubious loose flake to good holds in the base of the coffin shaped recess (airy traverse). Ascend the recess, bypassing the large roof on the left to the top of the shield above. Finish as for MUTTERED MAGIC up the rough wall to the comfortable belay ledge.

Note: Protection is good. Beware of the loose flake on the exposed traverse.

Although not a pure rock climb, as the tree roots are extensively used, it is included on its merits as being a tremendous line. Start 2m left of WHEN ALL ELSE FAILS, CLIMB!, that is at the base of the prominent tree root to the left of the smooth wall forming the arête.

1. 20m 16 Gain the smooth wall on the left-hand side and with the aid of the tree root ascend to below the V-groove. Ascend the steep groove, using the roots liberally and the jamming crack in the back, to a comfortable ledge on the right. Step back left and finish up a short recess on excellent rock.

Note: A good route for "swingers", stunt men and would-be simians!

The route takes the face immediately right of HOOKED ON CLASSICS, and has a tree at the base of it.

1. 30m 16 Climb the face to its top, then move left onto the left hand wall of the gully, and climb up over the 3 ledges to the top.

Situated between CALCULUS and BLOCKBUSTER in the upper kloof on a steep flat face.

1. 32m 16 Climb easily for 8m to a ledge below a steep face. Climb on eroded but firm holds on this face (crux) to enter a downstream facing recess big enough to get a shoulder in. Continue to the top in this recess, passing a reddish patch to the right halfway up.

Variation:

1. 15 To avoid the crux rail left at the first ledge, almost to the chimney on the left. Surmount an awkward bulge then move right again to the original route.

Directly across from the large waterfall gully is a grey buttress with a distinct crack running up its face. The route follows this to the top of the buttress. [Pipe No 32 above the pipe ramp.]

1. 20m 15 From the centre of the buttress, ascend the crack to the ledge beneath the tower. Scramble up over loose blocks to the top.

Note: I am sure the youth was sandbagging. This is at least 21. (Previous Editor)

Variation: From underneath the first overhang, traverse right to the arête and continue up from there.

Start in a downstream-facing corner right of the recess mentioned in SPHINCTER SPASM. [24 pipe lengths upstream from the pipe ramp.]

1. 12m 10 Climb the pyramid-shaped pile of blocks in a tapering recess to a platform.

2. 20m 15 Climb the slightly overhanging downstream-facing recess (awkward start). Move right near the top on to the front of the buttress and on to the top.

Left of THE BILLS, THE BILLS is a brown flat face where the peculiar geological strata inverts the holds 135o. This is 15 pipe lengths up from the pipe ramp. In front of this face are three stepped blocks.

1. 20m 15 Climb the blocks moving upstream. Launch off the third tall block, moving left into a vague recess and up to a small tree. Move left then up and right over grass to a belay block.

2. 40m 10 Climb the 60o slope (25m) to the final buttress overlooking the steep exposed gully to the left. Climb under an overhang and up to the three cockscomb blocks at the top.

Note: Spoiled by the boring section at the start of the second pitch.

Start just upstream of the pipe ramp (pipe no 4) between JOLLY RODGER and INCOMMUNICADO.

1. 30m 11 Climb left of three minor stepped overhangs and move right over the top of these to a tree in a square recess (PORCO DIO goes up the right-hand side). Climb the left-hand slab to a large ledge with blocks.

2. 20m 11 Climb the steep 90o corner to the right of a prominent thin crack in hard brown rock. Three-quarters of the way up one can move right through the gap behind the arête onto the downstream side. Variation:

3. 15 If one goes straight up the natural line there are two grade 15 moves to reach the broad ledge. Scramble up easy rock to the top.

Immediately upstream of the ENTERPRISE buttress and the route ITS LIFE JIM, BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT are two small detached columns one behind the other. The route takes the chimney and then the crack in the stream facing side of the lower of the two columns. Start at the tree next to the chimney in the downstream facing side of the lower of the two columns.

1. 23m 16 Climb the chimney and surmount the chockstone above to reach the top of the block. Climb the clean crack to the right with difficulty to reach the ledge above. Step to the left and ascend the obvious crack. Move left to the arête and pull up the crack to the tiny summit. The summit is only able to stance a medium sized dassie and, for this reason, take a belay on the little ledge on the upstream side of the column summit. The rest of your party can be parked on the large block below and on the upstream side of the column.

Notes:

1. Scramble down on the downstream side by traversing in towards HUMBLE TRUNDLE below the ENTERPRISE buttress and then down the obvious gully.

2. Excellent climbing on clean rock.

The route takes the thin crack line some 10m upstream of BEAM ME UP SCOTTY, on the upstream facing side of the ENTERPRISE buttress. Start at the 5mm wide crack after fighting through the bush/tree (cairn).

1. 15m 15 Climb the crack to easier ground above. Ignore the first crack branching off to the right and bridge up the second crack which branches off to the right. Heave through the roof to comfortable stance above.

100m upstream of the pinnacle on which TWILIGHT CAPERS is situated is a buttress on the right of the kloof with two prominent overhangs at top and a well defined crack in the face to the left of the upstream (triangular) overhang. On the opposite side of the kloof a narrow buttress protrudes for 10m. The route follows a prominent vertical crack 3m from the outer end of the buttress on the downstream side.

1. 10m 16 Climb the crack using hand jams in very coarse grained rock.

Directly above the second weir is a deep prominent red corner, the left-hand wall of which is overhanging. The route ascends the corner and thence via an open book to the top.

1. 16m 13 Follow the crack in the corner to the large ledge with tree.

2. 18m 15 Ascend the grey face behind the ledge until it is possible to step left into the red open book. Bridge up the open book on thin holds to the top.

Takes the easy-looking line between POM'S FINALE and BIG DADDY. Start on a grey face on upstream side of a tall rib running halfway up the cliff.

1. 27m 15 Climb face to a small tree on a ledge common with POM'S FINALE. Move up slightly then move right, around a bulge to the foot of a steep open book recess. Climb the recess (crux) to a ledge, thence via easier ground to the top.

Note: Not as good as the climbs next door, but still worthwhile.

15m downstream of COMFORTABLY NUMB lies the TRINITY WALL. The route takes the steep groove system on the left-hand end of the wall taken by THE KID and SPOOKY. Start 3m right of the left-hand edge of the wall.

1. 25m 15 Follow the groove system, through a short chimney section, to gain the inverted-V feature with an awkward move. Ascend the steep crack above the inverted-V on good jams using the left wall to best advantage. Follow this to the summit.

Note: The climbs on the TRINITY WALL are an essential training ground for grade 15 tigers.

Starts as for SPOOKY.

1. 25m 15 Gain the broad ledge and step 2m left. Follow the rising ramp line, steeply at first, to a small platform in an exposed position on the left. Gain the shelf above and ascend the jamming crack in the right-hand corner, passing a small tree, to a perched-block belay.

Note: Superb rock throughout.

Ascends the obvious crack/recess system on the right-hand end of the TRINITY WALL (see BIG DADDY). Start directly below crack system.

1. 25m 16 Gain the crack system from a broad ledge at 2m and follow it directly, passing a old gnarled tree at 18m. Step slightly right above this and continue past second tree to summit.

Note: Superb climbing on a steep wall. Go for it!

Just upstream of OBSCENE GESTURE is a deep undercut amphitheatre capped by some roofs. In the wall of the amphitheatre are two striking crack systems. The route takes the left of the two crack systems - cairn.

1. 23m 15 Climb the crack at the root of the open book at the left extremity of the amphitheatre until forced leftwards by the roof above. Break left to clear up the arête. Take a stance at the tree.

Notes:

1. Excellent climbing with adequate protection.

2. Descend via the steep gully just upstream.

Just upstream of OBSCENE GESTURE is a deep undercut amphitheatre capped by some roofs. In the wall of the amphitheatre are two striking crack systems. The route takes the right of the two crack systems - cairn.

1. 25m 15 Start at the base of the left of the two crack systems. Move up and diagonally right to reach the base of the right crack. Climb this, passing the tree and move up to the base of the narrow, very steep crack above. Move right along the ledge to clear. After about 2m reach the arête and climb this to take a stance on top of the buttress. Excellent climbing.

Note: Descend via the steep gully just upstream.

Situated on the left side of the buttress between the two pinnacles on the downstream one of which is next to JUNGLE ROCK.

1. 34m 15 Climb a steep open book for 18m to a ledge (a traverse to the right of about 6m would give an impressive variation up a steep narrow crack), then proceed for 16m up to a rather grubby crack to the top, using a very helpful hand-jam.

On the true left, at the twelfth pipe above the pipe ramp, there is a square buttress, with a 3m free-standing pinnacle at its foot. JUNGLE ROCK takes the upstream side of this buttress. Start 3m downstream of the downstream side of the buttress, in the middle of an intimidating slab.

1. 25m 15 Move up and right to attain the prominent crack, which is loosely followed onto a sloping, vegetated ledge. Move left until you are in line with the start, and climb easily up for 15m to a larger ledge.

Note: To descend, scramble to last few metres, and walk 150m down-stream to the cairn, which indicates the descent ramp. The climbing is pleasant, but run-out in places.

On the left hand wall of the large dry waterfall approx. 10m from the corner is a crack which flares at the top. The route ascends this short crack to the steps and thence up the layback crack above.

1. 24m 15 Ascend the short crack with two good jams. Mantle over the two large steps above to the base of the layback crack. Layback up the first section transferring to jams higher up. From the large ledge at the top of the crack ascend the right-hand face to the top.

Takes the arête immediately downstream of the dry waterfall i.e. the right bounding wall of the waterfall. Start below a shallow, vegetated recess to the left of a cleaner, narrow arête.

1. 20m 13 Pull up into the recess and, after 3m, step right on to the arête. Follow the arête directly, with a steep section immediately below an obvious belay ledge.

2. 20m 15 Ascend the slim, straight arête on the right of the belay ledge, with awkward moves at 5m. Continue up the arête, stepping into the corner on the right after 12m (dubious rock). Follow the arête until able to step right (below a tree) to a ledge.

Note: A route of little merit, apart from the mileage.

Starts up an obvious narrow chimney a few metres downstream of the arete to the right of GUIDED TOUR.

1. 35m 13 Climb the chimney and small face above it and continue up to a ledge on steep rock with good holds.

2. 14m 15 Move left along the ledge to a small face just beyond a narrow vegetated gully. Climb 6m up the face, moving right into the continuation of the gully. Continue up the gully then move left onto the small face and up to a pimple-like knob which marks the end of the climb.

Note: The rock is excellent with sharp holds, though steep. A few slabs just above the take-off may not be too solid and should be treated with care.

Starts 6m to left of ALADDINSANE up a good short open book. It is to the left of the cave-like recess mentioned in CRACK-A-NO-GO and is downstream-facing.

1. 15m 15 Climb up to the open book and follow to the top, moving left to finish.