Vie in Celebrity Crags

The first route on the left wall of the gully, before you hit the creek. The belay zone is perpetually muddy, so a rope tub rather than rope bag is recommended. Scramble onto high platform to put your shoes on then blast off. Much effort has gone into ensuring the unique ironstone "wave" in the final roof stays in place for your climbing pleasure. You can happily hang off it and double kneebar against it - just don't kick it or try to deliberately break it. Take one long sling for the first roof.

About 10m R of Headliner. A well-protected roof boulder to start, then epic steepness on equally epic-sized holds. The finish is wild. Kneebars not required. Will my grade of 25 stick?

Access as if you were walking to Jimmy Cliff, but when you drop into the (second) creek and come up the other side, don't go R along the path, instead go straight up to a smooth rock pillar/shelf under the roof. Stickclip high first bolt, then truck left along the rail to set up for a knee-related crux on Nowra-like stone. Then take it to the top. A roller on the belay bolt helps with boinking.

The rightmost of two mini-routes in the roof opposite the stairs (the left is a closed proj). Belay at creek level on dry rock platform. All killer, no filler (and no kneebars) out the roof to the lip (single bolt). Backjump.

Reasonably popular steep and shady route, starting from a high ledge above the tourist track. Rebolted 2017.

Start at Geek Heathen then go left through steepness and up wall to share anchors with Truly Madly..

Shared start with 0055 Hot Wet Action, then right to shared anchors with Geek Salad. Because of the long traverse this requires a second to clean.

Well worth doing since the 2019 rebolt. Left-most route on this wall. Steep right trending start then back left up face to anchors.

Start at far right end of the boulder, traverse left to opposite end (at tree). Stays mid/low. 22 moves.

Far left route, starting halfway along the approach traverse. Belay off U-bolt and stick-clip first bolt. Rebolted 2017.

Shared start with JJ then left. Rebolted 2017.

Shared start with previous, then straight up. Fun jug hauling. Rebolted 2017.

A new addition that weaves its way around the massive flake feature at half height. Enjoy.

A bit of a sandbag with one of the hardest moves on the whole wall. Rebolted 2017.

Just to the right of the tree growing against the cliff. Rebolted 2017.

Middle of the right three routes. Nice and shady all day and some cool ironstone features. Rebolted 2017.

Good fun with a short section of thinness up high. Reach helps. Rebolted 2017.

Be an arborist to gain the ledge. A quick mantle, then it steepens through a strenuous little bulge and final juggy headwall. The crux might be keeping your rope out of the drink.

Left of BCC. High stickclip, belay in 'the hole'. Up through disintegrating ceiling. Burly and steep. F.a didnt clip either of the Jumbo u bolts on send.

Steep techo climbing on sub-optimal rock. Located 30m left of Lamppost Licker, deep inside the canyon.

Left side of grey overhung wall above the tourist track. Up past some questionable holds to steep crux.

start on slab above the steps and awkwardly over bulge and onto arete at the very right end of the wall. nice position

Warning - "Bolted with questionable gear" 1998 Pircher Guidebook

Warning - "Bolted with questionable gear" 1998 Pircher Guidebook

The right most of the super easy black slab routes. Looks pretty appalling.

Climb straight up to the high anchor. Very easy, lot of bolts.

5m left. Start up grotty groove, then not much better easy angled climbing above.

Right hand route up through steepness.

Route 1m L starting at the big shark-fin hold. Quite cruxy!

Start a couple of metres L of AATM. Steep wall climbing past the "moonboard crux", then the mega popcorn ceiling. A few sandy holds can be avoided in the last couple of easy metres to the anchor, no biggie. Recent comments suggest it might be harder than 28, opinions welcome.

The big left to right traverse. Start 10m L of POD under large hueco. Stickclip then blast right (including some up and down climbing) along huge features to the crux transition climbing up to the big roof. Then jug upwards to glory. Better beta has seen this settle at 29.

About 10m L of FTB. Note that this is not the warmup you are looking for. Two close bolts on initial tricky black wall to ledge. Third clip is reachy (if this was close to your limit you might like a #2 cam or panic quickdraw). Interesting, steeper wall climbing above relents to a slabby finish. Last few metres can remain damp after rain, eyeball it from the ground before starting.

The scoop feature 10m L. Carefully traverse in across the ledge to clip first bolt and begin. Reasonably sustained with a crux lunge that is a bit more powerful than you want it to be at the grade.

A great little testpiece. 5m L of FTD. Stickclip and traverse in from the L. Techy, bouldery moves past the second bolt on pockets to get established on the face above. Classy climbing on ripples and incuts from here to the top.

5m L of ASITD at the black face with small rooflet. Start at flake. Stickclip, then very powerfully up and right to tough second clip. Very thin to the third, then relax, it's in the can.

Links from the second bolt on COVID into the third on Take Two.

Furthest L route up the gully. Three bolts to anchors. Stickclip!

Clamber to ledge via rungs and rope. Route starts off log and was done WITHOUT bridging into the corner.

Was partially bolted, abandoned, and now cleaned up 20 years later. 3m R of Basic Instinct, up the slab past two rings onto the diving board. Very carefully up Corner, then out left to the arete. Continue up the right side of this with increasingly interesting moves. Hand traverse the holdless rising ramp, where a few more pulls will see you on the headwall with pleasant edges leading to the anchor.

Start where the track meets the rock. High stickclip to start; steep, moderate climbing for 6 bolts to a ledge below the 'slab'. A baffling move to overcome the slab and then it's game on up the headwall on cool pockets to an improbable-looking, dynamic crux. Take one long sling for the first bolt on the slab.

Climb Basic Instinct to the first ledge. Clip third bolt with long sling then climb up a few moves before traversing directly L out of BI along line of pockets and up to major ledge. Marble rock above this before encountering the bulge. Jetpack through this but keep some in the tank for the technical headwall up proud orange streak.

5m L of Basic Instinct. A boulder route with tricky sections split by ledge rests. Cool iron-cross boulder moving L under roof then up to ledge. Extremely steep elevator doors scoop section to more moderate headwall finish.

1m R of The Specialist. With its multiple roof boulders, has a very similar flavour to The Specialist, but likely a touch harder. Deceptive headwall finale.

Up pockets and through roof to ledge. Full body climbing through the next steep section to ledge. A lower angle final third caps things off. Take a couple of long slings and kneepads.

3m L of TS. This boulder problem on a rope climbs through the distinctive hole in the roof before getting to grips with some very small holds. Very hard to grade as the key move is a long reach - span will affect difficulty. Climbed with first two bolts clipped and no cairn - the start move is part of the route.

A bouldery number. Batman, boulder past second bolt before clipping it. Before reaching up to left hand clipping pocket at crux, lay rope between thumb and forefinger on left hand as typical clip from waist in the dropknee will wrap rope under left wrist during crux. FA had 18cm draw on crux. All action to the very top.

Batman then up right.

Batman start as for SVASR then head right and up.

Batman start. Long and varied with a sting in the tail. Popular!

Shared first bolt with Beaver Shot then the right line of bolts. Finishes a little lower than most routes on this wall under big roof. Scary hard move to reach the anchors - can be done both left and right ways. The extension does go for whoever is keen.

Another bouldery start past flake. Up the wall to a confounding section under the roof. Breach the roof, then directly up to anchors.

Start off cairn with committing move, then pumpy steep climbing to left set of anchors on the slab directly above last bolt.

Start at the left end of the wall and smile all the way. Both juggy and pumpy.

Far left end of wall is a steep crack - with a rusty piton down low (1980s? Origin unknown). Climbs surprisingly well as a toprope problem off the anchor of HoP, with a few small-mid size cams for directionals and a little care of your rope run. Would certainly be worth the effort of cleaning the veg and snappy rock, and updating the pin, to make it leadable.

Start at very left end of crag on top of big starting block. Up corner and slabs then through roof (extend bolt below roof) and up wall to anchors. Enjoy the exposure!

Quite the traversity. An airy steep multi-pitch sport route which stays in the shade until 2pm. Due to the tourist track running underneath this route keep an eye on knocking off loose rock on the 2nd and 4th pitches and avoid doing the route during busy holiday periods (xmas/easter etc). The first three pitches can be done by themselves and is choss free (35m rap back to ground). Bring 16 draws and a couple of single length runners.

1. 40m (19) Slab up the wall with a left trend to the big horizontal break underneath the huge roof. Scuttle hard left for 15m then finish up nice purple face. Pull on the hanging short rope to avoid an unpleasant mantle onto the shale ledge. 14 bolts. You can bail left from here by walking off along ledge and around to tourist track.

2. 7m (2) Crawl right along shale slot to large ledge belay. There is a fixed rope across this currently. Belay off single bolt and low first lead bolt on next pitch.

3. 15m (20) Steep wall and slabby corner to sweet ledge belay. 6 bolts. 35m rap from here (70m rope doubled) makes it to the ground.

4. 30m (19) Right and up steep wall with sections of shale and looseness. Be very careful not to knock anything off onto track below. 9 bolts. Belay on top of cliff (no rap back down possible from top). To exit walk 50m east (rock cairns) and spot the rock pagoda which forms a natural tourist lookout across a narrow gully to the north. Scramble down into the overgrown gully (pink string on trees marking trail) and up the other side, arriving on the right side of the pagoda. Follow the tourist track back up the hill.