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South Head Bouldering

Stagionalità

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Sommario

Seaside bouldering

Descrizione

Good moderate scenic bouldering on solid rock with good friction. Boulders described here as you come to them from the walk in. The last boulder, The Cake, takes the cake. It is a highly recommended classic. All boulders are in the shade after lunch.

Limitazioni per l'accesso

Stays mostly dry at high tide. Reaching The Cake is hard at high tide. A strong easterly swell can spray mist on the boulders.

Avvicinamento

Take the Ferry from Circular Quay to Watson’s Bay and walk to the north end of Camp Cove Beach (or drive to the free parking at 31 Cliff St). Take the South Head Heritage Trail to the Hornby Keepers Cottage. North of the cottage, at the circular canon hole, take the trail down to the ocean-level rock platform. Turn right until around the corner and roughly under the lighthouse. Keep walking further south to reach The Cake.

Vie

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Grado Via

The first boulder you get to from the walk in. Fun but poor landing.

Up right side of block

Up the large flakes system.

From the small pocket jug to the V shaped jug ridge. Dyno?

Up the flakes line. Dyno.

Start as Whats Up tend right to jug pocket and top.

Straight up past horizontal break.

Left arete.

Sit start

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Dic 2022

Sit start.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 8 Dic 2022

On white block with pebbled flakes. Stand start from the left, traverse right then up. Topout chossy. Descend choss on back.

Start lh on hueco and rh on pinch. Up rib arete feature on progressively worse pinches before a big move to top out.

FA: Meedu Samaraweera, 25 Ago 2023

The original line sit starts on left jug sidepull and right ergonomic sloper (about half way up boulder). Up to lip and mantle.

A lower start was completed at the end of 2022 which adds 3 harder moves (shown by dotted line in topo). Start left hand in undercling hueco and right hand on far right sloping side pull. Make difficult moves to reach the right-hand good sloper before continuing as the original line. Probably V5/6.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Set 2018

FA: Jamie, 31 Dic 2022

nice climb but seems impossible to topout. Anyone?

Next two problems are around the corner on a small block. Not good problems on high tide or swell days as the water may reach the base of the boulder.

Start low with hands in sloper break and move up to the right then top out.

Start low with hands in the sloper break and go up left and top out.

Continue walking 100m south past a small bay and along a narrow ledge until you get to a prominent hanging oange and grey arete on a platform.

Avvertimento Roccia: Key hold broke off

Sit start and up the steep leaning prow edge. Stop before broken out hole. Top out possible but not recommended (loose rock).

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 23 Set 2018

Straight up. As for The Cake, top out not recommended.

Slab left of The Cake, up using the edge.

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Autore/i: Mike Forward and Peter Balint

Data: 2023

With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.

Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.

Autore/i: Neil Monteith & Simon Carter

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9780645299908

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Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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