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Vie in Waylander

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Tutti 15 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
27 Kaizen

Farthest right route being the first encountered when walking from via ferrata. Tricky face climbing up to roof, then crux reach through roof. Likely to be impossible if you're shorter than 175cm. Anchors under roof mean you can do the first section as a 3 star 25.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Mar 2016

Sportiva 38m
24 Waylander

Excellent trad pitch with a great mix of styles. Start 3m left of Kaizen at ramp/flake. Straight up well protected face into crack and corner. Bolted belay at 38m, recommend 80m rope for lowering. Take double cams from 0.3 Camelot to 3 Camelot and double wires. Consider 3 x 2 Camelot and 3 x 3 Camelot. Lots of slings!

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 4 Mar 2016

Trad 38m
28 Gumption

3m left of Waylander, start at Gritstone slab/layback. Recommend to stick-clip first bolt. Bouldery crux at first roof (permadraw) and then a further 28m of fine, pumpy and varied climbing.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dic 2016

Sportiva 38m
27 Nadir

5m left of Gumption at vertical wall with small start cairn. Engaging climbing up to roof and rest. Hard and committing sequence through 2.5m roof, followed by quality face climbing. Anchors below roof for rebelay to aid cleaning. First section to these anchors is a decent 24.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Ott 2016

Sportiva 36m
27 The Enforcer

12m left of Gumption at the base of short slab. Up through steepening terrain through main roof. The 15m long headwall is bullet hard, baked orange goodness. Hard 26 or soft 27, grade still to even out.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Gen 2017

Sportiva 36m
26 Corner Drug

Left of The Enforcer, ascend small pinnacle to start. Climb wall into trad-y corner. Good shake at permadraw then drop the clutch through the crux face climbing.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Dic 2016

Sportiva 36m
27 Hard Reset

Start on left end of pinnacle as for Corner Drug. Enjoyable but wind-y climbing up to hanging corner feature. Delicate and devious beta gets you through the corner to small arete and up. Long draws and sling runners essential.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Ott 2017

Sportiva 36m
28 Water Hazard

Novel tree start down and left of Hard Reset. Cruxy face leads to base of headwall and good rest. Upper section is engaging and continuous on superb rock.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, Gen 2018

Sportiva 36m
26 Megaflex

An epic adventure up all sorts of vertical terrain. Starts 50m around left from Waylander proper. Arete to start then technical wall and hidden slab - then traverse right and up slabby arete and then face, bulge and corner to finish. Use long runners to avoid rope drag. Watch your rope length - 70m rope will just get you down if your belayer stands on the starting cairn!

FFA: Heath Black & Lee Cujes, Gen 2018

Sportiva 40m, 20
23 Multiplex

Crag warmup. Climb Megaflex for 9 bolts then head left and up face past bolt to anchors in middle of blank slab.

FFA: 26 Nov 2017

FA: Heath Black & Paul Frothy Thomson, 26 Nov 2017

Sportiva 25m, 10
24 The Darkest Hour

Pumper. Start in corner as for Hail Mary but break right at first bolt and haul up overhung pocketed wall to climactic finish. Named in honor of 100km/h+ storm winds that howled in the valley below during the first ascent.

FFA: Heath Black, thomas wimmer & Duncan Steel †, 9 Gen 2018

Sportiva 25m, 12
25 Hail Mary

Start as for The Darkest Hour corner but stay on the left face, dabbling onto the arete at a few points, then left and up wall, through bulge and finish with hyper technical face.

FFA: Heath Black & Emil Mandyczewsky, 2 Gen 2018

Sportiva 28m, 12
23 Saw-Toothed Snake

Meanders up face left 2m of major corner (Hail Mary) and punches through steep jugs to finish.

FFA: Heath Black & Emil Mandyczewsky, 16 Gen 2018

Sportiva 28m, 13
23 Born Restless

Really long, steep and fun - the jugs at the top are next level huge. 4m left of Saw-Toothed Snake, at short flake feature and low roof. Stickclip high first bolt. This route shares a few moves with Saw Toothed Snake just before the final steepness.

FA: Heath Black, 18 Mar 2018

Sportiva 30m, 13
17 Four Pillars of Wisdom

Trad protected corner 10m left of STS. The top half has some remarkable but fragile rock features (including 4 small pillars). Lower off anchors on ledge.

FFA: Neil Monteith, 10 Nov 2018

Trad 18m

Tutti 15 vie visualizzati.

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