Vie come trad in Western Gara Gorge

Start: Solo up to a terrace from which two obvious cracks start. ‘Windtunnel’ is the crack in the corner on the left.

1. 25m (crux) Up corner onto ledge, up offwidth to slabs and then to belay at base of blocky chimney.

2. 5m Up chimney to top.

Start: The first crack.

Up chimney with off-balance finger crack to finish.

Start: in the manky corner halfway between ‘Orchid Stretch’ and ‘Stuffed Elbow’.

Left along ramp, up crack behind a detached block, join the finger crack of ‘Orchid Stretch’ to finish.

Start the obvious offwidth.

Up easy offwidth.

Start: a wall split with large cracks.

Up the cracks on the front of the broken block. At about l7m traverse right, then up crack to top.

A trendy line.

Start: the crack left of ‘Zig Zag.

1. 15m (crux) Up the impressive crack to a large ledge.

2. 24m Up the crack to a ledge, traverse right then up a tight chimney.

Start: At groove that seems to disappear into the mank.

Straight up the crack, take the right groove at 21m, up bottle neck to a large ledge.

Start: on the right-hand side of the scrubby corner left of ‘Wild Fire’.

1. 25m Up trending right, a left-hand offwidth/fist crack, then right onto face, up to tree on large ledge, then up to tree belay.

2. 35m Left onto block, then right, up a sloping ledge with numerous small trees. Up crack through slab, trending right to tree belay.

3. 10m Up gully system trending right to tree belay.

Start: in a corner below the huge roof.

1. 15m From the corner move left across the sloping ledge and up to tree belay.

2. 39m (crux) Left, up offwidth to top of block. Up crack into recess, then upopen corner to ledge. Up the shallow groove to tree belay.

3. 20m Scramble to a large ledge. Left up the corner crack, up on slab, then move right under overhanging wall, around the corner and up to tree belay.

Start: 1m from ‘Dirty Trick’ at large corner. (The first ascensionists failed to mention whether this 2m left or 2m right).

1. 30m Head into gully, folios crack, then head up left into loose rock area, up onto large rock from where rock belay secures position.

2. 23m (crux) Head up near tree, ascend main wall above tree onto sloping ledge (to the right). Use small protection on ledge until ledge becomes more vertical where main protection is needed. Jamming and use of friends up the corner is good. Scramble to rocks then on top of this for belay (near the long tunnel chimney crack). It’s possible to go on a further 6-7m for tree belay but not much protection here.

3. 12m Up onto smooth face towards obvious overhang. Traverse left to a prominent boulder under overhang, then climb out and belay from a tree.

Start: A leaning corner crack.

1. 30m (crux) Up the shallow crack, over block, then up the off width to a ledge.

2. 26m Straight up the crack to a small roof. Out and around this to belay ledge.

Start: A fine crack to the right of ‘Schizophrenic’.

1. 22m Up thin crack, blocks and ledges to base of a short crack. Up this to ledge.

2. 26m As for second pitch of ‘Serenity’.

Start: A crack between ‘Stampede’ and ‘The Junk Man’.

1. 27m (crux) Up corner to a vertical crack at the base of a large block. Up crack onto block.

2. 24m Two or three nuts for aid over bulge, then free up the flake crack and aid up to roof, then move right on aid (pegs in place). Up the gap in roof to tree belay.

Start: A thin flake below a bulge.

Up the flake then aid over the bulge and up the crack. Where the crack runs out (bolt in place) move left on tension, then up to to tree.

Start: At the far left end of the buttress, a corner crack aith a flake start.

1. 18m (crux) Onto block,then move into the corner, up into crack then chimney and gully to tree.

2. 21m Up chimney, move around a small roof, then up the groove to tree.

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated on the second ascent by N. Colyvan & B. Birchall on 7/8/81.

Start: The thin crack 1Dm right of ‘Adamant’.

Straight up the crack.

The thin crack 10m of Adamant. Straight up the crack, crux moves at half height.

Up the fierce looking crack on the main face with a ledge at half height.

The crack on the main face. Up the fierce looking crack with a ledge at half height.

Forever jerking off mank.

Start: A leftward trending diagonal crack, 10m left of ‘Adamant’.

Up diagonal, traverse left past tree to large ledge. Pull up through vines over crack onto large flake. Up slabs to tree, directly up right of offwidth to blocks.

Forever jerking off mank. A leftward trending diagonal crack, 10m left of 'Adamant'. Up diagonal, traverse left past tree to large ledge. Pull up through vines over crack to large flake. Up slabs to tree, directly up right of off-width to blocks.

Start: An off-width left-hand corner crack.

1. 15m Up off-width to tree.

2. 40m Up remotely thin cracks, right then left and out.

Start: Overhung crack line opposite ‘Country Bumpkin’.

Up crack trending to offwidth.

Start: Some 30m left of ‘Deceit’ on terrace.

1. 7m Up crack to belay on trees.

2. 43m Straight up undulating rock to top (probably little or no protection).

Start: At the very top of the cliff above the finish of ‘Use Your Face As An Ashtray’

Up wall to right of crack to huge flake, around flake to top.

Start: on the terrace where the second pitch of ‘Nicomodes’ starts. At a small alcove l0m left of ‘Use Your Face As An Ashtray’.

Up right to large shrubby ledge, left on easy ground and up to some runners. Up trending right, keeping right of slight headwall to trees.

Start: to the right of the small gully just right of ‘Xerxes’.

1. 15m Up cracked wall, exit out hand crack to big ledge.

2. 38m Up, leftwards at first then right to belay on easier rock.

3. 12m Up the moss carpet to top blocks.

Start: The outstanding thin edged right hand hanging flake, with a perpetual wet streak at it the start.

Up wall to thin part of flake, up flake to trees.

Start: On the ledge above 'Xerxes'. Either do 'Xerxes' or a double abseil from the top.

1. 40m (crux) From the left-hand end of the ‘Xerxes’ ledge, straight up the waves of granite via 6 bolt runners to a belay in a scoop with 2 bolts.

2. 45m Step left from the belay, then straight up the steep headwall past a bolt runner, then up the slabs past another bolt to the top, Tree belay.

Start: 12-15m right of ‘Xerxes’, a flake 1m high.

1. 20m (crux) Up the slab past 2 bolt runners to a ledge/scoop. Up the wall above past 2 more bolts then move right 2m to a bolt then straight up to ledge. Double bolt belay.

2. 30m Up and slightly right to a small bush via a bolt runner. Right across easy ledges/ramp then up short steep wall past 2 bolt runners to belay. Double bolt belay.

3. 45m As for the second pitch of ‘Endless Vacation’.

Start: A few metres left of ’Nightmare on Elm Street’.

Up slab past 10 bolts to chains. Rap off or finish up ‘Flesh Dance’.

Start: About 4m left of ‘The Perfect Crime’.

Up slab going slightly leftwards down low and then back right up higher to steeper ground. Up steep wall then straight up above over easier ground to chain belay of ‘The Perfect Crime’. 5 bolts on route.

Abseil off or continue up ‘The Perfect Crime’.

2m right of ‘Flesh Dance’.

Up to very thin flake (BR), then head right and up to the top of the flake to a second bolt. Continue up the corner (some natural protection is needed for this section) then clip bolt, step left and up steep head wall. Another bolt then easier ground to the chains of ‘The Perfect Crime’. Gear required: 6 bolt plates and quickdraws, #6 rock, & #2 friends.

Take 7 quick-draws and bolt plates and no other gear for this.

Start: 12m left of ‘Nightmare on Elm Street’. A slabby lay away that leads to a steep wall.

1. 45m (crux) Layaway up slab arête, then up steep wall on big jugs to less steep wall and smaller jugs, then easy slab and right to chains. 6 bolt runners in pitch.

2. 45m From chains move left 2m then straight up the waves of slabs to double bolt belay. 5 bolts in pitch.

3. 8m Easily up ledges past one bolt runner to top and tree belay.

Start: 6m right of ‘Darius’, a diagonal crack.

1. 10m Up diagonal crack, then straight up to ledge to belay (wires and friends).

2. 20m Out left, up to bolt runner, up then left, then up and back right, then straight up to belay (large tree). Four bolt runners for this pitch.

3. 30m (crux) Through headwall past 2 bolts, up slab past 2 nre bolts and shaky flake to belay left of bush. Bolt belay.

4. 20m Up narrow brushed streak past two bolts to top.

Start: Towards the middle of the slabs, a rightward trending crack, heavily vegetated.

1. 15m Up crack, trending right to tree belay.

2. 25m Follow line right to belay on top of a large loose flake.

3. 30m Direct to top.

Start: The brown water streak 2m right of the corner 'Don't Knock the Rock'. Abseil in from a tree marked by a cairn, to the obvious ledge.

1. 25m Up past 2 bolts, up the flake trending right, then left to belay.

2. 20m Up the streak past bolt, then continue padding to top.

Not the name of a song, a word of advice!

Start: At the base of a crack-chimney about 6m to the left of ‘Darius’.

1. 30m Up crack trending left to obvious pillar. Up crack in pillar to belay ledge.

2. 30m Delicately up slabs, trending slightly left to below roof. Move left to belay. Little or no protection in this pitch.

Start: about 3m right of ‘The Last Laugh’ on block.

Step off the block and up right, then back left to first bolt. Up through overlap and second bolt, then trend right past 2 more bolts then up and back left to ledge. Scramble left along ledge to chains atop of ‘The Last Laugh’.

“The last laugh should last forever”.

Start: The steep slab about 5m down right from ‘Moral Decline’. Marked and with a bolt anchor at the start.

Up the slab past 4 bolt runners to chains on the ledge.

Start: 2m right of ‘Moral Decline’.

Up past 3 bolts to hanging block, move left to belay.

Start: 2m right of ‘Post Crypt’ at the left-hand end of ‘The Carpets’. Marked.

Step off the blocks, up the slab past 3 bolts to the alcove at the top. Walk off left.

Start: 1m right of ‘Post Crypt’ corner. The first water streak.

Straight up the water streak past 4 bolts, using a few edges on either side till the last bolt, then padding to the top. (#2 & #3 friends for belay in alcove). Walk off left.

Not a bad route if you ignore the second pitch and walk off leftwards after the corner.

Start: at the prominent corner at the left-hand end of the slabs.

1. 22m (crux) Up fine left-hand corner/crack past tree at half height. Up the short slab to roof.

2. 12m Up cracked roofs and right to obvious triangular overhang (the ‘crypt’). Struggle through this and up lichenous slab to top and tree belay.

Start: A clean black strip up the low angle slabs up and left of ‘Stop In The Name Of Love’ on the Persian Carpets. About 15m right of ‘Ataxerxes’.

Up the black strip of slab with no protection.

Start: At the far left of the slabs (broken slabby area). An obvious leaning crack.

1. 25m Up corner crack to tree belay.

2. 25m Straight up slab to top (unprotected).

Buy one of these and you get absolutely free, air-conditioning, cassette/radio, 12 months supply of petrol, a block of flats on the Gold Coast... .plus Tasmania!

Start: The most left-hand route on the cliff, 5m left of ‘Look Ma No Hands’.

Up the ledges (wire placements) to a bolt runner. Up the slab to the South coast of Tasmania (friends and small wires). Over the overlap via Launceston, then straight up past Burnie to a short steep wall, then to top.

A good route spoilt only by a chipped hold.Take 4 bolt plates, a 1½ friend and a 4 friend.

Start: About 4m left of 'Skid Row'.

Mantle up ledges, then delicately up the ramp, then straight up the water streak, finishing up the last moves of 'Country Bumpkin'.

Another good slab spoilt by a chippie. Take 4 bolt plates and #2,#3,#4 friends

Start: Left of ‘Country Bumpkin (about 15m), the water streak slab.

1. 30m (crux) Straight up the water streak, easy at first then hard after last bolt. #2&#3 friends for belay.

2. 10m Move left 5m then up last moves of ‘ Country Bumpkin’

“I’m a country member.” - “Yeah I remember”.

The direct line to the layback of ‘Country Bumpkin’.

Start: A few metres right of ‘Skid Row’.

1. 30m Straight up to layback flake via 3 bolt runners. Up layback to tree belay on ledge (take care the tree is dead!).

2. 10m (crux) Straight up slab past two bolt runners, and wall to top.

Start: At almost the very base of the descent gully.

1. 10m Up slab to lefthand corner.

2. 20m Up lefthand corner, left easily then up right to base of flake.

3. 15m Up flake then vegetated crack to below final block.

4. 15m Left until you can get onto the scrubby top.

Shit Hot! Take 3 bolt plates and some small friends and wires.

Start:5m right of ‘Country Member’s’ last pitch. Abseil in to tree.

Up water streak slab, step up onto the arête, then up the arête / slab past 3 bolt runners and a wire placement to the top.

Don’t bother.

Start: About 3m right of ‘Country Bumpkin’.

1. 25m Up layback crack then wander across terrace and up to tree below corner.

2. 20m Up corner/offwidth and leftwards to tree.

3. 20m Up slab and corner as for ‘Lay Back and Enjoy It’

Start: Below and about 5m right of ‘Country Bumpkin’. A deep, wide crack on a low angled face.

1. 20m Up the crack then scramble up to right angled corner.

2. 20m (crux) Up the corner crack then scramble to tree belay.

3. 20m Up the short steep wall then low angled corner crack.

Start: Abseil in to the ledge beside ‘Lay Back and Enjoy It’. Approx 4m right of ‘Salad Days’.

Up the wall between ‘Layback and Enjoy It’ and ‘Reefer Madness’ past 3 bolts then step left onto ledge. Straight up from the ledge past another 4 bolt runners to the top tree belay.

Start: About 5m right of ’Psycho Therapy’.

Up the slab/wall past 6 bolt runners, going slightly rightwards in the middle section and back left a little near the top.

Start: The first line from the lefthand end of the cliff. 4m left of ‘Payolla’.

Up crack and around roof to top.

Start: On the wall left of, and uphill from ‘Manicure’.

Up thin incipient cracks through bulge to good crack to top

Originally done with an aid rest at 23M0 but this was eliminated a week or two later by Lattanzio.

Start: 4m right of 'Payolla'

Up thin crack, traverse left to join base of a second crack. Climb this to the top

Start: 1m right of ‘Gutterchild’.

Up crack then step left around block near top, continue to top.

Start: just right of ‘Rope Learning’, the slightly diagonal crack.

Follow the crack.

Start: The rather unprotected groove 4m right of ‘Path of Destruction’.

Up wall and into groove to top.

Start: The unmistakable clean cut finger crack right of ‘Diminishing Returns’.

Up the crack.

Start: 2m right of ‘Manicure’.

Up crack to top.

(eats chunder out of a dead tadpole’s bum)

Up the hair-line crack to the good ledge and bolt. Thence up, up and away.

(Or Woz I)

‘You know it’s a good party when you fall off the roof”.

Start: 5m right of ‘Kevin the Cane Toad’ is a cave formed by a large block. Between the block and the wall of ‘Kevin the Cane Toad’ buttress is a short 3m, horizontal crack/roof, Step up to right end of crack. Go left.

(gives Tonto a split personality)

Start: On the large separate boulder in the gully 5m left of Rumple foreskin’.

Straight up the slab with protection at half height.

Start: 3m left of the balancing table rock.

Muscle onto sharp flake, up incipient cracks to overlap and right-hand corner. Up corner and oat right past 2 bolts and up slab to top.

Start: Marked on the little cliff below the balancing table rock.

Up intermittent cracks to the top.

Start: As for ‘Sticky Deposit’.

Up the left-hand leaning crack, along the flake, past bolt runner, into the scoop, then follow the seams in the final headwall to the top.

Start: In the small alcove 15m left of ‘Higher Purchase’.

Follow the rightward leaning crack to offwidth and up to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Sticky Deposit’.

Up fiercely overhung water streak, then up groove, trend right up slab to ‘Higher Purchase’, up this to top.

Start: About 15m down right from the balancing table rock. A short left-hand corner.

1. 15m Up corner to tree then traverse left to a tree belay.

2. 20m (crux) Up slight corner and slab to overlap, follow crack to top.

Less rope drag if done in two pitches.

Start: As for ‘Higher Purchase’.

Up corner as for ‘Higher traverse left then up slab to overlap, left, then up corner then right to join crack to top.

Start: As for ‘Higher Purchase’.

Up the crack and slab, trending right to a shallow corner. Follow this and sickle overlap to crack. On to top.

Start: The leftward leaning crack 3m right of ‘Higher Purchase’.

Up crack to small ledge then follow corner to top.

Start: On the lower tier of ‘The Pagoda’, facing ‘The Persian Carpets’. Start in an alcove at the lowest point of the tier.

Into alcove then out right to join crack, follow this up to offwidth (or up wall left of this) to ledge. Up wall into groove and up wall on right to top.

Start: The obvious corner on the buttress (and visible from the left-hand end of ‘The Pagoda’).

Jam and bridge up to top.

Start: The obvious offwidth splitting the east face of the boulder. Up jam crack to ledge, step left into offwidth and struggle upwards. (The only protection is stacked tubes and hexes!).

Start: A short corner crack on the southern side.

Up corner crack, a step, then another corner crack followed by a layback.

Start: A sickle shaped crack below and right of ‘No Scruples’.

Follow crack, offwidth moves followed by jamming.

Start: On a small outcrop/bunch of boulders, above and downstream of Dome Wall. Start just left of the large roof.

Up groove to roof then up left onto lodge then up crack to top.

‘‘I’m no thickie”

Start: Below the obvious orange roof on the right side of the descent gully, as you walk down.

Up to cave, bridge to surmount roof, then strenuous jamming to top.

A classic.

Start: Opposite ‘Billericay Dickie’ on the left side of the gully (as you walk down) are some slabs facing out into the gorge. Start at the base of the obvious crack on the left side of the slab. Originally 20 M1 with a couple of points of aid, this was progressively whittled away by Stephens, then Bayne then eventually freed’ by M. Colyvan and E. Sharp I8/6/H

Up crack to where it thins down and goes diagonally rightwards, follow crack into gully and rap off chains atop of 'That’s Entertainment'. Al Stephens

Interesting and well protected climbing up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall. start: About 3m right of ‘Bang Bang’.

Up onto large blocks to clip the first bolt, then step right onto the slab, up and past another bolt to the crack of ‘Bang Bang’. Cross this and head straight up the wall past 2 more bolts to the top. Belay/rap chains in place.

Originally had two points of aid, the first being the second bolt. The aid was almost eliminated by Paul Bayne and was eventually freed by Giles Bradbury May 1983. It is now one of New England’s it most popular hard free routes.

Start: Sm right of ‘Bang Bang’ at rightward trending groove.

Follow groove right, then back left past bolt runner into corner, up to second bolt and on to ledge and belay/rap chain. Note that both bolts are usually clipped with wires first these days.

UNKNOWN? Not in orignal guide

This poor excuse for a climb should be cemented up... actually it’s probably a good route for visiting Queenslanders to do.

Start: About 10m right of ‘That’s Entertainment’ below big ugly 3 chimney.

1. 20m Up the cleft on the right wall as for ‘The Gremlin’, a tussle with chock stones lands one before the gates.

2. 20m Jump into bottomless cavern and squeeze upwards (usually) in total darkness to a sandy grotto.

3. 5m Several overhanging mud pull-ups to top.

A classic although is best to rap in from the top to avoid the horrid chimney leading up to it. Rap into semi-hanging belay from chain on top.

Start: as for ‘The Gates of Moria’

1. 22m Scramble up into chimney then to undercling leading past bolt, then up into layback then step right at arête to belay at chains at horizontal crack.

2. 15m (crux) Up face and arête to top past 3 bolts to chains.

Start: Rap into the ledge halfway up ‘The Gates of Moria’ from the chains on top of ‘The Gremlin’ buttress. The climb starts from this ledge and goes up the right wall of the gully.

Clip the bolt then an awkward move to start to pull across onto the wall. Move right and up to a second bolt then up to the small roof and around this past a third bolt, then follow the rightward trending seam up past another bolt to the arête. Easily to top. Chain belay plus a bolt down lower where the climb meets the arête.

3m left of Working Class Heroes up vertical crack and through shrubbery. Then continue up tiny tips crack. 1982 is complete guess for FA

A Classic looking crack.

Start: The obvious diagonal crack line on the left hand side of the terrace.

1. 30m (crux) Strenuously climb the diagonal crack, (After about 20m the crack rounds a corner and becomes vertical). Up for a few metres and belay in sentry box.

2. 12m Up open groove, small roof and easier crack to top.

Start: from the sentry box atop of pitch one of ‘Working Class Heroes’.

From the sentry box belay step left onto the wall and crack. A hard crank right, then back left overcomes the blank section.

A real grunt!

Start: The chimney to the right of ’Working Class Heroes’.

Scramble up gully to above tree and good ledge. Follow crack up left wall of chimney

Start: As for ‘Prehistoric Sounds’ to ledge above tree. Follow the off-width crack on the right up through a bulge and then more easily on to top.

A rather attractive wall. Double ropes useful.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’.

Up slab to ledge then straight up wail above past bolt, then head diagonally right over easier ground, then up to a second bolt up and slightly left past two more bolts then run it out a little straight up the slab above. Easily up exit crack.

Start: On the right hand end of the terrace

1. 15m Up the hand crack to a ledge then continue up to a slight corner. Belay

2. 15m (crux) Up the corner and delicately onto slab when crack runs out, then easily to top.

Start: As for ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’.

1. 22m Up the hand crack and mantle onto the ledge. (Possible to split pitch and belay here to avoid rope drag and improve communication with second). From right hand end of ledge, climb the corner crack until it is possible to move rightwards around the rib to a terrace belay.

2. 15m Up rightward trending crack on right hand end of ledge. When crack runs out continue past bush and up grassy gully to belay below chimney.

3. 10m (crux) Up easy angled, rightward trending crack, then thin crack to top

Start: As for 'Rise of the Bourgeoisie'

1. 15m As for pitch one of 'Rise of the Bourgeoisie', belay on the ledge on right, below dome.

2. 15m (crux) Up thin crack splitting the wall below the dome then traverse out left and belay in groove.

3. 10m Easily up slab and crack to top.

A superb line up the left arête of the dome, giving sustained hard climbing.

Start: At the base of the dome on the left side. Either Abseil in or do 'Labour Force'.

Up the left aide of the arête past a bolt runner then swing around right and up past three more bolts to top with another bolt at top. Tie off trees on mainland for anchor.

The arête between 'Corridors of Power' and ‘Bunker Hill’.

Start: On the right hand end of the ledge atop pitch 1 of ‘Labour Force’.

Step right off big block onto wall past bolt runner; up and across right to arête which is followed past 2 more bolts to top.

Start; The left hand crack on the little orange buttress down hill from ‘Billericay Dickie’.

Up crack, through roof to top