Vie in North Buttress del grado selezionato

A circular exercise out of 'Hermes' roof to join 'Thor'. Move left from under the roof, around the lip and up a groove then back right to the belay.

Contrived in places and somewhat overtaken by 'Nothing Left', nevertheless a great climb wandering around the water streaks to the left of the 'Prow'. Start 6 metres left of Rubbishman below an easy, scoopy slab.

1. 30m (20) - Up the slab for eight metres to a thin rightwards diagonal, step left and then straight up to the 'Rubbishman' diagonal. Step back right, then up the steep slab past a bolt (clip with wire) to the large ledge. DBB on the right as for 'Place Without a Postcard'.

2. 30m (23) - Back left and up seven metres to a short diagonal for runners (as for 'Rubbishman'). Step left and up the slab to a bolt, then desperately up and right through a bulge to a ledge. Climb over a second bulge, then move right to DBB on the 'Prow'.

3. 30m (22) - Scary. Move back left along the ledge, then up to a bolt at five metres. Straight up the water streak to a jug (level with the tree on the right), then more easily to DBB on a large flat ledge.

4. 20m (18) - Move left along the ledge, then up the slab to the overlap. Pull through this into a short groove, then easily up the mossy rock to a spacious ledge and DBB. Finish as you will.

A bolted direct version of 'Anything So Nothing', following the water streak all the way. A few wingers already! Take wires and small camming devices (up to 2.5).

1. 47m (23) - Start as for 'Anything So Nothing'. Up the slab for a few metres to a diagonal crack, over this and follow the 'Rubbishman' diagonal for a few moves. Climb straight up the streak on the wall up to a bolt, right and up past a second, then diagonally up left to a #1 Friend in break (long sling), back right and continue up streak past three bolts to the bulge, straight over this (bolt) to a stance and double bolt belay.

2. 50m (22) Straight up the water streak past five bolts to a flat ledge and rap anchor at 30 metres. Belay here if you want to finish up 'Take It All'. Otherwise trend slightly left up slab (as for the fourth pitch of 'Anything So Nothing' to overlap (#2 friend). Over the overlap at a broken flake and up dirty rock to a large ledge and double bolt belay - a rope stretching 50 metres, if in doubt belay at the ledge.

3. 38m (21) - Off block left of belay and up short cracks into left diagonal. Up wall past bolt and fixed wire to jug and #1 Friend in diagonal overlap. Over this (#2 Friend) and up easing wall and slab to bolt where slab steepens. Left past this to top of pillar and over blocks and ledges to triple bolt belay at back of large ledge.

Pity it isn't longer. Stolen from Mike Peck. Belay at the comfy ledge and double bolts at the end of 'Extreme Youth' P3a. The climbing starts five metres right of the last pitch of 'Extreme Youth'. Up the crack for two metres, then left and up past about five bolts. Step right around the arete and desperately up the slab past two more bolts.

Another extreme and superb climb. Start at the incipient crack on the steep wall approximately 10 metres left of 'Rubbishman'. Up the crack to a tiny ledge, then slightly right through a slippery bowl (look closely for RP slots). Continue up the wall as for 'Rubbishman', mantle, reachy bolt, then move left around the arete. Trend leftwards up the RP protected slab to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Three sets of RPs isn’t overkill.

A very good route, although some of the climb (the second and part of the third pitches) is borrowed from existing routes and there was some dispute as to the style of the first ascent. The orange corner above the slabs (the fourth pitch) is in a superb position. Start seven metres left of 'Closer In' and just left of 'Megajules'.

1. 20m (23) - Boulder up to a bolt, trend right to some jugs, and follow them left to a second bolt. Move directly over a small bulge to a ledge.

2. 35 metres (16) Straight up easier slabs and overlaps to belay at a large scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Crimble Cromble').

3. 50m (20) Superb slab climbing. Venture onto the huge upper slab as for third pitch of 'Crimble Cromble', but where that climb exits right, continue up pitch two of 'Closer In'. Belay on the right beneath the overhanging orange corner (originally done without the bolts on 'Closer In'!)

4. 15m (22) - up the orange corner with a difficult exit on the left.

5. 35m (19) - Up the corner, then right to easy ground (shared with 'Closer In').

A worthless contrived mantle first done with a backrope. Start right of 'Fat Like Me'. Up the slab to a horizontal break, then directly up the wall above with a short slab to finish.

Another superb, long and hard slab route. The original first pitch climbed a flake and overlap just left of 'Outer Limit' (now claimed by Bananas in Pyjamas P2), but the route as described is much better. Start above the second bolt of 'Bananas in Pyjamas' (scramble up the bushy gully). This is 10m right and up from 'Vent Crack'.

1. 40m (23) - Up to a ledge, then up the crazed crack/groove to a peg. Continue up through the overlap and the groove above to a second overlap. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a mossy groove, and follow this up (past a bolt on 'Bananas in Pyjamas') to a ledge. Extensive exfoliation in the 2020 fires has made the first 15m (which was already serious) harder, less good, and extremely dangerous.

2. 25m (22) - Frees the old aid section of 'Linear Crack'. Strenuously up the twin flared finger cracks to a tree, then easily to the top of a huge block.

3. 35m (23) - Move leftwards around the arete and continue traversing left beneath the bulge to a peg in the corner. Climb up and over the bulge to a bolt, then straight up the hard slab above.

One of the best routes at Booroomba, with sustained and scary climbing in a great position. Start as for 'Powder Finger Finish'.

1. 40m (23) For the original route: move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the huge flake (shared with 'Only the Good Die Young'). At the horizontal break undercling out right for four metres. (A direct start was bolted at a later date, but then extensively damaged by the 2020 fire: blast straight up past two bolts to join the original route at the right-hand end of the horizontal break.) Climb the sustained intermittent crack line past two bolts until it blanks out (a #4 Rock protects the crux here). Move right to a line of holds and follow these to the large ledge (DBB).

2. 15m (23) - This pitch tackles the orange wall directly above. Climb a leftward sloping crack into the sentry box in the middle of the face. Up past two bolts, then crank left to a curving flake. Go up this, then out left to a hanging belay in the corner.

3. 35m (22) - Climb up and out right to some wires. Move back, left of the white water streak, to an insecure move to reach a bolt. Hard moves follow for about five metres before the slab gradually eases back. DBB.

A good, varied climb with a thin crux. Start as for 'Silver City Highway'.

1. 45 metres - Traverse right slightly then straight up past a bolt (crux) to a ledge. Walk left then up the wall past two more bolts to a corner and easy slab. Finish up the wide corner crack and belay below 'Baryon'.

2. 45m (13) - Climb left along the 10cm dyke (RPs / small wires) until you hit the wide 'Lepton' dyke then up easily to top.

danger

Just another unprotected slab route to fill in the space. Start off some big flakes about 7m left of 'Rock Lobster' and 8m right of 'Tip Stripper'. It was inspected on top-rope before the first (solo) ascent.

Climb the slab above the large flake to the obvious scoops in the steep wall. Up the wall to easier ground then up, right of the lichen, to join Solantic near the belay.