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Fantastic line up the wall featuring interesting and varied climbing. Got a bit intimidated by its reputation and Hayden's punt so I decided to toprope first. Felt really solid on all the moves, and combined with all the kneebar rests it should go on gear.
With the high point at 75%, I went up again and finished the last 25% by any means necessary: batmans, assisted dynos, pulling on gear, the works. We managed to get both of us to the top and retrieve all of the gear before the sun was completely gone -- success!
It would be very good if it wasn’t so bloody scary. First bit of pro 5-6 metres up then dodgy old carrots and some spicy cam placements all make for a good value fright.
Is 20 years ago long enough to claim a second onsight? This route is awesome. Take more red and gold cams than I did though. I got quite pumped shuffling.
Quite hard laybacking. Two short cruxes for me... down low getting to the stance, then hardsteep laybacking with slick feet through the top crux. Needs tape to make this one comfortable, and we both forgot it this time! At least 22 if it was a sport route.
End of the day with a headtorch. Hadn't been on this in a year, and wanted a shot to get my confidence back. Felt solid and fun, though still tough. Found two no-hands rests! Embarassingly, amidst my showboating post no-hands-rest I fell off on the face moves. Pulled back on and clean to the top. Back on the sharp-end on this one next weekend.
40m? Try 20m. Quite strenuous, and I fell once below the crux before I switched to stemming-orientated laybacking and made it feel about a million times easier. Think I could probably lead this next, but will definately be a battle. Bring lots of #0.75 and #1 cams, as well as some rocket fuel and an extra set of muscles. Good!