Vie in Mount Victoria Area del grado selezionato

The left hand line of rings through steepness from the belay ledge of TSL. Wandery. Good. Belay as for TSL off rings.

Start: 22m right of BA.Corner.

1. 30m (-) Ledge, wide crack to ferns (?), right and up to ledge.

2. 20m (21) 'Layback' and wall.

Start: 5m left of T. Distinct lack of pro and goundfall potential. "Kill you without trying, that's ... accuracy" - The Cure

Exposed but retro'd. 50m rope ok if belayer is on block as base

Start at 'S' (for the Spartan)

1. 21m (21) Up right hand corner and up left into corner

2. 24m (21) Right to cave, hard move to arete and up

3. 12m (-) Up off ledge to obvious topout

Start from DBB above the top of "Cartwheeling"[15381121]. Follow left arete up past 5 bolts and a ring to DBB on top.

Start above AC.

Start 4m L of C (marked below fixed hanger). Stick clip fixed hanger then thin balancy moves up and slight left to hand traverse ledge. Hand traverse left past bolts and up to medium cam placements on arete, then easily up and right past another cam to cave and rap chain.

Start 7m left of OU.

Start 5m left on left side of arete.

Start as for Psychodrama - with great caution. Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaur's traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

The splitter line 3m L of Amen Corner, initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains (which are a bit outdated).

Start left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send. Start 60m left of Skypilot. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base.

1. 25m 21 Awesome orange corner crack to DRB (replaced 2013 - P.T)

2. 15m The chimney above is usually not done.

Start: 1.5m right of Curtain Call.

Rambly trad first pitch and fun bolted arete 2nd pitch. It's easy to rap in and climb out the top pitch without doing the bottom one.

Start 9m left of 'El Bungle'. Dirty crack.

1. 25m (16) Not much gear but it's there when you need it. Start in the centre of the dirty grey slab beneath the right hand end of the Solomon Overhang (or just wherever looks most approachable). Easily up vague dirty crack to small tree than generally rightwards to blunt arete and up to very comfy belay ledge (bolt belay).

2. 22m (21) Wall left of arete, then up the steep arete (ringbolts). Runout easy finish to bolt belay on top of cliff.

One of the best routes at Piddo and something a little bit different from the usual fair. Rebolted 2021.

1. 25m (16R) Average. As for the first pitch of Beginner's Steps wandering up right on grey slab to bolt belay on small ledge.

2. 40m (21R) Pure class. Climb boldly left from the belay along juggy rail eventually reaching the first bolt (be very careful getting to this - there is a slab below to hit). Continue left and up via some exciting slabbing past another bolt to reach break and old bolt ladder (clip the jumbo bolt hanger). Steel thyself for the memorable journey leftwards passing one more bolt and a lot less gear than you'd like. When you get to the arete you can either finish easily up this (probably the better option) or, for those looking to get the maximum amount of sideways mileage, continue around the corner and finish up the top of Solomon. Belay from trees etc.

Left to right traverse of the north face along the horizontal break feature. Originally done in two pitches. The first is sport and finishes at hidden rap chain above Flaming Youth. The second is poorly protected trad and is rarely done.

The right side of the arete- Flight Line for the masses.

Fun easy roof jugging to short headwall. Warning: There have been at least 3 incidents of quickdraws being worn through or severed from repetitive falling on the 1st bolt of this climb - take care if this is near your limit!

Subtle black arete that seeps after rain.

Left side of wall - shared start with Pixie Drink.

Start is marked and is 5m R of 54WWS.

1. 30m (21)

2. 15m (? - easy)

Start is marked. There's a carrot up there at like 15m.

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

Don't underestimate this little ditty - the desperate start isn't the only tough move!

The steep, sandy corner/flake. As a sport route it has lower offs at 15m. You can continue another 30m to the top with minimal (no) gear!

The line of u bolts from base of buttress intersecting Texas Tea traverse at 15mtrs and continuing up face. A strenuous and extremely chossy first pitch. This route shares 6m of climbing with Screen Gems however if your following carrots you're off route. Has gained a few grades after it was mentioned it shares Screen Gems crux and gained three extra bolts (20/11/14) after J.Smoothy tactfully convinced route developer that broken ankles and shattered shins and knees are not in vogue and never have been. Climb in one pitch (recomended!)from ground with 20 draws (a couple of long ones too) or use DUBB at 15mtrs and multi. Pull mantle crux and dance on up for ever. Take one or two #0.4 camalots for break near top (essential). DUBB @ top.

An ok arete down low then a broken wall above with a tricky undercut mantle move. When looking out rap down left of the large tree near the edge of the cliff to a semi hanging belay off rubbish old chain. This route is mostly rusty carrot bolts - but with a significant runout (trad?) section in the middle. Bolt count is approximate.

Start: 20m right of FF. Ferney corner right of white choss.

1. 15m (21) 'Grovel' to roof and corner, right to arete.

2. 35m (21) Squeeze into slot then out over the roof into corner. 'Steep' crack to tree? Corner to ledge.

3. 20m (-) Head off to the left.

Pockety traverse - before the main area (from the Engineers Cascade side) - probably want a pad for this one.

Start as for for Albino Redback but straight(ish) up.

Obvious campus problem next to Garth’s arete. Good hands and absolutely no feet.

The full traverse - left to right - finish on high orange jug near tree. Individual moves are probably V1/V2, but it’s a long pumpfest.

The arete.

Starts from the belay ledge above Taipan P1. Diagonally left along very flexing flake (take care!) to rap bolts.

Rebolted 2006. Quite contrived as the difficulty depends on whether you bridge out onto the adjacent wall.

quite strenuous

an excellent extension to dress rehearsal rag

Popular & thoughtful first pitch.

1. 15m (17) Rising traverse past 4 carrots to ledge. Solid at the grade.

2. 20m (21) Rarely done through steepness above. Not a sport pitch.

Great technical slab/face climb. Since the 'rebolt' it should be renamed Flakes as you no longer get any Shakes! If you were lucky to have done it before the 'rebolt' consider yourself lucky to have experienced one of the best routes of the 'old' mountain tradition. Only one bracket required for the high first bolt - the remaining are FHs and rings.

Start as for Dance of the Nymph but climb straight up middle of grey wall.

One of the very best moderate cracks in the Bluies. Some connoisseurs even prefer this to the mighty Janicepts. It is likely that this is the reason you came here.

Start a couple of metres to the right (facing in) of the rap line. The obvious corner crack!

1. 15m (21) Up corner to roof and left to comfy belay. Often seeps.

2. 30m (21) Three dimensional joy. Stem, chimney, pirouette, and jam to glory.

Climb the Right arete of the orange wall past 2 bolts to BB at top.

Start from end of ledge 3m right of Pirouette. Three BR then right and through overlap to DBB. Up just right of arete. May have been rebolted with rings?

Impressive names on the first ascent - much less impressive route. Start on back (southern side) of Showpiece buttress below short left facing corner. This is looking pretty mossy.

1. 20m Up and left to arete (BR). 2 BRS to DBB and #1.5 Friend

2. 20m off left end of ledge (BR), left to stance (BR), up and right to lip (BR). Up.

Starts 4m right of Rollover on left end of ledge. BRs, cams and wires.

Start: Right side of the gully.

Undercut start through steep stuff around the left side of the Aunty Jack wall. Carrots (first with fixed hanger) and small wires.

Traverse left as for start of aunty jack. Continue further left to line of carrots and up. Avoid going to the arete to keep the grade.

Straightens out of the middle of Rattler.

Middle of buttress. Dirty slab (trad) then short steeper wall (2 bolts).

Start 1.5m R of 'Birds Nest'. Thin face past about 5 stainless carrot bolts plus a cam, to loweroffs. The thin crux is unfortunately much harder than the rest of the route. Rebolted 2012.

Brackets to lower offs

Start: This and the next few routes start from the track on the left side of the gully coming down.

Start up Atomic Punk to just before it's first bolt - then traverse right to hanging arete (hangers). Finish up ironstone feature on the left side of the arete (#2 & #3 cams). Partially retrobolts the middle of the 1970s scarefest "Oblivion".

Nice direct finish to Exhibition Wall - clean and a little more exciting but not bold. Up EW for about 5 FHs then straight up wall just right of arete via a single ring, and a couple of solid medium cams in horizontals. Carrot belay over the top - walk off to exit.

"Stupid in fact! Like most of the routes on this wall they could do with a great deal of 'common sense' and a rebolt!" Sport climbers guidebook. "Champagne climbing.." Bold climbers comment.

Up EW for about 7 FHs then straight up the wall via some gear? and a bolt.

Either a visionary piece of bolting, or the start of a slippery slope depending on perspective. Birth of sport climbing in the Blueies. Originally homemade fixed hangers, has since been rebolted on huge, shiny mass-manufactured fixed hangers!

Aided by Glenn Robbins, had numerous free attempts over a 5 year period.

Start: 17m right.Marked.

As for SHSB to traverse line of B. Ignore traverse, up wall past bolt to top.

Start: As for SHSB.

The righthand of three routes on this wall. Up wall and bulgy overhang to anchors.

Start 3m right of Unknown on left of the cave. Up juggy wall to roof, then swing right and diagonally upwards to overlap then straight up wall to loweroffs.

Take care with the rock.

Start: As for PF but right.

Doesn't add much. Start on the right side of the high ledge. Step right off the ledge and climb 1-2m R of PO to the bulge, but then basically rejoin PO to surpass the bulge. Then step R and join PSD to the top.

All Aussie iconic carrots in their full glory. A tad run out to keep you modest and humble in this mean world.

Delicate balancey moves up the arete and then the final jug fest up head wall to loweroffs.

"His ex-wife died of stretch marks"

Start: On the wall 2m right of TH.

The original route and the 'best' on the wall.

Start: 4.5m right of SM.

To ledge, over bulge and to top trending leftwards.

Start: 6m right again.

Step off boulder onto wall then up face right of Rock N Roll Suicide. Grade 22 in the Carter print guide. All FHs.

Marked.

Start: Below roof 6m right of TB.

Moderate move to slopey pocket then big move to slopey lip.

Sit start and then right around prow finishing at obvious hold on right-hand wall

Sit start in cave on slopey rail and climb it up to 2nd rail to finish at arete. Top out up face still a project

First route coming down from corner.

The arete.

Up face past 3 hangers clip LC anchor

The obvious undercut crack. Head for a fixed hanger on a sharp nose then left and finish up 'Nudity'.

Start: 3m left of Subduction Zone

Great technical seam, take lots of small wires or RPs plus small cams. Take care - it's all there. Fantastic!

Marked SAV. This is a great climb! Some very hard moves and a few of them!

Start 2m R of SAV. Has a L-facing flake/corner at the start, and FHs. An easy romp to a tricky thin crux and low anchors.

Between GL and the arete. A high first bolt you should stickclip. Then up through rooflet and the typical hard move to beautiful Bardens breaks trending R. Runout but safe.

Start just R of HLSB, next to the steep gully. Careful to second bolt. Rebolted 2004, anchors 2016.